Monastic Retreats and Fairytale Lands
Most visitors to Germany head to three main regions associated with particular stereotypes about German customs and culture. First destination of choice is usually Munich and Southern Bavaria to indulge in beer, Oktoberfest Gemuetlichkeit and to enjoy the castles and scenic beauty of the Bavarian Alps.
A close second is the Southwest of Germany with the "romantic" allure of Heidelberg, the appeal of cuckoo clocks in the Black Forest, and the scenic beauty of the Rhine Valley including the mandatory cruise from Ruedesheim at least as far as the Loreley. A popular third choice is now Berlin, as the avantgarde and ever-changing German capital, party mile and festival and convention headquarter. Increasingly, the former East Germany with Dresden in particular is gaining in popularity. Yet few visitors would ever step beyond those main regions, although true culture off the beaten track awaits those who venture beyond such stereotypical destinations.
It is generally believed that other less touristically developed venues radiate an air of mediocrity. Noone in their right tourist mind would opt to experience German culture in Osnabrück, Gelsenkirchen or Fulda - the choice of the Ruhr Region as one of the European Capitals of Culture 2010 notwithstanding. Yet in our view it IS possible to proceed further into more remote and isolated geographical locations to encounter unique and genuine cultural experiences totally contrary to the usual stereotypes and a step beyond German mainstream mediocrity. Our chosen point of departure for such explorations is GÖTTINGEN, the renowned university and research town in Lower Saxony and once home to the great explorer Alexander von Humboldt. The city emerged WWII unscathed and thus boasts architectural harmony and a picturesque pedestrianized inner city.
Heading west from Göttingen, we reach an area of rolling hills and unpoilt countryside known as the WESERBERGLAND, the Weser hills region, an area of scenic beauty yet hardly breathtaking, at least not along the main course of the river. It is here, however, that some of Germany's most famous fairytales originated and where the brothers Wilhelm and Jacob GRIMM lived to create their legacy. The very venues of some of their fairytales are within close proximity to the main course of the river WESER and it is there that we may encounter scenery of great beauty and solitude as well as true German culture away from the mainstream.
Such venues include the SABABURG castle, THE original SLEEPING BEAUTY castle and home to the legend of sisters SABA, BRAMA and TRENDULA, who unfairly distributed their late father's inheritance cheating the blind BRAMA out of much of her share. The SABABURG is located within close proximity to the Weser Hill Region in a scenic forest area known as the Reinhardswald, totally devoid of visitors and allowing for hour-long hikes of solitude and quiet. It is here we intersect with the official German Fairytale Road, another concoction of the German tourist industry but far far less popular than the Romantic Road in Bavaria. Following the fairytale trail, we come across other legendary venues such as TRENDELBURG fortress for Rapunzel, Gieselwerder back on the Weser river for PUSS IN BOOTS and SNOW WHITE, and may then head as far North as Hameln, home to PETER PIPER.
Yet far beyond the fairytale theme, this tri-state border region where the Federal states of Lower Saxony, Hesse and Northrhine Westphalia meet, has unique retreats and scenic appeal, particularly with the hilly SOLLING forest region boasting thick jungle-like tree vegetation hundreds of years old, cross-country skiing terrain and quaint small towns with half-timbered "FACHWERK" houses such as USLAR or HÖXTER. Bordering the Weser and Solling regions, we find FÜRSTENBERG with one of the oldest and most-renowned PORCELAIN manufacturies in Germany. And the Solling is home to the unique HUTEWALD PROJECT environmental experiment, whereby wild horses and heck cattle are being reintroduced into their natural habitat. Right on the confluence of the Diemel and Weser river, we come across the baroque Huguenot spa-town of BAD KARLSHAFEN, site of the 1976 film "Der Winter der ein Sommer war" recounting the life of Landgrave Carl of Hesse-Kassel. Here saline water bubbles to the surface and may be enjoyed in the Weserberglandtherme spa complex. The saline water is even shipped to partner spa pools as far as the Bavarian Alps.
The ultimate retreat, however, and place for solitude, reflection and renewal, is the monastery of BURSFELDE right by the Weser river itself and on the edge of the dense BRAMWALD forest, where a small narrow highway protrudes from the thick vegetation and follows the course of the tiny NIEME stream. It is here that numerous small parking bays invite us to embark on long hikes far removed from the crowds and where we may feel part of Germanic fairytale history in tune with true nature and ourselves.
