Canarian Coastlines of the North: Puerto de las Nieves & beyond

 

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For visitors to Gran Canaria who prefer local alternatives to the mass-tourist resorts around Maspalomas in the South, the capital city of Las Palmas constitutes a perfect gateway for exploring treasures off the beaten track in the island´s center and north. From here we have previously set out to discover the Canarian Rum city of ARUCAS as well as the famous Sunday market of VEGA DE SAN MATEO. This time, we will continue to the far North of Gran canaria to explore its magnificent coastline featuring several prominent coastal communities including PUERTO DE LAS NIEVES and SARDINA.

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What used to be rather poor fishing villages in the past have lately seen a significant influx of investment and visitors both local and foreign alike. Puerto de las Nieves, part of the city of AGAETE, in particular has undergone a true renaissance in recent years and nowadays boasts a pristine local Canarian ambience along its seaside promenade "PASEO DE LOS POETAS". Here we find colorful fishermen houses perched together on narrow cliffs, a small harbor full of small colorful fishing vessels, seafood restaurants, craft shops and galleries. In the distance on a clear day we may see the snow-capped peak of Mount Teide on Tenerife, which gave the name Puerto de las Nieves to the community.

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Around the main square we find a small chapel featuring the treasure of a 16th century triptych, a Flemish piece of artwork in three parts by Joos Van Cleve depicting the Virgin and Child and carried to AGAETE Parish Church during the annual Fiesta de la Rama. Just past the attractive dark-sanded beach area, we find the DEDO DE DIOS (God´s Finger), a 30 meter pinnacle of basalt rock in front of the cliffs topped by the pine trees of PINAR DE TAMADABA. While the pinnacle was damaged during a recent tropical storm in 2005, it still is a remarkable sight and great photo stop.

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After enjoying some tasty local CALDO DE PESCADO fish soup in one of the excellent eateries around the port, we continue our exploration of GRan canaria´s North towards the Lighthouse of SARDINA and the community of the same name. Sardina still ranks among the best kept secrets of the island´s fishing villages. An ideal destination for those seeking great local seafood dishes along with peace and tranquility, Sardina is among the most authentic of communities along the coast here. 

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Leaving Galdar along local highway GC-202, we pass miles of white tents under which 6 types of bananas are cultivated before reaching Sardina itself. Directly by the port we find the local delicatessen restaurant LA FRAGATA specializing in seafood at reasonable prices. As of late, the coastal promenade of SARDINA has seen an influx of DIVERS on weekends who have discovered the waters around SARDINA as ideal diving territory. While locals are not too happy about the new arrivals, who tend to spend most of their time in the water rather than helping the local economy, the local attraction of diving in and around SARDINA has added publicity to this picturesque fishing village. Exploring the Northern Coastline of Gran Canaria allows visitors to savor a true piece of local Canarian living and culture - a far cry away from the sand beach and sea routine of package-deal tourists in the South.

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