Walking the vineyards of the Vaud Riviera

Switzerland is not known for low prices or mild climatic conditions. Despite being a country of unsurpassed scenic beauty and high standard of living, most visitors will either pass through briefly on a tour across Europe or pay a premium for longer vacations involving skiing or hiking activities in the wintery Swiss Alps. There are some exceptions, however, and climatically the area around Lake Geneva between Lausanne and the Castle of Chillon, the so-called Vaud Riviera or Riviere de Lavaux, boasts among the warmest and most moderate microclimates in Switzerland, second maybe only to Locarno in the Ticino. In addition, it is a region of unique and breathtaking scenery featuring plentiful vineyards and occasional palm trees on the slopes of the Vaud Riviera facing south towards mighty Lake Geneva, Lac Leman in French, with the backdrop of Mt Blanc in the French Alps.

Yes, accomodation and food are not cheap, but there are alternatives to overpriced hotels and restaurants in the area, from youth hostels in the Montreux area to self-service restaurants run by Switzerland's large food chains CO-OP, MIGROS and the MANOR Department Store chain. But the biggest bargain are the many enjoyable free outdoor activities in the area hardly any foreign visitor to Switzerland tends to take proper time to enjoy to its fullest, including wonderful hiking and walking opportunities that abound in and around the Vaud Riviera.

A natural choice for a Treasure Off the Beaten Track destination is therefore the small town of Chexbres located deep in the vine country of the Vaud Riviera about 2 miles northwest of Vevey. It is possible to descend in the village center to embark on a marvellous, 2-hour down- and uphill hike around the vineyards there. As we depart from the village, we witness some of the best panoramic views of Lake Geneva and the French Alps, as the walking trail initially winds downhill around the famous ST. SAPHORIN wine area. The descent is even steep in some parts, and upon reaching the small village of Rivaz, we actually find ourselves not too far away from the Lakeshore and must therefore climb again uphill, gradually but steadily, to traverse the DÉZALEY growing area, an equally well-renowned brand among Swiss wines. Here we witness two buildings that go back to the very origins of wine-making in the Lake Geneva area, the CLOS DES ABBAYES and CLOS DES MOINES, small monastic settlements from which viticulture was initially introduced to the region in the 13th century.

The hiking trail then gradually levels out again as we cross over to the CALAMIN brand of wine, known for its heavier and fuller body due to the rich soil it is planted on. We find ourselves just below the beautiful village of Epesses, inviting us to rest for a while at one of its terraced cafes overlooking LAC LEMAN or to enjoy a winetasting at many of its local wineries. Apart from sampling a cross-section of the high-quality wines of the area, we are also tempted to indulge in the wineries' bread with local BRIE cheese and sausage offerings.

We then continue our walk towards the lakeshore and cross the last line of wine brands, finally entering the EPESSES wine-growing area, known for its light white wine of the season, not unlike the Heurigen wines of Austria, but of higher quality. Here the trail ultimately descends down towards the main highway and the lakeshore just before the village of CULLY. It is possible to bypass the traffic and finish the hike along Cully's picturesque lakeside promenade to complete our 2.6 mile-long (3.5 km) magic walk along the vineyards of the Vaud Riviera - the true beauty of which is free to enjoy for all - and hopefully always will be.

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