Storks in Astorga & Stately Sights too

There are few small towns in Europe that can surprise visitors as much by their impressive architecture as Astorga, this small community of 15000 inhabitants located in Castilla-Leon along the famous St.James' Way to Santiago de Compostela. Boasting altogether 3 outstanding building complexes, visitors are perplexed and wonder how a small town in Northwestern Spain could be so richly endowed with a Roman city wall, a huge Cathedral and magnificent Bishop's Palace. Of course, the town of Astorga was far more important in Roman and Medieval times than in its present role as provincial capital of Northwestern Castilla-Leon. Ever since its founding as a Roman colony as a stop along the traditional Roman Road network across the Iberian Peninsula, Astorga has always lived in the shadows of Leon and Santiago. Yet its Roman city wall, recently rebuilt to its former splendor, attests to its glory days during its Roman occupation, which also brought a steady military tradition to the area, which is still alive in the form of modern army barracks. 

Then in medieval times, Astorga's importance as a religious center and Bishop's seat became ever more prevalent and the construction of the Cathedral got under way in 13th century Gothic style. Yet soon funds ran dry and the Gothic main body of the Cathedral had to wait until the 16th century for a Renaissance-style Belfry to be added. When money ran out once again, the remaining unfinished sections including the main portal were added much later in 18th century Baroque style. For that reason, Astorga cathedral is a hodgepodge of architectural styles and a testimony to the community's stubborn dedication to the construction of its religious masterpiece. The Cathedral interior may at first not be quite as impressive as its counterparts in Leon or Santiago, but upon closer inspection, a huge wooden altar and transept appear that are simply mindboggling. Both woodcarved masterpieces from the Renaissance period, the altar in particular is vastly reminiscent of Tillman Riemenschneider's masterful creations in Rothenburg o.d.Tauber in Germany, yet may even be larger, more colorful and thus more overwhelming than Riemenschneider's work. Astorga's Cathedral altar thus comes as a big unexpected surprise to visitors given the otherwise austere and plain interior of the building. 

We later venture across the street to the city's magnificent Bishop's Palace from the late 19th century, among Antonio Gaudi's most controversial early creations. Legend says that Gaudi purposefully toned down the architectural extravagance of the building, but was nonetheless booed out by locals during its inauguration. Spanish Guitar music can usually be heard from the steps of the Bishop's Palace, which nowadays houses the highly interesting Pilgrims' Museum of the St.James' Way where we learn more about the legends, traditions and objectives behind pilgrimages coming through Astorga en route to Santiago in Galicia. And for those who feel the museum there is not filled enough with religious artifacts, the nearby Diocesian Museum beckons, which forms part of the Cathedral complex and may be seen as part of a combination ticket covering all 3 sights. 

We then proceed to nearby CAFE GAUDI with a splendid old-fashioned interior and an inviting terrace outside. Here we can indulge in delicious local specialties such as the muffin-like MANTECADA cake, or local BISCOCHOS, more coffee cake than biscuit as well as various chocolate specialties. Astorga looks back at centuries of chocolate-making tradition, the fruit of which may be sampled and purchased at various venues in and around the Cathedral and Bishop's Palace. Here too we find Castillian specialty stores offering anything from local wine, cheese and bakery products. Finally, as we head further afield in our explorations of Spain's best kept secret, its Northwest, we witness numerous smaller communities near Astorga that have village churches with impressive storks' nests, attesting to the region's pivotal role as stork breeding grounds and transit points for large flocks of storks flying from Europe further South.