A walk around rustic Regensburg, Bavaria
Most visitors to Germany's popular South Eastern-most State Bavaria will focus on the capital Munich as well as the Royal Castles in the Bavarian Alps. Few tend to venture further afield and even fewer head north of Munich to the area perched between Bavaria and its lesser-known northern neighbor, Frankonia. Here in the OBERPFALZ (Upper Palatinate) we find Regensburg, a university town of 130 000 on the Danube and among the oldest settlements in the region. Ratisboa, as this charming town was known during Roman times, occupies a priviledged scenic position on the Danube as the young river emerges from Swabia to flow through Bavaria southwards to become fully navegable near the tri-river town of Passau. Numerous Roman relics attest to Regensburg ancient history, including the Roman gate PORTA PRAETORIA, making this town considerably older than the capital Munich, the latter only dating back to the 12th century. Unscathed by the ravages of WWII, it is surprising how charming, well-kept and affluent this UNESCO world heritage site appears at first glance and even more surprising that it has not yet been sold wholesale to mass tourism. Admittedly, the city does see its regular influx of visitors, but they tend to be river cruise guests sampling the town during a short stopover here. Yet Regensburg warrants a much closer and more intimate look and invites us to sample its many charms, cobblestoned alleys and unique boutiques and art galleries.
A good point of reference and departure is lively Arnulfplatz, one of the busiest intersections and traffic throughways in town, but also perfect gateway to the Old Town's picturesque pedestrian zone. We stroll down pedestrianized Ludwigstrasse, more beautiful than ever following a recent face lift by local authorities, and head into the center of the Old Town towards HAIDPLATZ, one of the most scenically appealing squares in town. Here we find among other historic buildings, the medieval inn and hotel GOLDENES KREUZ (Golden Cross) dating back to the 13th century and site of many a king and emperor overnighting in town en route further South. Adjacent to the Golden Cross, the prestigious THON-DITTMER PALAIS is a true eye-catcher dominating the square, as it ranks among the nicest and best preserved neo-classical noble palaces in town. Rather than following the main flow of pedestrians towards Rathausplatz, we proceed further ahead to the right and enter a labyrinth of cobblestone alleyways, inner courtyards and shopping arcades leading us past attractive boutiques and local craftshops unique to Regensburg and this part of Bavaria. It is a pleasing testament to the local economy's vibrant and booming middle class, and to local authorities' attempts to support start-ups, prevent franchising of multinational corporations and thus foster the region's local identity.
As we proceed through the narrow and quaint cobblestone lanes of Old Town Regensburg, our view suddenly opens up to the medieval jewel of the city, the gothic masterpiece of St. Peter's Cathedral. Enormous in dimension for a city the size of Regensburg, it impresses with a height of 86 meters, beautiful gothic architecture, ancient stained glass windows, the most famous of which is the St. Peter Window, and impressive high vaulting. As we witness first-hand during a brief visit of St. Peter's 13th century interior, the city's main cathedral is kept in immaculate shape and boasts rich acoustics, which benefits the famous Regensburg Cathedral Sparrows Boys Choir, which regularly rehearses and performs here.
Yet the Gothic Cathedral is not the only architectural masterpiece Regensburg has to offer. As we continue to the right of the Dom's main entrance, we reach about a block further down the 'Monastery of Our Lady', more widely known as the OLD CHAPEL (Alte Kapelle). Dating originally back to the year 875, it underwent major restoration in the 18th century (starting in 1747) and nowadays ranks among one of the finest examples of ROCOCO architecture in Europe, a true delight for the senses. Far less frequented and just as ornate and playful as the famous Wieskirche near Füssen or the Wilten Basilika in Innsbruck, it allows for an intimate and overwhelming personal confrontation with Rococo beauty and its use as a religious art. We then exit through the side chapel and retrace our steps towards the central Old Town, leading to the wide and open NEUPFARRPLATZ, another attractive ensemble of well-preserved Patrician merchant houses with a spectacular view of St Peter's Cathedral in the background.
