Exploring the Picos de Europa of Northern Spain

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Leaving behind the Atlantic coastline of Northern Spain, we proceed inland for about only 15 miles to enter what may rank among the most unique biospheres of the Iberian Peninsula, the PICOS DE EUROPA National Park. We suddenly feel reminded of Switzerland, as the vegetation turns lush & green, the humidity and rain fall increase and we gently wind our way uphill into the most scenic sections of the CORDILLERA CANTABRICA, as this mountainous part of Spain is called. 

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The Picos de Europa National Park is the first of its kind in Spain dating back to 1918 and was extended to include parts of Asturias and Castilla-León in 1993. It reaches peaks of up to 2600 meters (9000 feet) and in large parts offers a unique Mediterranean-Atlantic microclimate where the production of wine and ORUJO (firewater, a kind of grappa) flourishes, particularly in the scenic LIÉBANA valley. It is here that we gently meander uphill along the banks of the DEVA river to briefly straddle the border with the Kingdom of Asturias, the only region of Spain where the Moors failed to prevail. It is therefore called the Cradle of the Reconquista. 

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As we proceed and reenter Cantabria, we see numerous picturesque POSADAS (country inns) so typical for Northern Spain and reach the scenic LIÉBANA valley, for centuries isolated from the outside world. It is here that we hear about the legacy of the BEATUS OF LIÉBANA, an 8th century monk who preached and sought solitude here. Most known for his COMMENTARY ON THE APOCALYPSE dated 776, his scripts were circulated in monasteries throughout Northern Spain in the Middle Ages, the best preserved copy of which may be found in the Pyrenees in the town of La Seu d'Urgell. Not surprising that the Beatus was inspired in his writing by the spectacular scenery and incomparable sense of quiet, peace and solitude here in the Picos de Europa.

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The largest community of the Picos is the small town of POTES, population 1500, located in the Liébana Valley at the confluence of the Deva and Quiviesa rivers. The main industry here is tourism associated with mountain climbing and moderate skiing in the Picos de Europa. Numerous shops beckon visitors to come inside and admire the vast selection of mountain produce, ORUJO and handcraften wooded articles. Hiking sticks, pitch forks and wooden shoes rank among the favorite souvenirs here. In summer time, a vast number of outdoor cafes near the landmark TORRE DE INFANTADO are equally tempting. 

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From Potes we have several scenic options to continue our exploration of the Cantabrian Range. We can continue for another 15 miles towards the source of the DEVA river at Fuente Dé, where we find the famous TELEFÉRICO cable car to take us within less than 10 minutes to an elevation of 1800 meters (6000 feet) for some spectacular scenic views. 

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Alternatively we may choose to continue southbound along the mountain pass of PUERTO SAN GLORIO, which rising to an elevation of almost 1600 meters (5500 feet) offers spectacular views of the Picos area, particularly at the scenic MIRADOR DEL CORZO before descending onto the much more arid high plains of Castilla-León and the nearby town of Riaño.

Desert Hiking near Las Vegas: Exploring the East Mojave Preserve

Most visitors to Las Vegas flock to Sin City for the glitz & glamor of the Casinos and the neon lights of the Las Vegas Strip. Yet few may know that Southern Nevada also constitutes the perfect gateway for scenic excursions in both directions, either North towards Zion, Bryce Canyon or other National Parks in Utah or Southwest towards the beautiful Mojave desert shared by both Nevada and California. On previous occasions, Euroquest Sidetracks has touched on highlights and hidden treasures of the Mojave, including China Ranch, Kingston Peak or the bizare cave church of the "Christ of the Andes". Over 2 years ago, we previously presented an article entitled "Escapes in the East Mojave National Preserve" featuring a general outline of the magnificent desert landscape on a drive between Las vegas and Palm Springs, California. This gem of a desert secret, however, merits a more detailed account of the very highlights that make it so special: the fields of Joshua Tree Cacti near CIMA, California and the vast sand dunes of KELSO. Both also constitute perfect venues for timeless long hiking adventures through surreal desert scenery of unsurpassed beauty.

