EUROQUEST SideTracks

Not all Bedouins are the same...

2012-01-26T03:51:00.001-08:00

Most visitors to Jordan are told that the single-most tourist destination for them should be Petra. In deed, no visit to Jordan would ever be complete without admiring the ancient site that is Petra, a city carved entirely into the rocks by the Nabataeans, but it ranks among the most exploited sites of Jordan. Locals, by contrast, tend to flock elsewhere, and the vast desert of Wadi Rum may rank among their favorite getaways. Even Queen Rania of Jordan celebrated her 40th birthday in September 2011 out here in the Wadi Rum, a birthday bash much criticized as overly excessive by most Jordanians (see http://www.maryannsieghart.com/uncategorized/queen-rania-of-jordan-the-new-ma... for further details). For average visitors both foreign and local, a Wadi Rum getaway usually starts at the Visitor Center, and it was here that our adventures with the local Bedouins began.

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As soon as visitors descend from their cars to stop at the Visitor Center, they are preyed upon by countless locals posing as "guides" and offering 4-wheel excursions of various length to uninitiated tourists. The prospects sound tempting and the potential beauty of the desert may make many book such an excursion right away - nonetheless, the insistence and shameful omni-presence of these local guide "vultures" made us reconsider - even our local taxi driver encouraged us to seek alternatives to our Wadi Rum visit, citing the "bad aura" of these alleged "Bedouins" posing as local guides. We therefore decided to simply pay the 5 Jordanian Dinars entrance fee per person and make our way to Wadi Rum village with our own vehicle. There we stopped for a while for pictures & drinks until we were approached again by locals there but in rather more subdued and moderate ways. Reconsidering our options we then decided upon a 2 hour excursion by 4-wheel drive & to this end deliberately approached a trustworthy looking Bedouin guide driving by in his new truck.

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During our 2-hour excursion through the vast Wadi Rum desert we learned from our local guide that the "vultures" at the visitor center are not all actual Bedouins. Many hail from the nearby village of Disi, others from further away and their mission is to snatch away as much business as possible from the local Bedouins of Wadi Rum village. To our own local guide´s distress, many of these insistent individuals at the Visitor Center give local Bedouins a bad name and leave an unfavorable impression with many visitors. Most of the local Bedouins from Wadi Rum village, by contrast, are highly committed to showing visitors their true hospitality along with the scenic beauty of the vast desert landscape. In deed, we felt pleasantly welcomed throughout and a bit like Peter o´Toole in the 1962 movie Lawrence of Arabia, which was filmed in different settings of the Wadi Rum desert. We explored several Bedouin camps and learned that most local Jordanians book 1 or 2 night getaways to spend the night at these camps preferably during warmer times of year, since in winter it may get unpleasantly cold at night here.

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We set out on our explorations close to Wadi Rum village at the famous Nabataean Temple, not quite as overwhelming as the Nabataean´s architectural legacy in Petra but nonetheless impressive. Driving out into the open desert from here we learn that it is not monuments that matter in the Wadi Rum but the scenic beauty of the desert landscape. We pass several imposing rock formations and sand dune sites and a few scenic lookout points particularly beautiful for enjoying desert sunsets. We also stop for 30 minutes at nearby Burrah Canyon, where we walk between narrow rocks and feel a bit like the school girls in Peter Weir´s 1976 Australian movie "Picnic at Hanging Rock". In fact, with every passing of 15 minutes or so, the colors of the desert rocks change in nuance according to the sun´s respective position. As we return to Wadi Rum village following our 2-hour excursion by 4-wheel drive we bask in the beauty of the Wadi Rum experience, determined to come back soon for longer, may be for a weekend camp and well aware of the fact that certainly not all Bedouins are the same out here at Wadi Rum in Southeastern Jordan.

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A Week in Amman

2012-01-11T04:40:00.003-08:00

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Visitors to Jordan are usually told that this is among the most tourist-friendly and fascinating destinations in the Middle East but not necessarily a good choice for those on a budget. Amman has been ranked among the priciest capital cities in the region, and a week or two at leisure and comfort in Jordan can easily ruin your bank account. Many budget guide books therefore recommend covering the highlights of Jordan like Petra and the Dead Sea in as little time as possible and then to swiftly move on to more affordable destinations. For a local perspective on life in Jordan, however, it may be worthwhile to linger on a bit longer in the fascinating capital Amman despite its high prices and to seek local budget alternatives in order to keep expenses low and cultural learning high during an enriching sojourn here.

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A bustling metropolis of 2 million people, Amman is a city caught between tradition and modernity and a place of hope for so many who come to Jordan to seek refuge from their troubled lives in neighboring countries. Among the 6 million Jordanians, only 40% are of true Jordanian descent mostly derived from tribal groups in the North and South of this quite artificial and arbitrary construct of a country, recently created only in the early 20th century. The majority 60% of Jordanians are of Palestinian origin and have settled here in hopes of better and more peaceful lives. Yet modern-day Jordan is a melting pot of numerous groups of immigrants mostly from troubled neighboring countries such as Syria, Iraq or even Libya, whose many residents have been escaping civil war there by way of Egypt. To all of them, King Abdullah´s modestly reformed state constitutes a beacon of hope in what is otherwise a rather grim and troubled geo-political landscape in the Middle East.

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Most sights in central Amman may be covered by foot along the 2 most central hills of the city. Amman was originally built on 7 hills although with its surrounding suburbs it covers more than 19 hills nowadays. In central Amman we find the tourist highlights including the Al-Hussaini Mosque and several arqueological sites, while in nearby Jebel Amman we may explore beautiful villas dating back to the British colonial period. The modern Mosque was only completed in the 1980s and holds ample space for 3000 worshippers - across the street we find an Anglican and further down a Greek-Orthodox church built in the spirit of religious tolerance and diversity here. There is a 5% Christian minority living peacefully here in Jordan as well. Many of these buildings from the 1980s are already in need for some restoration due to water leaks and damage casting doubt on the structural integrity of their design and construction.

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Towering between Downtown Amman and the bustling residential district of Jebel Al-Hussein we find the citadel Jebel Al-Qalaa with important relics of antiquity including the 2nd century a.d. HERCULES TEMPLE and the impressive entry hall of the 7th century Omayade Palace. From here we enjoy sweeping views over central Amman - particularly picturesque at dusk or dawn covering the rather uniform white and beige stones of Amman´s buildings into a pretty pinkish glow. Not far from the citadel in downtown Amman, we also admire the 2nd century Roman Amphitheater on the Jebel Al-Taj with room for 6000 spectators and regular concert events in the summer months. Included in the 2JD admission to the theater is the entrance to the adjacent Museum of Folklore and Ethnography.

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In order to savor all of Amman old and new, however, transportation around town becomes necessary and is most easily done by way of the many inexpensive yellow taxis. Starting at a low 0.25JD base rate - almost anywhere within central Amman is rarely more than a 2 JD cab ride away making this by far the most convenient and reliable form of transportation. It allows us to disover all of the 8 modern circles around which the city has been built including the more upscale neighborhood of Shmeisani and Abdoun just North of the 4th circle, or the modern commercial areas around the 6th and 7th circle. Here gigantic shopping palaces such as MECCA MALL and CITY MALL attest to Amman´s commitment to modernity and reform while holding on to Moslem tradition and values. Nowhere may this commitment and dialectic be felt more tangibly, however, than in the residential neighborhood of JaBaL AL-HUSSEIN where local Amman may be savored in its purest form. Numerous boutiques and small enterprises line the streets of this recently refurbished district, among the only one in town with wide even sidewalks. From the 430am morning prayer call of the nearby modern neighborhood Mosque to the numerous Humus and Falafel shops along its main street, Jabal Al-Hussein invites us to explore a true slice of Amman present and past in ways only a local could otherwise.

A Week in Amman

2012-01-11T04:40:00.001-08:00

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Canarian Coastlines of the North: Puerto de las Nieves & beyond

2011-12-27T05:19:00.001-08:00

For visitors to Gran Canaria who prefer local alternatives to the mass-tourist resorts around Maspalomas in the South, the capital city of Las Palmas constitutes a perfect gateway for exploring treasures off the beaten track in the island´s center and north. From here we have previously set out to discover the Canarian Rum city of ARUCAS as well as the famous Sunday market of VEGA DE SAN MATEO. This time, we will continue to the far North of Gran canaria to explore its magnificent coastline featuring several prominent coastal communities including PUERTO DE LAS NIEVES and SARDINA.

What used to be rather poor fishing villages in the past have lately seen a significant influx of investment and visitors both local and foreign alike. Puerto de las Nieves, part of the city of AGAETE, in particular has undergone a true renaissance in recent years and nowadays boasts a pristine local Canarian ambience along its seaside promenade "PASEO DE LOS POETAS". Here we find colorful fishermen houses perched together on narrow cliffs, a small harbor full of small colorful fishing vessels, seafood restaurants, craft shops and galleries. In the distance on a clear day we may see the snow-capped peak of Mount Teide on Tenerife, which gave the name Puerto de las Nieves to the community.

Around the main square we find a small chapel featuring the treasure of a 16th century triptych, a Flemish piece of artwork in three parts by Joos Van Cleve depicting the Virgin and Child and carried to AGAETE Parish Church during the annual Fiesta de la Rama. Just past the attractive dark-sanded beach area, we find the DEDO DE DIOS (God´s Finger), a 30 meter pinnacle of basalt rock in front of the cliffs topped by the pine trees of PINAR DE TAMADABA. While the pinnacle was damaged during a recent tropical storm in 2005, it still is a remarkable sight and great photo stop.

After enjoying some tasty local CALDO DE PESCADO fish soup in one of the excellent eateries around the port, we continue our exploration of GRan canaria´s North towards the Lighthouse of SARDINA and the community of the same name. Sardina still ranks among the best kept secrets of the island´s fishing villages. An ideal destination for those seeking great local seafood dishes along with peace and tranquility, Sardina is among the most authentic of communities along the coast here.

Leaving Galdar along local highway GC-202, we pass miles of white tents under which 6 types of bananas are cultivated before reaching Sardina itself. Directly by the port we find the local delicatessen restaurant LA FRAGATA specializing in seafood at reasonable prices. As of late, the coastal promenade of SARDINA has seen an influx of DIVERS on weekends who have discovered the waters around SARDINA as ideal diving territory. While locals are not too happy about the new arrivals, who tend to spend most of their time in the water rather than helping the local economy, the local attraction of diving in and around SARDINA has added publicity to this picturesque fishing village. Exploring the Northern Coastline of Gran Canaria allows visitors to savor a true piece of local Canarian living and culture - a far cry away from the sand beach and sea routine of package-deal tourists in the South.

Market Day in Vega de San Mateo, GC

2011-12-08T05:30:00.001-08:00

In yet another "Treasures off the Beaten Track" contribution on Gran canaria, we shall continue to draw attention away from the mass tourist resorts of the South and offer alternative trajectories to visitors of Gran canaria. As on previous occasions, we shall focus on the island´s capital LAS PALMAS as a gateway and outline several itineraries in the North and Center of Gran Canaria that allow a more insider perspective of local culture and traditions. This holds particularly true to venues frequented by locals and visitors alike, where the constructive dialogue between both leads to greater cultural awareness and a better understanding of the Cultural Other - the Sunday Market Day in Vega de San Mateo is a perfect example of just that.

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To this end, it may be a great idea to get up relatively early on a Sunday and combine a visit to the Market in Vega de San Mateo with a hiking excursion around the island's mountainous center. Numerous small highways veer uphill from the coast towards the highest peak of Gran canaria called PICOS DE LAS NIEVES at almost 2000m (or 7000 ft). A good starting point may be the small community of INGENIO not far from the island's airport. From there, a well-paved highway leads towards great panorama viewpoints of Gran Canaria's Eastern coastline and then enters a stunning area of Basalt rocks of volcanic origin as well as of radical change of climate and vegetation. Whereas many parts of Gran Canaria may remain sunny, it can be overcast and hazy here with considerably lower temperatures and lush vegetation. Here we find mostly Canarian pine introduced to these mountains in the 1950s. On a clear sunny day, it is possible to look from Pico de las Nieves all the way over to Tenerife's Mount Teide (3700m), along with La Palma's Roque de los Muchachos (2500m) the only higher peaks in the entire Canarian archipielago. Much of this mountainous area of Gran canaria's center is nowadays part of a military exercise area but a plateau at the top of Picos de las Nieves is open to the public offering stunning views of the surrounding coastline and the adjacent island of Tenerife. Particularly scenic during a short hike around the mountain peak is the nearby ROQUE NUBLO, a stunning monolith standing out as the island's second highest elevation at 1800 meters (6500 ft).

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Following our hike at the very peak of Picos de las Nieves, we then must follow several curvy smaller highways through pine forests and volcanic rock formations interspersed with cacti and gradually, as traffic increases, we descend towards the North/Northeast and reach the community of VEGA DE SAN MATEO With a population of 7500 inhabitants. The local economy here is still predominantly based on agriculture and farming rather than on tourism -and San Mateo's famous Sunday market remains a focal point of attraction to locals and visitors alike. In fact, many locals from the island's capital Las Palmas make their weekly pilgrimage to San Mateo to buy their week's supplies of groceries here - mostly fresh fruit, vegetables and regional culinary specialties. The high quality of the produce here at reasonable prices makes for good value for money and thus continues to attract local vendors and buyers alike. As for tourists, many come from the island's South by way of organized bus excursions to witness the local flair or San Mateo with its authentic handicrafts and arts.

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Yet Vega de San Mateo has far more to offer than just its weekly Sunday market. Highly worthwhile and recommendable would be a visit to the local museum MUSEO ETNOLOGICO LA CANTONERA. Located inside a 300-year old farmhouse, the museum offers a genuine glimpse at Canarian life throughout history including farming equipment, ceramics and furniture items. Nearby we also find the local parish church with a statue of the community's patron saint St. Matthew from the 17th century. After visiting the market, museum and church, several worthwhile restaurants offer great food at reasonable prices including the local FELIZ DIA Chinese restaurant or the DULCERÍA San Mateo offering local pastries and specialty dishes. Also popular with both locals and visitors is the nearby Restaurante La Veguetilla about 2 blocks away from the buzzing activity of the Sunday market. As we return to Las Palmas at the end of our day in the mountains, we may bask in the assurance to have witnessed a very distinct slice of life on the Canarý islands far away from the sun and beach resorts of the island's over-developed coastline.

