Black Sea Discoveries II: Sights along the Black Sea Coast

Most visitors to Bulgaria come during the summer peak as part of a hotel & flight package, flying into Burgas and staying at a nearby resort, such as Sunny Beach or Nessebar. While such visits are hardly inspiring beyond the hotel, beach & pool routine, there are several alternative attractions for visitors to discover in the area, which may break the package-deal monotony and introduce guests to more local sites and experiences. For such alternative activities, best to rent a car for a day or two, or to make use of local bus connections.

The undeniable gem of the Bulgarian Black Sea is NESSEBAR, originally a Thracian and later a Greek settlement (Messambria) on a peninsula declared a WORLD HERITAGE SITE by the UNESCO in 1983. Here the key is timing, as Nessebar reveals its true magic only when tour groups are absent, which is in early May or late September. Otherwise the small town turns into a Bulgarian kitch Disneyland with hundreds of kitch souvenir stands catering to thousands of tour groups - thus hardly a Treasure off the Beaten Track destination. In fact, during the peak of summer, the onslought of tour groups and souvenir stands tends to be so bad, that the true monuments, such as the many byzantine churches and Bulgarian Revival houses, can hardly be noticed. So best to keep Nessebar for early or very late in the season, when many of the shops are closed and crowds are absent. Then the must-sees of Nessebar include its fantastic Archeological Museum by the ancient City Gate & Wall along with its plethora of Byzantine and Ottoman-Era churches and relics.

Much quieter and more subdued than Nessebar is Bulgaria's second Black Sea gem- SOZOPOL. It even precedes Nessebar age-wise going back to early Thracian times, but many original monuments and churches were destroyed during a powerful 1913 earthquake in the Balkans. Since then, Sozopol has been rebuilt with more modern architecture, although several churches and 19th century Bulgarian Revival houses still remain. The largest church in central Sozopol, the 19th century orthodox St. George's church, is purported to have the remains of St. John the Baptist inside, which attracts numerous pilgrims from Bulgaria and beyond. Following Thracian rule, Sozopol became a Greek settlement called APOLLONIA, with the Greek name still used today for the annual Apollonia Arts Festival in early September attracting thousands of visitors interested in the Arts, Music and Poetry. Strongly recommended for food and drink is the popular WINDMILL restaurant at the tip of the Sozopol peninsula as well as the many cafes along the northern boardwalk, with splending views of the Black Sea and nearby Sozopol beach.

Apart from the undeniable highlights of Nessebar and Sozopol, there are numerous other nice activities and sites for visitors to the area, yet hardly any of them overwhelming, however, and few if any inspiring a true introduction to Bulgarian local ways and culture. Among such activities, a cruise on the nearby ROPOTAMO river may stand out, or a visit to the salt town of POMORIE with its Salt Museum, Thracian Tombs and St. George's monastery. Numerous local wineries, such as Chateau Medovo about 20 minutes outside of Pomorie, also beckon for wine tastings and souvenir shopping. Although hardly a beautiful city, BURGAS may yet prove to be the most rewarding regional destination for a taste of local Bulgarian culture. As the country's 4th largest city, it boasts an attractive pedestrian zone, modern shopping facilities and local infrastructure, which allows guests to savor how locals go about their daily affairs. Its nearby Sea Garden is equally attractive and worthwhile for strolls and coffee breaks. While sipping a Latte at a downtown Burgas outdoor cafe, we thus enjoy our Bulgarian Black Sea adventures the local way as a nice and marked contrast to the more touristic venues further North and South along the Coast.

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