A close second is the Southwest of Germany with the "romantic" allure of Heidelberg, the appeal of cuckoo clocks in the Black Forest, and the scenic beauty of the Rhine Valley including the mandatory cruise from Ruedesheim at least as far as the Loreley. A popular third choice is now Berlin, as the avantgarde and ever-changing German capital, party mile and festival and convention headquarter. Increasingly, the former East Germany with Dresden in particular is gaining in popularity. Yet few visitors would ever step beyond those main regions, although true culture off the beaten track awaits those who venture beyond such stereotypical destinations.
It is generally believed that other less touristically developed venues radiate an air of mediocrity. Noone in their right tourist mind would opt to experience German culture in Osnabrück, Gelsenkirchen or Fulda - the choice of the Ruhr Region as one of the European Capitals of Culture 2010 notwithstanding. Yet in our view it IS possible to proceed further into more remote and isolated geographical locations to encounter unique and genuine cultural experiences totally contrary to the usual stereotypes and a step beyond German mainstream mediocrity. Our chosen point of departure for such explorations is GÖTTINGEN, the renowned university and research town in Lower Saxony and once home to the great explorer Alexander von Humboldt. The city emerged WWII unscathed and thus boasts architectural harmony and a picturesque pedestrianized inner city.
Heading west from Göttingen, we reach an area of rolling hills and unpoilt countryside known as the WESERBERGLAND, the Weser hills region, an area of scenic beauty yet hardly breathtaking, at least not along the main course of the river. It is here, however, that some of Germany's most famous fairytales originated and where the brothers Wilhelm and Jacob GRIMM lived to create their legacy. The very venues of some of their fairytales are within close proximity to the main course of the river WESER and it is there that we may encounter scenery of great beauty and solitude as well as true German culture away from the mainstream.
Such venues include the SABABURG castle, THE original SLEEPING BEAUTY castle and home to the legend of sisters SABA, BRAMA and TRENDULA, who unfairly distributed their late father's inheritance cheating the blind BRAMA out of much of her share. The SABABURG is located within close proximity to the Weser Hill Region in a scenic forest area known as the Reinhardswald, totally devoid of visitors and allowing for hour-long hikes of solitude and quiet. It is here we intersect with the official German Fairytale Road, another concoction of the German tourist industry but far far less popular than the Romantic Road in Bavaria. Following the fairytale trail, we come across other legendary venues such as TRENDELBURG fortress for Rapunzel, Gieselwerder back on the Weser river for PUSS IN BOOTS and SNOW WHITE, and may then head as far North as Hameln, home to PETER PIPER.
Yet far beyond the fairytale theme, this tri-state border region where the Federal states of Lower Saxony, Hesse and Northrhine Westphalia meet, has unique retreats and scenic appeal, particularly with the hilly SOLLING forest region boasting thick jungle-like tree vegetation hundreds of years old, cross-country skiing terrain and quaint small towns with half-timbered "FACHWERK" houses such as USLAR or HÖXTER. Bordering the Weser and Solling regions, we find FÜRSTENBERG with one of the oldest and most-renowned PORCELAIN manufacturies in Germany. And the Solling is home to the unique HUTEWALD PROJECT environmental experiment, whereby wild horses and heck cattle are being reintroduced into their natural habitat. Right on the confluence of the Diemel and Weser river, we come across the baroque Huguenot spa-town of BAD KARLSHAFEN, site of the 1976 film "Der Winter der ein Sommer war" recounting the life of Landgrave Carl of Hesse-Kassel. Here saline water bubbles to the surface and may be enjoyed in the Weserberglandtherme spa complex. The saline water is even shipped to partner spa pools as far as the Bavarian Alps.
The ultimate retreat, however, and place for solitude, reflection and renewal, is the monastery of BURSFELDE right by the Weser river itself and on the edge of the dense BRAMWALD forest, where a small narrow highway protrudes from the thick vegetation and follows the course of the tiny NIEME stream. It is here that numerous small parking bays invite us to embark on long hikes far removed from the crowds and where we may feel part of Germanic fairytale history in tune with true nature and ourselves.
This week's blog is dedicated in loving memory to my brother, who passed away in the idyllic setting near Bursfelde monastery in July, 1991 - R.I.P.
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