Witches and Freemasons in Beautiful Bamberg

Bamberg in the region of Frankonia in Northern Bavaria is a town full of surprises. Not only architecturally stunning, it also boasts a highly interesting historical legacy and fascinating thematic facets in virtually every corner of its Old Town. Surprisingly, however, most visitors to Bavaria focus on the capital Munich and the Bavarian Alps in the South. Few venture this far north, and if they come to Frankonia, most tourists flock to Rothenburg ob der Tauber, grossly overpopularized by Rick Steves and other travel writers. Bamberg only gets a few river cruise guests sampling the town on a stop-over, but deserves so much more time in its own right. For that reason, this bustling university town of 80 000 makes a perfect Treasures off the Beaten Track destination for us to discover, explore and fall in love with.

So what is so unique about Bamberg? First of all, its scenic location and architecture. Untouched by the ravages of World War II, this town on the quaint Regnitz river boasts a beautiful Old Town and by far Bavaria's most stunning Old Town Hall, originally Gothic from the 15th century but later repainted in stunning baroque design, and located on an island surrounded by two tributaries of the main river. In fact, water is everywhere and Bamberg even features an area of town aptly named LITTLE VENICE with old fishermen houses from the 18th century by the river front and even gondolas taking guests for a ride. Architecturally the city features fine examples of romanesque, gothic, renaissance and baroque styles both in residential houses, palaces and churches. By far the most stunning example of an architectural masterpiece is Bamberg's late romanesque St.Peter and Paul Cathedral with its 4 spires, giving the town the nickname FRANCONIAN ROME and UNESCO World Heritage status since 1993. Inside the cathedral we find the mysterious sculpture of the BAMBERG RIDER, of which no one to this day knows its precise origin, although the most likely hypothesis is that it may represent King Szent Istvan of Hungary.

Right across from the DOM we find Bamberg's New Residence, seat of the Prince Bishops until 1802, with an inner courtyard boasting one of the most beautifully landscaped rose gardens in Europe and offering grand vistas over the entire Old Town. In the same courtyard, a quaint cafe invites us to stop for a coffee and enjoy the peace and quiet along with the magnificent sight of the roses. Yet many further venues in town equally draw our attention for a drink or meal - notably the local SCHLENKERLA brewery specializing in Bamberger Rauchbier - the city's world famous Smoked Beer. As we descend from the Cathedral back into the Old Town along a steep staircase, we find several restaurants, beer halls and gardens serving the popular brew. By far our favorite and most scenic hangout, however, is the Italian gelato cafe BASSANESE on the Upper Bridge right by the Old Town Hall - a perfect spot for people watching and enjoying an espresso or gelato after a long walk around town.

Thematically, Bamberg is equally intriguing, as no other city in Europe offers such a variety of unique trajectories, including its legacy of freemasonry dating back to the 19th century and spreading from here and nearby Bayreuth as far as North America. In addition, Bamberg has a long history of superstition regarding magicians and witchcraft with up to 300 victims that were burnt between 1421 and 1632 as witches or magicians, including a former Lord Mayor. There is even a historic jail called the DRUDENHAUS, where alleged witches and magicians were held captive. Equally intriguing is the city's role as a former independent Diocese in being the second country in the world to recognize U.S. American independence in the 18th century and establishing an American Embassy here. Finally, Bamberg's House of the BABENSBERG was the first to rule Austria for 250 years before the Habsburgs took over in 1276. It is thus not surprising that over 7000 foreign nationals reside here - in view of the city's fascinating history, touch of individuality and spectacular architectural heritage. Bamberg is certainly different - there must be something in the Smoked Beer here!

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