Hiking in Alicante Province: El Picatxo of San Cayetano

2011-11-22T10:49:00.001-08:00

In yet another edition of BEYOND THE BEACH, we would like to discover outdoor and hiking opportunities in and around Alicante. Several non-profit groups are dedicated to organizing and executing hiking excursions in the area on a weekly or bi-weekly basis, including Fartets Senderismo Montaña (https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000862676792&sk=info). The regional government of the Comunitat Valenciana and local tourist authorities have even launched another website dedicated to the increasingly popular hiking acivitiy in the Levante region with more information available on www.senderosdealicante.com. Within barely 30 minutes inland from the coast, plentiful hiking routes become available to visitors, many of which yet undiscovered or barely frequented by area locals. It almost seems like leaving the overdeveloped coastal areas around Santa Pola or Benidorm is the safest and most scenic way to avoid mass tourism, seek solitude and soak up the local culture and scenic charm of Alicante Province.

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Among the most accessible and beautiful of local hiking areas ranks the mountain range of San Quetano (San Cayetano) within 20 minutes by car from central Alicante and just outside the UNESCO world-heritage city of Elche. Near the industrial suburb of Crevillente, where ample parking space is available just outside factories empty over the weekend, we gather with other hiking enthusiasts to consolidate cars, since parking further up in the mountain may pose to be challenging. We then proceed from Crevillente along small highways and well-maintained dirt roads to the mountain area of San Quaetano about 5-10 miles Northwest of Crevillente near the villages of San Pascual and Serralba. At the top of the mountain road just before ELS ANOUERS, as far as regular cars are allowed to drive to, we find limited parking space and a picnic area with tables, running water and bathroom facilities (Sant Gaita). From here numerous trails branch off in all directions, among the most popular the 3-4 hour roundtrip hiking trail through the SERRA MITJANA to the peak of EL PICATXO at about 850m above sea level.

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Hiking trails in Central Spain are easy to follow as their trayectory is usually marked clearly with yellow and white bars at strategic points along the way including tree stumps, forks in the road or larger rocks. The trail to EL PICATXO initially is well paved and supported occasionally by hand rails and wooden steps but then increasingly becomes narrower and continues as a rather slippery gravel trail, which may pose a falling hazard particularly during the descent back to the parking area. Increasingly, views open up towards Elche, Crevillente and local villages such as EL BAJÓN and HONDÓN DE LOS FRAILES. We also repeatedly see the water reservoir of EMBALSE DE DON FRANCISCO MIRA CANOVAS immediately to the North.

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The most scenic and rewarding route to EL PICATXO is circular, best approached through and from the SERRA MITJANA and offers gradual ascents and descents, except for a short stretch towards the very peak at 850m, where only one trail leads to in either direction and hikers may congregate in larger numbers to rest, repose or unite for the last leg of the ascent to the top. Here, at a promontary jutting out at 850m, we may enjoy sweeping views of the SIERRA DE CREVILLENTE and the entire Southern Half of Alicante Province, on the very border to Murcia including coastal areas such as Santa Pola, and the UNESCO world-heritage palmgroves of ELCHE and sometimes as far away as the castillo de Santa Barbara in Alicante. The return to the parking and picnic area Sant Gaita is needless to say much faster than the ascent and may take anywhere from 25 to 45 minutes depending on the exact routing and hiking speed. Particular caution may be advised, however, on the gravel trails in the mid-section of La Mitjana in the San Quaetano mountains, as they tend to be slippery irrespective of the quality of hiking boots used.

For planning and executing a hiking adventure in the area, numerous tools are available to visitors, including the website www.senderosdealicante.com mentioned above, but also www.wikiloc.com dedicated to uploading and offering a comprehensive map database in gpx form submitted by members. To this end, modern smartphones offer additional applications to help facilitate, execute and document hiking routes, including ORUXMAPS available for both Apple and Android phones. Recorded routes in GPX format may then be displayed inside ORUXMAPS´' own program or can be exported to MY TRACKS, which works in unison with Google Maps. A gpx route display of above hiking route to EL PICATXO in the SIERRA DE CREVILLENTE may be found at http://en.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=631609.

Beyond Wawel in Krakow

2011-11-10T09:35:00.001-08:00

As the single most important tourist destination in Poland, Krakow attracts millions of visitors annually and as such may hardly count as a well-kept secret. Yet tourism to Malopolskie (Lesser Poland), which is the area in Southern Poland around Krakow, tends to follow set patterns with visitors covering the castle area of Wawel, the Old Town (Stare Miasto) around Rynek Glowny (the Cloth Hall) and the Jewish Quarter of Kazimiersz in Krakow itself as well as the famous saltmines in nearby Wieliczka and of course the memorial site of the infamous Auschwitz concentration camp. Very few visitors venture beyond those boundaries, yet it is precisely the many hidden treasures beyond those highlights that allow Krakow lovers to savor true local culture & appreciate the city from an emic, local perspective.

Local Krakow also centers around Stare Miasto and Rynek Glowny, but moreover includes adjacent newer neighborhoods with locals bypassing the tourist attractions such as the Cloth Hall and St. Mary's church with the famous hourly HEYNAL trumpet call and rush to and from offices and institutions near the Wistula river and the commercial and local transport facilities near Krakow Glowny train station. Here we find an array of modern local attractions such as the spacious Galeria Krakowska Shopping Mall conveniently linked to both the train and bus terminals. Apart from infinite shopping facilities, the venue also has both excellent and inexpensive restaurant choices catering to a variety of tastes from Mexican to Sushi. In winter time, the Galeria Krakowska also allows locals and visitors alike to seek refuge from the harsh cold climate outside.

At the opposite end of Stare Miasto, where we walk the pedestrian zone towards the castle area of Wawel, we find a belt of park area surrounding the Old Town. This is where the former city fortification used to be located, of which nowadays only a few gates remain and beyond which more local Krakow beckons - particularly along the banks of the Vistula river. When the weather is favorable both locals and visitors flock to the embankment promenade to stroll along the Vistula past the famous Wawel DRAGON intermittently spitting out fire as an extra attraction. Another recent addition to the river walk experience is a hot air balloon stationed on the opposite side of the Vistula. With the inscription "Kocham Krakow" (I love Krakow) it offers visitors a special aerial view of Wawel and Old town from the balloon itself.

Heading towards Kazimiersz along this scenic river route takes about twenty minutes and culminates in yet another local commercial playground, the Galeria Kazimiersz. Considerably more quiet and relaxed than its larger mall sibling downtown, it is an ideal venue for a relaxing coffee or meal break and for people watching. Experiencing Krakow in such local ways offers guests an insight into the high quality of life the city offers to its local population nowadays unprecedented to this extent even a mere five or ten years ago. And as I leave Krakow and see the "Kocham Krakow" balloon rise above the Wistula, I too declare "I love Krakow" and vow to return as soon as possible.

Storks in Astorga & Stately Sights too

2011-10-27T01:18:00.001-07:00

There are few small towns in Europe that can surprise visitors as much by their impressive architecture as Astorga, this small community of 15000 inhabitants located in Castilla-Leon along the famous St.James' Way to Santiago de Compostela. Boasting altogether 3 outstanding building complexes, visitors are perplexed and wonder how a small town in Northwestern Spain could be so richly endowed with a Roman city wall, a huge Cathedral and magnificent Bishop's Palace. Of course, the town of Astorga was far more important in Roman and Medieval times than in its present role as provincial capital of Northwestern Castilla-Leon. Ever since its founding as a Roman colony as a stop along the traditional Roman Road network across the Iberian Peninsula, Astorga has always lived in the shadows of Leon and Santiago. Yet its Roman city wall, recently rebuilt to its former splendor, attests to its glory days during its Roman occupation, which also brought a steady military tradition to the area, which is still alive in the form of modern army barracks.

Then in medieval times, Astorga's importance as a religious center and Bishop's seat became ever more prevalent and the construction of the Cathedral got under way in 13th century Gothic style. Yet soon funds ran dry and the Gothic main body of the Cathedral had to wait until the 16th century for a Renaissance-style Belfry to be added. When money ran out once again, the remaining unfinished sections including the main portal were added much later in 18th century Baroque style. For that reason, Astorga cathedral is a hodgepodge of architectural styles and a testimony to the community's stubborn dedication to the construction of its religious masterpiece. The Cathedral interior may at first not be quite as impressive as its counterparts in Leon or Santiago, but upon closer inspection, a huge wooden altar and transept appear that are simply mindboggling. Both woodcarved masterpieces from the Renaissance period, the altar in particular is vastly reminiscent of Tillman Riemenschneider's masterful creations in Rothenburg o.d.Tauber in Germany, yet may even be larger, more colorful and thus more overwhelming than Riemenschneider's work. Astorga's Cathedral altar thus comes as a big unexpected surprise to visitors given the otherwise austere and plain interior of the building.

We later venture across the street to the city's magnificent Bishop's Palace from the late 19th century, among Antonio Gaudi's most controversial early creations. Legend says that Gaudi purposefully toned down the architectural extravagance of the building, but was nonetheless booed out by locals during its inauguration. Spanish Guitar music can usually be heard from the steps of the Bishop's Palace, which nowadays houses the highly interesting Pilgrims' Museum of the St.James' Way where we learn more about the legends, traditions and objectives behind pilgrimages coming through Astorga en route to Santiago in Galicia. And for those who feel the museum there is not filled enough with religious artifacts, the nearby Diocesian Museum beckons, which forms part of the Cathedral complex and may be seen as part of a combination ticket covering all 3 sights.

We then proceed to nearby CAFE GAUDI with a splendid old-fashioned interior and an inviting terrace outside. Here we can indulge in delicious local specialties such as the muffin-like MANTECADA cake, or local BISCOCHOS, more coffee cake than biscuit as well as various chocolate specialties. Astorga looks back at centuries of chocolate-making tradition, the fruit of which may be sampled and purchased at various venues in and around the Cathedral and Bishop's Palace. Here too we find Castillian specialty stores offering anything from local wine, cheese and bakery products. Finally, as we head further afield in our explorations of Spain's best kept secret, its Northwest, we witness numerous smaller communities near Astorga that have village churches with impressive storks' nests, attesting to the region's pivotal role as stork breeding grounds and transit points for large flocks of storks flying from Europe further South.

The Best of Croatia...in Hvar!

2011-10-13T01:07:00.001-07:00

Croatian Tourism Authorities have been advertising with the slogan "The Mediterranean as it once was" - and featured on billboards and in commercials we usually find some sights from Dubrovnik, Korcula and...Hvar. As the fourth most popular destination for visitors in Croatia, the island of Hvar is undeniably beautiful and yet not overly exploited touristically, stretching with its green bushes from one side of blue sea to another with the blue sky in between. Jagged inlets mark the coastline, while in the center we find a central ridge featuring long grey lines of limestone heaps, built by farmers over many centuries in their efforts to gain arable land for cultivation. This landscape was declared a UNESCCO world heritage site in 2008 as among the best preserved ancient Greek landscape in the Mediterranean. Lavender used to be among the most popular crops until fire reduced its cultivation recently. Yet anything made from lavender, pouches of potpouri or bottles of lavender oil still remain among the most popular gifts to purchase here.

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Hvar was initially settled by the Greeks around 385 BC naming their first settlement Pharos, which is nowadays the beautiful small town of STARI GRAD in the center of the island. It houses a small yet ornate Dominican monastery founded in 1482 - mass there on a Sunday makes for an unforgettable experience. The monastery also features the painting The Interment of Christ by Tintoretto, a 17th century crucifix and two works by Venetian artist Gianbattista Crespi. Following periods of Roman and Byzantine rule, the island was later settled by Croatian Tribes who changed its name from Pharos to Hvar. By 1420, the island fell under Venetian Rule and was subsequently raided by the Ottoman Turks in 1571. Many island residents had to watch from the Spaniola Fortress above Hvar town how their belongings and dwelling were torched by the Turks - most buildings in Hvar town were actually rebuilt after the Turkish invasion.

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Nowadays tourism on the island centers around Hvar town and the surrounding Pakleni islands, the most popular of which are Jerolim and Stipanska. Both feature beautiful naturist beaches and rocky coastline with lush vegetation on the islands themselves. Thus Hvar is a popular destination for both pro-active visitors wishing to engage in fishing, sailing or mountain biking and sunworshippers who wish to take advantage of the island´s ideal climate with over 2715 hours of sunlight a year. Regular boat service connects Hvar town and the Pakleni Islands at reasonable prices starting at about 50 HRK round trip. The last boats to return to Hvar town usually leave around 7pm during the summer peak.

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Hvar town, dominated by beautiful buildings from Venetian rule, is easy to get around with activity centering on St. Stephen´s square (Sveti Stepan) with its beautiful Cathedral. From there the city spreads in two directions either uphill towards the fortress, in the protective shadows of which noblemen used to live, and in the opposite direction towards the sea, formerly the living quarters of humble peasants and fishermen. No visit to Hvar is ever complete without witnessing the magnificent panorama of Hvar town and the Pakleni islands from high above Spaniola Fortress, dating back to the 13th century and finished by Spanish in the 14th century, giving it the nickname "Spaniola". Watching the cruiseships and small vessels in the bay of Hvar from up there, it truly feels like a magical place, yet unspoilt by mass tourism and overdevelopment. We can only hope it may stay preserved in its present form for many more generations to come.

Living the good life in Spain: León

2011-09-29T04:26:00.001-07:00

Arriving here from Madrid or from the Picos de Europa National Park, LEÓN, the capital of the Autonomous Spanish Community of Castille-Leon, seems a little lost in the middle of nowhere, but upon arrival in the city itself, it feels like the center of the universe, its own universe of Spain in a nutshell. Leon does not receive huge amounts of tourists, and those that do come to town are here usually for the St. James' Way, the famous pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela - from Leon it is a convenient week to walk through Castille-Leon and Galicia to Santiago - perfect for visitors and pilgrims alike. Many Spaniards also know the name LEON along with nearby Burgos as the places in Spain with the highest temperatures during the summer and among the lowest in winter. Yet within a few hours in this gem of a Spanish city, it becomes clear that LEON warrants worthy mention and a visit in its own right offering various attractions, first and foremost its magnificent GOTHIC CATHEDRAL.

Locals are justifiablty proud of their city - while the rest of Spain is undergoing serious economic hardship with over 20% unemployment in many parts, LEON continues to thrive and boom. Much of its economy is based on the finance and service sector, earning the city the nickname "Spanish Switzerland" some years ago. Thus a walk around LEON is also an introduction into the Best Spain has to offer - and what Spain COULD be like if the economy were to perform better nation-wide. We start our discovery of Leon near the central PLAZA DE SANTIAGO, from which we walk the main pedestrian street of CALLE ANCHA towards Leon Cathedral. At the adjacent square PLAZA DEL OBISPO MARCELO we find the late 19th century CASA DE BOTINES built by none other than ANTONIO GAUDI from 1891-94- his earlier work was much more conservative than his later projects in Barcelona and beyond, but the CASA DE BOTINES still dominates the square and its surroundings by way of its extraordinary architecture. In front of the building itself, we find a recent cast-iron sculpture of GAUDI sitting on a park bench and overlooking his controversial masterpiece.