We then decide to head towards the Danube and Regensburg's famous STONY BRIDGE dating back to the 12th century and in 1189 the site where Emperor Frederic Barbarossa embarked on the 3rd Crusade. Here we find what may be Bavaria's most famous sausage stand - the HISTORISCHE WURSTLKUCHL - right in an area of the Danube embankment previously subject to frequent floods. Nowadays more regulated by levys and flood gates, it attracts locals and visitors alike with its tasty servings of Bavaria's famous Weisswurst (White Sausage). Following our hearty lunch here we return to the central Old town to admire Regensburg splendid 14th centuryTown Hall at Rathausplatz and decide to settle for a refreshing beer in one of the Old Town's many taverns and beer halls in the shadow of the mighty and magnificient St. Peter's Cathedral.
A good point of reference and departure is lively Arnulfplatz, one of the busiest intersections and traffic throughways in town, but also perfect gateway to the Old Town's picturesque pedestrian zone. We stroll down pedestrianized Ludwigstrasse, more beautiful than ever following a recent face lift by local authorities, and head into the center of the Old Town towards HAIDPLATZ, one of the most scenically appealing squares in town. Here we find among other historic buildings, the medieval inn and hotel GOLDENES KREUZ (Golden Cross) dating back to the 13th century and site of many a king and emperor overnighting in town en route further South. Adjacent to the Golden Cross, the prestigious THON-DITTMER PALAIS is a true eye-catcher dominating the square, as it ranks among the nicest and best preserved neo-classical noble palaces in town. Rather than following the main flow of pedestrians towards Rathausplatz, we proceed further ahead to the right and enter a labyrinth of cobblestone alleyways, inner courtyards and shopping arcades leading us past attractive boutiques and local craftshops unique to Regensburg and this part of Bavaria. It is a pleasing testament to the local economy's vibrant and booming middle class, and to local authorities' attempts to support start-ups, prevent franchising of multinational corporations and thus foster the region's local identity.
As we proceed through the narrow and quaint cobblestone lanes of Old Town Regensburg, our view suddenly opens up to the medieval jewel of the city, the gothic masterpiece of St. Peter's Cathedral. Enormous in dimension for a city the size of Regensburg, it impresses with a height of 86 meters, beautiful gothic architecture, ancient stained glass windows, the most famous of which is the St. Peter Window, and impressive high vaulting. As we witness first-hand during a brief visit of St. Peter's 13th century interior, the city's main cathedral is kept in immaculate shape and boasts rich acoustics, which benefits the famous Regensburg Cathedral Sparrows Boys Choir, which regularly rehearses and performs here.
Yet the Gothic Cathedral is not the only architectural masterpiece Regensburg has to offer. As we continue to the right of the Dom's main entrance, we reach about a block further down the 'Monastery of Our Lady', more widely known as the OLD CHAPEL (Alte Kapelle). Dating originally back to the year 875, it underwent major restoration in the 18th century (starting in 1747) and nowadays ranks among one of the finest examples of ROCOCO architecture in Europe, a true delight for the senses. Far less frequented and just as ornate and playful as the famous Wieskirche near Füssen or the Wilten Basilika in Innsbruck, it allows for an intimate and overwhelming personal confrontation with Rococo beauty and its use as a religious art. We then exit through the side chapel and retrace our steps towards the central Old Town, leading to the wide and open NEUPFARRPLATZ, another attractive ensemble of well-preserved Patrician merchant houses with a spectacular view of St Peter's Cathedral in the background.
We then decide to head towards the Danube and Regensburg's famous STONY BRIDGE dating back to the 12th century and in 1189 the site where Emperor Frederic Barbarossa embarked on the 3rd Crusade. Here we find what may be Bavaria's most famous sausage stand - the HISTORISCHE WURSTLKUCHL - right in an area of the Danube embankment previously subject to frequent floods. Nowadays more regulated by levys and flood gates, it attracts locals and visitors alike with its tasty servings of Bavaria's famous Weisswurst (White Sausage). Following our hearty lunch here we return to the central Old town to admire Regensburg splendid 14th centuryTown Hall at Rathausplatz and decide to settle for a refreshing beer in one of the Old Town's many taverns and beer halls in the shadow of the mighty and magnificient St. Peter's Cathedral.
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