Upon leaving behind the Nevada-California state border on I-15 at Primm, we initially ascend and then descend the Mountain Pass and then reach an exit for "CIMA, California", which we take and subsequently turn left onto CIMA Road. Within a mile already the scenery changes abruptly from dull freeway desert to lush green fields of Joshua Tree Cacti. We witness first-hand some of the miracles of fauna and flora of the Mojave desert, so much drier and cooler and at a much higher altitude than the nearby Sonoran Desert of Arizona. That´s why Saguaro cacti cannot be found here, but instead this is among the only habitats for the unique JOSHUA TREE cactus. Where climatic conditions are ideal, such as in certain parts of the East Mojave Preserve, these cactus trees truly prosper and may reach up to 15-20 meter in height (or up to 50-60 feet). All along Cima Road within close proximity to Interstate I-15 numerous scenic points invite visitors to stop, walk and explore the majestic fields of Joshua Tree cacti. The area here also lends itself towards extensive hikes along some of the nearby trails, among the most beautiful of which ranks the 3-mile TEUTONIA PEAK TRAIL featuring the nearby Cima Dome & Teutonia Silver Mine. Continuing further South on Cima Road we also admire the color of the asphalt. Depending on the position of the sun the road surface may appear red or black - a colorful juxtaposition to the lush green of the Joshua Trees & the deep blue of the desert sky.

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We then reach Cima, California - a ghost town that has been left in ruins. Since our last post 2 years ago, even the post office sign announcing "CIMA CALIFORNIA, 92323" has been taken down. Few signs of human life are left in this desert outpost, although judging by the sight of occasional trailers here a small number of temporary residents seem to be attracted by the seclusion, quiet and remoteness of the Cima area in addition to its spectacular scenic beauty. Turning right on the "Kelso Cima Road" Highway we join the famous former Route 66 and follow along the rail road tracks for a good 20 miles - often colorful cargo trains either stand still here waiting for their continuing journey or slowly make their journey bound for urban areas of Southern California. 

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The next stop is Kelso, California. Unlike Cima, this small community has undergone a resurgence in recent years since the renovation and restoration of its historic railroad station. Ever since its inception in 1862, UNION PACIFIC needed a base in the Southwest desert & upon construction & acquisition of the so-called "Salt Lake" train route, the first depot in Kelso was built in 1905 with the edifice in its present form dating from 1924. Upon suspension of regular train service in this area in 1985, Union Pacific intended to raze the building, but concerned citizens helped save the depot from demolition and it was subsequently restored and opened to the public in 2005. Nowadays the station building marks the perfect stopover for visitors in the East Mojave Preserve featuring a free-of-charge museum, restrooms and a diner-style restaurant. 

From the Kelso train depot it is only a short drive towards the vast desert dunes nearby, by far among the most spectacular sights in the East Mojave Preserve. An unpaved sandy trail leads from the highway about 3 miles to a parking area with garbage and restroom facilites - the ideal point of departure for a lengthy hike along the vast and moving slopes of the Kelso dunes. Other websites have also commented on the beauty of the Kelso Dunes for hiking & walking activities (see http://www.birdandhike.com/Hike/MOJA/Kelso_Dunes/_Kelso_Dunes.htm for further details). Here we find rare fauna and flora of the Mojave desert including bunchgrasses, Creosote Bush and White Bursage. Throughout the sand dunes, animal trails may be found, many of which created by either lizards, kangoroo rats or occasionally by Sidewinders, a kind of rattlesnake, innocent if left alone. 