As we proceed along CALLE ANCHA, we are also impressed by the many flowers decorating windows here, a city-wide project sponsored by the municipal administration and local government. We then arrive at Leon's magnificent Gothic Cathedral, built within only 50 years from 1280-1330. By way of its beauty and architectural purity it only rivals the Sainte Chapelle in Paris or the Cathedral of Chartres. Featuring pointed arches, flying butresses and spectacular stained glass windows, Leon Cathedral is Gothic Art at its best. Here we learn about the VIRGIN OF THE DICE legend, according to which a young Flemish soldier was converted here after he lost his fortunes at a local pub gambling with dice and in his fury threw the set of dice against the Virgin Mary, who subsequently began to bleed. He took the incident as a call to change his ways and became a monk shortly thereafter. Leon Cathedral is also a great place to study the art of Stained Glass windows themselves, those of smaller size being originals dating back to the 13th century and windows with larger pieces of stained glass produced much later in the 18th and 19th century.

We then leave Cathedral square to head towards PLAZA MAYOR at the heart of Leon's nightlife and entertainment district, the so-called "BARRIO HUMEDO" (Moist Quarter) - here we find the highest number of bars and restaurants in town. Visitors and locals alike enjoy flocking to the BARRIO HUMEDO to enjoy drinks and complimentary TAPAS, the tradition of which is still alive and well here in Leon.In recent years, the area has also become more upscale with various higher-end restaurants and wine bars catering to a more affluent clientele. And then, beyond the Old Town and Barrio Humedo, LEON also has lots of attractions to offer - starting from the magnificent Renaissance-era PLATERESQUE facade of the Parador de San Marcos (16th century), nowadays among the few 5-star accomodations in town, a walk along the scenic Bernesga River beckons. As we proceed past the Government Building of Castilla-Leon as far as the local shopping malls of PLAZA LEON or even further, the more modern Centro Comercial ESPACIO LEON, the overall impression is one of a city at perfect peace with itself and its role in the world as a quintessential slice of Spain.

Exploring the charms of Kotor, Montenegro

2011-09-15T00:02:00.001-07:00

Among the destinations along the Adriatic coast, Montenegro remains a rather exotic choice for visitors. Following the war on the Balkans and years of transition as part of the loose federation of "Serbia and Montenegro", the area has only recently started experimenting with independence, officially becoming the Republic of Montenegro in 2006 and using the EURO as its official currency. Consequently, tourism here is yet far less developed than in neighboring countries such as Croatia or Italy. Yet for that very reason, sailing into the Bay of Kotor and exploring the coastline of Montenegro remains a unique exotic and enriching experience for visitors with memories bound to last a lifetime.

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The town of Kotor is located in the most secluded part of the Boka Kotorska (Bay of Kotor), among the most indented parts of the Adriatic Sea and often called the "southernmost Fjord of Europe". Some geologists have suggested, however, that the Bay of Kotor may in fact be a submerged river bed. With a population of about 15 000 Kotor has become a moderately busy seaside resort with a highly picturesque and well-preserved Old Town. Between 1420 and 1797, Kotor and surroundings were under the influence of the Republic of Venice and Venetian architecture remains among the dominant styles to be found around the Old Town. The city is surrounded by an impressive medieval city wall, well preserved and protected by UNESCO. The wall varies in thickness between 6 and 50 feet at an average height of 65 feet. Although most of the wall was built during Venetian rule in the 17th and 18th century, some parts date back as early as the 9th century.

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Towards the dock area, we find the main gate to cross under the city wall into Old Town Kotor. What awaits us here are cobble-stone squares and narrow alleyways with assymetric structures along with impressive historic monuments, of which the Cathedral of St. Tryphon and the region's Maritime Museum may merit special attention. Due to the well-preserved nature of monuments and the architectural homogeneity of Kotor as a medieval gem, the city was placed under UNESCO protection and takes pride in preserving its culturo-historic heritage. Towards the back of the Old Town, we find the 1500 stairs that lead up to the Fortress of Kotor. Upon payment of 3 Euros admission, visitors are treated to magnificent views over the town and Bay of Kotor, as with each set of steps, new vistas and impressions present themselves. The hike up to the fortress and back into town may last anywhere between 40 and 60 minutes depending on speed and rest times.

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Finally, nothing may be more memorable than sailing forth from the city into the Bay of Kotor. For centuries, this Bay marked the border between Venetian and Ottoman rule and Habsburg and Serb territory respectively. It ranks among the most scenic stretches of coastline anywhere in the Mediterranean, featuring the small islands of St. George's with its monastery and the artificial island of Our Lady of the Rock with its magnificent church. Against the backdrop of the small coastal town of PERAST and the high black mountains that give the name to the country of Montenegro, sailing past these two islands en route to the narrow Strait of Verige and the open Adriatic Sea, remains among the most special experiences of any visit in this part of the Mediterranean.

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Discovering Donostia, San Sebastian!

2011-09-01T03:54:00.001-07:00

It is usually overcast and dreary upon arrival in the Basque Lands - after all, such lush green vegetation needs its fair share of rain to prosper and bloom. Yet in such coastal microclimate, matters may change quickly, giving way to brilliant sunshine and warmth, during which San Sebastian, the region's uncontested resort gem, reveals its true magic and allure. From nowhere else can the city's blessed geographical layout and urban charm be appreciated better than from MOUNT IGUELDO, where a fortress-turned-theme park invites visitors to admire a splendid view over LA CONCHA Bay with its white-washed beach and its upscale turn-of-the-century resort hotels. It conjures up images of Nice in France or even a Mini-Rio of sorts with Mount Urgull as San Sebastian's sugar cane, but no comparison to others does the city justice, as it exudes a distinct air of its own, on the cusp of French and Spanish cultures and yet a quintessential example of Basque identity with all its mystery and charm.

As we enter the inner city of Donostia, as San Sebastian is called in Basque, it becomes obvious that this is an affluent community, and much more sedate today than during its glory days over a century ago. We are briefly reminded of the same air of by-gone glory of places such as Lucerne, Switzerland or Biarritz further North in France, but we quickly realize Donostia is in a league of its own attracting young and old, rich and poor, visitors and locals alike in a neverending array of activities surrounding the sea, its culinary traditions and unique Basque language and culture. With only 180 000 inhabitants, it ranks third in the Basque lands behind Bilbao and the capital Vittoria, but it is the unrivaled superstar of the region, boasting among the highest real estate prices in Spain even during these turbulent economic times, and hosting a series of not-to-miss cultural events throughout the year such as its famous Jazz festival in the summer or the San Sebastian Film Festival in September.

Near the URUMEA river dividing the city into 2 neighborhoods with their respective beaches, we find the most exclusive set of buildings in Donostia, including the century-old Victoria Eugenia Theater and its twin, the prestigious MARIA CRISTINA Hotel. During the annual Film Festival, this is where movie stars may stroll between the two buildings, and sometimes they get lost at nearby OQUENDO bar and cafe - in which case they may be immortalized by a picture and autograph on the venue's wall of fame. OQUENDO is a great place to start savoring one of the most unique and enjoyable Basque activities - a TXIKITEO - sort of like a pub-crawl but WITHOUT becoming inebriated. Combining the region's social and culinary traditions, a txikiteo involves enjoyment of Basque tapas called PINTXOS - often true works of art occupying every inch of counter space at local bars and restaurants. The highest density of pintxos may be found in Donostia's OLD TOWN, where pedestrianized streets around Constitution square invite locals and visitors alike to bar-hop from one round of pintxos to the next, flushing them down with local SIDRA (cider) or better still, the local young white wine known as TXAKOLI.

Attesting to the Basques' great gastronomical traditions, San Sebastian boasts the highest per-capita number of Michelin stars in Europe with the city awash in great eateries for every budget including the high-end much-appraised restaurants ARZAK, Martin Berasategui and Akelarre. Yet in the Old Town great food may be found at much lower prices with virtually every street near the local BRETXA market filled with restaurants (Bodegon Alejandro & Juanito Kojua are among our favorites), pintxo bars and men-only GASTRONOMICAL ASSOCIATIONS, another unique feature in Euskadi, as the region is known in Basque. Adjacent to the OLD TOWN and separated by Donostia's main throughfare, AVENIDA DE LA LIBERTAD, we find the new town with its Neo-Gothic Cathedral, which was homogenously built in the 19th century during the resort town's boom years. Here we find modern San Sebastian filled with shops and department stores including the SAN MARTIN mall, a popular gathering and meeting place for locals and visitors alike.

Yet nothing reveals the magic of Donostia better than a walk along its 2 famous beaches, both spectacular yet so highly different. LA CONCHA beach, truly resembling a seashell in its shape, is most popular with tourists and senior beachgoers - it thus exudes a quieter and more relaxed beach ambience than its busy local counterpart, LA ZURRIOLA beach on the other side of the URUMEA river. LA CONCHA beach lends itself to extended seafront walks with great views from nearby MIRAMAR palace and is perfect for swimming in the quiet waters of the protected bay, making the spot ideal for families with small children as well, LA ZURRIOLA, by contrast, located just behind Donostia's modern convention center, is exposed to the open BAY OF BISCAY, part of the Atlantic, and as such better suited for surfing and adventure swimming. ZURRIOLA beach thus attracts a mostly young and local crowd - a perfect hangout to spend time with friends, learn more about Basque culture and watch families do their after-dinner strolls. And although Castillian Spanish is widely spoken, a few words of Basque - this mysterious strange language unrelated to any other, may help make new local friends. So knowing a few words of EUSKARA (Basque), such as KAIXO (hello) and AGUR (BYE), is a great sign of good etiquette in this region so justifiably proud of its unique cultural, linguistic and gastronomical legacy.

Beyond St. James' way in Santiago de Compostela

2011-08-18T01:36:00.001-07:00

Few places are more transient than Santiago de Compostela - day in, day out, pilgrims from all over Europe walk through Porta do Camino and arrive at Praza do Obradeiro in front of Santiago's magnificent cathedral to finish weeks and sometimes months of pilgrimage. In addition, many tourists from around the world flock to Santiago to admire its monuments and to learn more about the pilgrimage route of St. James' way, the origins of which go back to just after the birth of Christ. And yet, because or may be inspite of the pilgrimage theme, Santiago is radically different from other, more traditional tourist destinations. It retains a special air of spiritual depth, peace, tranquility and an atmosphere unique to any place considered sacred.

It all started with the Legend of St. James, the disciple who left the Holy Land to land on the shores of Galicia in what is nowadays Northwestern Spain to christianize these pagan lands. Only after he successfully slayed a dragon was he allowed to embark on his religious mission, often discouraged and demoralized. Twice, according to legend, did the Virgin Mary appear to him - once as an apparition in Galicia and once in Zaragoza in what was to be known as the Virgin of the Pillar (Virgen del Pilar) miracle. Upon his return to the Holy Land, he was killed and his body returned to Galicia by boat by his disciples Anastasio and Teodoro. According to legend, a huge storm threatened the vessel and from a nearby wedding, the groom entered the water to help rescue the boat, and a miracle took place with the storm subsiding immediately and all parties emerging from the water covered in scallop shells, since then the official symbol of St. James' Way. Yet it was not until the year 813, when a field of stars was witnessed by a hermit called Pelagio, who led the local bishop to the venue and the tombs of St. James and both his disciples were discovered there. On that very spot, first a chapel and later a cathedral were constructed - and the pilgrimage route of the Camino de Santiago was born.

This much for the legend - much has changed since the Middle Ages, when clerics and criminals from all over Europe made weeks and months of long pilgrimages en route to Santiago de Compostela. Nowadays, the religious motif for pilgrimage has become less prevalent, but the route itself remains highly popular. Often pilgrims venture to Santiago for reasons of self-discovery or spiritual renewal, or to mark significant turning points in their lives. Santiago de Compostela today is a booming young university town of 120 000 inhabitants with over 30 000 students. And it boasts life beyond the St. James' way - equally worth savoring for visitors and locals alike. Tourist activity centers around PRAZA DO OBRADEIRO featuring Santiago's impressive Cathedral, the front facade ranking among the finest examples of Spanish Baroque style, called CHURRIGUERESQUE. On the same square we also find the oldest hotel in the world, the magnificent PARADOR REYES CATOLICOS originally founded by the Catholic Monarchs Isabel and Ferdinand in the late 15th century as an inn for pilgrims. Santiago's busiest tourist street, RUA DO FRANCO leads from the Cathedral to the city park, which then connects to the modern city. From the park, magnificent views over central Santiago may be enjoyed.

Yet beyond the tourist areas of central Santiago, more hidden treasures await those that invest time and effort to find them. Much less crowded than RUA DO FRANCO and yet just as charming are the other pedestrian streets of Old Town including Rua do Vilar, Rua Nova and Rua das Orfas. With every side street further away from the Cathedral, interesting local shops and cafes appear with prices far lower than in main tourist areas and many handicrafts locally made in Galicia including the SAGRADELO porcelain. A well-kept secret too is RUA DA TROIA with its many bars, restaurants and pubs featuring TAPAS and local specialties such as CALDO GALLEGO, the local soup, and TARTA DE SANTIAGO, the famous St. James' almond cake. Among the most popular bars on RUA DA TROIA we find ATLANTICO, made famous by Goya-winning actor Luis Tosar. And finishing a tapa pub crawl through the old town with a walk around Santiago at night, ending back up at Praza do Obradeiro while listening to the street musicians, we really get a feel for how special this sacred city really is - retaining its magic and unique allure over all these centuries since the early days of the legend of St. James.

Approaching Andorra in La Seu d'Urgell

2011-08-04T07:42:00.001-07:00

High up in the Pyrenee mountains we find the Principality of Andorra - a miniature country of 75000 inhabitants famous for duty-free shopping and winter sports. While Andorra with its focus on commercial activity and lack of historic artifacts, may be a poor choice for visitors seeking local charm, history and culture, the adjacent town of LA SEU D'URGELL about 10 miles south in Catalonia, has all the ingredients of a perfect tourist destination and one that has to date been a well-kept secret hidden in the Pyrenees of Northern Spain.

While the region of Alt Urgell, just south of the border to France and Andorra, has traditionally been economically underdeveloped, La Seu was fortunate enough to have a savvy mayor in the early 1990s that managed to convince officials at the Olympics to choose the Segre river in La Seu for their water rafting and canooing competitions. What was to follow was the construction of the Segre Olympic Complex with millions of euros of investment by the EU, the Catalan government and the Olympic Committee, whereby the Segre river was rerouted, canalized and perfect rafting and canooing facilities were created and then used extensively during the 1992 Barcelona Olympics. The economic boon of the Olympic games can still be felt today almost 2 decades later, as La Seu evolved from a sleepy neglected back-water community to an active gateway to the Pyrenee Mountains and a perfect stopover for visitors en route to Andorra and on to France.

