Crimean Adventures I: Bakhchisaray and the Palace of the Khans
Ever since January, 2007 visitors from Schengen EU countries and North America no longer require visas to travel to Ukraine. This minor administrative detail has made travel to this part of the world so much more attractive, as adventures to Ukraine no longer imply bureaucratic hurdles as they are still associated with most successor countries of what was once the Soviet Union. And for most of us well-traveled souls, any visit to Ukraine still evokes a touch of the exotic and would thus rank high on our list of destinations to see as Treasures off the Beaten Track. And with Wizzair now serving the Kiev to Simferopol route, travel to beautiful Crimea has become both affordable and easy. For that reason, we would like to focus on the Crimean Peninsula and its highlights, starting with a truly exotic and hidden gem - the Palace of the Khans in the small town of Bakhchiseray.
As soon as you land in Simferopol airport, you can sense that this is an area still waiting for its peak to come in the future. It is a small rather primitive airport building with very little touristic infrastructure around. Simferopol itself, despite its population of 400 000 and role as capital of the Autonomous Republic of Crimea, has little of redeeming value to offer to visitors. Most buildings date from the 1950s and 60s, as the city was heavily destroyed in both the Crimean War (1853-56) and then again during World War II. It serves as the main transportation hub for the entire Crimean Peninsula for both air and rail. Nonetheless, it is interesting to see the rows of pre-fabricated apartment blocks from Communist times giving way to arid yet green rolling hills in what feels like a Mediterranean climate - so different from other parts of Ukraine. In addition, Crimea feels markedly more Russian than Ukrainian, as 90% of the population speaks Russian here and further down in Sevastopol we still find the Russian Black Sea Fleet today. When, during communist rule the borders were drawn for the republics of the former Soviet Union, no-one ever thought that Ukraine might go its separate way, leaving administrators today in a a quandary as to what should be done about predominantly Russian-speaking areas of Ukraine. These regions are still in a linguistic, cultural and administrative limbo and only time will tell how they may eventually find their true identity.
Whereas most of Crimea's recent history is related to World War II and the Crimean War, there can hardly be a more exotic introduction to the area than visiting the small town of Bakhchisaray with its famous Palace of the Khans. The Crimean Khanate (1441-1783), an extension of the Ottoman Empire and home to the Crimean Tartars, found its peak in what is nowadays a neglected small town of 25 000 half way between Simferopol and Sevastopol on Highway 06. The road conditions become dismal for tour buses as they approach the Khan's Palace on narrow pot-holed streets. The area radiates an air of touristic activity, but in rather subtle, primitive and still dignified dimensions.
The Khan's Palace itself is among the most important monuments still in existence in Crimea today. Upon crossing the small bridge over the Churiuk-Su and passing the main entrance gate we find ourselves in the main courtyard dominated by the Great Khan Dzhami Mosque, the predominant religious building on the Peninsula rebuilt after a huge fire in 1736. Adjacent to the mosque lies the Khan's cemetery where all the rulers of the Crimean Khanate from 16th to the 18th century are buried. The main building complex encompasses the beautiful summer residence, a true highlight, and the harem along with smaller mosques and gardens, adds an air of serenity, peace and harmony to the area.
According to legend, the origins of Bakhchisaray may be traced back to the son of Khan Mengi Giray who once upon successful completion of a hunting day, sat by the embankment of the Churiuk-Su and watched two snakes in battle, feeling empathy and sadness for the defeated snake, trying to escape from the other in agony. Mengi Giray's son felt the injured snake was an allegory of his family's weakened, defeated and humiliated position in Crimea, but as the snake reached the water, its wounds disappeared and once healed it thrusted forward with renewed strength. When Khan Mengi Giray was told about the snake by his son, he also received news that his army had successfully defeated Khan Ahmed, and it was seen as a symbol to build the beautiful Palace of the Khans at the very location where the snakes were seen in battle. The location of Bakchiseray is magnificent within a gorge of the Churiuk-su valley at an altitude of 150-350 meters and surrounding peaks reaching 600 meters. Climatically the region is equally blessed with the mild humid coastal conditions, the coast is 15 miles away, mixing with the drier weather of the high plains.
