Black Sea Discoveries I: The Urban Charms of Varna
When it comes to European Travel Destinations, Bulgaria still ranks among the more exotic destinations. In part due to its geopolitical location and post-communist legacy, this Balkan gem has had an ambiguous relationship to modern-day tourism, which in part helps to explain its outsider status. Once in the country, however, differences abound between heavily developed tourist resorts and untouched authentic infrastructure (or lack thereof). Although Bulgaria was able to join the European Union in 2007, the country is still a far cry away from Western European economic development and thus lacks a modern transportation network and other Western ammenities. It is precisely its lack of cohesive development and the contrast between modern "private investment" on the one hand and public neglect on the other, that makes for Bulgaria's greatest charm and attraction.
Among all the destinations in Bulgaria, Varna ranks high on the list of most visitors. Dubbed by many as Bulgaria's inofficial summer capital, the country's third largest city (population 380 000) boasts beautiful coastline, favorable weather and an attractive inner city. According to recent polls, most Bulgarians would prefer to live in Varna, while other statistics show that the highest quality of life in Bulgaria can be found here in the old "Odessos" (its original Greek name) on the Black Sea Coast. During the peak of summer, it may be recommended to avoid Varna altogether, as half of Bulgaria seems to descend on the nearby Black Sea shore, but in late spring and early fall, the city reveals its true charm combining urban elements of both a local administrative center and a popular tourist resort.
A few days would be advisable as a minimum for a stay to savor the true spirit of Bulgaria's favorite city, with many decent inexpensive hotels beckoning tourists in and around the central city. Here first and foremost the magnificent Orthodox Cathedral stands out - a landmark of Bulgarian Revival architecture following the end of Ottoman rule in the 19th century. Officially inaugurated in 1886, the "Dormition of the Theotokos Cathedral" ranks among the largest and most famous Orthodox Cathedrals in Eastern Europe and was built within only 6 years (1880-1886). Beautifully illuminated at night, it is an immediate eye-catcher and among the city's most famous landmarks. It also marks the beginning of Varna's attractive pedestrian area, which radiates along an axis of two parallel sea-bound streets connected horizontally in the center.
Nothing more charming than to set out on a stroll down Varna's pedestrian zone with the Cathedral as our point of departure. As we pass the city's central court house on the left and main theater on the right, we then reach Bulgaria's answer to TGI Fridays, the popular restaurant chain HAPPY. It was founded here on the Black Sea in the 1990s (http://www.happy.bg/en/home.html) and still ranks high as the perfect hang-out for a light meal and fabulous people watching. Continuing along the principal horizontal side street, we pass many attractive local shops, cafes and restaurants before reaching the second pedestrian main street right at the communist-era highrise of the CHERNO MORE hotel, an unlikely landmark of sorts, but still highly popular for overnight accomodation due to its central city location. Turning right, we then follow the pedestrian street as far as the sea shore and the famous PRIMORSKI PARK - Varna's world-famous sea garden.
Continuing towards the shore itself, we find Varna's slightly neglected city beach, a hodgepodge of privately developed and leased beach-front cabins and businesses on the one hand and dilapidated neglected public infrastructure on the other hand. Stunningly beautiful nonetheless, it is only at second glance that these differences become obvious to outside observers and makes visitors wonder how beautiful this city and, in fact, the entire country could truly be and become if it were to release its true potential and shake off its post-communist and corruption-era mismanagement.
The same holds true to the sea garden, PRIMORSKI PARK, where just a tad more landscaping and public care could increase its wellness factor considerably. It nonetheless surprises visitors as a wonderful park area between the sea and the inner city, a welcome escape and refuge for Varna's many summer visitors and city-weary locals. Wandering through the park during daytime, we see families, open-air concerts and dance performances, lovers looking for privacy and joggers running along its many trails. Again, a perfect venue for people watching and soul searching, it breathes the spirit of the Black Sea and radiates the very essence of Varna's maritime charm.
