The magic glow and colors of IBIZA
Is it possible to write a Treasures off the Beaten Track contribution on the Balearic Islands - THE most visited part of tourist Spain and home to package-deal heaven?
Most visitors to the Balearics head directly to the busy beaches of Mallorca, although IBIZA too has its fair share of package-deal tourism with visitor numbers increasing steadily over the past decade.
Yet it IS fathomable to have an ethnographic immersion-type experience here also, in tune with our approach to travel, by using the very tools of mass-tourist infrastructure and then transcending them by making them work for us according to our own needs and requirements.
It is thus perfectly fine to get onto the next charter plane destination EIVISSA, as the island is known in Catalan, to opt for a rental car (although many areas are easily accessible by public bus as well), and to book a hotel in advance. Yet rather than high-rise hotel resorts such as Playa d'en Bossa or, in the worst mass-tourist scenario, San Antonio in the North, we instead opt for FIGUERETAS, a suburb or district of Ibiza Town, and an interesting blend of both local and tourist infrastructure within easy walking distance to the center of town and night-time entertainment venues.
Once settled into our hotel room, Figueretas has plenty to offer, from the small PLAYA DE LOS MOLINOS beach, frequented by tourists and locals alike, to local infrastructure such as grocery stores, gyms where the bouncers and model boys work out, and local eateries and cafes, many of which offer inexpensive MENU DEL DIA options.
First and foremost, however, it must be noted that IBIZA is a markedly SEASONAL destination, revealing its true magic only during a few precious weeks of the year - good times for slightly off-the-beaten-track visits are late May until early June as well as late August into early September. During the summer months, the island gets too crowded with package-deal tourists, particularly at times coinciding with families' summer and school vacations. During the winter months, by contrast, the island gets too deserted and quiet, and many dining and night entertainment venues remain closed. During the "magical" period however, IBIZA oozes a special vibrant energy unparalleled anywhere in the Mediterranean, and draws many visitors, package-deal and no-frills tourists alike, as well as a steady following of "alternative" visitors.
The traditional rituals surrounding "alternative" type vacations on Ibiza are worth an ethnographic investigation in their own right, much of which has remained unchanged over many years - including the highly ritualized public bus boarding and transportation to the southernmost point of the Island, the Saline fields of Las Salinas and the beach of Es Cavallet. Starting around 1030 or 11am, bus stops around town become increasingly crowded with worshippers of sun, beach and human beauty, as they fight over the best seat for their 25 minute bus ride to the salt fields. This sight alone is worth trying it out once - but for repeated trips to the beach, the convenience of a rental car is by far preferable.
Upon arrival at SES SALINES the ritual continues, as busloads of visitors desembark and start heading towards ES CAVALLET beach, some stopping for snacks and water along the way, others choosing less direct yet more scenic routing and yet others branching off towards the North for the more mainstream LAS SALINAS beach.
Within 30 minutes, however, most wind up at the beautiful light golden sand of Es Cavallet beach, clothing optional and with spectacular views of Ibiza's coastline and EIVISSA Ciudad in the distance. When sunbathing and swimming become too repetitious, a small CHIRINGAY restaurant beckons and numerous trails lure sunbathers away from the beach towards the shrubs and hills in the interior and out as far as the gorgeous lighthouse of TORRE DE SES PORTRES with views of FORMENTERA further afield. Following the trails northbound we also come across a wonderful less crowded small beach area known as CALA PLUMA. Depending on the wind, clouds and time of day, it may be much nicer and relaxing to opt for this small cave rather than the spacious Es Cavallet Beach.
Undoubtedly the most magical time is late afternoon into early evening, when the sun feels less intense, changes in color and chill-out ambience spreads throughout the beach...Cafe Del Mar tracks echo from the restaurant afar...and the entire setting is marked by a spectacular before-sunset light unparalleled anywhere...Vincent Van Gogh would take delight in it - not to mention the relaxing chill-out atmosphere - for that reason, it is best to have access to a rental car, as thus this special time of day may be savored to the max without need to check the time to rejoin the return frenzy on the bus. The rental car also comes in handy when visiting other remote villages on the island, including our favorites SANTA GERTRUDIS and SANTA INES for good local food and charming laid-back Ibicenco hospitality. We toast to that with several chupitos of the local HIERBAS IBICENCAS herbal licor.
After our return to Figueretas, a good shower, nap and may be dinner in either the touristy areas around Figueretas' beach promenade or at more local eateries in town, Ibiza's nightlife beckons too - yet rather late, as is customary anywhere on the Iberian peninsula...Drinks with friends and strolling around the markets in IBIZA town are customary between 1030pm and 1am...and bars and clubs usually don't fill up until way later into the night. Particularly beautiful is to proceed late at night further up past La Muralla into Ibiza Old Town DALT VILLA and to enjoy splendid views of the Sea and Harbor from Plaza de España. A tunnel then leads up to the CASTILLO for spectacular vistas over the nearby coastline towards Figueretas and Playa d'en Bossa. A trail can then be chosen as far back as Es Soto and Los Molinos beach, and finally, the hotels of Figueretas.
Following only a few days, a miraculous change may be observed in visitors to the PITIUSAS (Pine Islands, as Ibiza and Formentera are formally known) - just as a dear local friend once observed: You are only truly back, once your eyes reflect the brilliant magic glow of Ibiza.