Following our visit to the Khan's Palace, we settle for an authentic Tartar lunch in a nearby restaurant. There are several to choose from in Bahchiserai, but our favorite is Caravan-Saray "Salachyk " beautifully set against dramatic rock formations of the Churiuk-su valley with sheltered outside pagodas and authentic Tartar music. As we savor Tartar specialties and sip local tea in such a unique setting, we feel far removed from civilization and as if part of our own 1001 night farytale
As soon as you land in Simferopol airport, you can sense that this is an area still waiting for its peak to come in the future. It is a small rather primitive airport building with very little touristic infrastructure around. Simferopol itself, despite its population of 400 000 and role as capital of the Autonomous Republic of Crimea, has little of redeeming value to offer to visitors. Most buildings date from the 1950s and 60s, as the city was heavily destroyed in both the Crimean War (1853-56) and then again during World War II. It serves as the main transportation hub for the entire Crimean Peninsula for both air and rail. Nonetheless, it is interesting to see the rows of pre-fabricated apartment blocks from Communist times giving way to arid yet green rolling hills in what feels like a Mediterranean climate - so different from other parts of Ukraine. In addition, Crimea feels markedly more Russian than Ukrainian, as 90% of the population speaks Russian here and further down in Sevastopol we still find the Russian Black Sea Fleet today. When, during communist rule the borders were drawn for the republics of the former Soviet Union, no-one ever thought that Ukraine might go its separate way, leaving administrators today in a a quandary as to what should be done about predominantly Russian-speaking areas of Ukraine. These regions are still in a linguistic, cultural and administrative limbo and only time will tell how they may eventually find their true identity.
Whereas most of Crimea's recent history is related to World War II and the Crimean War, there can hardly be a more exotic introduction to the area than visiting the small town of Bakhchisaray with its famous Palace of the Khans. The Crimean Khanate (1441-1783), an extension of the Ottoman Empire and home to the Crimean Tartars, found its peak in what is nowadays a neglected small town of 25 000 half way between Simferopol and Sevastopol on Highway 06. The road conditions become dismal for tour buses as they approach the Khan's Palace on narrow pot-holed streets. The area radiates an air of touristic activity, but in rather subtle, primitive and still dignified dimensions.
The Khan's Palace itself is among the most important monuments still in existence in Crimea today. Upon crossing the small bridge over the Churiuk-Su and passing the main entrance gate we find ourselves in the main courtyard dominated by the Great Khan Dzhami Mosque, the predominant religious building on the Peninsula rebuilt after a huge fire in 1736. Adjacent to the mosque lies the Khan's cemetery where all the rulers of the Crimean Khanate from 16th to the 18th century are buried. The main building complex encompasses the beautiful summer residence, a true highlight, and the harem along with smaller mosques and gardens, adds an air of serenity, peace and harmony to the area.
According to legend, the origins of Bakhchisaray may be traced back to the son of Khan Mengi Giray who once upon successful completion of a hunting day, sat by the embankment of the Churiuk-Su and watched two snakes in battle, feeling empathy and sadness for the defeated snake, trying to escape from the other in agony. Mengi Giray's son felt the injured snake was an allegory of his family's weakened, defeated and humiliated position in Crimea, but as the snake reached the water, its wounds disappeared and once healed it thrusted forward with renewed strength. When Khan Mengi Giray was told about the snake by his son, he also received news that his army had successfully defeated Khan Ahmed, and it was seen as a symbol to build the beautiful Palace of the Khans at the very location where the snakes were seen in battle. The location of Bakchiseray is magnificent within a gorge of the Churiuk-su valley at an altitude of 150-350 meters and surrounding peaks reaching 600 meters. Climatically the region is equally blessed with the mild humid coastal conditions, the coast is 15 miles away, mixing with the drier weather of the high plains.
Following our visit to the Khan's Palace, we settle for an authentic Tartar lunch in a nearby restaurant. There are several to choose from in Bahchiserai, but our favorite is Caravan-Saray "Salachyk " beautifully set against dramatic rock formations of the Churiuk-su valley with sheltered outside pagodas and authentic Tartar music. As we savor Tartar specialties and sip local tea in such a unique setting, we feel far removed from civilization and as if part of our own 1001 night farytale
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