Hunting Horns & Dvorak Tunes at Chateau Sychrov


Most visitors to the Czech Republic focus solely on the capital Prague, with far fewer foreigners exploring the rustic charms of the Czech country side. And there almost all visitors tend head to the UNESCO World Heritage Jewels of the Czech lands, including Cesky Krumlov or Kutna Hora. Very few visitors venture North towards the Czech-German border, although Northern Bohemia has plenty of unique attractions to offer, among them the cities of USTI NAd LABEM and LITOMERICE. Not far from the town of Liberec and the small community of Turnov, we find another hidden jewel of Northern Bohemia, the Chateau Sychrov, an enchanting fairy-tale castle almost entirely devoid of tourist traffic. Following four decades of isolation on the other side of the Iron Curtain, Northern Bohemia is only slowly opening up towards Tourism. For that reason, the area ranks as a worthwhile Treasure off the Beaten Track destination and thus deserves further mention. 

The journey from Prague to Northern Bohemia takes just over an hour and leads us past the industrial town of Mlada Boleslav, home to the SKODA motor works, a Czech business success story since recent cooperation with German Volkswagen. About 30 minutes further North, the highway splits between Liberec and Turnov. Heading towards Turnov, the following exit indicates Sychrov and leads us over a small country highway about 1-2 miles further inland to the secluded premises of Chateau Sychrov itself, a gem of a hunting chateau in the middle of Northern Bohemia. 

Originally built as a Baroque Palace on the site of a former Gothic fortress, Sychrov underwent significant Neo-Gothic adaptations by 1834 under the ROHAN family, who had escaped France following the 1789 Revolution and resettled here under the Habsburgs. Unlike many French artistocratic families, the ROHANS decided to decline the invitation to return to France under Napoleon's rule and instead made Sychrov their main residence. Here we find today's largest collection of French portraits outside France in the Rohan's gallery with an approximate total of 240 paintings. Particularly the interior of Chateau Sychrov ranks among the most magnificent of any palace in Bohemia due to the elaborate woodcarvings undertaken by Czech master carver PETR BUSEK. The entire interior of the chateau underwent reconstruction in Romantic Historicist style on the basis of PRUVOT's books on English Gothic furniture design. Among the most outstanding features are the Salon, Library and Dining Hall of the Rohans all redesigned under Petr Busek. In addition, the family's china  porcelain and fine cutlery collection attest to the Rohan's immaculate taste in interior design. For that reason, Chateau Sychrov is also regarded among the best examples in the Czech Republic of architectural harmony between the palace exterior, interior and surrounding park and garden areas.

Among the most charming features of any visit to Chateau Sychrov are the hunting horns, which during the season chime every hour on the hour until dusk. In addition to a guided tour of the castle interior, several small yet outstanding businesses operate on the palace grounds, among them the official castle gift shop, a goldsmith, Bohemian Glass shop and miscellaneous handicrafts store. The goldsmith and glass shop in particular offer a moderate selection of locally handcrafted items at a fraction of the cost of similar items in Prague. The gardens and grounds of Sychrov, carefully redesigned in English Park style, equally invite visitors for extensive strolls and panorama visits. Lastly, regular concert events are held at Chateau Sychrov, many dedicated to ANTONIN DVORAK, who through his friendship to Rohan clerk ALOIS GOEBL frequently came for visits to Sychrov in the 19th century and found peace and inspiration here. A plaque dedicated to Dvorak may be found on the left side of the Chateau's main outside courtyard. The adjacent Chateau Sychrov Hotel & Restaurant was added recently and offers a quiet wellness oasis with 4star facilities in what many regard as among the least touristically exploited areas of the Czech Republic. For that reason, Chateau Sychrov may truly be regarded as a Treasure off the Beaten Track destination encouraging genuine quiet personal bonding with art, nature and architecture.

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