Most visitors to the Balearics head directly to the busy beaches of Mallorca, although IBIZA too has its fair share of package-deal tourism with visitor numbers increasing steadily over the past decade.
Yet it IS fathomable to have an ethnographic immersion-type experience here also, in tune with our approach to travel, by using the very tools of mass-tourist infrastructure and then transcending them by making them work for us according to our own needs and requirements.
It is thus perfectly fine to get onto the next charter plane destination EIVISSA, as the island is known in Catalan, to opt for a rental car (although many areas are easily accessible by public bus as well), and to book a hotel in advance. Yet rather than high-rise hotel resorts such as Playa d'en Bossa or, in the worst mass-tourist scenario, San Antonio in the North, we instead opt for FIGUERETAS, a suburb or district of Ibiza Town, and an interesting blend of both local and tourist infrastructure within easy walking distance to the center of town and night-time entertainment venues.
Once settled into our hotel room, Figueretas has plenty to offer, from the small PLAYA DE LOS MOLINOS beach, frequented by tourists and locals alike, to local infrastructure such as grocery stores, gyms where the bouncers and model boys work out, and local eateries and cafes, many of which offer inexpensive MENU DEL DIA options.
First and foremost, however, it must be noted that IBIZA is a markedly SEASONAL destination, revealing its true magic only during a few precious weeks of the year - good times for slightly off-the-beaten-track visits are late May until early June as well as late August into early September. During the summer months, the island gets too crowded with package-deal tourists, particularly at times coinciding with families' summer and school vacations. During the winter months, by contrast, the island gets too deserted and quiet, and many dining and night entertainment venues remain closed. During the "magical" period however, IBIZA oozes a special vibrant energy unparalleled anywhere in the Mediterranean, and draws many visitors, package-deal and no-frills tourists alike, as well as a steady following of "alternative" visitors.
The traditional rituals surrounding "alternative" type vacations on Ibiza are worth an ethnographic investigation in their own right, much of which has remained unchanged over many years - including the highly ritualized public bus boarding and transportation to the southernmost point of the Island, the Saline fields of Las Salinas and the beach of Es Cavallet. Starting around 1030 or 11am, bus stops around town become increasingly crowded with worshippers of sun, beach and human beauty, as they fight over the best seat for their 25 minute bus ride to the salt fields. This sight alone is worth trying it out once - but for repeated trips to the beach, the convenience of a rental car is by far preferable.
Upon arrival at SES SALINES the ritual continues, as busloads of visitors desembark and start heading towards ES CAVALLET beach, some stopping for snacks and water along the way, others choosing less direct yet more scenic routing and yet others branching off towards the North for the more mainstream LAS SALINAS beach.
Within 30 minutes, however, most wind up at the beautiful light golden sand of Es Cavallet beach, clothing optional and with spectacular views of Ibiza's coastline and EIVISSA Ciudad in the distance. When sunbathing and swimming become too repetitious, a small CHIRINGAY restaurant beckons and numerous trails lure sunbathers away from the beach towards the shrubs and hills in the interior and out as far as the gorgeous lighthouse of TORRE DE SES PORTRES with views of FORMENTERA further afield. Following the trails northbound we also come across a wonderful less crowded small beach area known as CALA PLUMA. Depending on the wind, clouds and time of day, it may be much nicer and relaxing to opt for this small cave rather than the spacious Es Cavallet Beach.
Undoubtedly the most magical time is late afternoon into early evening, when the sun feels less intense, changes in color and chill-out ambience spreads throughout the beach...Cafe Del Mar tracks echo from the restaurant afar...and the entire setting is marked by a spectacular before-sunset light unparalleled anywhere...Vincent Van Gogh would take delight in it - not to mention the relaxing chill-out atmosphere - for that reason, it is best to have access to a rental car, as thus this special time of day may be savored to the max without need to check the time to rejoin the return frenzy on the bus. The rental car also comes in handy when visiting other remote villages on the island, including our favorites SANTA GERTRUDIS and SANTA INES for good local food and charming laid-back Ibicenco hospitality. We toast to that with several chupitos of the local HIERBAS IBICENCAS herbal licor.
After our return to Figueretas, a good shower, nap and may be dinner in either the touristy areas around Figueretas' beach promenade or at more local eateries in town, Ibiza's nightlife beckons too - yet rather late, as is customary anywhere on the Iberian peninsula...Drinks with friends and strolling around the markets in IBIZA town are customary between 1030pm and 1am...and bars and clubs usually don't fill up until way later into the night. Particularly beautiful is to proceed late at night further up past La Muralla into Ibiza Old Town DALT VILLA and to enjoy splendid views of the Sea and Harbor from Plaza de España. A tunnel then leads up to the CASTILLO for spectacular vistas over the nearby coastline towards Figueretas and Playa d'en Bossa. A trail can then be chosen as far back as Es Soto and Los Molinos beach, and finally, the hotels of Figueretas.
Following only a few days, a miraculous change may be observed in visitors to the PITIUSAS (Pine Islands, as Ibiza and Formentera are formally known) - just as a dear local friend once observed: You are only truly back, once your eyes reflect the brilliant magic glow of Ibiza.
Comments
Post a Comment