Exploring Cyprus II: Karpaz Adventures & the North
Most visitors to Cyprus will stay in the tourist centers in the Greek South - particularly in the area around Agia Napa, where the nicest beaches and "newest infrastructure" may be found. Some also head to Northern Cyprus as part of a package deal vacation, but predominantly stay in the attractive resort and port town of Kyrenia (Girne) in the North. Those that go on their own to explore the North are still quite rare - and it takes some courage and leap of faith, as heading across the "Green Line" into the so-called "Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus" truly is like stepping into a different world. This "country", only recognized as such by Turkey and otherwise still waiting for the diplomatic limbo to be settled, runs lightyears behind the overdeveloped south - and that is good news. For a real taste of Cyprus, the North is by far more authentic and genuine - and the hospitable nature of the Turkish Cypriots is legendary. However, it is a true mystery to most how for so long - and we are talking decades- this "country" has been able to run on moderate amount of tourism and otherwise a mix of gambling and prostitution. Somehow things move forward, but how they do, and what elements of other societies are attracted by this mix, that is a different and truly mysterious matter.
Taking a southern rental car to the North involves considerable risk - as officially it is certainly discouraged. An extra insurance must be purchased at the border, but it only covers Third Party insurance and NOT your own vehicle - add to this, that drivers in Northern Cyprus are even MORE reckless and incompetent than their cousins in the South (accident and roadside fatality statistics in Northern Cyprus are appalling and among the very highest in Europe) - and it becomes a scary and potentially costly undertaking. Fortunately, I never had problems, but did see my blood pressure rise every 10-15 minutes or so, just witnessing how Cypriots around me in the North tend to drive.
Crossing the Green Line in Nicosia is already a highly interesting and culturally enriching endeavour - the Turkish side of Nicosia is just so much quieter, laid back and quainter than its noisy modern neighbor to the South. Strolling around the alleyways and squares and stopping by Mosques or dining at some of the wonderful and comparatively inexpensive restaurants around central Nicosia already sets the stage nicely for the overall stay there. Then the drive to Kyrenia is magnificent, as we descend from the mountains towards to North Coast of Cyprus overlooking the entire coastline and enjoying the panorama of Kyrenia (Girne, in Turkish) ahead of us. The city itself is equally charming due to its spectacular setting and untouched old quarter. Tourists do abound here, but it is all dignified, low-key and very mellow. The vices of Northern Cypriot economic practices can only be seen by small neon signs on the main highways advertising casinos, brothels or both - and by the unusual high number of attractive but poor Anatolian boys running around Girne harbor.
It is highly recommended to leave the tourist area around Kyrenia, however, and to explore a truly remote part of the Island - the fantastic KARPAZ peninsula, jotting out far to the North East - almost reaching Lebanon on the map. The easiest route is via Nicosia and then heading East to Famagusta - the gateway to Karpaz and a town at the very center of the Cypriot Conflict, as it used to be predominantly Greek and many were killed or had to flee South at the height of the 1970s confrontation. Nowadays a sleepy seaside community of about 30 000, it sees some newer development, but is still a true world away from the South. Driving along Famagusta Bay towards Bogaz, the scenery then changes dramatically, as the narrow highway winds further up the peninsula along small forest areas, shrubs, coves and beaches. As the Karpaz peninsula becomes narrower, sea appears on both sides, making for spectacular scenery and a true sense of space.
Once past the small community of Dikarpaz, housing developments become almost non-existent and the true wild Northeast of Cyprus beckons, as views suddently open up over the magnificent Golden Beach. Often subject to strong winds and high surf, this counts among the last few wilderness areas in the Eastern Med and attracts surprisingly few visitors. Except for an occasional rental car, true solitude can be found here, with long walks along the shoreline and optimum sunshine hours, as the long stretch of beach faces mostly South. Here at the very tip of the Karpaz Peninsula, we also find the Karpaz National Park with herds of wild donkeys roaming the cliffs and often blocking the small highway. And at the very tip, the magnificent yet isolated Apostolos Andreas Greek Orthodox Monastery and chapel beckons - a humbling, spriritual and uplifting experience - allowing us to truly find ourselves and our inner center here at one of the very most remote tips of Europe.
Taking a southern rental car to the North involves considerable risk - as officially it is certainly discouraged. An extra insurance must be purchased at the border, but it only covers Third Party insurance and NOT your own vehicle - add to this, that drivers in Northern Cyprus are even MORE reckless and incompetent than their cousins in the South (accident and roadside fatality statistics in Northern Cyprus are appalling and among the very highest in Europe) - and it becomes a scary and potentially costly undertaking. Fortunately, I never had problems, but did see my blood pressure rise every 10-15 minutes or so, just witnessing how Cypriots around me in the North tend to drive.
Crossing the Green Line in Nicosia is already a highly interesting and culturally enriching endeavour - the Turkish side of Nicosia is just so much quieter, laid back and quainter than its noisy modern neighbor to the South. Strolling around the alleyways and squares and stopping by Mosques or dining at some of the wonderful and comparatively inexpensive restaurants around central Nicosia already sets the stage nicely for the overall stay there. Then the drive to Kyrenia is magnificent, as we descend from the mountains towards to North Coast of Cyprus overlooking the entire coastline and enjoying the panorama of Kyrenia (Girne, in Turkish) ahead of us. The city itself is equally charming due to its spectacular setting and untouched old quarter. Tourists do abound here, but it is all dignified, low-key and very mellow. The vices of Northern Cypriot economic practices can only be seen by small neon signs on the main highways advertising casinos, brothels or both - and by the unusual high number of attractive but poor Anatolian boys running around Girne harbor.
It is highly recommended to leave the tourist area around Kyrenia, however, and to explore a truly remote part of the Island - the fantastic KARPAZ peninsula, jotting out far to the North East - almost reaching Lebanon on the map. The easiest route is via Nicosia and then heading East to Famagusta - the gateway to Karpaz and a town at the very center of the Cypriot Conflict, as it used to be predominantly Greek and many were killed or had to flee South at the height of the 1970s confrontation. Nowadays a sleepy seaside community of about 30 000, it sees some newer development, but is still a true world away from the South. Driving along Famagusta Bay towards Bogaz, the scenery then changes dramatically, as the narrow highway winds further up the peninsula along small forest areas, shrubs, coves and beaches. As the Karpaz peninsula becomes narrower, sea appears on both sides, making for spectacular scenery and a true sense of space.
Once past the small community of Dikarpaz, housing developments become almost non-existent and the true wild Northeast of Cyprus beckons, as views suddently open up over the magnificent Golden Beach. Often subject to strong winds and high surf, this counts among the last few wilderness areas in the Eastern Med and attracts surprisingly few visitors. Except for an occasional rental car, true solitude can be found here, with long walks along the shoreline and optimum sunshine hours, as the long stretch of beach faces mostly South. Here at the very tip of the Karpaz Peninsula, we also find the Karpaz National Park with herds of wild donkeys roaming the cliffs and often blocking the small highway. And at the very tip, the magnificent yet isolated Apostolos Andreas Greek Orthodox Monastery and chapel beckons - a humbling, spriritual and uplifting experience - allowing us to truly find ourselves and our inner center here at one of the very most remote tips of Europe.
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