A visit to La Seu thus ideally starts at the Segre Olympic Complex, nowadays a popular resort and recreation terrain for the local population. Upon crossing the park, a staircase leads from the Segre river into the pedestrianized Old Town of La Seu - with moderate commercial and tourist activity - slightly above-average for a regional capital of 15000. The city is rich in town houses from the Middle Ages featuring cozy arcades to protect visitors and locals alike from the frequent rain and snow in the winter. Otherwise the region is blessed with a micro-climate of above-average sunshine and steady moderate to high temperatures in the spring and summer, as the Alt Urgell valley runs from East to West and thus remains mostly unaffected by low-pressure systems from the Pyrenees.

About half way down the pedestrian street we turn right and arrive at the PATI DEL PALAU, a small square in front of the Bishop's Palace - it is here that we hear about La Seu's unique relationship to Andorra - as the Bishop of La Seu since the 12th century has been a co-prince of Andorra along with the President of France. For that reason, the Bishop's Palace features the code of arms of Andorra on its walls. The name "La Seu d'Urgell" means "Seat of Urgell", a native Iberian tribe that settled along the lowest of the 5 passes over the Pyrenees precisely in the location where La Seu is located today. Initial wealth was based on tax income for trade over the mountain pass and that in turn filled the coffers of the city of La Seu, which became an influential bishopry in the area.

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Testimony to that wealth is La Seu's impressive late-Romanesque Cathedral of Santa Maria d'Urgell, featuring first examples of stained glass windows, more elaborate ornamentations and decorations than found in earlier Catalan Romanesque style. Among the decorations, knobs along the cathedral pillars stand out. They symbolize loafs of bread, as the present building dates back to the early 12th century (1116), a time when the region just successfully survived serious famine and celebrated the supply of enough bread and food for all. Some frescoes and paintings equally survived, but most were taken away to be displayed at the Romanesque Art Museum in Barcelona. A few examples of Romanesque statues and wall paintings, however, may be admired at the highly interesting Diocesian Museum inside the Cathedral cloister.

Towards the Altar we find the transept on the left dedicated to SAINT ERMENGOL, the town's patron saint who intitiated construction of the original cathedral consecrated in 1040. He built many bridges and roads in the area during the 11th century and died in 1035 falling off the Pont de Bar bridge, which he inspected. The altar stone in the front dates back to the first building on this site almost 2000 years ago and is nowadays covered by a yellow cloth. As we leave the Cathedral complex of La Seu, we are impressed by the historic legacy and beauty of the region of ALT URGELL and its relative lack of visitors making for a true peaceful immersion experience to local Catalan culture for any visitor to this charming area.

Catalan Culture in Cardona

2011-07-21T11:54:00.001-07:00

Most visitors to Catalonia hardly make it past Barcelona - unless they are package-deal beach tourists along the Costa Brava further North. Few if any tend to venture inland to explore the local charms of small-town Catalonia - it is here, however, where visitors would stand their best chance of savoring true Catalan hospitality and enjoying a first-hand introduction to local Catalan living. Among the most scenic communities in this part of Catalonia we find the small town of CARDONA, gateway to the Catalan Pyrenee mountains - located about half-way between Barcelona and the tiny nation state of Andorra.

Towering above the small town of 6000 is Cardona's Castle and Church, significant as a symbol of the RECONQUISTA from Moorish domination. This ranks among the best preserved PARADORS in Northern Spain along the historic religious pilgrimage route of St. James' Way towards Santiago de Compostela. From the very early origins of pilgrimage to Santiage we find here Cardona's St. Vincent Church built by Visigoth King Wilfred in the early 10th century. As such, it represents a prototype of early Catalan Romanesque architecture featuring Carolingian influences in the apse, transept, lanterns and its tribune along with early Southern Romanesque "experimentation".

In this respect, Cardona's church also aptly illustrates how architecture evolved over the centuries and even within the Romanesque style itself. In the 10th century, approaches to building were still based on roman numerals rather than arabic numbers and as such lead to rather basic and less specific constructions entirely devoid of decorations and ornaments. The main focus back then was clearly on the structural integrity of the building with only the later Romanesque style opening venues for artistic experimentation within the architecture itself.

As part of the famous pilgrimage route along St. James' way, St. Vincent Church along with the adjacent Castle and Parador of Cardona are also great examples of how the collective experience of travel is quite similar today as it was about 1000 years ago - with elements of dwelling in travel, notions of hospitality and protection and in turn, the Parador's attempt to make visitors feel welcome in order to dedicate time and funds to a longer sojourn here. Although the tradition of PARADORES in Spain only dates back in its present form to 1928, the very same venue served for many centuries as a popular overnight stop for pilgrims on their way to Santiago.

As a powerful sign of Cardona's important role as a religious site, we find the scallop shells above the Altar in the Church - the very symbol of the St. James' Way to Santiago de Compostela. Underneath the Altar we find the crypt, which is empty nowadays, as the remnants of St. Vincent have since been moved to another church in central Cardona. So following a visit to St. Vincent Church and the castle museum, a stroll from the Parador into central Cardona also beckons, enabling visitors to experience first-hand how an entire community began to evolve in the shadows of the town's magnificent Church and Castle grounds.

Exploring Enchanting Santillana del Mar

2011-07-07T11:06:00.001-07:00

Most visitors to Spain would not envision the Iberian Peninsula as a lush green and mountainous place. Yet the Northern part of Spain rivals Austria and Switzerland in terms of alpine-like scenic beauty, boasting rich pastures and forests on lower elevations as well as mountain peaks reaching almost 10000 feet inside the "Picos de Europa" National Park. Here in the Autonomous Communities of Cantabria and Asturias visitors are surprised to find landscapes unlike anywhere else in Spain along with relatively low numers of visitors compared to the tourist areas along the Mediteranean.

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Among the most enchanting villages in Nortern Spain we find the town of Santillana del Mar, just outside Cantabria's attractive capital, Santander. A quaint and picturesque community of 1500 inhabitants, Santillana has become a boom town in recent years attracting mostly local Spanish visitors on weekends and during holidays. The town's name, in fact, implies two lies, as St. Juliana is no longer regarded a saint, and the village is not located directly by the sea but rather ten miles inland. Santillana's original claim to fame are the cave paintings in the Cuevas de Altamira, testimony of the earliest life on the Iberian peninsula going back to pre-historic times. While the caves themselves are no longer open to the general public, Santillana has a highly interesting museum dedicated to the Altamira caves and their role in the earliest settlements on the Iberian peninsula.

The town itself boasts beautiful stone houses typical of Cantabria along with local specialty shops selling handmade goods and Cantabrian specialties. Near the village center we also find the Order of the Sisters Clarita with a small bakery that sells homemade cookies to the general public to support the local community. The order also houses the area's Diocesian Museum featuring vast examples of religious art and artifacts. Museum lovers will equally appreciate the Inquisition Museum with its interesting display of medieval torture instruments.

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By far the nicest ensemble of architectural uniform stone houses may be found around Santillana's central square PLAZA RAMÓN PELAYO with the stone palais of Aguila-Parra, nowadays the local Parador. The square is equally embellished by two impressive medieval towers, las TORRES MERINO & DON BORJA respectively. Exploring this gem of a Cantabrian small town off-season and preferably mid-week would provide an ideal introduction to the local charm and authenticity of Santillana, which fortunately has so far resisted overdevelopment and yet remains to be discovered by most international visitors.

On the trails of Marco Polo in Korčula, Croatia

2011-06-24T01:10:00.001-07:00

Confidence in tourism to Croatia has been on the rebound since the devastating war on the Balkans in the 1990s. Tourist Authorities in Croatia have been trying hard to restore Croatia's image as a desireable tourist destination rather than a war zone, and the effects can increasingly be felt all along the Adriatic Coast. Visitor numbers are up, but with the exception of Dubrovnik and possibly Split, most of Croatia's spectacular Adriatic coastline remains as yet underrated and thus perfect as a treasure-off-the-beaten-track destination. This particularly holds true to the many islands along Croatia's Dalmatian coast - among the most beautiful of which ranks KORčULA, or Korkyra Melaina (Black Corfu), as it was called by the Greeks, the island's first settlers.

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Arriving to Korčula by ship, guests are amazed at the scenic location of Korčula town on a small peninsula jutting out towards the blue Adriatic Sea. From afar we can see the leaning tower of Korčula's St. Mark's cathedral, built mostly in the 15th century. The island is covered by dense conifer woods including pine and cypress along with olive plantations and vast areas of heather and herbs. The unspoilt waters around Korčula are vital breeding grounds for various varieties of fish, crabs, octopus and squids. On the island itself, fauna abounds with jackals, called cagalj here, mongooses, wild boar, pheasants and hares. Unsurprisingly, agriculture still ranks as the most important economic activity, although tourism now ranks a close second.

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As we explore Korčula Town, a small picturesque community of less than 6000 inhabitants, we are reminded of the island's rich cultural heritage as manifested among others by its long shipbuilding tradition. "Kalafati" and "Maranguni" were the terms for woodworkers and craftsmen in ship construction, terms still used to the present day in Korčula's local dialect. In centuries past, when wooden boats and ships were popular, Korčula reached fame all around the Eastern Mediterranean for the quality of local shipbuiding. Likewise, stone masonry and cutting has a long tradition on Korčula and dates back to the days of the Illyrians, who began using local stone quarries on the island. Both shipbuilding and stone masonry have been on the decline, but Korčula still boasts rich examples of workmanship for both throughout the island.

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A unique cultural phenomenon is the tradition of Korčula's Moreska Dance, a traditional sword dance and drama common in the Mediterranean in the 12th and 13th century. Originally thought to have come from Spain to symbolize the conflict between Moors and Christians, Korčula is nowadays the only place in Europe where the Moreska Dance is still performed. The dance involves a red and a black king fighting over a princess with the performance centered around seven circles featuring seven different sword dances. At the end, the Black King is conquered and the Princess happily returned to her beloved Red King.

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As we stroll along the narrow cobble-stoned alleys of Korčula Town, we also learn that the island is presumed to be the birthplace of Marco Polo, the world's alleged first world traveller from the 13th century. At that time, Korčula was under Venetian rule and was called "Curzola", making claims for Marco Polo's origins here plausible. Yet the persona of Marco Polo has been shrouded in mystery, since no official documents indicate he hailed from Korčula, and many scholars even doubt he ever made his way over to China in the late 13th century. Yet throughout Korčula we find claims to fame of the island as Marco Polo's place of birth. Irrespective of such claims, Korčula ranks among the most special and scenic places in the Eastern Mediterranean - a true oasis of unspoilt nature, fascinating local culture and a slow pace of life that makes visitors fall in love with the island almost instantly.

Impressions of Croatia & Montenegro

2011-06-10T09:46:00.001-07:00

A prelude to blogs to come over the next few weeks...

Perast and Our Lady of the Rocks, Kotor Bay, Montenegro

View over Kotor Bay from St. John's Fortress

Sunset over Korcula, Croatia

More impressions coming up soon...please stand by...

Summer in the City - Baths and Beyond in Budapest

2011-06-05T10:03:00.001-07:00

As we are approaching the hottest time of year and everyone is seeking relief at beaches, pools and lakes, we are reminded once again, how very blessed we are to live in a city like Budapest, where 123 thermal springs are bubbling underneath the surface. While most tourists may focus on the Gellert Hotel & Spa with its magnificent Art Nouveau architecture or the large SZECHENY baths in the Varosliget City Park, the very venue where the famous picture was taken of 2 old men playing chess in the pool, few visitors venture further afield to discover the extensive thermal bathing options in and around the Hungarian capital. Yet savoring a visit to a nearby indoor or outdoor pool - particularly slightly further in the suburbs, may provide both relief from the hot summer weather as well as a worthwhile glimpse into local Hungarian culture, an integral part of which is the long tradition of thermal spas in the country.

Assuming the weather is not cooperating and it happens to be a rainy day in Budapest, there are a few indoor pool options far superior to the Gellert or Szecheny baths. In particular, Budapest's authentic Turkish baths from the 16th century beckon, most notably the RUDAS spa, conveniently located on the Buda side near the Elisabeth Bridge and renovated 5 years ago. While weekends and most nights are mixed for both men and women, Tuesday afternoon is for women only and other weekday afternoons are exclusively for men. Both hydro and traditional massages may also be arranged. As alternatives to Rudas, there is also the smaller and less-crowded KIRALY (King) bath on the Buda Side originally built by Arslan, the Pasha of Buda, in 1565.

There are also a few outdoor baths that operate year-round by covering their main pool with a sort of winter-proof tent and by offering additional wellness services such as steam baths or Finnish Saunas. Such baths include the scenically appealing CSILLAGHEGY (Starhill) pool on the HEV line between Budapest and Szentendre, as well as the DAGALY bath in North Pest near the Arpad Hid metro station. The latter two pools are by far quieter and more locally authentic than the crowded and overpublicized Gellert and Szecheny spas - and both offer ample opportunities for swimming, sun bathing and thermal spa treatments.

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Finally, May to September sees the operation of summer-only outdoor seasonal pools, of which two merit particular mention. The ROMAI bath on the Obuda side dates back, as the name suggests, to Roman times with the local springs there honored back then as a sanctuary, which recent archeological findings have confirmed. Since its restoration in 1964 and modernisation of pools in 2000, Romai furdo ranks among the locals' favorite summer hangout.

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Nothing, however, can beat the popularity of Budapest's largest and most extensive outdoor pool, the famous Palatinus spa on the Margaret Island, the green lung of the city. Here we find numerous recreational pool facilities including medicinal spas, lap pools as well as wave and hydro massage installations. In addition, Palatinus boasts extensive food selections as well as men-only and women-only sun-tanning terraces. Originally built in 1919 and extended in the 1920s and late 1930s, Palatinus still preserves its architectural layout (as seen, for instance, in a 1930s promotional film on Budapest) and has since seen modernisation of its pool facilities in 2002. During the peak of summer, including school holidays and the famous August 20th St. Stephen's Day, Palatinus is host to numerous seasonal events including Foam and Club Pool parties. And nothing beats swimming laps in refreshingly cool thermal water, rather than in chlorine-enriched standard pools. For that reason, a visit to any of Budapest's extensive thermal pools provides summer relief, relaxation and a true introduction to local Hungarian spa culture.

Savoring Moravian delights in Olomouc

2011-05-18T04:56:00.001-07:00

Most locals in the Southeastern Czech Republic would agree that BRNO may be the administrative capital of Moravia, but the spirit and soul of the region may be found in Olomouc. University town and UNESCO world heritage site, this city of 100 000 has many a hidden gem and surprise in store for visitors. On previous occasions, I have had guests from abroad inquire immediately into the cost of living in Olomouc, as they had instantly fallen in love with the city and were looking into retirement there. And the lack of tourists makes the charms of Olomouc even more appealing, turning the town into a well-kept secret for those visitors brave enough to venture further afield in Czech lands than Prague or Cesky Krumlov.

