EUROQUEST SideTracks

More than 2 decades since the Fall of Communism, there are few places left behind what used to be the Iron Curtain that truly look and feel different. Particularly close to the former Western border, many cities have adopted the same blend of commercial infrastructure and cityscape as their counterparts in Western Europe. In order to feel some of the remnants of what life under communism used to be like, it is nowadays necessary to travel much further afield to the East, unless we opt for Bratislava, capital of Slovakia and a mere hour away from waltzing Vienna. A journey to Bratislava also has the added benefit of introducing us to a destination much less publicized and thus less crowded than, say, Vienna or Prague and allows us to visit the capital of one of Europe's youngest nations, the Republic of Slovakia, created by the "Velvet Divorce" of the Czech and Slovak Republics in 1993. A visit to Slovakia thus also confronts us with the notion of cultural identity at the

Most visitors to the Czech Republic focus solely on the capital Prague, with far fewer foreigners exploring the rustic charms of the Czech country side. And there almost all visitors tend head to the UNESCO World Heritage Jewels of the Czech lands, including Cesky Krumlov or Kutna Hora. Very few visitors venture North towards the Czech-German border, although Northern Bohemia has plenty of unique attractions to offer, among them the cities of USTI NAd LABEM and LITOMERICE. Not far from the town of Liberec and the small community of Turnov, we find another hidden jewel of Northern Bohemia, the Chateau Sychrov, an enchanting fairy-tale castle almost entirely devoid of tourist traffic. Following four decades of isolation on the other side of the Iron Curtain, Northern Bohemia is only slowly opening up towards Tourism. For that reason, the area ranks as a worthwhile Treasure off the Beaten Track destination and thus deserves further mention.  See the full gallery on posterous The

See the full gallery on posterous Nothing better on a sunny Sunday than to escape San Diego's urban area and head 20 miles on I-5 in the direction of Los Angeles to the charming communities of San Diego's North County. Once past the Mormon Temple near La Jolla and the exclusive community of Del Mar, we reach SOLANA BEACH and Encinitas - perfect getaways for a day trip away from the city. Both boast gorgeous coastline and pristine beach areas, but it is the alternative charm of Encinitas that makes it stand out in Greater San Diego, and no better time to witness this than on a Sunday, when the seaside resort's FARMERS' MARKET is in full swing. Our first stop in Encinitas, however, is the San Diego Botanic Garden, formerly known as "QUAIL BOTANICAL GARDENS", a green sanctuary of over four miles of park and trails featuring more than 3300 varieties of plants including the nation's largest Bamboo collection. Admission is not cheap but helps to ensure surviv

There are few cities in North America that take such pride in their local neighborhoods as San Diego. While most US cities consist of office space downtown and bland suburban sprawl, almost all neighborhoods in San Diego are alive, unique and offer dining, nightlife and recreational options that are based in the local economy rather than big corporate franchises. For that reason, a walk around the various parts of Southern California's favorite city offers a valuable glimpse of local San Diego and a true visitor experience away from the mainstream. Local authorities have also been promoting the various communities that make up greater San Diego by supporting local businesses and erecting neighborhood signs on main streets everywhere. See the full gallery on posterous By far the most up-and-coming area of San Diego is NORTH PARK, as it is still moderately affordable and thus attracts local businesses, artists and visionaries. Here on UNIVERSITY AVENUE and 30th Street we fi

Visitors to San Diego will undoubtedly set foot onto the precious premises of Balboa Park - the green gem and natural retreat of San Diego, and among others, home to the world-famous San Diego Zoo. Yet Balboa Park has an infinite number of attractions, both well-publicized and hidden, and as such, tends to cater to visitors and locals alike. For that reason, Balboa Park constitutes a wonderful meeting point between visitors and locals, where the former become acquainted with true local Southern California hospitality and the latter engage in fruitful exchanges with a vast variety of cultural and artistic impulses in a spectacular and unique natural setting. For that reason, Balboa Park is a main tourist attraction and a treasure off the beaten track in its own right, combining the best of both, most of which is totally free of charge. For hiking, biking and other outdoor recreational activities, the part of Balboa Park located EAST of FLORIDA DRIVE, MORLEY FIELD, offers the best cond

