Beyond Benidorm: Albir & Racó del Conill

For decades now, the name Benidorm has been associated with mass tourism of the worst proportions. Drawn up and overdeveloped as early as the Franco years as one of the main tourist resorts of Spain, its skyline nowadays resembles those of an Asian metropolis and its beaches tend to overflow with package deal tourists from all over Europe. However, the COSTA BLANCA, as overdeveloped as it may have become between Alicante and Denia, still retains its charms and ranks among the most spectacular coastline on the Spanish Mediterranean. There ARE still quiet places to be found for solitude and peace away from the crowds. Two local getaways stand out among our favorites, i.e., the peninsula near ALBIR with its famous lighthouse, as well as the small remote beach of RACÓ DEL CONILL (Rabbit Corner) near Villa Joyosa.

It may be a good idea to leave early to avoid the sizzling summer heat and potential crowds, although the peninsula of ALBIR hardly attracts too much of a following. It is located just beside the communities of ALBIR and ALFAS DEL PI, both renown expatriote settlements along the Costa Blanca. The peninsula itself is an extension of the SIERRA HELADA mountain range just behind those two communities and juts out towards the Meditterranean with spectacular arid rock formations, giving way to the blue sea and sky. For that reason, the 3.5 km walk from the parking lot to the FARO DEL ALBIR lighthouse ranks among the scenically most appealing walks along the Costa Blanca. It is also among the easiest for both young and old, as the ascent is gradual and the constant breeze from the Mediterranean helps ease fatigue and overheating.

As we depart the parking lot just above Albir to begin our 1.5h walk towards the lighthouse, views initially open up towards the beach of Albir and nearby Calpe, all well-developed Costa Blanca resort towns but featuring low-rise buildings and thus less overbearing than Benidorm. The beach boasts light golden sand, and the Mediterranean in this area tends to appear with a deep almost surreal blue. A tunnel connects the initial trail to its continuation towards the lighthouse around the 1 km marker, and great views then open up further down the coast towards Javea and the Parc del Penyal di Fach. Sailboats and a fish breeding area mark this among the most scenic stretches of the Costa Blanca coastline. We then reach the abandoned lighthouse with spectacular views towards the open sea. Just before the lighthouse itself, a small trail leads up to an observation spot with even greater vistas of the sea, and small inofficial and potentially dangerous trail beam off for those more daring hikers wishing to proceed further.

Following our return toward the parking lot above ALBIR town, nice picnic grounds covered with roofs invite for a respite in the shade following the sun and wind, and we then feel the desire to cool off in the water on a nearby beach. Here the Treasures off the Beaten Track mission becomes a bit more difficult, as most beaches in and around Benidorm are notoriously crowded. There IS however, a small alternative beach area to the North of Benidorm near Villa Joyosa that still allows for peace and quiet in an alternative setting and with spectacular scenery. It is not a large beach but usually attracts only few visitors and thus allows for a beautiful scenic swim and beach experience with peace and quiet in what is otherwise an overdeveloped environment.

For the RACÒ DEL CONILL, Rabbit Corner this area is known as, it may be recommended to bring goggles along also, as the water is usually pristinely clear and many interesting species of fish may be observed, provided the sea is calm. The combination of ALBIR with its lighthouse and the RACO DEL CONILL beach therefore marks the perfect mix of light hiking with great views and refreshing quiet beach experience as a much welcome alternative break from the mass tourism of Benidorm nearby.

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