Best of Culture-in-Travel for 2009
When touring Central, Eastern and Southeastern Europe, it is possible to still find places unspoilt by mass tourism - even along standard itineraries in some of our most popular areas of touring. These places may or may not be visited as part of a "lagniappe"- an unexpected surprise extra treat- during a day of touring, but are certain to facilitate rethinking about Self, Other and the role of Culture in Travel. They may also, for instance, allow a quieter, unspoilt cultural experience or simply add insights on the host culture beyond standard tour programs or guide books.
The following list is by far not complete, but includes some of what I believe are nicer, subtler and more meaningful ways to get to know, experience and savor the Cultural Other.
10. Regensburg, Germany
What a delight of a historic old town with gorgeous original Renaissance buildings and bustling to its own pace with university students and locals. Although it is nicely located on the Prague to Munich route, it has so far escaped mass-tourism. Allow for at least 1.5 or 2 hours to enjoy a stroll through its picturesque pedestrian zone, visit the gigantic gothic cathedral, home to the Regensburg Sparrows Boys Choir, and don't miss the ALTE KAPELLE church, a jewel of Rococo architecture in Europe. And all that without tourist crowds - how soothing for the soul!
9. Eger, Hungary
Most Hungarian towns in the countryside are rather bland and look the same - Eger, however, is quite different and, although of touristic interest with its Szepasszony volgye wine taverns and caves, not overly overrun by tourists. The pedestrianized inner city is charming, architectually homogenous with few hideous communist-era apartment blocks, and the thermal spa is modern, inexpensive and relaxing to body and mind. The nearby Bukke and Matra mountains are also great for daytrips - like Szilvasvarad and the little steam train up into the higher elevations of the forest.
8. Beyoglu Area, Istanbul
As much as Sultanahmed ranks among the worst of mass tourism to Turkey, the Beyoglu area, although popular with tourists and locals alike, offers a much deeper and more authentic insight into day-to-day local activities of contemporary Turks. Taksim Square, obviously the heart of modern-day Istanbul, with busy Istiklal Caddesi radiating from it down towards the Galata Tower, is a mind-boggling spiderweb of activities at all times. And away from the main street, smaller pedestrian alleys beckon with good restaurants and cafes - and new discoveries on almost every corner. And surprisingly for a city of 16 million, it is very safe both day and night.
7. Crimea, Ukraine
Ukraine rocks - ever since lifting visa restrictions for travellers in 2007, venturing East for new discoveries has never been easier and more enjoyable. Just don't expect Western-style convenience and infrastructure. The Crimean Peninsula, with its mild climate and spectacular scenery, is undoubtedly the jewel in Ukraine's crown. From the formerly secret Russian submarine base as Balaklava to the Palace of the Khans in Bakhchisaray and the Swallow's Nest near Yalta, it is an area still waiting to be discovered, savoured and appreciated to its fullest with its heyday clearly in the future. I can't wait to attend KAZANTIP some time soon!
6. Einsiedeln Monastery, Switzerland
There are still nice, spiritually uplifting and envigorating monastic experiences to be found in Central Europe - Einsiedeln ranks high on my list. It is slightly off the beaten track, can be visited on the Lucerne to Innsbruck itinerary though - and even 45 minutes of a break here allows for a unique visit to the Shrine of the Black Madonna and some great coffee and pastry in one of the nearby cafes. And for a shrine and pilgrimage site, it is usually rather quiet and allows for reflection, inspiration and a more dignified cultural encounter with Switzerland.
5. Lednice/Valtice Cultural Landscape, Moravia, Czech Republic
So conveniently located from Vienna en route to Prague and yet so commonly bypassed along the way, this UNESCO world-heritage site is a delight of local culture and an inspiring sight for the senses. Both castles, originally the seat of the Liechtenstein family, are a pleasant surprise in the Moravian countryside, but the landscaping in the area and the garden park around Lednice in particular are a true highlight - best visited in the spring and summer. And yes, there are tourists, but very few from abroad - and mostly czech families with their kids during their summer vacation. A big thumbs up for culture-in-travel here in Moravia!
4. Varna, Bulgaria
No doubt this country is still struggling to shake off its communist-era past with decrepit infrastructure, architectural atrocities and corruption among the worst in Europe. And yet there is something refreshingly charming about Varna, the Pearl of the Black Sea and Bulgaria's "secret capital". The orthodox cathedral along with the pedestrianized inner city stretching all the way down to the waterfront - all pleasant for the senses and with no indication yet of mass-tourist overload or commodification. The Seaside Park adjacent to the city center also makes for great strolls away from the crowd. And it is mostly locals that can be seen here as part of people-watching.