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Driving to Olomouc is easy, with the city located roughly half way on the Krakow to Prague route. It thus lends itself for a perfect stopover and may be discovered in as little as a few hours, with most sights conveniently located inside the pedestrianized old town. Approaching the city center from the ring road along TR. SVOBODY, we first stroll towards DOLNI NAMESTI - the lower square, featuring a magnificent MARIAN statue common in this part of Central Europe to commemorate the end of the Black Plague in the 17th century. The MARIANSKY column is flanked on both sides by beautiful fountains, the NEPTUNE and JUPITER fountains respectively. Unlike many other cities in the region, Olomouc authorities decided to preserve their wealth of water fountains, many dating back as early as the 18th century, and to even build new ones, which no longer serve the original purpose of water supply to the town, but help to enhance the overall architectural beauty and cityscape of this Moravian gem.

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Dolni Namesti and the Marian column, however, are only a taste of what is yet to come, the true highlight of Olomouc - the famous UNESCO world heritage site of the HOLY TRINITY COLUMN located in the very heart of the UPPER SQUARE, HORNY Namesti adjacent to the magnificent town hall, originally from the 14th century and rebuilt in Baroque style in the early 17th century. The Trinity Column is hard to miss at a height of 35m and lavishly decorated with gold leaf and figures of saints and apostles. The base is so big that it houses a small chapel, which may be visited with a guide from the nearby Tourist Information. Another eyecatcher on the square is the Town Hall with the Astronomical Clock, vaguely reminiscent of the one in Prague, but rebuilt in socialist-realist style in the 1950s, when many religious references were removed. Every day at noon the roughly 7 minute performance of the Astronomical Clock may be witnessed on the front side of the Town Hall and includes a procession of proletariate figures accompanied by Czech folk tunes. HORNY NAMESTI also features 3 of the total of 6 fountains in town, i.e., the HERCULES, CAESAR and ARION fountains, with the latter being the most recent dating back to 2002.

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Throughout history, Olomouc has played many an important role within the Hapsburg Empire. It was here at the Archbishop´s Palace, for instance, where Emperor FRANZ JOSEF ascended to the throne in the revolutionary year 1848. Much earlier during the reign of the Primislid Dynasty, it was in Olomouc that "Good King Wenceslav" was murdered on the site of the old castle in the year 1306. Other notable personalities associated with Olomouc include famous Austrian General and Field Marshall Joseph Radetzky, who was nominated commander of Olomouc Fortress in 1829. And more recently in 1995, Pope John Paul II equally paid a visit to Olomouc holding mass at the Cathedral, where Jan Sarkander was declared a Saint, and visiting the nearby Church of the Holy Hill. Following a day or two in this gem of a Moravian city, we thus leave with the impression of having witnessed another true treasure off the beaten track destination and look forward to another visit soon in order to savor true Moravian hospitality.

Nuts over Nitra, Slovakia

2011-05-06T06:28:00.001-07:00

Approaching the small valley of the Nitra River, home to Slovakia´s 5th largest city Nitra, from the North, we cannot help but marvel at the splendid geographical location and scenic beauty of the region. Just like Rome, Nitra was built on seven hills, foothills of the Tatra mountains, and equally looks back at a long history since the earliest days of human settlement. Unlike Rome, however, Nitra is hardly on the travel agenda for most international visitors. In fact, most tourists to Slovakia may pay a quick visit to the capital Bratislava or in wintertime go skiing in the Tatra mountains, but few linger on to explore other regional charms and attractions of this, one of Europe´s youngest countries of 5 million, born in the aftermath of the VELVET DIVORCE in 1993 that split Czechoslovakia into the Czech and Slovak Republics respectively.

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As we enter this city of 85000 and important cultural and administrative center for Western Slovakia, we are equally surprised at the variety of well-preserved historic buildings, most notably Nitra Castle (Nitiransky Hrad), which ranks among the most important arqueological sites in all of Slovakia. Excarvations confirmed that there once stood a castle here as early as the 7th century, and a small chapel used to stand near where today we find the Gothic St. Emmeram´s Cathedral. The castle hill nowadays is also home to one of the most influential Roman Catholic bishopries in the country, attesting to the devout Catholicism of Slovaks today, so unlike their predominantly atheist Czech brethren further North. Along with numerous other important sites in central Nitra, the HRAD is colorfully illuminated at night, a spectacular sight to behold from even miles away.

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From the Castle Hill area, we descend into central Nitra´s pedestrian zone dominated to the North by the vast and spacious Svetoplukovo Namesti with the communist-era Andrej Bagar Theater and the splendid Neo-Renaissance building of the former City Hall, nowadays home to the Nitra City Museum. Here old historic and often restored buildings converge with quixotic and at times bland Communist architecture as well as modern urban renewal projects. The result is highly pleasing and culturally unique, vastly reminiscent of other areas in Central and Eastern Europe that have recently undergone similar rapid change in their urban design, such as Bulgaria or Ukraine. Yet here the vast investments of EU funds can be equally felt, as vast stretches of Nitra´s streets and building facades are given a generous face lift.

As we proceed along the main pedestrian street, Stefanikovo Trieda, we pass a small alley to the left, where we find Nitra´s splendid Synague, built 1908-1911 by Budapest-based Jewish architect Lipot Baumhorn for the city´s Neolog community. The building´s ornate facade combines elements of moorish and byzantine architecture typical of Baumhorn´s building style. At the end of the pedestrianized section of Stefanikovo Trieda, an architectural surprise of a different kind awaits us in the form of the brand new and spacious Centro Nitra shopping mall. Modern glass and steel make for a poignant contrast to the nearby communist-era building housing TESCO nowadays.

We end our explorations of central Nitra just outside the inner city, however, near the Nitra River embankment back underneath the Castle Hill. Here we are delighted by the neatly landscaped park area and sports facilties featuring a soccer stadium, miscellanous tennis courts, a small zoo and beautifully planted seasonal flower beds. And as evening descends over the foothills of the Tatra Mountains, the stately illuminated building of the Nitriansky Hrad overlooks this Slovak jewel as the unquestionable landmark of Nitra´s precious cityscape.

Solitary Moments in Einsiedeln, Switzerland

2011-04-25T07:03:00.001-07:00

Few places in Switzerland have seen more pilgrims flock to its premises than the monastery and town of Einsiedeln. While religious pilgrims have been plentiful here, flocks of tourists have not yet followed suit, fortunately. Einsiedeln is thus the epitome of a Treasure off the Beaten Track destination for its religious and architectural importance, and for its mere lack of international visitors. Conveniently located half-way on most tour itineraries en route to the Lake Lucerne Region of Central Switzerland, Einsiedeln offers a much welcomed respite from the tourist-infested areas of Lucerne or Interlaken, equalling both in scenic beauty but offering instead unforgettable moments of spiritual renewal in a rare Catholic enclave of worship in what is otherwise a predominantly Protestant Switzerland.

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Nowadays boasting a population of 12000 inhabitants and a huge baroque monastery complex & abbey church from the 18th century, Einsiedeln monastery looks back at over 1000 years of worship and prayer, since the Benedictine Order was established here in 934 by Abbot Eberhard from Strasbourg. The site of the order "in the dark forest" was where already in the 9th century Saint Meinrad of the Hohenzollern family had sought refuge from his nearby order on the island of Reichenau in Lake Constance. For several centuries, Einsiedeln monastery was a prosperous order and site of many pilgrimages until its first phase of decline during the Enlightenment and Reformation. Yet even Zwingli himself visited the Order between 1516 and 1518, and was unable to break the traditions of Catholicism in this part of Switzerland.

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Following the trials and tribulations during the Reformation, the Order of Einsiedeln experienced a new Golden Age during the Baroque Period in the 18th century, during which the present Abbey Church and Monastery complex with its 4 inner courtyards was constructed. While the overall construction was headed by Brother Caspar Moosbrugger from nearby Vorarlberg Provice in what nowadays would be Austria, the Abbey Church interior with its ornate frescoes and stuccowork is regarded as among the baroque masterpieces by the Brothers Cosmas Damian & Egid Quirin ASAM, including the spectacular LADY CHAPEL built of black marble. Here we find the miraculous Black Madonna, named as such due to her black face, a miraculous Marian statue carved before 1466 and according to legend brought to Einsiedeln by Abbot Eberhard himself in the 10th century after receiving the statue as a gift from Abbess Hildegard from Zurich. Since the 18th century, Einsiedeln has thus become the destination of worship for up to 200 000 pilgrims annually, thus equalling Rome, Santiago and Loreto in importance as a place of pilgrimage.

Yet apart from the Monastery Complex, Einsiedeln town has yet further attractions to offer, ranging from its spectacular scenic location in the Swiss Alps, to exquisite cafes and pastry shops, its vast array of artistic water fountains, and other museums and sights dedicated to the community's religious legacy. Among the latter, the Panorama of Einsiedeln, a Panorama painting over 2000m2 depicting the Crucifixion of Jesus (http://www.panorama-einsiedeln.ch) may rank as the most outstanding and thought-provoking sites. More recently, an impressive modern ski jump was inaugurated in 2005 as a training site for the Swiss Skiing Association and may also be visited by groups upon prior reservation. Einsiedeln thus offers visitors a unique slice of local life in Switzerland and a rare glimpse into aspects of religous worship and plgrimage in one of the most important monastic communities in the Alps and in Europe as a whole.

Dresden...evolving!

2011-04-07T05:44:00.001-07:00

There are few places in central Europe that pleasantly surprise visitors as much as Dresden does, capital of Saxony and third largest city in former East Germany at half a million inhabitants. More than 2 decades since the Fall of Communism, Dresden has become an East German success story in urban renewal, innovation and economic growth. Recent history, however, has not always been kind to the Saxon capital, with almost the entire historic inner city devastated by the infamous air raids of February 13th, 1945, and more recently, the reconstructed downtown almost entirely flooded by the "millenium floods" of the Elbe river in August, 2002. Since then, however, the city has defied all adversity and successfully reinvented itself, charmingly restored its historic core and become among the highlights of any visit to Eastern Germany and all of Central Europe. Surprisingly underrated and underpublicized as an international tourist destination, Dresden attracts but a moderate mostly local German crowd of visitors and thus remains a well-kept secret among travellers from abroad.

Approaching central Dresden from the opposite side of the Elbe river, our arrival could not be more scenic, with the so-called "Canaletto" view of the Dresden skyline opening up before us, featuring the towers of the Catholic Court Cathedral, the residence of the WETTIN dynasty, the splendid, recently completed OUR LADY's Church, the city's most important protestant cathedral, as well as the glass cupula of the ALBERTINUM museum complex, lovingly dubbed the "Lemon Squeezer". As we cross the Elbe bridge towards the historic inner city, we arrive at THEATERPLATZ with an overwhelming array of gorgeous, baroque-style buildings surrounding the square including the SEMPER opera house, the representative ZWINGER palace, which nowadays houses the Old Masters' Gallery and the Meissen Porcelain Collection, as well as the Catholic Cathedral. It is surprising to see a Catholic Church in an otherwise firmly protestant city, but AUGUSTUS THE STRONG, among the most noteable of the WETTIN Kings of Saxony, also became King of Poland during the peak of his reign, thus forcing him to convert to Catholicism and to construct a Catholic Cathedral in Dresden.

As we stroll through the historic core of Dresden, we leave behind Theaterplatz and pass through the vast "Residenz" of the Wettin Kings, approaching the building from behind. Here we find the city's most outstanding museum, the Historic and New Green Vault, de facto the Treasury of the Wettin Dynasty. Priceless and ornate pieces of jewelry, elaborate sculptures and further art treasures of the Wettins may be admired here on either a guided or an audio tour of the premises. The New Green Vault requires no prior reservation, whereas the Historic Green Vault may be booked months in advance. We then leave the Residenz towards the front side, turn right to continue past the unique and beautiful "PARADE OF PRINCES", a wall decorated with 24000 Meissen Porcelain tiles showing all the rulers of the Wettin Dynasty, including Augustus the Strong in the 17th century almost in the middle of the wall and on horseback. Walking past the Hilton Dresden Hotel, we arrive at Neumarkt Square and pause in front ot the statue of protestant reformer Martin Luther to admire the most important protestant church in Christianity, the recently rebuilt Our Lady's Church.

Seriously damaged during the February 1945 air raid, the church then at first remained standing, until a huge fire broke out and heated up the church interior for the huge cupula to collapse the following day. Since then, the destroyed church had remained a ruin and memorial site to the horrors of war, until reconstruction got under way as early as the 1990s and took off in earnest in 2000 to be completed by 2005. The church's reconstruction was carried out using state-of-the-art computer technology employed by NASA to determine where precisely old stones from the rubble would fit into the Church structure, thus allowing for all former stones to be used in the construction. Since ELBE sandstone quickly oxidates into a dark almost black color, it is easy for now to spot which stones in Our Lady's Church are original and which are new. In several years, however, most of the Church will turn into a darker color as a result of the oxidation process. Standing by the Luther Statue at Neumarkt Square we are overwhelmed by the square's recent reconstruction, whereby almost all buildings have been restored to their former baroque splendor lending architectural unity to the entire area surrounding the Frauenkirche.

Yet modern Dresden equally beguiles with incredible reconstruction efforts, ranging from daring innovative modern architecture along the PRAGER STRASSE pedestrian zone to the recently completed vast ALTMARKT and the brand-new even larger mega-mall of the ALTMARKTGALLERIE shopping complex. By now boasting the highest retail capacity per square meter and inhabitant ratio, Dresden has not only advanced economically to becoming the Saxon Silicone Valley with its focus on new technologies but has also been poised to turn into a retail therapy paradise for locals and visitors alike. And the list of surprises goes on, from impressive GRUENDERZEIT villas in the city's outskirts, to Volkswagen's Transparent Manufactury, and the quaint ELBE meadows with its castles, attesting to the wealth that may be built upon mouthwash and toothpaste. Today's Dresden is amazing - and still evolving to become even better.

Santa Catalina & Las Canteras Beach like a local

2011-03-25T09:54:00.001-07:00

The Canary Islands, we have argued, are good for more than sun & beach - and Las Palmas de GC, capital of Gran Canaria & the archipelago's only metropolis with over half a million inhabitants, is a great destination for alternative visitors any time of year, but particularly during the busy carnival season. We have previously written about the special charms of Carnival in Las Palmas as well as Gran Canaria's third largest city, Arucas. At the heart of local Las Palmas, however, and in fact of the entire center of Carnival action, lies the neighborhood of Santa catalina at the northern end of Las Palmas. It is here that global meets local, where homeless coexist with hip beach goers, and carnival revelers are seen next to surfers on the Atlantic Coast. Not seldom may one and the same person play all these various roles at different times of day & year - but it is all possible here in the district of Santa catalina, from the port on one end to the yellow sands of Las Canteras beach on the other.