Northern California has wonderful outdoor recreational options and certainly more to offer visitors than just the urban charm of San Francisco.The Bay Area as a whole features vast expanses of park and wilderness territory just outside the metropolitan areas of San Francisco, Oakland and San Jose. Scenically nestled in the less developed sections of the East Bay, we find Mount Diablo State Park - a true oasis of quiet and solitude amidst the suburban sprawl of the nearby East Bay communities of Concord, Walnut Creek, Danville and San Ramon. For that reason, an excursion to Mount Diablo ranks among a true treasure-off-the-beaten-track experience featuring an infinite number of hiking and adventure trails amidst spectacular natural scenery and with no crowds or modern-day distractions disturbing the peaceful untouched setting. We begin approaching Mount Diablo State Park from the North - leaving Interstate 680 at Ygnacio Valley Boulevard in Walnut creek to continue eastward towards the

Even the locals love this place - when Nevadans need to escape the bland suburban sprawl and casino scene of Las Vegas, they head about 20 miles East to Boulder City. This Small Town America still radiates community spirit hard to find elsewhere in Clark County. This is certainly a Treasure off the Beaten Track destination, as tourists are few and locals work hard at preserving their community's heritage and small town flair. The history of Boulder City can be summorized in a nutshell: built in the 1930s to house workers building nearby HOOVER DAM, it looks back at not even a century of existence. Yet then again, all of Southern Nevada is quintessentially a product of the 20th century. And Boulder City pursued a radically different approach towards its urban conservation and community policies than nearby greater Las Vegas. To start with HOUSING, for instance, where for many years building ordinances were among the strictest and new developments limited to just a minor number an

Visitors to the Southwestern US usually focus on Greater Los Angeles with its attractions of Hollywood and Disneyland or head right to the area's natural wonders like Yosemite and the Grand Canyon. Fewer by far tend to dedicate time to San Diego or the sights of the nearby Mojave Desert, which we would like to cover in even greater detail in upcoming weeks here on Euroquest Sidetracks. Among those who do decide to visit Greater San Diego, the majority will stay in Old Town or see Balboa Park along with the city's world-famous zoo. Yet communities in the surrounding area equally hold great appeal and offer visitors a chance to experience a local side of San Diego along with its splendid Southern California hospitality. No better place than the seaside resort of La Jolla about 10 miles north of Downtown San Diego. Here we find the perfect set-up for a magical day away from the daily grind featuring spectacular coastline, a quaint and artistic inner city, a German brewery and near

Las Vegas has always been known as the the shimmering gambling metropolis in the middle of the arid Mojave Desert. Hardly anyone thinks of Southern Nevada when talking about Culture & the Arts. In fact, many would agree that culturally speaking, the greater Las Vegas area is just as much a desert wasteland as it is geographically. And in deed, High Culture seems far removed from the Neon lights on the Las Vegas Strip. Yet among the many missions of Euroquest Sidetracks, one has been to continuously question and dismantle stereotypes, and to seek alternative spaces amidst the mainstream. This week's contribution marks no difference, as we shall focus on the vibrant modern Las vegas Arts scene centered around E Charleston Boulevard. The history of Modern Art in Las Vegas is closely tied to the history of the FIRST FRIDAY event celebrated monthly since 2002. It nowadays attracts up to 10000 visitors and covers the 18 major blocks around the Las Vegas Arts center (locally refered

No visit to Bulgaria is ever complete without witnessing a traditional Folkore evening with local food, costumes, dance and customs. Most ethnographers and alternative world travellers would cringe at the thought of a Folklore Dinner, but as so many things in life, it all depends on WHERE and HOW it is done. For that reason, our fourth and last contribution on Bulgaria leads us to the remote mountain village of ERKETCH, nowadays called KOZICHINO, abour 30 minutes West of Nessebar/Sunny Beach, where such authentic Folkore traditions are still alive today. Most organized Folkore evenings begin with a visit to a genuine Bulgarian farm house in the countryside, and such visits allow guests a worthwhile glimpse into the real daily life of rural Bulgarians. Many dwellers in remote areas of Bulgaria are striving towards self-sufficiency, planting their own fruit and vegetables, as well as keeping their own lifestock for dairy products and meat consumption. Most old farmhouses still lack mod

