Savoring Moravian delights in Olomouc
Most locals in the Southeastern Czech Republic would agree that BRNO may be the administrative capital of Moravia, but the spirit and soul of the region may be found in Olomouc. University town and UNESCO world heritage site, this city of 100 000 has many a hidden gem and surprise in store for visitors. On previous occasions, I have had guests from abroad inquire immediately into the cost of living in Olomouc, as they had instantly fallen in love with the city and were looking into retirement there. And the lack of tourists makes the charms of Olomouc even more appealing, turning the town into a well-kept secret for those visitors brave enough to venture further afield in Czech lands than Prague or Cesky Krumlov.
Driving to Olomouc is easy, with the city located roughly half way on the Krakow to Prague route. It thus lends itself for a perfect stopover and may be discovered in as little as a few hours, with most sights conveniently located inside the pedestrianized old town. Approaching the city center from the ring road along TR. SVOBODY, we first stroll towards DOLNI NAMESTI - the lower square, featuring a magnificent MARIAN statue common in this part of Central Europe to commemorate the end of the Black Plague in the 17th century. The MARIANSKY column is flanked on both sides by beautiful fountains, the NEPTUNE and JUPITER fountains respectively. Unlike many other cities in the region, Olomouc authorities decided to preserve their wealth of water fountains, many dating back as early as the 18th century, and to even build new ones, which no longer serve the original purpose of water supply to the town, but help to enhance the overall architectural beauty and cityscape of this Moravian gem.
Dolni Namesti and the Marian column, however, are only a taste of what is yet to come, the true highlight of Olomouc - the famous UNESCO world heritage site of the HOLY TRINITY COLUMN located in the very heart of the UPPER SQUARE, HORNY Namesti adjacent to the magnificent town hall, originally from the 14th century and rebuilt in Baroque style in the early 17th century. The Trinity Column is hard to miss at a height of 35m and lavishly decorated with gold leaf and figures of saints and apostles. The base is so big that it houses a small chapel, which may be visited with a guide from the nearby Tourist Information. Another eyecatcher on the square is the Town Hall with the Astronomical Clock, vaguely reminiscent of the one in Prague, but rebuilt in socialist-realist style in the 1950s, when many religious references were removed. Every day at noon the roughly 7 minute performance of the Astronomical Clock may be witnessed on the front side of the Town Hall and includes a procession of proletariate figures accompanied by Czech folk tunes. HORNY NAMESTI also features 3 of the total of 6 fountains in town, i.e., the HERCULES, CAESAR and ARION fountains, with the latter being the most recent dating back to 2002.
Throughout history, Olomouc has played many an important role within the Hapsburg Empire. It was here at the Archbishop´s Palace, for instance, where Emperor FRANZ JOSEF ascended to the throne in the revolutionary year 1848. Much earlier during the reign of the Primislid Dynasty, it was in Olomouc that "Good King Wenceslav" was murdered on the site of the old castle in the year 1306. Other notable personalities associated with Olomouc include famous Austrian General and Field Marshall Joseph Radetzky, who was nominated commander of Olomouc Fortress in 1829. And more recently in 1995, Pope John Paul II equally paid a visit to Olomouc holding mass at the Cathedral, where Jan Sarkander was declared a Saint, and visiting the nearby Church of the Holy Hill. Following a day or two in this gem of a Moravian city, we thus leave with the impression of having witnessed another true treasure off the beaten track destination and look forward to another visit soon in order to savor true Moravian hospitality.
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