On the trails of Marco Polo in Korčula, Croatia

2011-06-09_16

Confidence in tourism to Croatia has been on the rebound since the devastating war on the Balkans in the 1990s. Tourist Authorities in Croatia have been trying hard to restore Croatia's image as a desireable tourist destination rather than a war zone, and the effects can increasingly be felt all along the Adriatic Coast. Visitor numbers are up, but with the exception of Dubrovnik and possibly Split, most of Croatia's spectacular Adriatic coastline remains as yet underrated and thus perfect as a treasure-off-the-beaten-track destination. This particularly holds true to the many islands along Croatia's Dalmatian coast - among the most beautiful of which ranks KORčULA, or Korkyra Melaina (Black Corfu), as it was called by the Greeks, the island's first settlers.

Arriving to Korčula by ship, guests are amazed at the scenic location of Korčula town on a small peninsula jutting out towards the blue Adriatic Sea. From afar we can see the leaning tower of Korčula's St. Mark's cathedral, built mostly in the 15th century. The island is covered by dense conifer woods including pine and cypress along with olive plantations and vast areas of heather and herbs. The unspoilt waters around Korčula are vital breeding grounds for various varieties of fish, crabs, octopus and squids. On the island itself, fauna abounds with jackals, called cagalj here, mongooses, wild boar, pheasants and hares. Unsurprisingly, agriculture still ranks as the most important economic activity, although tourism now ranks a close second.

As we explore Korčula Town, a small picturesque community of less than 6000 inhabitants, we are reminded of the island's rich cultural heritage as manifested among others by its long shipbuilding tradition. "Kalafati" and "Maranguni" were the terms for woodworkers and craftsmen in ship construction, terms still used to the present day in Korčula's local dialect. In centuries past, when wooden boats and ships were popular, Korčula reached fame all around the Eastern Mediterranean for the quality of local shipbuiding. Likewise, stone masonry and cutting has a long tradition on Korčula and dates back to the days of the Illyrians, who began using local stone quarries on the island. Both shipbuilding and stone masonry have been on the decline, but Korčula still boasts rich examples of workmanship for both throughout the island.

A unique cultural phenomenon is the tradition of Korčula's Moreska Dance, a traditional sword dance and drama common in the Mediterranean in the 12th and 13th century. Originally thought to have come from Spain to symbolize the conflict between Moors and Christians, Korčula is nowadays the only place in Europe where the Moreska Dance is still performed. The dance involves a red and a black king fighting over a princess with the performance centered around seven circles featuring seven different sword dances. At the end, the Black King is conquered and the Princess happily returned to her beloved Red King.

As we stroll along the narrow cobble-stoned alleys of Korčula Town, we also learn that the island is presumed to be the birthplace of Marco Polo, the world's alleged first world traveller from the 13th century. At that time, Korčula was under Venetian rule and was called "Curzola", making claims for Marco Polo's origins here plausible. Yet the persona of Marco Polo has been shrouded in mystery, since no official documents indicate he hailed from Korčula, and many scholars even doubt he ever made his way over to China in the late 13th century. Yet throughout Korčula we find claims to fame of the island as Marco Polo's place of birth. Irrespective of such claims, Korčula ranks among the most special and scenic places in the Eastern Mediterranean - a true oasis of unspoilt nature, fascinating local culture and a slow pace of life that makes visitors fall in love with the island almost instantly.

2011-06-09_15

 

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