In order to experience Bulgaria the local way, it is imperative to leave behind the tourist infrastructure on the Black Sea Coast and head inland for at least 1 to 2 hours by bus, car or motorbike. Here the true Bulgaria may be found, and the Balkan countryside may surprise outside observers by its stark beauty, variety of landscape and also its dire poverty. This is the forgotten Europe, and little has changed during the past two decades following the fall of communism. A combination of post-communist neglect and ubiquitous Bulgarian corruption has kept the funds flowing into the wrong pockets. Since much of said culture originates in the capital Sofia, most is kept and spent there, while little if any trickles down to the countryside. Equally, for young people it is thus important to seek opportunities in urban areas, as rural Bulgaria hardly offers sustainable prospects for their future. As we head East from Nessebar or Burgas, the next larger town, KARNOBAT, reflects the entire m

Most visitors to Bulgaria come during the summer peak as part of a hotel & flight package, flying into Burgas and staying at a nearby resort, such as Sunny Beach or Nessebar. While such visits are hardly inspiring beyond the hotel, beach & pool routine, there are several alternative attractions for visitors to discover in the area, which may break the package-deal monotony and introduce guests to more local sites and experiences. For such alternative activities, best to rent a car for a day or two, or to make use of local bus connections. The undeniable gem of the Bulgarian Black Sea is NESSEBAR, originally a Thracian and later a Greek settlement (Messambria) on a peninsula declared a WORLD HERITAGE SITE by the UNESCO in 1983. Here the key is timing, as Nessebar reveals its true magic only when tour groups are absent, which is in early May or late September. Otherwise the small town turns into a Bulgarian kitch Disneyland with hundreds of kitch souvenir stands catering to tho

When it comes to European Travel Destinations, Bulgaria still ranks among the more exotic destinations. In part due to its geopolitical location and post-communist legacy, this Balkan gem has had an ambiguous relationship to modern-day tourism, which in part helps to explain its outsider status. Once in the country, however, differences abound between heavily developed tourist resorts and untouched authentic infrastructure (or lack thereof). Although Bulgaria was able to join the European Union in 2007, the country is still a far cry away from Western European economic development and thus lacks a modern transportation network and other Western ammenities. It is precisely its lack of cohesive development and the contrast between modern "private investment" on the one hand and public neglect on the other, that makes for Bulgaria's greatest charm and attraction. Among all the destinations in Bulgaria, Varna ranks high on the list of most visitors. Dubbed by many as Bulgar

Hiking and the great outdoors are still exceptional ways to experience treasures off the beaten track, to seek solitude and explore unique destinations. The area around Yosemite National Park in California lends itself to such exploration, yet within the confines and limitations of the park area. Just a few miles further East of Yosemite, however, there are numerous smaller pockets of unchartered territory with greater flexibility and potential, as they fall outside the boundaries of the National Park. Among them, the area around Mono Lake and Mammoth Lakes stands out for its scenic beauty and variety of outdoor activities. Using Las Vegas, Nevada as a base, Mammoth Lakes thus lends itself perfectly as a long weekend getaway destination. The drive North to Mammoth is already an adventure in itself - passing through the moonscape of Death Valley National Park with a possible stop at Scotty's Castle, we eventually join Hwy 395 North-bound passing through some of the most deserted a

The Mojave Desert in the Soutwest has always been among our favorite treasures-off-the-beaten-track destinations. From the fields of Joshua Trees in the East Mojave Preserve to the thermal delights of Tecopa Hot Springs, the desert is alive and full of hidden surprises. We have in previous articles already covered several such destinations but would like to turn to two desert gems that very few visitors ever get to see during their Mojave explorations. Both can be covered within an exciting day trip from Las Vegas, and can be combined with several other highlights of the Desert Southwest. They are the fragile wetlands of the Salt Creek Reserve and the paranormal site of the Christ of the Andes. We embark on our journey on Interstate 15 towards Primm, NV, stop there for refreshments and shopping, then cross over into California and continue to the small town of Baker about 60 miles further. Here we leave I-15 and head north on SR 127 in the direction of Shoshone, CA and Death Valley N