Heading back up the pedestrian street away from the sea, in the direction of Varna's world-famous Archeological Museum, we decide to turn right and head to Bulgaria's other restaurant chain success story - Godzila (http://www.godzila.bg/site1024_en.html) for a great evening bite and to mingle further with the city's friendly young and dynamic locals. Nothing better than to toast with friends old and new to Bulgaria's favorite city - with a glass or two of Rakia, the local brandy - NAZDRAVE to the new, up and coming Bulgaria!
Among all the destinations in Bulgaria, Varna ranks high on the list of most visitors. Dubbed by many as Bulgaria's inofficial summer capital, the country's third largest city (population 380 000) boasts beautiful coastline, favorable weather and an attractive inner city. According to recent polls, most Bulgarians would prefer to live in Varna, while other statistics show that the highest quality of life in Bulgaria can be found here in the old "Odessos" (its original Greek name) on the Black Sea Coast. During the peak of summer, it may be recommended to avoid Varna altogether, as half of Bulgaria seems to descend on the nearby Black Sea shore, but in late spring and early fall, the city reveals its true charm combining urban elements of both a local administrative center and a popular tourist resort.
A few days would be advisable as a minimum for a stay to savor the true spirit of Bulgaria's favorite city, with many decent inexpensive hotels beckoning tourists in and around the central city. Here first and foremost the magnificent Orthodox Cathedral stands out - a landmark of Bulgarian Revival architecture following the end of Ottoman rule in the 19th century. Officially inaugurated in 1886, the "Dormition of the Theotokos Cathedral" ranks among the largest and most famous Orthodox Cathedrals in Eastern Europe and was built within only 6 years (1880-1886). Beautifully illuminated at night, it is an immediate eye-catcher and among the city's most famous landmarks. It also marks the beginning of Varna's attractive pedestrian area, which radiates along an axis of two parallel sea-bound streets connected horizontally in the center.
Nothing more charming than to set out on a stroll down Varna's pedestrian zone with the Cathedral as our point of departure. As we pass the city's central court house on the left and main theater on the right, we then reach Bulgaria's answer to TGI Fridays, the popular restaurant chain HAPPY. It was founded here on the Black Sea in the 1990s (http://www.happy.bg/en/home.html) and still ranks high as the perfect hang-out for a light meal and fabulous people watching. Continuing along the principal horizontal side street, we pass many attractive local shops, cafes and restaurants before reaching the second pedestrian main street right at the communist-era highrise of the CHERNO MORE hotel, an unlikely landmark of sorts, but still highly popular for overnight accomodation due to its central city location. Turning right, we then follow the pedestrian street as far as the sea shore and the famous PRIMORSKI PARK - Varna's world-famous sea garden.
Continuing towards the shore itself, we find Varna's slightly neglected city beach, a hodgepodge of privately developed and leased beach-front cabins and businesses on the one hand and dilapidated neglected public infrastructure on the other hand. Stunningly beautiful nonetheless, it is only at second glance that these differences become obvious to outside observers and makes visitors wonder how beautiful this city and, in fact, the entire country could truly be and become if it were to release its true potential and shake off its post-communist and corruption-era mismanagement.
The same holds true to the sea garden, PRIMORSKI PARK, where just a tad more landscaping and public care could increase its wellness factor considerably. It nonetheless surprises visitors as a wonderful park area between the sea and the inner city, a welcome escape and refuge for Varna's many summer visitors and city-weary locals. Wandering through the park during daytime, we see families, open-air concerts and dance performances, lovers looking for privacy and joggers running along its many trails. Again, a perfect venue for people watching and soul searching, it breathes the spirit of the Black Sea and radiates the very essence of Varna's maritime charm.
Heading back up the pedestrian street away from the sea, in the direction of Varna's world-famous Archeological Museum, we decide to turn right and head to Bulgaria's other restaurant chain success story - Godzila (http://www.godzila.bg/site1024_en.html) for a great evening bite and to mingle further with the city's friendly young and dynamic locals. Nothing better than to toast with friends old and new to Bulgaria's favorite city - with a glass or two of Rakia, the local brandy - NAZDRAVE to the new, up and coming Bulgaria!
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