3. 14-Heiligen Basilica, Bavaria, Germany
Heading from Saxony down towards Bavaria, hidden in the hills of Northern Frankonia, we can find this gem of a pilgrimage site - a Basilica certainly used to high visitor numbers, but mostly from locals attracted by its religious importance. The Basilica interior is overwhelming, the surrounding countryside picturesque and sublime - thus the entire visit tends to be spiritually uplifting and culturally enriching - and everyone can find their own saint among the 14 ones to choose from.
2. Olomouc, Moravia, Czech Republic
It is no accident that two of my regional favorites can be found in Moravia - Bohemia's much-neglected and underrated southeastern neighbor. Although so conveniently located on a number of transit routes in Central Europe, most visitors just quickly pass through and miss the hidden highlights along the way. Olomouc - the spiritual capital of Moravia- is a case in point. Whereas Brno, the official Moravian capital, is quite uninspiring and bland, Olomouc has all the charms and architectural beauty in a nutshell, is perfectly located on the Prague to Krakow itinerary and is totally devoid of tourist crowds.
So Strolling and people watching around the inner city is a true delight and gives you an authentic feel for how locals go about their daily affairs. And the UNESCO world-heritage site of Olomouc' TRINITY COLUMN makes for a memorable and perfect picture stop.
1. Bernina Express, Switzerland
There are few places and activities that bring out the enthusiastic child within us, no matter how many times we may have done or seen them before. And even fewer could be ranked as "once-in-a-lifetime" type experiences. The Bernina express is certainly one of them and justifiably occupies the Number 1 spot in our regional Best of Culture-in-Travel for 2009.
From the moment the train leaves the village of TIRANO, this remote outpost at the very end of the Valtinella Valley in Northern Italy, the views are breathtaking and the train line itself, routing and tracks, are a masterpiece of engineering. It IS after all the steepest train line in the world WITHOUT the aid of Cogwheels. Once the train passes the Madonna di Tirano Pilgrimage Church, it then crosses into Switzerland and loops around the circular Viaduct near Brasio to bridge an altitude difference of 30 meters. What a sight! And that is only the beginning as it then skillfully climbs its way into the mountains opening magnificent views of the LAGO DI POSCHIAVO below to peak at Ospizio Bernina at 2253m above sea level. Undoubtedly
a once-in-a-lifetime event and a dignified, subtle, culturally balanced way to experience Alpine Europe at its Best.
Of course, our Best and Worst of Culture-in-Travel list is by far not complete, but is meant as a thought-provoking statement on how Self and Other are continously renegotiated as we travel and how we can arrive at authentic types of encounter, engagement and exchange away from the overly commodified, cliche-burden sites of mass tourism in Europe.
The following list is by far not complete, but includes some of what I believe are nicer, subtler and more meaningful ways to get to know, experience and savor the Cultural Other.
10. Regensburg, Germany
What a delight of a historic old town with gorgeous original Renaissance buildings and bustling to its own pace with university students and locals. Although it is nicely located on the Prague to Munich route, it has so far escaped mass-tourism. Allow for at least 1.5 or 2 hours to enjoy a stroll through its picturesque pedestrian zone, visit the gigantic gothic cathedral, home to the Regensburg Sparrows Boys Choir, and don't miss the ALTE KAPELLE church, a jewel of Rococo architecture in Europe. And all that without tourist crowds - how soothing for the soul!
9. Eger, Hungary
Most Hungarian towns in the countryside are rather bland and look the same - Eger, however, is quite different and, although of touristic interest with its Szepasszony volgye wine taverns and caves, not overly overrun by tourists. The pedestrianized inner city is charming, architectually homogenous with few hideous communist-era apartment blocks, and the thermal spa is modern, inexpensive and relaxing to body and mind. The nearby Bukke and Matra mountains are also great for daytrips - like Szilvasvarad and the little steam train up into the higher elevations of the forest.
8. Beyoglu Area, Istanbul
As much as Sultanahmed ranks among the worst of mass tourism to Turkey, the Beyoglu area, although popular with tourists and locals alike, offers a much deeper and more authentic insight into day-to-day local activities of contemporary Turks. Taksim Square, obviously the heart of modern-day Istanbul, with busy Istiklal Caddesi radiating from it down towards the Galata Tower, is a mind-boggling spiderweb of activities at all times. And away from the main street, smaller pedestrian alleys beckon with good restaurants and cafes - and new discoveries on almost every corner. And surprisingly for a city of 16 million, it is very safe both day and night.
