Crimean Adventures II: Making Love, Not War in Balaklava
Touring the Crimean Peninsula has truly some unexpected surprises in store for visitors. From the exoticism of the Palace of the Khans to the scenic coastline around Yalta, there is something for almost everyone here. Even military enthusiasts will get their fair share of sightseeing done here - mostly in the big naval port city of Sevastopol in the southwest of Crimea. It is here and its surrounding area that the proud history, suffering and memories of several wars are kept alive for locals and visitors alike. Although I am not much of a war enthusiast and have always preferred John Lennon's "MAKE LOVE NOT WAR" philosophy, a visit to Sevastopol has some highly interesting insights to yield on the nature, impact and remembrance of war time for a nation. And as anywhere else in Crimea, this is hardly a mass-tourist experience but rather a personal, tamed-down, private encounter with warfare, patriotism, heroism and its legacy.
And wars there have been many here - the most notable conflicts that we can learn about during our Crimean adventures are of course World War II and the ensuing Cold War, but also the CRIMEAN WAR (1853-56). As we head south from Simferopol and Bakhchiseray to Sevastopol, the scenically gorgeous and strategically important location of the naval port becomes obvious. The city itself with a population of 350 000 was mostly destroyed during World War II and rebuilt with relatively good taste and fewer ugly soviet-style apartment blocks in the 1950s and 60s. Until the present day, Ukraine and Russia have been arguing over the fate of the BLACK SEA FLEET. Russia is still leasing parts of the port with the lease expiring in the near future. With this part of Ukraine being predominantly Russian-speaking, ethnic and political conflicts may need to be addressed and resolved soon. The city is otherwise surprisingly green, architecturally appealing and has signs of its glorious naval past everywhere, from the naval monument by the Bay to the Ukrainian and Russian flags near their respective Black Sea Fleet Headquarters.
Yet the most interesting sights in Sevastopol are related to the Crimean War (1853-56), during which the Russians fought against British, French and Ottoman forces and the city was totally devastated. The key event of that war, the "DEFENSE OF SEVASTOPOL" can be admired in the PANORAMA building. It is a life-size canvas painted by panoramic artist and battle-painter Franz Aleksevich Roubaud (1856-1928) depicting key scenes of the Defense of Sevastopol in 1854/55. The experience for the visitor is one of heart-wrenching warfare coupled with unfamiliar exoticism related to notions of heroism and patriotism either unheard of nowadays or suspiciously associated with militarism and right-wing politics. Following our visit to the city center of Sevastopol, the port area, cathedral and the highly moving yet beautiful experience at the PANORAMA, we head EAST in the direction of Balaklava to witness another key sight of the Crimean War - the so-called "VALLEY OF DEATH" of the "CHARGE OF THE LIGHT BRIGADE" of October 25th, 1854 during one of the key events of the Crimean War, the BATTLE OF BALAKLAVA. Local guides still get emotional when they recount the horrendous experiences of Russian Crimean fighters when they were confronted with the charge of the British cavalry led by Lord Cardigan and immortalized by the famous poem "THE CHARGE OF THE LIGHT BRIGADE" by Lord Alfred Tennyson.
We then reach a pleasant resort-looking community, Balaklava, scenically located in a Bay and offering quiet, relaxed cafes, restaurants and shops on its water-front promenade. The military importance of the venue only becomes obvious upon second sight, noticing that the Bay is in fact mysteriously hidden from the open sea and hardly noticeable from outside. We then notice what looks like industrial port facilities on the other side of the Bay - and it is here we get a first-hand taste of the COLD WAR while visiting the former secret Russian submarine base at Balaklava. This area was top-secret for many decades and only opened as a museum to the general public a few years ago. A creepy, fascinating and moving experience indeed, as we venture into the dark tunnels and caves of the submarine base itself. Everyone in our small group seems eerily moved, impressed and intimidated by the visit.
Following such intriguing, exotic and uprooting first-hand history lessons on Warfare, national heroism and the fatherland, strangely exotic concepts to many of us nowadays, we decide to indulge in somewhat more earthly delights and head over to the waterfront promenade for a leisurely lunch, enjoying the fresh catch of the day brought in by the fishermen, and bask in the afternoon sun of this hidden gem of Balaklava.
And wars there have been many here - the most notable conflicts that we can learn about during our Crimean adventures are of course World War II and the ensuing Cold War, but also the CRIMEAN WAR (1853-56). As we head south from Simferopol and Bakhchiseray to Sevastopol, the scenically gorgeous and strategically important location of the naval port becomes obvious. The city itself with a population of 350 000 was mostly destroyed during World War II and rebuilt with relatively good taste and fewer ugly soviet-style apartment blocks in the 1950s and 60s. Until the present day, Ukraine and Russia have been arguing over the fate of the BLACK SEA FLEET. Russia is still leasing parts of the port with the lease expiring in the near future. With this part of Ukraine being predominantly Russian-speaking, ethnic and political conflicts may need to be addressed and resolved soon. The city is otherwise surprisingly green, architecturally appealing and has signs of its glorious naval past everywhere, from the naval monument by the Bay to the Ukrainian and Russian flags near their respective Black Sea Fleet Headquarters.
Yet the most interesting sights in Sevastopol are related to the Crimean War (1853-56), during which the Russians fought against British, French and Ottoman forces and the city was totally devastated. The key event of that war, the "DEFENSE OF SEVASTOPOL" can be admired in the PANORAMA building. It is a life-size canvas painted by panoramic artist and battle-painter Franz Aleksevich Roubaud (1856-1928) depicting key scenes of the Defense of Sevastopol in 1854/55. The experience for the visitor is one of heart-wrenching warfare coupled with unfamiliar exoticism related to notions of heroism and patriotism either unheard of nowadays or suspiciously associated with militarism and right-wing politics. Following our visit to the city center of Sevastopol, the port area, cathedral and the highly moving yet beautiful experience at the PANORAMA, we head EAST in the direction of Balaklava to witness another key sight of the Crimean War - the so-called "VALLEY OF DEATH" of the "CHARGE OF THE LIGHT BRIGADE" of October 25th, 1854 during one of the key events of the Crimean War, the BATTLE OF BALAKLAVA. Local guides still get emotional when they recount the horrendous experiences of Russian Crimean fighters when they were confronted with the charge of the British cavalry led by Lord Cardigan and immortalized by the famous poem "THE CHARGE OF THE LIGHT BRIGADE" by Lord Alfred Tennyson.
We then reach a pleasant resort-looking community, Balaklava, scenically located in a Bay and offering quiet, relaxed cafes, restaurants and shops on its water-front promenade. The military importance of the venue only becomes obvious upon second sight, noticing that the Bay is in fact mysteriously hidden from the open sea and hardly noticeable from outside. We then notice what looks like industrial port facilities on the other side of the Bay - and it is here we get a first-hand taste of the COLD WAR while visiting the former secret Russian submarine base at Balaklava. This area was top-secret for many decades and only opened as a museum to the general public a few years ago. A creepy, fascinating and moving experience indeed, as we venture into the dark tunnels and caves of the submarine base itself. Everyone in our small group seems eerily moved, impressed and intimidated by the visit.
Following such intriguing, exotic and uprooting first-hand history lessons on Warfare, national heroism and the fatherland, strangely exotic concepts to many of us nowadays, we decide to indulge in somewhat more earthly delights and head over to the waterfront promenade for a leisurely lunch, enjoying the fresh catch of the day brought in by the fishermen, and bask in the afternoon sun of this hidden gem of Balaklava.
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