Beaches and Ruins on the Mayan Riviera I: Tulúm, Cobá & Beyond
Once the mass-tourist resorts of Cancún and Playa del Carmen are left behind, we may wish to head South on the Mayan Riviera to discover some of the true treasures of the Yucatán Peninsula, the Mayan ruins in Tulúm and Cobá. Just an hour south of Playa del Carmen by bus, we reach the sprawling village of Tulúm, once a sleepy small community and now a booming center for ecologically-minded tourism and gateway for the Mayan heritage sites. In Tulúm, it may be advisable to rent a bicycle to have easier access to the amenities in the village itself, as well as to the Mayan ruins and the magical beaches on the Carribbean. The first stop of any bus service to Tulúm is at the "ZONA ARQUEOLÓGICA", from which a 5 minute walk leads past sales booths and local handicrafts to the Museum Entrance itself. At a cost of 57 Pesos per Person, visitors gain access to what may rank among the most fascinating and scenic sights on the Yucatán Peninsula. Mayan ruins meet the blue Carribbean and reach right to the coast itself, from which a wooden staircase leads down to a highly picturesque and frequented beach area. The scenic route around the ruins may be completed within an hour or two and additional time may be allocated for the beach below. It is advisable to visit early in the day upon the site´s opening at 8am to avoid crowds. Later in the afternoon, most daytrippers from Cancun have already left again and it is equally calm and devoid of crowds.
Leaving the "Zona Arqueológica" of Tulum, visitors can either head back to the main highway to go into Tulúm village or alternatively head along the coastal route North. It is impressive that over many kilometers no single access can be found to a nice public beach area. In recent years, literally every stretch of coastal land has been developed into resorts, most of which ecologically minded but nonetheless geared towards large numbers of visitors. Only just north of the Mayan ruins can be find a public beach, among the nicest, most scenic and most publisized beaches on the Mayan Riviera: Playa Paraíso. Here it is possible to enjoy carribbean beach bliss with a view of the ruins nearby. yet solitude may only be encountered here early in the day or around sunset, as at other times amply crowds and couples frequent Paradise beach in search of a tan. As for all other areas around Tulúm, using a bicycle may be the best, cheapest and most environmentally friendly option. The coastal route North towards the Sian Kaan Biosphere is lined with one resort after another, whereas the road into Tulúm village is awaiting larger-scale development in years to come with the construction of a residential community and the recent opening of the Chedraui grocery store.
Tulúm village itself may be the best base for food and accomodation, as prices tend to be lower and variety considerably larger than along the resort road. Among clean yet budget-oriented hotels, ITOUR Mexico may rank among the most popular choices, as the Italian owner Marco and his team take excellent care of visitors and friends old and new during their stay in Tulúm. Bikes are provided free of charge to patrons, and breakfast with Italian cappuccino is included in the service. About 2 minutes by bike or a 10-minute walk away we find the village center with a variety of inexpensive eateries, among which SABOR INFINITO for Mexican food, Café Expresso for breakfast and CAMELLO for Seafood dishes rank as perennial favorites.
From Tulum´s ADO bus station, it takes about a 45-minute coach ride inland to reach what may be regarded as one of the most fascinating Maya heritage sites, the pyramids and ruins of Cobá. A small community in the middle of the Yucatán wilderness, Cobá boasts several small attractive lakes, where alligators and crocodiles may be visited. A few yards further ahead, the museum entrance with visitor facilites is located. Upon payment of entrance fees (57 pesos per person), a square opens up from which bicycles may be rented for 30 pesos for the duration of the visit, which is advisable, since many of the ruins and pyramids are located within a distance of several miles from each other. The 2 highest pyramids offer sweeping views of the surrounding jungle area and along with several other ruins and excavation sites may easily be visited within 90 to 120 minutes. Visitors may then return towards Tulum and the coast or opt to continue futher inland towards Valladolid and the capital of Quintana Roo, Mérida.
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