Upon arrival at Las Palmas airport, it is not even necessary to rent a car, as many express buses head north to the city's central "Estacion de Guaguas" - local Canariones take pride in the fact that only here and in Cuba are buses referred to as GUAGUAS. The bus terminal, conventiently located at San Telmo Park & on the edge of the trendy TRIANA area of town, can be reached about 30 minutes later allowing for a transfer to local buses 12 & 13 that run north to EL MUELLE mall & the Santa Catalina exchange stop. Another 10 minutes later we arrive below ground at the Santa Catalina bus exchange with exits leading to EL MUELLE mall on one end and towards the PARQUE SANTA CATALINA on the other. Inexpensive accomodations abound in this part of town - numerous hostels, bed & breakfasts and small hotels cater to visitors on a budget - by far our favorite is the centrally located PENSION PLAZA right on Calle Luis Morote at Plaza Santa Catalina. What a treat to stay here during the busy peak of Carnival - far from peaceful and quiet, it is THE place to be for immediate access to all carnival attractions both night and day.

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The Plaza Santa Catalina is also a good gateway from which to explore the entire neighborhood of the same name. On the square itself, a tourist information booth provides helpful assistance to visitors, while all around the square we find charming & scenic outdoor cafes with terraces catering to tourist and locals alike. Among our favorites, Gran Terraza Lolita, named after local celebrity Lolita Pluma (1904-1987), offers great choices for breakfast along with the best location for people watching (for further information please see www.cafelolita.com). It also marks the beginning of the famous CALLE RIPOCHE shopping street, known for great electronics & photography shops, as many items may be purchased tax-free on the Canary Islands. The immediate vicinity is also known for excellent and inexpensive local eateries, many of which offer reasonably priced MENU DEL DIA options. By far our local favorite is the nearby restaurant HERMANOS GARCIA on Calle General Vives (for an overview of local businesses please see www.parquesantacatalina.net/comercios.asp) For 8 EUR patrons may enjoy a tasty 3 course menu of local home-made specialties including drinks.

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A few blocks away from Plaza Santa Catalina & Calle Ripoche we arrive at LAS CANTERAS beach, by far among our favorite urban beaches anywhere and at least as well maintained and spectacular as Ipanema & Copacabana beaches in Rio de Janeiro. For over 6 miles the beach promenade, PASEO DE LAS CANTERAS, leads from the Northern end, LA PUNTILLA, all the way south to the Auditorium Alfredo Kraus near LAS ARENAS mall. Whereas northern sections of Las Canteras are more popular with beach lovers and sun worshippers, the southern end attracts many snorkelers and surfers, particularly on windy days with significant surf potential. Few places in the world may be said to combine the attractions of a beach vacation with the proactive elements of outdoor sports AND the urban conveniences of a large metropolis. Nothing better to end a sunny day in Santa Catalina than to opt for a drink or meal right on Las Canteras beach, where global meets local & the entire world joins in the unique outdoor pleasures of jogging, walking & people watching.

Splendid Views & Rum in Arucas

2011-03-10T04:07:00.001-08:00

Most visitors to Gran Canaria arrive on the island as part of a package deal vacation and are rushed to their hotels in the South near the tourist resorts of Maspalomas and Playa del Ingles. Many thus fail to look beyond the usual routine of Sun and Beach, unable to savor the true local spirit of Gran Canaria. In previous Sidetracks articles we covered some alternative trajectories for a culturally enriching stay in the Canary Islands, including our post on a Cultural-Immersion Carnival in Las Palmas over a year ago. In two subsequent articles, we would like to shed further light on Treasures off the Beaten Track Destinations on the island of Gran Canaria. Both focus on the less touristy North of the Island and offer viable alternatives to mass tourism and monotonous beach vacations. And both are centered in and around Las Palmas de GC, the administrative and cultural capital of the Eastern Canary Islands (Gran Canaria, Fuerteventura & Lanzarote).

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A mere 40 minutes Northwest of Las Palmas, we find the island's third largest city and among its most scenic, the agricultural town of ARUCAS. Sugar cane has been cultivated here even before it became popular in Cuba, making Arucas a center of RUM production on the Canaries. The Rum Factory located inside the city's well-groomed city park, Jardin de Hespérides, attests to the area's prestigious past in the distillation of the local "AREHUCAS" rum. A walk around town, particularly in Arucas' pedestrian zone, reveals a vast array of 19th & 20th century town houses featuring ornate facades as a testament to the community's former wealth and glory. Apart from sugar cane for rum, the area also grows cactus for the cultivation of COCHINELLA beatles used as a natural form of red dye for fabrics.

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When rum production seized to be of economic importance to Arucas and less sugar cane was cultivated, much of the fertile land was used for planting banana crops, the most extensive on the archipelago, as well as many exotic plants and flowers, giving Arucas the nickname of "ciudad de las flores" (City of Flowers). The by far most imposing building in town is the monumental "Church of San Juan Bautista" or "Catedral de Arucas" built entirely of Arucas stone in Neo-Gothic style as recently as 1909, although its appearance suggests a much older age. Its splendid interior offers magnificent stained-glass windows by local artist Cristobal Hernandez de Quintano as well as ornate carvings by Manuel Ramos, most famous of which is the "Reclining Christ".

Following our stroll around central Arucas, its pedestrian zone and park areas, we head 3 miles onwards to the nearby "Montaña de Arucas" for splendid views of the surrounding countryside. Upon parking our car, we ascend towards the panorama restaurant, next to which several observation platforms, "MIRADORES", open up to allow us a spectacular glimpse of Northern Gran Canaria. At a height of 412 meters, one side near the parking lot offers views of Arucas city including its cathedral, while at the opposite end several platforms allow scenic views of the Atlantic Coast and an entire aerial view of Las Palmas de GC including Las Canteras Beach. On clear days, even the mountain of Teide may be seen on the neighboring island of Tenerife. In addition, the "Montaña de Arucas" features many tropical plants as well as bird cages with parrots. It is thus an ideal destination for families for a weekend getaway with great hiking opportunities and several local beaches nearby.

The Big Easy II: Community Spirit in the Lower Ninth Ward

2011-02-26T01:15:00.001-08:00

New Orleans is back - there can be no doubt about it. Everywhere construction is taking place, restoring the city to its former glory following the destruction of Hurricane Katrina in 2005. As we explored in our first article, most visitors will focus on the traditional tourist areas around the French Quarter and Canal Street in Downtown New Orleans. Even in those key neighborhoods, we argued, alternative visitor experiences are possible and highly rewarding. Yet given the impact of destruction by Katrina almost 6 years ago and the enormous community response since then, hardly any neighborhood visit in New Orleans could be more sobering yet uplifting and enriching than to the Lower Ninth Ward. For that reason we would like to take a closer look at a day out in the ward not involving "sighseeing" or tourist activities but rather charity work, community spirit and being part of grassroots movements in the neighborhood.

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The Lower Ninth Ward, historically plantation land closest geographically to the mouth of the Mississippi River, has traditionally always been among New Orleans' poorest and most challenged neighborhoods. It comprises the districts of Lower Nine and Holy Cross, both administrative voting districts since the 19th century. It was here that destruction from Hurricane Katrina in 2005 was the worst. Not only did incessant storm winds and downpours ravage the area, but a barge hit a nearby protective levy, some argue it happened on purpose, with the swollen surge of water freely pouring into what has always been at -10 ft. among the lowest-lying neighborhoods of New Orleans. The devastation was complete and deadly. Many residents died as a result of the sudden, unexpected flood waters, while others saught refuge on their roof tops but saw slow only slow responses in emergency and rescue aid from official sources. Even at this critical stage, it was the local residents of the Lower Ninth Ward, who took matters into their own hands by going around by boat rescuing up to 500 mostly elderly victims trapped in the attics of their houses threatened by ever-rising flood waters. Even the highest point in the Lower Ninth registered a water level of almost 1 meter. Nothing and nobody here escaped the destruction of Katrina and subsequent flooding.

Once the flood waters susided, the true scope of devastation became obvious with 100% of the houses destroyed. In December 2005 volunteers began gutting the first houses. By January 2006 the Lower Ninth Ward remained the only district of New Orleans where former residents were not allowed yet to return to live, as basic utilities and services had not been restored yet. The neighborhood also remained under curfews for 6 more months following the hurricane. Since then, local residents have increasingly turned disillusioned with official responses to the devastation and started taking matters into their own hands. Among the more publicized efforts, in late 2007 the Make It Right Project under the help of actor Brad Pitt helped build 150 subsidized sustainable, earth-friendly homes in the area. By early 2008, the non-profit home builder Build Now helped rebuild numerous neighborhood homes & bring families back. Yet nowhere has the exodus of local residents been greater than here with only 20% of the previous inhabitants returning, which brings the current population to only 1300 for an area covering 2 x 1.5 miles. For that reason, many more grassroots organizations have poured in trying to help rebuild this part of New Orleans, among them lowernine.org, which we turned to for our own contribution to the community spirit of the Lower Ninth Ward.

Lowernine.org (see their website) is a grassroots movement that helps rebuild the neighborhood by concerted community efforts in several areas of the Lower Ninth Ward, including gutting, minor demolition, gardening, painting and blight management. The latter involves creating charts for each of the streets in the area, recording the current state for each of the properties by street number. Often the street numbers had to be painted onto the street, as divisions between properties could no longer be seen following the destruction, making real estate transactions for this neighborhood a highly divisive and often disputed affair. Where property divisions are clear, however, property may then be categorized as "inhabited" or "deserted", in "good" "medium" or "poor" state, with the lawn "overgrown" or "cut" and the property for residential or commercial use. Blight management may thus help statistics for the area in rebuilding efforts.

By carrying out charity work as part of lowernine.org, the community response by locals was overwhelming and heart-warming, with residents approaching us to thank us for our contributions. During our day of outreach in the Lower Ninth, we also talked to representatives of yet another grassroots movement, OUR SCHOOL AT BLAIR GROCERIES, dedicated to sustainable and environmentally stable farming and community building. Their regular Growing Power Workshops are an important tool in helping empower and educate locals and particularly future generations in creating communities in tune with the environment. As their mission statement on their website (schoolatblairgrocery.blogspot.com) points out: "CREATING A RESOURCE RICH SAFE SPACE FOR YOUTH EMPOWERMENT AND SUSTAINABLE COMMUNITY DEVELOPMENT. WE ENVISION A COMMUNITY WHERE EMPOWERED YOUTH ENGAGE IN REFLECTIVE PRACTICE WITH OTHERS TO ACTUALIZE EFFECTIVE, REPLICABLE ENVIRONMENTAL JUSTICE BASED LOCAL SOLUTIONS TO GLOBAL CHALLENGES." They also have a Facebook group at http://www.facebook.com/OSBGNOLA with regular updates on their community-based workshops and rebuilding efforts.

Work in the Lower Ninth Ward is far from over and the community spirit of locals and volunteers alike is what truly moves New Orleans forward and will create a better community. The sense of community here may only be comparable to that of New York City following 9/11, but feels more long-lasting and sustained here. For that reason, I cannot wait to return to further contribute to rebuilding not just houses and homes, but what is poised to become a unique experiment of a sustainable, critically reflective urban community.

The Big Easy I: Beyond Bourbon Street

2011-02-16T06:38:00.001-08:00

"Laissez les bons temps rouler" has always been the slogan associated with the "Big Easy". Lately, times have not been too good on the Gulf of Mexico - from the destructive powers of Katrina in 2005 to last year's oil spill in the Gulf, the area has had to endure catastrophes and challenges galore recently. But New Orleans is back, and this time we hope it is bound to stay. Many parts of the city have recovered, residents have returned and visitors are flocking back to enjoy the laid-back attitude of the Big Easy. Business is not quite back to normal, and some aspects of life in New Orleans have changed irreversibly, whereas other aspects have remained unchanged. For that reason, New Orleans is a perfect destination for alternative visitors to the Southern U.S., particularly those that dare to venture beyond the bars on Bourbon Street and the most touristic sections of the French Quarter. Euroquest Sidetracks therefore will cover the Big Easy in two separate articles, featuring an alternative exploration of the French Quarter and nearby neighborhoods, as well as a radically sobering and unique stay in the city's problem area of the Lower Ninth Ward.

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In the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina, many affected areas have undergone urban renewal and reconstruction. Residents have since returned, but in much lower numbers compared to those who left. The official numbers are sobering with central New Orleans accounting for only approximately 300 000 inhabitants and roughly half a million in the greater Metropolitan area. The effects are manifold, but most visibly manifest themselves in some areas in a surreal Las Vegas-style "faux finishing" movie set feel, devoid of residents and noticeable urban activity. Fortunately central New Orleans was not quite as affected by Katrina due to the relatively higher elevation of the French Quarter and downtown areas. As we start out our exploration from CANAL STREET, we notice plenty of modernized office buildings, hotels and shopping malls, including the HARRAH's Casino, the only one permitted to operate on land in Louisiana rather than on the Mississippi River, the CANAL PLACE retail complex as well as the Sheraton and Westin hotels. Leaving behind Canal Street and heading into the FRENCH QUARTER, the obvious attraction nearby are the tacky neon-lit bars along BOURBON STREET catering to heavily partying and drinking revelers keen on fun, excess and good times. Yet only a block or two away, a different French Quarter beckons to be discovered, one with an alternative trajectory inviting visitors to discover intimate backyards, art galleries, specialty shops and quiet cafes.

As we head closer to the Mississippi River front, we reach ROYAL STREET, running parallel to Bourbon Street and offering a totally different impression of the Vieux Carre. Once we pass the N.O.Police Department and the Louisiana Supreme Court Building, we come across what may be the architecturally most homogenous sections of the French Quarter, a misnomer of sorts, as most of the beautiful mansions with wrougth-iron balconies date to the period of Spanish Occupation in the 19th century. More aptly labelled "Latin Quarter", it is here that we encounter alternative art galleries, restaurants and cafes, many of them featuring unique inner couryards with lush vegetation and tranquil, hidden terraces. The ROYAL BLEND Cafe and the HANA DESIGN Shop rank among our favorites here. As we pass the backside of St. Louis Cathedral, featuring a Jesus statue throwing ominous looking shadows when illuminated at night, we reach the part of Royal Street with the nicest collection of Spanish-era houses and balconies, each individually arranged, decorated and illuminated.