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About 30 minutes are enough to reach the lower slopes for an initial scenic view of the surrounding vast desert landscape. Yet it is advised to spend several hours here & start quite early in the day to take full advantage of the splendid sense of space, solitude & peace this desert gem has to offer. From the higher slopes at about 480 feet we enjoy splendid views over the entire area known as the DEVIL`S PLAYGROUND, a truly unforgettable & timeless experience. Although the distance covered may amount to only 1.5 miles each way, the total hike of about 3 miles is nonetheless strenuous due to the difficult nature of walking at a steady pace on sandy surface. Following our memorable hiking adventure at the Kelso dunes, we may either resume our drive towards the greater Palm Springs area or return towards Las Vegas the same way we came, with a possible alternative route via Morning Star Mine Road in Cima leading us back towards the Nevada border and the Nipton Road exit at Interstate I-15. This last alternative return route equally offers splendid views of fields after fields of Joshua Tree Cacti attesting to the unsurpassed scenic beauty of this particular stretch of the Mojave Desert.

Desert Hiking near Palm Springs

Many visitors local and foreign alike enjoy the sunny desert climate of Palm Springs, California. Year-round sunshine and mild temperatures in the winter months attract snowbirds or foreign tourists from colder climes, while local visitors from the large California metro areas, such as Los Angeles or San Diego, tend to flock to the Coachella Valley of Palm Springs to get away from urban gridlock & enjoy a few quiet days in the sun. Most tend to spend time, however, along the main throughways of Palm Canyon Drive & Indian Canyon Drive downtown or prefer to lounge by the pool in the sun. Major outdoor attractions of greater Palm Springs also include a tramway ascending 3000 ft. above the city with splendid scenic views and numerous hiking possibilities, or a visit to the nearby Indian Canyon & Taquitz Canyon Reservations. The latter offer breathtaking natural habitats, yet are not free of charge & often tend to be crowded. The tramway too attracts huge crowds filling numerous parking lots nearby with visitors being shipped off in droves up the tramway for their scenic ride. 

To those of us enjoying a genuine break from mass tourism, the greater Palm Springs area equally has many attractions in store. They range from thermal pools in nearby Desert Hot Springs to day excursions to nature preserves in the area, such as Joshua Tree National Park to the North. For shorter getaways from crowds, numerous local hiking opportunites beckon, among the most secluded of which we find the trails inside the Coachella Valley Preserve just North of Palm Springs in the small community of Thousand Palms. To reach this nature preserve, we leave Palm Springs on any of the major access roads, such as Gene Autry Trail, join I-10 Eastbound & leave the freeway at Thousand Palms. From here a small highway links the circular road around the Northern half of the Greater Palm Springs, Cathedral City & Indio Metro area. 

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About two thirds up on that link road, we find an attractive grove of date palms with the Visitors´center of the 1000 Palms Canyon in the Coachella Valley Preserve. The visitors´center is located in a small wooden service building, which was previously part of a Date Palm Ranch. Numerous hiking trails radiate in various directions from here, the easiest and shortest of which is the 1.4 mile McCullum trail. For those with limited time, such short desert walks offer a short yet true respite from the hustle and bustle of city life nearby and a worthwhile introduction to the area´s local fauna & flora.

Just outside the visitors´center many longer trails originate, which serve as an ideal scenic excursion to nearby desert attractions. Most of which require crossing the highway & continuing into barren desert landscape on the other side. A map post outlines trails of various length & level of difficulty, including the Indian, Horseshoe, Pushawalla & Hidden Palm Oases trails. Whereas the Hidden Palm Oases trail is located at lower altitude & is thus suitable even for families with children, the Horseshoe & Pushawalla trail gradually ascends the nearby desert mountains, and once passing a flight of steep stairs, continuously loops from one mountain top to the next along the so-called "BEE ROCK MESA", offering splendid scenic views of the Greater Coachella Valley and the cities of Palm Springs and Palm Desert below. 

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Most of these trails take several hours to complete and should be undertaken earlier in the day to avoid return hikes in the dark. Plenty of water supplies are also advised, particularly during the scorching hot summer months. Almost all the trails attract relatively few visitors, many of which unaware of the attractive desert palm groves awaiting them after longer hikes through barren landscape. Therefore as a true break from mainstream tourism and a journey towards solitude, peace & quiet, the Coachella Valley Preserve and 1000 Palms Canyon constitutes the perfect getaway & Treasure of the beaten track destination in the desert areas of Southern california.

