Bulgarian Discoveries IV: Folkloric Traditions in Erketch
No visit to Bulgaria is ever complete without witnessing a traditional Folkore evening with local food, costumes, dance and customs. Most ethnographers and alternative world travellers would cringe at the thought of a Folklore Dinner, but as so many things in life, it all depends on WHERE and HOW it is done. For that reason, our fourth and last contribution on Bulgaria leads us to the remote mountain village of ERKETCH, nowadays called KOZICHINO, abour 30 minutes West of Nessebar/Sunny Beach, where such authentic Folkore traditions are still alive today.
Most organized Folkore evenings begin with a visit to a genuine Bulgarian farm house in the countryside, and such visits allow guests a worthwhile glimpse into the real daily life of rural Bulgarians. Many dwellers in remote areas of Bulgaria are striving towards self-sufficiency, planting their own fruit and vegetables, as well as keeping their own lifestock for dairy products and meat consumption. Most old farmhouses still lack modern-day installations, and locals still use an OUTHOUSE as a bathroom, albeit modernized with plumbing and running water. The farm visit may also include a display of common harvesting equipment, including wheat threshers and other machinery used in agriculture. Everywhere we witness lifestock running freely and wildly in the countryside and inside the villages. Not seldom do cars need to stop for indefinite periods in front of a huge herd of sheep blocking the roadways.
Upon arrival at the Folkore venue, guests are greeted the traditional Bulgarian way with Bagpipe Music, home-made bread and a shot of RAKIA, the local brandy. Bulgaria along with Scotland and the Basque Region ranks as only the third country featuring the bagpipe as its traditional instrument, although here in the Balkans the bagpipe sounds are quite different from the Scottish Highlands. Their tune is eerier, irregular and more amelodic, more reminiscent of snake charmers with a touch of the surreal.
Menu-wise the Folklore Dinner consists of traditional Bulgarian CHOPSKA salad (cucumbers and tomatoes topped with feta cheese) followed by stew-like vegetable soup, a meat dish (usually pork or chicken) with condiments as a main course, as well as local deserts such as sweet BAKLAVA cake. The meal is accompanied by limitless local Bulgarian wine both red and white. Not far from Erketch, further below in the plains, we find the famous KARNOBAT wine growing region of Bulgaria, and many wines served here for meals hail from this prosperous viticultural area.
Eerie tunes resume for the actual Folklore performance featuring both male and female dancers dressed in local costumes. Their dance is cheerful, upbeat and invigorating, while the music is strangely exotic, eery and surreal including more amelodic passages typical of the Shaman traditions in this remote part of Europe. The true highlight, however, is the nightly display of the NESTINARI, the so-called fire dancers, walking barefoot over hot charcoals spread from an outdoor fire across a small square. The tradition is equally associated with Shamanism in Bulgaria and since Orthodox Christianity came to the Balkans in the 9th century, has been adapted to feature the fire dancer carry across over the fire during his performance. Accompanied by more eery bagpipe music, the NESTINARI performance is a stark reminder of the very exoticism of local traditions, beliefs and customs, and a worthwhile local introduction to Bulgarian Culture for both mainstream and alternative visitors alike.
Most organized Folkore evenings begin with a visit to a genuine Bulgarian farm house in the countryside, and such visits allow guests a worthwhile glimpse into the real daily life of rural Bulgarians. Many dwellers in remote areas of Bulgaria are striving towards self-sufficiency, planting their own fruit and vegetables, as well as keeping their own lifestock for dairy products and meat consumption. Most old farmhouses still lack modern-day installations, and locals still use an OUTHOUSE as a bathroom, albeit modernized with plumbing and running water. The farm visit may also include a display of common harvesting equipment, including wheat threshers and other machinery used in agriculture. Everywhere we witness lifestock running freely and wildly in the countryside and inside the villages. Not seldom do cars need to stop for indefinite periods in front of a huge herd of sheep blocking the roadways.
Upon arrival at the Folkore venue, guests are greeted the traditional Bulgarian way with Bagpipe Music, home-made bread and a shot of RAKIA, the local brandy. Bulgaria along with Scotland and the Basque Region ranks as only the third country featuring the bagpipe as its traditional instrument, although here in the Balkans the bagpipe sounds are quite different from the Scottish Highlands. Their tune is eerier, irregular and more amelodic, more reminiscent of snake charmers with a touch of the surreal.
Menu-wise the Folklore Dinner consists of traditional Bulgarian CHOPSKA salad (cucumbers and tomatoes topped with feta cheese) followed by stew-like vegetable soup, a meat dish (usually pork or chicken) with condiments as a main course, as well as local deserts such as sweet BAKLAVA cake. The meal is accompanied by limitless local Bulgarian wine both red and white. Not far from Erketch, further below in the plains, we find the famous KARNOBAT wine growing region of Bulgaria, and many wines served here for meals hail from this prosperous viticultural area.
Eerie tunes resume for the actual Folklore performance featuring both male and female dancers dressed in local costumes. Their dance is cheerful, upbeat and invigorating, while the music is strangely exotic, eery and surreal including more amelodic passages typical of the Shaman traditions in this remote part of Europe. The true highlight, however, is the nightly display of the NESTINARI, the so-called fire dancers, walking barefoot over hot charcoals spread from an outdoor fire across a small square. The tradition is equally associated with Shamanism in Bulgaria and since Orthodox Christianity came to the Balkans in the 9th century, has been adapted to feature the fire dancer carry across over the fire during his performance. Accompanied by more eery bagpipe music, the NESTINARI performance is a stark reminder of the very exoticism of local traditions, beliefs and customs, and a worthwhile local introduction to Bulgarian Culture for both mainstream and alternative visitors alike.
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