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By far our favorite coffee shop in the entire French Quarter is CROISSANT D'OR on URSULINE Street, far less crowded and touristic as CAFE DU MONDE near Jackson Square and yet with even tastier pastries and coffee beverages. While this far in the South East of the French Quarter, we also may wish to venture across ESPLANADE AVE into the nearby neighborhood of FOUBOURG MARIGNY, the true alternative heart of central New Orleans featuring low-key cafes, bistros and busy music clubs, such as the SPOTTED CAT. Walking along FRENCHMEN STREET in Marigny is a perfect introduction to the alternative energy and community-based recovery of the Big Easy. Many locals compare the feeling of solidarity here to that of post-9/11 New York City - and even 5 years since Katrina, the same sense of closeness, grassroots values and community spirit still prevails throughout many parts of NoLa, as called by most locals, a solidarity particularly felt here in the Marigny. It is with this sense of local culture, distinct Southern hospitality and community spirit that we return towards the more touristic areas of the French Quarter including the nearby French Market leading to Jackson Square with the front of St. Louis' Cathedral and the overpublisized BEIGNET pastries at Cafe Du Monde and then back to Canal street and the Mississippi River Front.

Unravelling the Mystery of Elche

2011-02-06T20:39:00.001-08:00

Most visitors flying into the Levante region of Spain head right to the beaches of the Costa Blanca or may pay a visit to Alicante along the way. Yet this part of the COMUNIDAD VALENCIANA has much more to offer than beaches and sunshine, in particular further inland away from the coast. As we have covered repeatedly on previous editions of Euroquest Sidetracks, there is plenty of unchartered territory left to discover in and around Alicante - and ELCHE, with 250000 inhabitants the area's 3rd largest city after Valencia and Alicante, should certainly rank high on the list of places to see for alternative visitors to Spain. A gem of a medieval and baroque city in sparkling clean and refurbished condition, ELCHE boasts not one but TWO UNESCO World-Heritage sites - its famous "Palmeral" (Grove of Palm Trees) and the "MISTERI D"ELX" (Mystery of Elche) play in August. So this week we'd like to take a closer look at this unique, beautiful and quintessentially Spanish town to unravel its mysteries and soak up its local cultural charm.

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Getting to Elche from Alicante is easiest by train costing EUR 2.15 one-way and EUR 3.64 round-trip. We decided to disembark at ELCHE CARUSS and walk to the historic Old Town by way of the modern suburbs and crossing over the almost non-existing VINALOPO River. It allowed us to appreciate the contrast between old and new, as well as admire the stunning vegetation along the river embankment, far more impressive than the river itself. Upon crossing the river we arrive at the impressive LA CALAHORRA fortress from the 7th century with the lush date palms of the MUNICIPAL PARK on our left. Clearly marked, the Tourist Information is immediately adjacent to the Park and fully equipped with information on local attractions including the UNESCO sites. In the vicinity we also find the MAHE Arqueological Museum with plentiful testiments of the region's ancient past. Outdoor cafes abound and invite for coffee or a merienda in the sun or shade. Just across the street of the MAHE Museum we come across the BASILICA SANTA MARIA, built from a former mosque in Baroque style in the 17th century, among the city's highlights and site of the MYSTERY OF ELCHE play every year in August.

The "MISTERI D'ELX", as the play is known in local Valenciano in which it is performed, is divided into 2 acts and centered around the death, assumption and subsequent coronation of the Virgin Mary. Historians trace the origin of the play back to the mid-15th century refuting theories that it may date to the Christian Reconquest of ELCHE from the Moslems in 1265 or an alleged apparition of the Virgin Mary in nearby Santa Pola in 1370. The play is held in the Basilica of Elche every year on August 14th and 15th, performed exclusively by local men and as such is the longest continuously running play of its kind in the world. Pope Urbano VIII even granted Elche the exceptional right in 1632 to perform the play despite religious orders from the Catholic Church against performances in churches elsewhere. Apart from dialogue in the ancient Valenciano vernacular, the "MISTERI D'ELX" equally features a blend of musical contributions with medieval, renaissance and baroque influences. Due to its unique cultural contribution, it was awarded UNESCO World Heritage Status in 2001.

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Following our visit to the Basilica Santa Maria, we continue our exploration of central Elche by heading past the Market Hall and the "Museo de la Festa" (dedicated to the Mystery Play) towards the second world heritage site here, Elche's magnificent PALMERAL or "Grove of Palm Trees". As such, it represents a unique example of North-African date palm cultivation in Europe, dating back to the times of the Muslim occupation of most of the Iberian Peninsula in the 10th century A.D. The actual cultivation of date palms here originally goes back to Phoenician and Carthiginian times in the 1st millenium B.C., but it was during the Arab occupation of Elche that the current "HUERTOS" or "palm gardens" were laid out in their present style.

Date palms here reach a height of up to 30 meters and live for up to 300 years. Re-cultivation of palm trees is thus essential to the grove's survival, leading the city of ELCHE to impose strict ordinances for the number of date palms to be planted by private landowners. Also for every born child in Elche, a new date palm is planted, which ensures survival of this unique ecosystem in this part of Europe. Upon passing the most famous "HUERTO DEL CURA" palm garden, we gradually leave the city's famous "Palmeral" and return to the urbanized areas of Elche. After revisiting the highlights around the Basilica & the Fortress, we then head north through the Municipal Park to reach ELCHE PARK train station where we end our Sidetracks explorations for the day by boarding the regional train back to Alicante.

The "Porrat de San Antón" in Alicante

2011-01-28T18:00:00.001-08:00

ALICANTE - Guapa, Guapa y Guapa - is the new catch phrase chosen by Alicante Tourist Authorities for their new 2011 campaign, along with the subheading "Quiereme como yo te quiero a ti" (Love me as much as I love you). In deed, Alicante has come a long ways over the past decade or two in revamping its image from an ugly portside duckling to a shining Mediterranean jewel. Much remains to be done, but overall, the city is certainly on the right track. Despite hords of Northern European vacationers taking the city by storm in the summer, Alicante remains quintessentially Spanish with its own infrastructure, traditions and celebrations. No better way to pay tribute to the spirit and beauty of Alicante than to introduce one of its major local festivals, the "Porrat de San Anton".

Spain is known for its many festivities year-round from the bull run of San Fermines in Pamplona to the Fallas fireworks in Valencia. Yet many holidays and festivals are of a more local nature and thus attract less international tourists but rather visitors interested in the local host culture and customs. While on Alicante's busy year-round events calendar, the Bonfire of LAS HOGUERAS in late June ranks among the most popular festivity attracting thousands of visitors local and foreign alike, the Alicante region boasts many lesser known local festivals, including the "PORRAT DE SAN ANTON" (St. Anthony's Market) in January. While St. Anthony, also known es San Anton of Egypt or EL ABAD, is celebrated as a Patron Saint in many parts of Italy and Spain, the festival in Alicante has some traditions of its own worth exploring in greater detail.

As Patron Saint of domestic animals, Saint Anthony's day involves bonfires and processions in most places along with blessings of animals in various venues. In Alicante, the festival takes place in the SAN ANTON neighborhood of the same name, which happens to be within proximity to the city's majestic PLAZA DE TOROS or Bullring. There locals gather for the blessing of their domestic animals, dancing and riotous events. The term "PORRAT" in catalan refers in fact to a Market held on nearby premises. More like a traditional fair, locals sell dried fruit, nuts (hazelnuts, almonds and chestnuts) quince jelly, dried chickpeas and a special nougat candy known as "TURRON DE NOVIA" (Bride's Nougat). This special nougat candy forms part of a gift that future brides expect from their fiances as part of the "mocador d'herbes", a local tradition, whereby a cloth known as "mocador d'herbes" is used to wrap up edible sweets as treats for their loved ones, including marcipan fruits and precisely this kind of "Bride's Nougat" sold amng others at the local PORRAT de San Anton.

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The procession of animals for later blessings along with games for the children and music events for the elderly were traditionally started from the Santa Maria church and then moved to the front of the main entrance of the most beautiful chapel on the edge of what nowadays is known as the "DIAZ MOREU" discrict of Alicante. The "Ermita de San Anton" was built in 1586 and subsequently fell into total disrepair until its abandonment in 1807. More recently, the premises of Alicante's prestigious Bull Ring from 1847 have been used for the event attracting thousands of mostly local revelers. The festival culminates in a lavish fireworks display around 10 pm featuring 15 minutes of colorful "castillos" fireworks in the skies above SAN ANTON as well as loud "MAZCLETAS" firecrackers on the ground. The Porrat de san Anton thus attests to the Alicantino's sense of tradition and customs along with the overall Spanish afinity to ebullient fireworks, probably even more marked in the Mediterranean areas of Spain as witnessed during Fallas, Hogueras and the Porrat de San Anton.

Exploring the San Pere Neighborhood of Barcelona

2011-01-21T04:15:00.001-08:00

When I first set foot into the Barrio de San Pere in Barcelona, I was pleasantly surprised at how quiet, authentic and unpretetious it is compared to the overcrowded tourist areas of the Ramblas, Plaza Catalunya and the Barrio Gotico nearby. Although only a mere 5 to 10 minutes walk from the main attractions of central Barcelona, the San Pere neighborhood has managed to retain its local charm, quaintness and authenticity. For that reason, this week Euroquest Sidetracks would like to take a closer look at this often neglected part of the Catalan Capital and explore it as part of an alternative itinerary to Barcelona, one that is infused with local culture and experiences.

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The Barrio de San Pere is located between the Barrio Gotico to the West, the trendy Born district further south & the Ciudadela Park to the Southwest featuring numerous monuments from the World Expo of 1888, making Barcelona rank among the few cities to host the World Expo twice (1888 and 1929). From the Arc de Triomf we have easy access to the San Pere neighborhood centered around 3 streets running from East to West at different levels - the upper, middle and lower streets of San Pere respectively - or in Catalan "Carrer de San Pere Mes Alt, Mitja & Mes Baix". The name comes from the nearby 10th century monastery of "San Pere de les Puelles" referring to girls that disfigured themselves to avoid rape and murder in medieval times. The main attraction here are narrow cobble stone lanes displaying local life in Barcelona away from the tourist crowds. It is a pleasure to get lost in the small alleyways, observe locals chatting in the street, elderly women carrying their shopping bags home or delivery carts being moved through the narrow access paths to local businesses.

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In recent years, San Pere has been in the headlines as possibly another victim of urban regeneration. After all, this used to rank among the poorer and more run-down neighborhoods of Barcelona, until a few years back, major renewal projects were launched, among them the modern SANTA CATARINA market hall on its southside. Yet developers went too far, threatening to destroy a number of historic buildings, which in turn triggered loud protests from local residents and conservationists alike. Eventually, the Council took sides with the protesters, many projects were suspended in what is generally regarded as a successful display of "People Power". To commemorate this achievement, some tiles adorn a neighborhood fountain at the disputed site with the words "FORAT DE LA VERGONYA" or "Hole of Shame".

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Although the true charm of San Pere lies in strolling and exploring the neighborhood's narrow alleyways, enjoy drinks and meals at local eateries and watching the locals, the area also offers a few architectural highlights, attractions that are underrated compared to their more popular counterparts on the Ramblas or l'Eixample. First and foremost the PALAU DE LA MUSICA CATALANA on the western edge of San Pere ranks among the highlights of modernist architecture in the Catan Capital. Built by local 19th century architect and politician Lluis Domenech i Montaner, it displays similar magnificent ornate modernist features as many of the more publicized GAUDI buildings in town, yet receives far fewer visitors. The modern market area of Santa Caterina on the southern border of San Pere is likewise a delight to discover both in terms of its unprecedented architecture and its local neighborhood atmosphere. Finally, the cloister of Saint Augustin, San Pere de les Puelles itself marks a scenic highlight as part of a lush green square featuring shrubs, trees and numerous outdoor cafes and eateries to fully savor the local carisma of this underrated gem of a Barcelona neighborhood.

Prague off the Beaten Track

2011-01-14T13:23:00.001-08:00

Today's title may sound like a contradiction in terms - no other capital city in Central Europe has seen more influx of tourist crowds and revenue than the Czech Capital. Since the fall of Communism, the city has turned from bleak hard-line communist capital to Bohemian Disneyland in less than 2 decades. Most tourist areas of Prague can nowadays no longer be imaginable without crowds of picture-taking tour groups pushing towards the Astronomical Clock at Old Town Square. Many highly unique and interesting sights, such as the Jewish Quarter of Josefov, have become victims of their own popularity, and overcrowding takes a serious toll on visitor enjoyment and the overall cultural experience.

For that reason, it is our mission this week to lay out alternative options for a visit to Prague, one that may not result in clashes with tourist crowds and could thus generate a more genuine confrontation with the cultural Other. To this end, timing is crucial, as the Czech capital receives hords of visitors almost year-round. To experience slightly less crowded conditions, a visit during low-season, particularly during cold winter months, may prove a blessing for the individual enjoyment of Prague's sights. In addition, choice of accomodation and neighborhood may facilitate cultural exchange and aid the visitor experience. After all, the Czech capital is characterized by a strict dichotomy between tourist-only areas, i.e., the four historic quarters of HRADCANY, MALA STRANA, STARE MESTO and NOVE MESTO, and more locally-oriented neighborhoods such as Prague 5 ("SMICHOV"), ZIZKOV or slightly further suburban districts like CHODOV or the area around PALMOVKA. The latter offer less expensive accomodation options, a more local flair and yet easy public transportation connections to the visitor attractions of central Prague.

NOVE MESTO, which comprises the area around WENCESLAV SQUARE and the shopping mile of NA PRIKOPE, sees locals and visitors mix to some degree. For that reason it offers both sightseeing highlights such as the MUCHA Museum, the Municipal House and the Powder Tower, and yet venues and experiences associated with local Prague, like the PALLADIUM Mall at NAMESTI REPUBLIKY or PIZZA COLISEUM, among our favorite local Prague eateries with various outlets around the city. Also don't miss our favorite cafe downtown, CAFE CAFE, located on RYTIRSKA on the cusp of OLD and NEW TOWN and attracting a stylish mostly local clientele.

A true hidden gem is the FRANCISCAN GARDEN, just behind Wenceslav Square, an area hardly even accessed or discovered by tourists. From Mustek, walk towards Jungmannova Square towards Our Lady of the SNows church - here we find access to a hidden park area that ranks among the favorite retreats for locals to sit on benches in the sun, chat or eat ice cream in the summer. It is a far cry from the overcrowded Old Town Square a mere 5 to 10 minutes away. Here too we find numerous cafes and pastry shops catering to locals and thus offering drinks, pastries and ice cream at a fraction of the cost compared to elsewhere. It is possible to traverse the Franciscan Garden in its entirity continuing through connecting passages to emerge on VODICKOVA again near the center of WENCESLAV SQUARE.

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Even the highly frequented HRADCANY area of Prague Castle has a few treasures off the beaten track to offer, most notably away from the Castle complex itself heading towards Strachov Monastery. Here we pass the baroque 18th century LORETO pilgrimage church and then enter the STRACHOV MONASTERY complex itself featuring a stunning library and a portrait gallery, both rather devoid of visitors. The views over central Prague are equally unmatched yet crowdless from the very terrace in front of the monastery.

