Exploring the San Pere Neighborhood of Barcelona
When I first set foot into the Barrio de San Pere in Barcelona, I was pleasantly surprised at how quiet, authentic and unpretetious it is compared to the overcrowded tourist areas of the Ramblas, Plaza Catalunya and the Barrio Gotico nearby. Although only a mere 5 to 10 minutes walk from the main attractions of central Barcelona, the San Pere neighborhood has managed to retain its local charm, quaintness and authenticity. For that reason, this week Euroquest Sidetracks would like to take a closer look at this often neglected part of the Catalan Capital and explore it as part of an alternative itinerary to Barcelona, one that is infused with local culture and experiences.
The Barrio de San Pere is located between the Barrio Gotico to the West, the trendy Born district further south & the Ciudadela Park to the Southwest featuring numerous monuments from the World Expo of 1888, making Barcelona rank among the few cities to host the World Expo twice (1888 and 1929). From the Arc de Triomf we have easy access to the San Pere neighborhood centered around 3 streets running from East to West at different levels - the upper, middle and lower streets of San Pere respectively - or in Catalan "Carrer de San Pere Mes Alt, Mitja & Mes Baix". The name comes from the nearby 10th century monastery of "San Pere de les Puelles" referring to girls that disfigured themselves to avoid rape and murder in medieval times. The main attraction here are narrow cobble stone lanes displaying local life in Barcelona away from the tourist crowds. It is a pleasure to get lost in the small alleyways, observe locals chatting in the street, elderly women carrying their shopping bags home or delivery carts being moved through the narrow access paths to local businesses.
In recent years, San Pere has been in the headlines as possibly another victim of urban regeneration. After all, this used to rank among the poorer and more run-down neighborhoods of Barcelona, until a few years back, major renewal projects were launched, among them the modern SANTA CATARINA market hall on its southside. Yet developers went too far, threatening to destroy a number of historic buildings, which in turn triggered loud protests from local residents and conservationists alike. Eventually, the Council took sides with the protesters, many projects were suspended in what is generally regarded as a successful display of "People Power". To commemorate this achievement, some tiles adorn a neighborhood fountain at the disputed site with the words "FORAT DE LA VERGONYA" or "Hole of Shame".
Although the true charm of San Pere lies in strolling and exploring the neighborhood's narrow alleyways, enjoy drinks and meals at local eateries and watching the locals, the area also offers a few architectural highlights, attractions that are underrated compared to their more popular counterparts on the Ramblas or l'Eixample. First and foremost the PALAU DE LA MUSICA CATALANA on the western edge of San Pere ranks among the highlights of modernist architecture in the Catan Capital. Built by local 19th century architect and politician Lluis Domenech i Montaner, it displays similar magnificent ornate modernist features as many of the more publicized GAUDI buildings in town, yet receives far fewer visitors. The modern market area of Santa Caterina on the southern border of San Pere is likewise a delight to discover both in terms of its unprecedented architecture and its local neighborhood atmosphere. Finally, the cloister of Saint Augustin, San Pere de les Puelles itself marks a scenic highlight as part of a lush green square featuring shrubs, trees and numerous outdoor cafes and eateries to fully savor the local carisma of this underrated gem of a Barcelona neighborhood.
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