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A Baja Carnival in La Paz

 

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Think Carnival and most will say Rio de Janeiro. Yet there are numerous other places in the world famous for their Carnival celebrations ranging from Mardi Gras in New Orleans to Carnival in Venice or the fiestas surrounding Carnival in Santa Cruz de Tenerife on the Canary Islands. Few may think of Mexico as a carnival destination, even less so since the rise of one-sided media reporting on the ongoing drug war and its potential dangers for visitors. Within Mexico, the carnival in Veracruz is probably the best known and most ebullient, but there are other well-known Carnival hotspots in Mexico including Mazatlán, Sinaloa and La Paz, the capital of Baja California Sur. 

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Located thousands of miles away from the more populous areas of Mexico on the main land, the South of the Baja Peninsula is truly a far cry away from many of the country´s ongoing woes, including the power struggles between drug cartels near the U.S. border. Southern Baja´s capital city, La PAZ,  is a charming, picturesque community of about 200 ooo inhabitants and captures the peace & quiet of this remote part of the world - except may be during the Carnival season. Then uncountable stands are erected alongside La Paz´famous MALECÓN (seaside promenade) with a main stage in the very center at the crossing of the Malecón and La Paz´ main street "16 de Septiembre". The stage functions as a focal point during the city´s carnival celebrations featuring the nightly appearance of well-known Mexican celebrities throughout the festive period. The carnival frenzy then extends along both sides of the Malecón for up to 5 blocks and later at night continues in La Paz´numerous clubs including the Jungle and the alternative The Dome.

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Visitors will be thrilled to find out that La Paz boasts great hotels at a reasonable price located close to the heart of carnival madness. Among the best values in town we find the BAJA SOUTH hotel (550 MXP for a double room) conveniently located right behind the bus terminal and 1 block away from the Malecón. Here nights won´t be too quiet however, with all the carnival music and partying nearby. A quieter alternative would be the Hotel Del Ángel on C. Revolución (400/600 MXP per room) within immediate surroundings to the city´s attractive Cathedral CATEDRAL dE LA PAZ & the Centro de Artes y Cultura of Baja California Sur. Here we also find our favorite breakfast, brunch and lunch hangout, CAFÉ CORAZÓN serving scrumtious Mexican specialties at very competitive prices. Our other perennial favorite, LA BOHèME, located on C. Esquerro downtown, boasts a magnificent inner courtyard with lush vegetation. Run for decades by a string of French owners, La Bohème also serves esquisite food but at much more elevated prices. The atmosphere alone, however, is worth a visit. Lovers of seafood will equally be delighted by La Paz´ vast selection of sea food eateries, the most famous of which, EL BISMARKCITO is located right along the Malecón. A less expensive and more local alternative is Mc Fish on C. Morelos between Revolución & Madero featuring delicious seafood dishes - their seafood soup and shrimp burgers are among the best in town. Also see "Eat like a Paceño", http://visit-lapaz.com/?p=335, for further recommendations.

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Yet La Paz also boasts breathtaking surroundings. Heading towards the port of PICHILINGUE, we pass several newly developed beach resorts, including the prestigious golf course of the recently built COSTABAJA property. Further afield, a true highlight awaits with the bay of BALANDRA beach, among the most picturesque and pristine in the entire Baja pensinsula. Yet caution is advised when bathing at this beach as the Bay is full of shellfish and their sting may be quite painful and potentially fatal. Finally La Paz also serves as the ideal gateway for destinations further afield such as Constitución and Loreto towards the North or the East Cape of Baja towards the South. An ideal destination to retire or just to get away from civilization for a while, Southern Baja´s capital truly enchants visitors with its scenic beauty and genuine local Baja culture and hospitality.