Visitors to Central Europe usually focus on the "Grand Three" Imperial Cities Vienna, Budapest and Prague and hardly visit places outside of the capital cities. In the case of Hungary, tourists may go on a day trip to Szentendre, Visegrad and Esztergom along the Danube Bend, but few tend to venture further afield. Yet Hungary has many more highlights to offer, including the European City of Culture for 2010, PECS, in the Southwest or the many resorts and thermal spas around Lake Balaton. Further East and Southeast of Budapest, the Hungarian Puszta beckons with stereotypical images of horsemen, dusty farms and tasty Hungarian goulash. The town of Eger, about 1.5 hours East of Budapest, may not quite as easily be grasped by cultural stereotypes, yet offers one of the most scenic pedestrianized inner cities in Central Europe. Eger also marks as the gateway to both the Eger Winemaking Region and the scenically appealing Bükk and Mátra Mountains. For that reason, this quaint town

The interior of Alicante Province offers a plethora of activities away from the crowds - and especially numerous spectacular hiking routes to discover. Following our recent scenic hike along the Xorret de Catí, we decided to seek even more solitude and head yet further inland, about 1 hour north of Alicante Capital. Here, just outside the northern Alicantino town of Alcoy, a true hiking paradise beckons - and entirely devoid of crowds. The Sierra de Mariola, this high range of Mountains in the North of the Province is known as, offers a huge variety of hiking trails ranging in length from 1.5 to 6 hours. We opted for a medium-range circular hike of about 3 hours using the small community of AGRES as our base. Even a 3-hour hiking route means leaving Alicante Capital rather early to take advantage of the morning hours. In summer time, it is also recommended to opt for a cooler overcast day, as otherwise the hike would become too strenous due to the heat. We initially travel north on t

When last spring the LA times published an article in its travel section on the Mojave Desert, one of our all-time favorite Treasures-off-the-beaten-track destinations, we became a bit uneasy, fearing it could spoil its status as a well-kept secret. The article, published on-line also at http://articles.latimes.com/2010/mar/14/travel/la-tr-tecopa-20100314, even covers some of our favorite destinations, China Ranch and Tecopa Hot Springs, a mere 75 minute drive from Las Vegas. Fortunately, our fears never materialized and these gems of the Mojave Desert remain untouched by crowds and perfect spots to escape civilization for a day or two. They have changed over the years, however, but the wide open desert landscape near the California-Nevada border still remains as spectacular as ever. We first discovered Tecopa Hot Springs over a decade ago - and back then, it was managed by Inyo County California, free-of-charge and open 24hours. What a true delight it was to escape the nightlife and

As the third largest island in the Mediterranean, Cyprus offers visitors great diversity in both its scenery and climate. So when the scorching summer heat becomes too unbearable along the coast, and the pool-beach routine turns too monotonous, the island's interior beckons and makes for a great escape away from the crowds and the heat. The Troodos mountain range ranks among the island's most magnificent and as such marks a perfect Treasures-off-the-beaten-track destination for visitors. Again, a rental car is the most convenient way to explore the mountains, leaving the Larnaca-Nikosia motorway just South of STROVOLOS and taking Highway B9 towards Troodos. Soon upon leaving the Southern outskirts of Nicosia, we begin straddling the border to Northern Cyprus and then the scenery gradually changes, as the highway first turns south and gradually meanders uphill. Shrubs and flowers abound, soon giving way to pine trees, increasing in size and lushness with every turn. Our base f

Most visitors to Cyprus will stay in the tourist centers in the Greek South - particularly in the area around Agia Napa, where the nicest beaches and "newest infrastructure" may be found. Some also head to Northern Cyprus as part of a package deal vacation, but predominantly stay in the attractive resort and port town of Kyrenia (Girne) in the North. Those that go on their own to explore the North are still quite rare - and it takes some courage and leap of faith, as heading across the "Green Line" into the so-called "Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus" truly is like stepping into a different world. This "country", only recognized as such by Turkey and otherwise still waiting for the diplomatic limbo to be settled, runs lightyears behind the overdeveloped south - and that is good news. For a real taste of Cyprus, the North is by far more authentic and genuine - and the hospitable nature of the Turkish Cypriots is legendary. However, it is a true