7. Crimea, Ukraine
Ukraine rocks - ever since lifting visa restrictions for travellers in 2007, venturing East for new discoveries has never been easier and more enjoyable. Just don't expect Western-style convenience and infrastructure. The Crimean Peninsula, with its mild climate and spectacular scenery, is undoubtedly the jewel in Ukraine's crown. From the formerly secret Russian submarine base as Balaklava to the Palace of the Khans in Bakhchisaray and the Swallow's Nest near Yalta, it is an area still waiting to be discovered, savoured and appreciated to its fullest with its heyday clearly in the future. I can't wait to attend KAZANTIP some time soon!
6. Einsiedeln Monastery, Switzerland
There are still nice, spiritually uplifting and envigorating monastic experiences to be found in Central Europe - Einsiedeln ranks high on my list. It is slightly off the beaten track, can be visited on the Lucerne to Innsbruck itinerary though - and even 45 minutes of a break here allows for a unique visit to the Shrine of the Black Madonna and some great coffee and pastry in one of the nearby cafes. And for a shrine and pilgrimage site, it is usually rather quiet and allows for reflection, inspiration and a more dignified cultural encounter with Switzerland.
5. Lednice/Valtice Cultural Landscape, Moravia, Czech Republic
So conveniently located from Vienna en route to Prague and yet so commonly bypassed along the way, this UNESCO world-heritage site is a delight of local culture and an inspiring sight for the senses. Both castles, originally the seat of the Liechtenstein family, are a pleasant surprise in the Moravian countryside, but the landscaping in the area and the garden park around Lednice in particular are a true highlight - best visited in the spring and summer. And yes, there are tourists, but very few from abroad - and mostly czech families with their kids during their summer vacation. A big thumbs up for culture-in-travel here in Moravia!
4. Varna, Bulgaria
No doubt this country is still struggling to shake off its communist-era past with decrepit infrastructure, architectural atrocities and corruption among the worst in Europe. And yet there is something refreshingly charming about Varna, the Pearl of the Black Sea and Bulgaria's "secret capital". The orthodox cathedral along with the pedestrianized inner city stretching all the way down to the waterfront - all pleasant for the senses and with no indication yet of mass-tourist overload or commodification. The Seaside Park adjacent to the city center also makes for great strolls away from the crowd. And it is mostly locals that can be seen here as part of people-watching.
3. 14-Heiligen Basilica, Bavaria, Germany
Heading from Saxony down towards Bavaria, hidden in the hills of Northern Frankonia, we can find this gem of a pilgrimage site - a Basilica certainly used to high visitor numbers, but mostly from locals attracted by its religious importance. The Basilica interior is overwhelming, the surrounding countryside picturesque and sublime - thus the entire visit tends to be spiritually uplifting and culturally enriching - and everyone can find their own saint among the 14 ones to choose from.
2. Olomouc, Moravia, Czech Republic
It is no accident that two of my regional favorites can be found in Moravia - Bohemia's much-neglected and underrated southeastern neighbor. Although so conveniently located on a number of transit routes in Central Europe, most visitors just quickly pass through and miss the hidden highlights along the way. Olomouc - the spiritual capital of Moravia- is a case in point. Whereas Brno, the official Moravian capital, is quite uninspiring and bland, Olomouc has all the charms and architectural beauty in a nutshell, is perfectly located on the Prague to Krakow itinerary and is totally devoid of tourist crowds.
So Strolling and people watching around the inner city is a true delight and gives you an authentic feel for how locals go about their daily affairs. And the UNESCO world-heritage site of Olomouc' TRINITY COLUMN makes for a memorable and perfect picture stop.
1. Bernina Express, Switzerland
There are few places and activities that bring out the enthusiastic child within us, no matter how many times we may have done or seen them before. And even fewer could be ranked as "once-in-a-lifetime" type experiences. The Bernina express is certainly one of them and justifiably occupies the Number 1 spot in our regional Best of Culture-in-Travel for 2009.
From the moment the train leaves the village of TIRANO, this remote outpost at the very end of the Valtinella Valley in Northern Italy, the views are breathtaking and the train line itself, routing and tracks, are a masterpiece of engineering. It IS after all the steepest train line in the world WITHOUT the aid of Cogwheels. Once the train passes the Madonna di Tirano Pilgrimage Church, it then crosses into Switzerland and loops around the circular Viaduct near Brasio to bridge an altitude difference of 30 meters. What a sight! And that is only the beginning as it then skillfully climbs its way into the mountains opening magnificent views of the LAGO DI POSCHIAVO below to peak at Ospizio Bernina at 2253m above sea level. Undoubtedly
a once-in-a-lifetime event and a dignified, subtle, culturally balanced way to experience Alpine Europe at its Best.
Of course, our Best and Worst of Culture-in-Travel list is by far not complete, but is meant as a thought-provoking statement on how Self and Other are continously renegotiated as we travel and how we can arrive at authentic types of encounter, engagement and exchange away from the overly commodified, cliche-burden sites of mass tourism in Europe.
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