Lava Land Sun, Solitude & Silence

When talking about volcano islands, most may think of Iceland or Hawaii - many may not know that Lanzarote, one of the Canary Islands in the Atlantic off the coast of Africa, has much more to offer than package deal resorts. While beaches may be more bountiful on other islands of the Canaries, Lanzarote boasts the most unique volcanic landscape and the most harmonious architecture. It was local artist´s César Manrique´s legacy that public building ordinances were changed to require all houses on the island to remain white and low-rise, which with few exceptions has been carefully observed since his passing. While most visitors to Lanzarote tend to stay in the main tourist resort of Puerto del Carmen, the island has much more remote and unspoilt scenery to offer in its Northern half. Here we find the high mountain range of the RISCO DE FAMARA with spectacular views over the Atlantic ocean and the nearby island of LA GRACIOSA. It is here, in the village of YÉ, that we start our hiking exploration of sun, solitude and silence in these lands of lava and white homes.

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It is advisable to start the day early - preferably by 9am to maximize the amounts of time for hiking and rest. Since the difference in altitude to be covered ranges around 800 meters, ample time should be allocated particularly for the return ascent of the Famara range, the most strenuous part of our hiking adventure. As we leave behind the village of Yé en route to Guinate, a turn-off on the right leads on a narrow paved road towards the Mirador del Río. As we proceed on that small road for about 300 yards, a cobble-stone driveway and parking lot appear to our left. It is well advised to take along all personal belongings from the car, as car break-ins are not uncommon here. A clearly marked path leads from here towards a panoramic lookout point, from where splendid views may be enjoyed over the Famara Range, Atlantic Ocean and the island of La Graciosa. Yet this marks also the beginning of a small, narrow hiking trail, which cuts into the lava land and curves down towards the coastline. Down below in the valley underneath the Famara Range, the path then splits into various directions, including a small trail that leads towards the right and on to the unspoilt shores of the PLAYA DEL RISCO, our chosen destination.

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Caution is advised during both the descent and ascent of the Famara Range, as the surface of these volcanic soils may be highly slippery. Regular curves guarantee frequent possibilities to pause and rest joints and legs while enjoying magnificent vistas of the surrounding coastline. We also pass several power line poles that bring electricity to these remote corners of Lanzarote and on to La Graciosa, the capital village of which, CALETA DEL SEBO, may be seen shining below with is marvellously white-washed houses. The descent takes about 40 minutes depending on speed and frequency of breaks until we reach the turn-off point, from which several trails radiate left, right or immediately to the coast. We turn right and continue through semi-arid vegetation featuring shrubs and bushes until we pass over a range of rocks to then enjoy the full view of one of Lanzarote´s most unique, isolated and unspoilt beaches, the PLAYA DEL RISCO. 

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For a huge beach of its extension and size, it is virtually deserted, even more so if our hiking adventure is undertaken earlier in the day. On very rare occasions, visitors may be seen arriving by water taxi, which may be an option for physically challenged visitors that may not be able to do the hike and yet would like to see the beauty of this remote beach. For the water taxi option, visitors would first take the ship from the Northernmost community of ORZOLA to the island of La Graciosa. From there, water taxis may be taken from the island´s capital Caleta del Sebo over towards the PLAYA DEL RISCO. This choice may also come in handy for those wishing to camp on the beach overnight in the summer and would not like to carry all camping supplies along the slippery strenuous hiking route.

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 Subject to tidal moves, the sands of PLAYA DEL RISCO appear and vanish with the tides, often offering visitors uniquely picturesque opportunities for photography, meditation and self-awareness. For that reason, above hike may best be undertaken quite early in the day to maximize the downtime along the PLAYA DEL RISCO. We also suggest a return departure no later than 330/4pm to allocate ample time for what is the most strenuous part of our hiking day, the return ascent to the village of YÉ. It is also possible to stroll along the immediate coastline to discover other remote inlays, bays and small beaches unspoilt by tourism and to join one of the other side trails returning to the turn-off point culminating in the main path leading back up the Famara Range. Frequent pauses are strongly advised, as even physically able individuals may have a challenging time with the return ascent covering an altitude difference of 800 meters. As we return to the balcony overlooking the ocean and La Graciosa, about 1-1.5 hours have passed since our departure from the beach and we then return to civilization physically tired from the hike but mentally and spiritually renewed by the magnificent experience of visiting one of the most remote and scenic corners of Lanzarote´s Lava Lands.