Delights in the Desert: China Ranch & Tecopa Hot Springs
When last spring the LA times published an article in its travel section on the Mojave Desert, one of our all-time favorite Treasures-off-the-beaten-track destinations, we became a bit uneasy, fearing it could spoil its status as a well-kept secret. The article, published on-line also at http://articles.latimes.com/2010/mar/14/travel/la-tr-tecopa-20100314, even covers some of our favorite destinations, China Ranch and Tecopa Hot Springs, a mere 75 minute drive from Las Vegas. Fortunately, our fears never materialized and these gems of the Mojave Desert remain untouched by crowds and perfect spots to escape civilization for a day or two. They have changed over the years, however, but the wide open desert landscape near the California-Nevada border still remains as spectacular as ever.
We first discovered Tecopa Hot Springs over a decade ago - and back then, it was managed by Inyo County California, free-of-charge and open 24hours. What a true delight it was to escape the nightlife and neon lights of Las Vegas at 1 or 2 AM to drive to Tecopa and soak in the thermal springs until dawn. The place attracted a vast variety of interesting visitors, including locals from nearby Pahrump, snow-birds and trailer occupants alike. Yet few came from as far as Southern California or Las Vegas to visit. Then things changed when management of the pools was taken over by a private company, first $5 now $7 were charged per person per visit, and opening hours were restricted until 9PM. The layout and cleanliness of the pools has hardly changed since the early days, but they still remain a delightful spa experience in the middle of the Mojave Preserve.
We usually make a full day of it, escaping the suburban sprawl of Las Vegas early in the day, to head on Hwy 160, Blue Diamond Road, southwest into the Spring Mountains. We cross over the mountain range to descend into the Pahrump Valley, "over the hump to Pahrump" as the locals call it, with splendid views of Mt. Charleston and the Spring Mountain National Preserve nearby. About 20 miles outside of Pahrump, we take a left turn to join the "Old Spanish Trail Hwy" to take us into the empty depths of the Mojave Desert. This road connects Hwy 160 to Hwy 127 which runs from Baker, California up towards Death Valley. There is hardly any traffic, except for an occasional camper van or trailer, as the highway first follows a neverending straight line, then veers its way into the mountains with spectacular views of the surrounding desert landscape, then drops back into the Tecopa Valley, where it connects to Hwy 127.
Shortly before reaching Tecopa, an almost deserted desert outpost that would be truly uninhabited if it were not for the thermal springs, we notice a left turn onto FURNACE CREEK ROAD, follow it for about a mile and then turn right at the sign reading "CHINA RANCH", a true hidden surprise in the arid desert. As we proceed on a narrow, uneven road into the mountains, soon the view opens up to a desert mirage, a true oasis filled with date palm trees. China Ranch, a date palm farm hidden in the desert rocks, remains a well-kept secret to locals and visitors alike, offering a charming café with terrace, shop and numerous hiking trails around the date farm premises. We learn lots about the desert flora and fauna here and escape into the remote corners of this unique desert oasis.
Following our desert hike and a taste of date palm bread and coffee, we drive on to Tecopa to truly immerse ourselves in the soft silky thermal waters of its spring. With separate pool areas for men and women, and two differently tempered pools, we bask in the delights of the healthy spring waters and find it hard to stay awake for the 1.5 hour drive back to Las Vegas. Relaxed, content and renewed, we only truly wake up again, as we drive down from Spring Mountain towards the Las Vegas Valley. What seemed like dawn on the horizon before, an aurora with shining lights in midst of the desert night, turned out to be the brilliant Las Vegas skyline. The Stratosphere Tower and the neon beam from the Luxor Hotel & Casino along with all the landmarks of the Las Vegas strip, lay like miniature sights in front of us, as we drive from our desert bliss back into post-modern civilization, culmination of a highlight day in the middle of the Mojave Desert.
We first discovered Tecopa Hot Springs over a decade ago - and back then, it was managed by Inyo County California, free-of-charge and open 24hours. What a true delight it was to escape the nightlife and neon lights of Las Vegas at 1 or 2 AM to drive to Tecopa and soak in the thermal springs until dawn. The place attracted a vast variety of interesting visitors, including locals from nearby Pahrump, snow-birds and trailer occupants alike. Yet few came from as far as Southern California or Las Vegas to visit. Then things changed when management of the pools was taken over by a private company, first $5 now $7 were charged per person per visit, and opening hours were restricted until 9PM. The layout and cleanliness of the pools has hardly changed since the early days, but they still remain a delightful spa experience in the middle of the Mojave Preserve.
We usually make a full day of it, escaping the suburban sprawl of Las Vegas early in the day, to head on Hwy 160, Blue Diamond Road, southwest into the Spring Mountains. We cross over the mountain range to descend into the Pahrump Valley, "over the hump to Pahrump" as the locals call it, with splendid views of Mt. Charleston and the Spring Mountain National Preserve nearby. About 20 miles outside of Pahrump, we take a left turn to join the "Old Spanish Trail Hwy" to take us into the empty depths of the Mojave Desert. This road connects Hwy 160 to Hwy 127 which runs from Baker, California up towards Death Valley. There is hardly any traffic, except for an occasional camper van or trailer, as the highway first follows a neverending straight line, then veers its way into the mountains with spectacular views of the surrounding desert landscape, then drops back into the Tecopa Valley, where it connects to Hwy 127.
Shortly before reaching Tecopa, an almost deserted desert outpost that would be truly uninhabited if it were not for the thermal springs, we notice a left turn onto FURNACE CREEK ROAD, follow it for about a mile and then turn right at the sign reading "CHINA RANCH", a true hidden surprise in the arid desert. As we proceed on a narrow, uneven road into the mountains, soon the view opens up to a desert mirage, a true oasis filled with date palm trees. China Ranch, a date palm farm hidden in the desert rocks, remains a well-kept secret to locals and visitors alike, offering a charming café with terrace, shop and numerous hiking trails around the date farm premises. We learn lots about the desert flora and fauna here and escape into the remote corners of this unique desert oasis.
Following our desert hike and a taste of date palm bread and coffee, we drive on to Tecopa to truly immerse ourselves in the soft silky thermal waters of its spring. With separate pool areas for men and women, and two differently tempered pools, we bask in the delights of the healthy spring waters and find it hard to stay awake for the 1.5 hour drive back to Las Vegas. Relaxed, content and renewed, we only truly wake up again, as we drive down from Spring Mountain towards the Las Vegas Valley. What seemed like dawn on the horizon before, an aurora with shining lights in midst of the desert night, turned out to be the brilliant Las Vegas skyline. The Stratosphere Tower and the neon beam from the Luxor Hotel & Casino along with all the landmarks of the Las Vegas strip, lay like miniature sights in front of us, as we drive from our desert bliss back into post-modern civilization, culmination of a highlight day in the middle of the Mojave Desert.
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