Hiking Delight and Hot Springs in Baja California

Things in Los Cabos have certainly changed in recent years. The infrastructure is much better, roads are nicely maintained, new business venues have opened, and Puerto Paraiso Mall has higher occupancy than just a few years ago. Yet the downside to all this urban growth and overdeveloment can also be felt - with every visit, MEDANO beach with its adjacent hotels increasingly looks like Benidorm, and remote, isolated spots are harder to find between San Lucas and San Jose.

Outside the developed areas around the Cape, however, true unspoilt nature can still be discovered, and the next signs of civilization lie hundreds of miles away - so far in fact, Los Cabos feels distinctly more insular than peninsular, as every time a true change of venue is called for, riding a plane up to Los Angeles or into Guadalajara or Mexico DF becomes a necessity.

For those of us lovers of treasures away from the crowds, this geographical set-up, however, offers several wonderful escape options for a day or two or more away from the Spring Break party crowd descending onto the SQUID ROE or other party venues in San Lucas. Among those options, one of our favorite getaways are the nearby mountains to the East/Northeast, a short 90-minute drive from San Lucas. Along the way, a stop in central San Jose Cabo certainly beckons too - so much quieter and relaxed than its party brother San Lucas to the West. The nicely maintained colonial inner city invites for nice strolls with galleries, shops and cafes - certainly worth an hour or two in either direction heading to or from more remote locations along the East Cape.

Shortly after leaving behind San Jose cabo and Los Cabos International Airport, the scenery changes and becomes greener, lusher and the altitude higher.  Along Highway MEX 1, we pass the Tropic of Cancer, and a turn-off to the little community of Agua Caliente, indicating already that here nearby there are thermal springs and water sources. We then leave the main highway, however, and enter a small road to the village of SANTIAGO - a gem of a small community surrounded by desert and slopes with shrubs of the nearby LAGUNA DE LA SIERRA mountains.

The village is a perfect place to stop for gas, bathrooms and a bite to eat - or to buy water and snacks for the short continuing journey onto less comfortable roads. A visit to the beautiful church is also worthwhile - giving proof to the area's proud and rich colonial past. Despite ravages by nature, fire and hurricanes, Santiago has emerged well-preserved and mostly unscathed.

The village also boasts the only zoo in all of Baja California Sur - a delight for the senses, with rare species of snakes, birds and mammals. The Santiago Zoo is also the gateway to the Laguna de la Sierra mountains, as the paved highway ends and mostly unpaved and poorly maintained dirt roads continue into the lower elevations of the mountains. Most rental cars could still manage the first sections, but 4-wheel drive vehicles are certainly recommended for further portions of the unmaintained road towards Santa Rita and its famous hot springs.

The lush and dense vegetation not only indicates higher altitude, but also the immediate proximity of water - parking the vehicle along the lower slopes then allows us to hike further and further up into the lushness of the LAGUNA DE LA SIERRA mountains and to relax then in the hot springs at various points along  the way. These springs bring us right back to nature - they are not official pools but rather openings, natural ponds with differently tempered waters, and fed by various streams of springs. And as we immerse ourselves into the hot springs waters in the East Cape mountains, we forget for just a moment or two or longer, that less than two hours away from there, Spring break college crowds are out to drink, dance and party in the center and along the Medano beach of Cabo San Lucas.

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