Nuts over Nitra, Slovakia
Approaching the small valley of the Nitra River, home to Slovakia´s 5th largest city Nitra, from the North, we cannot help but marvel at the splendid geographical location and scenic beauty of the region. Just like Rome, Nitra was built on seven hills, foothills of the Tatra mountains, and equally looks back at a long history since the earliest days of human settlement. Unlike Rome, however, Nitra is hardly on the travel agenda for most international visitors. In fact, most tourists to Slovakia may pay a quick visit to the capital Bratislava or in wintertime go skiing in the Tatra mountains, but few linger on to explore other regional charms and attractions of this, one of Europe´s youngest countries of 5 million, born in the aftermath of the VELVET DIVORCE in 1993 that split Czechoslovakia into the Czech and Slovak Republics respectively.
As we enter this city of 85000 and important cultural and administrative center for Western Slovakia, we are equally surprised at the variety of well-preserved historic buildings, most notably Nitra Castle (Nitiransky Hrad), which ranks among the most important arqueological sites in all of Slovakia. Excarvations confirmed that there once stood a castle here as early as the 7th century, and a small chapel used to stand near where today we find the Gothic St. Emmeram´s Cathedral. The castle hill nowadays is also home to one of the most influential Roman Catholic bishopries in the country, attesting to the devout Catholicism of Slovaks today, so unlike their predominantly atheist Czech brethren further North. Along with numerous other important sites in central Nitra, the HRAD is colorfully illuminated at night, a spectacular sight to behold from even miles away.
From the Castle Hill area, we descend into central Nitra´s pedestrian zone dominated to the North by the vast and spacious Svetoplukovo Namesti with the communist-era Andrej Bagar Theater and the splendid Neo-Renaissance building of the former City Hall, nowadays home to the Nitra City Museum. Here old historic and often restored buildings converge with quixotic and at times bland Communist architecture as well as modern urban renewal projects. The result is highly pleasing and culturally unique, vastly reminiscent of other areas in Central and Eastern Europe that have recently undergone similar rapid change in their urban design, such as Bulgaria or Ukraine. Yet here the vast investments of EU funds can be equally felt, as vast stretches of Nitra´s streets and building facades are given a generous face lift.
As we proceed along the main pedestrian street, Stefanikovo Trieda, we pass a small alley to the left, where we find Nitra´s splendid Synague, built 1908-1911 by Budapest-based Jewish architect Lipot Baumhorn for the city´s Neolog community. The building´s ornate facade combines elements of moorish and byzantine architecture typical of Baumhorn´s building style. At the end of the pedestrianized section of Stefanikovo Trieda, an architectural surprise of a different kind awaits us in the form of the brand new and spacious Centro Nitra shopping mall. Modern glass and steel make for a poignant contrast to the nearby communist-era building housing TESCO nowadays.
We end our explorations of central Nitra just outside the inner city, however, near the Nitra River embankment back underneath the Castle Hill. Here we are delighted by the neatly landscaped park area and sports facilties featuring a soccer stadium, miscellanous tennis courts, a small zoo and beautifully planted seasonal flower beds. And as evening descends over the foothills of the Tatra Mountains, the stately illuminated building of the Nitriansky Hrad overlooks this Slovak jewel as the unquestionable landmark of Nitra´s precious cityscape.
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