Discovering Donostia, San Sebastian!

It is usually overcast and dreary upon arrival in the Basque Lands - after all, such lush green vegetation needs its fair share of rain to prosper and bloom. Yet in such coastal microclimate, matters may change quickly, giving way to brilliant sunshine and warmth, during which San Sebastian, the region's uncontested resort gem, reveals its true magic and allure. From nowhere else can the city's blessed geographical layout and urban charm be appreciated better than from MOUNT IGUELDO, where a fortress-turned-theme park invites visitors to admire a splendid view over LA CONCHA Bay with its white-washed beach and its upscale turn-of-the-century resort hotels. It conjures up images of Nice in France or even a Mini-Rio of sorts with Mount Urgull as San Sebastian's sugar cane, but no comparison to others does the city justice, as it exudes a distinct air of its own, on the cusp of French and Spanish cultures and yet a quintessential example of Basque identity with all its mystery and charm.

As we enter the inner city of Donostia, as San Sebastian is called in Basque, it becomes obvious that this is an affluent community, and much more sedate today than during its glory days over a century ago. We are briefly reminded of the same air of by-gone glory of places such as Lucerne, Switzerland or Biarritz further North in France, but we quickly realize Donostia is in a league of its own attracting young and old, rich and poor, visitors and locals alike in a neverending array of activities surrounding the sea, its culinary traditions and unique Basque language and culture. With only 180 000 inhabitants, it ranks third in the Basque lands behind Bilbao and the capital Vittoria, but it is the unrivaled superstar of the region, boasting among the highest real estate prices in Spain even during these turbulent economic times, and hosting a series of not-to-miss cultural events throughout the year such as its famous Jazz festival in the summer or the San Sebastian Film Festival in September.

Near the URUMEA river dividing the city into 2 neighborhoods with their respective beaches, we find the most exclusive set of buildings in Donostia, including the century-old Victoria Eugenia Theater and its twin, the prestigious MARIA CRISTINA Hotel. During the annual Film Festival, this is where movie stars may stroll between the two buildings, and sometimes they get lost at nearby OQUENDO bar and cafe - in which case they may be immortalized by a picture and autograph on the venue's wall of fame. OQUENDO is a great place to start savoring one of the most unique and enjoyable Basque activities - a TXIKITEO - sort of like a pub-crawl but WITHOUT becoming inebriated. Combining the region's social and culinary traditions, a txikiteo involves enjoyment of Basque tapas called PINTXOS - often true works of art occupying every inch of counter space at local bars and restaurants. The highest density of pintxos may be found in Donostia's OLD TOWN, where pedestrianized streets around Constitution square invite locals and visitors alike to bar-hop from one round of pintxos to the next, flushing them down with local SIDRA (cider) or better still, the local young white wine known as TXAKOLI.

Attesting to the Basques' great gastronomical traditions, San Sebastian boasts the highest per-capita number of Michelin stars in Europe with the city awash in great eateries for every budget including the high-end much-appraised restaurants ARZAK, Martin Berasategui and Akelarre. Yet in the Old Town great food may be found at much lower prices with virtually every street near the local BRETXA market filled with restaurants (Bodegon Alejandro & Juanito Kojua are among our favorites), pintxo bars and men-only GASTRONOMICAL ASSOCIATIONS, another unique feature in Euskadi, as the region is known in Basque. Adjacent to the OLD TOWN and separated by Donostia's main throughfare, AVENIDA DE LA LIBERTAD, we find the new town with its Neo-Gothic Cathedral, which was homogenously built in the 19th century during the resort town's boom years. Here we find modern San Sebastian filled with shops and department stores including the SAN MARTIN mall, a popular gathering and meeting place for locals and visitors alike.

Yet nothing reveals the magic of Donostia better than a walk along its 2 famous beaches, both spectacular yet so highly different. LA CONCHA beach, truly resembling a seashell in its shape, is most popular with tourists and senior beachgoers - it thus exudes a quieter and more relaxed beach ambience than its busy local counterpart, LA ZURRIOLA beach on the other side of the URUMEA river. LA CONCHA beach lends itself to extended seafront walks with great views from nearby MIRAMAR palace and is perfect for swimming in the quiet waters of the protected bay, making the spot ideal for families with small children as well, LA ZURRIOLA, by contrast, located just behind Donostia's modern convention center, is exposed to the open BAY OF BISCAY, part of the Atlantic, and as such better suited for surfing and adventure swimming. ZURRIOLA beach thus attracts a mostly young and local crowd - a perfect hangout to spend time with friends, learn more about Basque culture and watch families do their after-dinner strolls. And although Castillian Spanish is widely spoken, a few words of Basque - this mysterious strange language unrelated to any other, may help make new local friends. So knowing a few words of EUSKARA (Basque), such as KAIXO (hello) and AGUR (BYE), is a great sign of good etiquette in this region so justifiably proud of its unique cultural, linguistic and gastronomical legacy.