A Stroll through Paradise: Moravia's Garden of Europe

Over two decades since the fall of Communism, many attractions located just behind the former Iron Curtain remain secrets to most foreign visitors. Tourists tend to focus on over-publicized urban highlights such as Prague, Krakow or Budapest, but apart from a few day trip destinations away from those urban centers, few tend to venture further afield to discover the true gems in the countryside. Among such gems, the LEDNICE VALTICE cultural landscape, a UNESCO world-heritage site, stands out as one of the most spectacular, scenic yet underrated destinations.

Located conveniently on the Vienna to Prague route, the GARDEN OF EUROPE, as this area is known, can be found just a mere hour north of Vienna in the direction of BRNO, capital of Moravia. It is important to follow the signs for Brno rather than for Prague upon leaving Vienna, as the latter route via Telc is far less scenic and more congested. The Brno route, by contrast, is just as fast and can also be combined with a visit to Slovakia's capital BRATISLAVA nearby. The route is far more scenic too, and has recently been improved by road widening and motorway construction. The drive to the Czech border itself is highly picturesque with rolling hills, vineyards and fields opening up in what is known as DEUTSCH-MÄHREN, or German-Speaking Moravia. We pass the small community of Wilfersdorf with a small water chateau to the left, a taste of highlights to come, as this was the original power base of the LIECHTENSTEIN family in the 17th century, whose ample later estates we shall admire in Moravia.

We pass the Czech border at the scenically splendid town of MIKULOV, center of Moravian wine making and the Renaissance Castle which can be seen from miles away in the distance. Following a stop here, we take a right turn towards the Lednice Valtice areal, our off-the-beaten-track destination. A mere 5 miles ahead, we already see VALTICE chateau, the winter residence of the Liechtenstein family. The Liechtensteins were close associates of the Habsburgs during the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy and held huge estates all around the former empire, particularly here in Southern Moravia. Kicked out following WWII in the wake of the infamous BENES DOCTRINE, they since settled in the small fortress in Vaduz, Liechtenstein, between Switzerland and Austria. We can only imagine what a loss it must have been to give up all those riches in Moravia to settle for Vaduz.

Valtice itself, also a center of Moravian wine, is a quaint small town with a Baroque market square where the church of the Liechtensteins can be admired, adorned above the altar by a copy and original painting of Rubens. The castle itself is still in need of further private investments but has been partly renovated since the change of system. Built originally in the 12th century, it has since been redesigned in baroque style and features a magnificent frontal staircase perfect for scenic photographs. Driving a mere 3 miles further north, we come through the heart of the GARDEN OF EUROPE, a fine example of a cultural landscape unique in Europe and the world. The Liechtensteins decided to reroute the THAYA river and thus created a wonderful world of small artificial lakes, islands and trails. They erected playful ornate decorative buildings throughout the area, many of which can only be reached by foot or bicycle. Driving to Lednice, for instance, we see a gorgeous hunting chateau to our left by the lake shore.

The unmistakeable highlight itself, however, is LEDNICE palace itself, rebuilt in the 19th century in Neo-classical style, it looks like a Tudor-style castle transplanted to Southern Moravia. Once the summer residence of the Liechtensteins, it boasts one of the largest steel-and-glass greenhouses from the 19th century and a huge park areal, neatly landscaped and ornately decorated with buildings, such as the famous MINARET tower. None of such buildings have much religious significance, but were rather used as vehicles for artistic expression during the reign of the Liechtensteins. We stroll past the front side of LEDNICE chateau and witness the impressive greenhouse with lush vegetation inside. During spring and summer the gardens are particularly impressive, as they are tended by numerous gardeners including students from the Gardening and Agricultural Faculty of the University of BRNO.

Throughout the summer months, when many Czech and Slovak families come to visit the area as an ideal family holiday destination, BIRDS OF PREY are often on display throughout the park grounds. We proceed past the greenhouse and down towards the park area itself with islands and trails, admiring the MINARET tower from the 19th century in the distance before returning to the front side via the Aquarium, also open mostly in the summer months. Leaving the area to head further afield towards other parts of Moravia and Bohemia, we are left with the insight that a scenic slice of PARADISE may often be closer than we think, and often involves stepping outside our comfort zone of BUSINESS AS USUAL to discover all that really matters.

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