On the same side of the VLTAVA river further south we find the local neighborhood of SMICHOV, by far our favorite when it comes to savoring local Prague. Around ANDEL metro station we find a microcosmos of local activity including the NOVE SMICHOV retail complex and nearby STAROPRAMEN brewery and beer hall. Lastly on the Southside of Prague, a taste of local contemporary Czech culture awaits us in the form of the CENTRUM CHODOV shopping mall - a slice of new modern Czech life attesting to the rapid changes this part of Central Europe has undergone over the past two decades.

Urban Architecture in Distress in Southern Nevada

2011-01-09T00:11:00.001-08:00

"The Party is over" - a recent Economist article declared about the current state of affairs in Las Vegas. Even casual observers notice a tangible malaise about Sin City that was not there a mere 5 years ago. Since the recession hit in 2008, Southern Nevada has been hit particularly hard, and Las vegas has been trying to reinvent itself again. There is no end in sight to the present crisis with critical voices arguing the Valley's problems may be existential rather than just cyclical, and radical rethinking would be needed to redirect Las Vegas towards a better future.

For those of us who love the Desert Southwest and have called Southern Nevada home at some point, the current dilemma is heart-wrenching but certainly was not unexpected. For that reason, Euroquest Sidetracks would like to present Sidetracks of a different kind this week by taking a closer look at those parts of the city in crisis - away from the glitz and glamour of Las Vegas Boulevard ("The Strip") and towards the American Dream in shatters. The notion of presenting a travel article on "distressed urban architecture" may not sit easily with the idea of tourism in general, but neither does a visit to Auschwitz or Chernobyl. Yet if enriching travel experiences are defined by broadening horizons, transforming consciousness and challening the status quo, then juxtaposing Las Vegas' previous boom with the valley's current crisis may lead to new insights, and possibly urban design solutions for the future.

Between 1995 and 2005, Las Vegas ranked among the fastest-growing cities in America, in some years adding up to 40 000 residents, lured by the prospect of lower housing prices and moderate taxation compared to elsewhere in the U.S. Particularly Southern Californians moved by the thousands in search for higher quality of life, less traffic and more affordable housing. The population increase started straining Southern Nevada's resources, particularly water, pumped from artificial Lake Mead, which in turn is fed by the Colorado River, over which several states including California, Arizona, Utah and Nevada are arguing for water rights. In addition, suburban sprawl took off with no regard for sustainable urban planning adding entire neighborhoods in sometimes only a few months. Jobs in the service industry were plentiful, as casinos opened up and required work force, which in turn fueled all other economic sectors including construction, retail, health care and related services. Las Vegas became the reversal of New York's slogan: "If you can't make it in Las Vegas, you can't make it anywhere". The city symbolized "easy money", pioneer spirit and the American Way of Life. As such, it was a place of hope for so many too, as it offered a second chance to many - a new lease on life.

As the city's boom unfolded, a subtle yet noticeable development took place, which directly ran counter to the very creativity and vitality the city purported to symbolize, i.e., uncontrolled suburban sprawl and over-development. Las Vegas grew bigger, but did not grow up. The growth consisted primarily in suburban residential housing, strip malls, neighborhood casinos and car dealerships, few of which the city really needed to "grow up" and mature. Critics and environmentalists were ignored - too tempting were the prospects of "easy money" for the developers and real estate agents. Even in the last years of the boom, entire new residential neighborhoods were developed, including Mountain's Edge in the Southwest of the Las Vegas Valley, many of which have now fallen on hard times due to the crisis. As the recession hit in 2008, the construction boom came to a screeching halt, leaving many developments half-finished and parts of the Valley resembling a ghost town. Retail space in particular, was subject to dire misjudgement by developers, leaving brand-new strip malls at times in their entirity underoccupied or vacant. Any drive through the Southwest valley would yield similar impressions of such overdevelopment and misjudgement.

Since the recession started and signs of economic slowdown reached Southern Nevada, matters have turned increasingly against Sin city threatening the very philosophy that Las Vegas is built upon. At present, unemployment stands at almost 20 percent and up to 50000 residents are moving away per annum. Almost every second home is under foreclosure, the highest rate of any large city in America. With locals increasingly residing in further-afield suburban areas, the more central infrastructure created in the 1980s and 90s is particularly hard hit. Nowhere can this be felt more tangibly than in Las Vegas' East side and Henderson, Nevada. Once the boom town of the 1990s, Henderson has become a shadow of its former suburban glory.

A drive along Russell Road on the border between Las vegas and Henderson aptly illustrates the unprecedented scale of urban distress and the city's current predicament. From the vacant strip mall near Tropicana and McCloud on Las Vegas' East Side to the "Green Valley Town Square" at Green Valley Parkway and Sunset, the plight could not be more tangible. The latter once was the show-off project of 1990s suburban design featuring a square with fountains surrounded by restaurants, a movie theater complex and the Barley's Brewery Casino. Nowadays only the Brewery is struggling to stay open - all other venues shut down.

Yet no better example of Las Vegas' current woes than the retail complex at Russell & Pecos, where VON's grocery store closed 18 months ago and most other businesses followed suit. Left are a few fast food restaurants struggling to stay open along with a quiet Starbucks. When I asked one of the employees how long they may still be open, she just sighed and said: "I remember when all of this was nothing but desert, and for all that I care, it may soon turn into desert once again."

Holiday Magic in Beautiful Bratislava

2010-12-28T18:38:00.001-08:00

More than 2 decades since the Fall of Communism, there are few places left behind what used to be the Iron Curtain that truly look and feel different. Particularly close to the former Western border, many cities have adopted the same blend of commercial infrastructure and cityscape as their counterparts in Western Europe. In order to feel some of the remnants of what life under communism used to be like, it is nowadays necessary to travel much further afield to the East, unless we opt for Bratislava, capital of Slovakia and a mere hour away from waltzing Vienna. A journey to Bratislava also has the added benefit of introducing us to a destination much less publicized and thus less crowded than, say, Vienna or Prague and allows us to visit the capital of one of Europe's youngest nations, the Republic of Slovakia, created by the "Velvet Divorce" of the Czech and Slovak Republics in 1993. A visit to Slovakia thus also confronts us with the notion of cultural identity at the crossroads of Europe. After all, Bratislava was predominantly German speaking and better known as PRESSBURG less than a century ago as well as the capital of HUNGARY under the name of POZSONY for over 300 years while Buda, nowadays Budapest, was occupied by Ottoman Turks. As a Treasure off the Beaten Track destination, Bratislava therefore offers many an unexpected surprise to visitors and a true feel for history and identities moving across ever-changing geopolitical landscapes.

In recent years, Bratislava Tourist Authorities have launched many a worthwhile effort to make their capital city known to visitors abroad. The Tourist Information in central Old Town is well equipped, organized and accomodating, and on-line marketing of Slovakia as a destination has fully embraced new technologies. Among our favorite travel twitter accounts to follow, VISIT BRATISLAVA (www.twitter.com/visitbratislava) ranks among the most active and informative in Central Europe. When during the holiday period the question arose as to the nicest christmas markets in Central Europe, VISIT BRATISLAva made a proud yet modest appeal for the city's main Christmas Market in Old Town, and we decided to follow up on it and fully agree. There is a tasteful balance between setting, decoration and architecture, crowds are moderate, prices considerably lower than in Western Europe, and the entire market experience conveys a rich local heritage rather than commercial spectacle. So no better time to visit Bratislava than during the weeks preceding Christmas, despite the cold and snowy weather in this part of Europe.

We embark on our visit to the Slovak Capital, however, driving up towards the HRAD, or Bratislava Castle, perched on a 300 ft hill of the Little Carpathian Mountains overlooking the Danube and the Bratislava neighborhood of Petrsalka. Even when other impressions of the Slovak Capital begin to fade, no visitor is bound to forget the panorama of communist-era apartment blocks of Petrsalka and the ufo-looking tower restaurant of the NOVY MOST (New Bridge) from 1969. Although a prototypical architectural example of socialist realism, the panorama's effect on visitors today is rather one of exoticism, modernism and strange urban beauty. The HRAD itself, originally a 13th-century Gothic fortress, then redone in Renaissance and Baroque style, illustrates the role of Bratislava as a defense bastion, particularly during the Ottaman Turkish invasion. Due to its strategic location and heavy fortification, the castle was never seized, but destroyed by fire in 1811 and not rebuilt until the 1950s. Recent restoration over the past decade has restored its former splendor. The castle complex now features the Slovak National Museum, State Treasury including the Crown Jewels along with authentic local handicrafts store. Just outside the main castle gates, we see the Slovak Parliament Building, which once was part of Bratislava University prior to Slovak independence in 1993.

Following our visit to Bratislava Hrad, we continue our ascent through a quiet residential neighborhood towards the most prominent communist-era monument, the SLAVIN war memorial at the 500-ft Slavin Hill, the city's highest panorama point. The monument was erected after WWII along with a war cementery to commemorate Russian soldiers that fell during the liberation of Slovakia from Nazi Rule in 1944 and 1945. Nowhere else in Central Europe can we find a soviet-era memorial of such scale, sobrity and ideological impact. Few visitors leave the site untouched by its tragic legacy of battle ground, cemetery and war memorial.

We round up our visit to Bratislava on a more up-beat and seasonal note by strolling around the city's magnificent Baroque-era Old Town. A mere 10 or 15 years ago, the inner city consisted of little more than dilapidated buildings and neglected monuments. Now restoration of Old Town Bratislava has been completed and despite its reduced size, it ranks among our favorite downtown districts anywhere in Central Europe. We approach the central market square from the North, from the historic Michael's gate featuring the zero-kilometer marker, the spot from which all distances to Bratislava are measured. We walk as far as the Gothic St. Martin's Cathedral, for over 300 years coronation church of Hungarian Kings and Queens, including Empress Maria Theresa, who frequently visited her favorite daughter Marie Christine here. During our stroll we continue along Hviezdoslav Square, which resembles more a pedestrian boulevard and culminates at the prestigious Neo-Renaissance SLOVAK NATIONAL THEATER and the adjacent Slovak Philharmonic Orchestra.

From here, it is only a 2-minute stroll to the central Market Square, site of Bratislava's annual Christmas Market. The backdrop of the Slovak Capital's Town Hall, the proximity to the magnificent Archiepiscopal Palace along with the Baroque facades of surrounding stately buildings make this among our favorite Christmas markets in Europe. Far less touristically exploited than similar markets in Vienna, Budapest or Prague, the atmosphere is relaxing, welcoming and genuine. Prices for food, drink and seasonal merchandise are considerably lower than elsewhere too. So no better way to end our visit than by savoring some local Slovak "Haluski" pasta and toasting with the famous hot mulled wine - Bratislava at Christmas Time rocks! Na zdravie!

Hunting Horns & Dvorak Tunes at Chateau Sychrov

2010-12-18T05:12:00.001-08:00

Most visitors to the Czech Republic focus solely on the capital Prague, with far fewer foreigners exploring the rustic charms of the Czech country side. And there almost all visitors tend head to the UNESCO World Heritage Jewels of the Czech lands, including Cesky Krumlov or Kutna Hora. Very few visitors venture North towards the Czech-German border, although Northern Bohemia has plenty of unique attractions to offer, among them the cities of USTI NAd LABEM and LITOMERICE. Not far from the town of Liberec and the small community of Turnov, we find another hidden jewel of Northern Bohemia, the Chateau Sychrov, an enchanting fairy-tale castle almost entirely devoid of tourist traffic. Following four decades of isolation on the other side of the Iron Curtain, Northern Bohemia is only slowly opening up towards Tourism. For that reason, the area ranks as a worthwhile Treasure off the Beaten Track destination and thus deserves further mention.

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The journey from Prague to Northern Bohemia takes just over an hour and leads us past the industrial town of Mlada Boleslav, home to the SKODA motor works, a Czech business success story since recent cooperation with German Volkswagen. About 30 minutes further North, the highway splits between Liberec and Turnov. Heading towards Turnov, the following exit indicates Sychrov and leads us over a small country highway about 1-2 miles further inland to the secluded premises of Chateau Sychrov itself, a gem of a hunting chateau in the middle of Northern Bohemia.

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Originally built as a Baroque Palace on the site of a former Gothic fortress, Sychrov underwent significant Neo-Gothic adaptations by 1834 under the ROHAN family, who had escaped France following the 1789 Revolution and resettled here under the Habsburgs. Unlike many French artistocratic families, the ROHANS decided to decline the invitation to return to France under Napoleon's rule and instead made Sychrov their main residence. Here we find today's largest collection of French portraits outside France in the Rohan's gallery with an approximate total of 240 paintings. Particularly the interior of Chateau Sychrov ranks among the most magnificent of any palace in Bohemia due to the elaborate woodcarvings undertaken by Czech master carver PETR BUSEK. The entire interior of the chateau underwent reconstruction in Romantic Historicist style on the basis of PRUVOT's books on English Gothic furniture design. Among the most outstanding features are the Salon, Library and Dining Hall of the Rohans all redesigned under Petr Busek. In addition, the family's china porcelain and fine cutlery collection attest to the Rohan's immaculate taste in interior design. For that reason, Chateau Sychrov is also regarded among the best examples in the Czech Republic of architectural harmony between the palace exterior, interior and surrounding park and garden areas.

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Among the most charming features of any visit to Chateau Sychrov are the hunting horns, which during the season chime every hour on the hour until dusk. In addition to a guided tour of the castle interior, several small yet outstanding businesses operate on the palace grounds, among them the official castle gift shop, a goldsmith, Bohemian Glass shop and miscellaneous handicrafts store. The goldsmith and glass shop in particular offer a moderate selection of locally handcrafted items at a fraction of the cost of similar items in Prague. The gardens and grounds of Sychrov, carefully redesigned in English Park style, equally invite visitors for extensive strolls and panorama visits. Lastly, regular concert events are held at Chateau Sychrov, many dedicated to ANTONIN DVORAK, who through his friendship to Rohan clerk ALOIS GOEBL frequently came for visits to Sychrov in the 19th century and found peace and inspiration here. A plaque dedicated to Dvorak may be found on the left side of the Chateau's main outside courtyard. The adjacent Chateau Sychrov Hotel & Restaurant was added recently and offers a quiet wellness oasis with 4star facilities in what many regard as among the least touristically exploited areas of the Czech Republic. For that reason, Chateau Sychrov may truly be regarded as a Treasure off the Beaten Track destination encouraging genuine quiet personal bonding with art, nature and architecture.

Local San Diego III: A Sunday out in Encinitas

2010-12-09T14:35:00.001-08:00

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Nothing better on a sunny Sunday than to escape San Diego's urban area and head 20 miles on I-5 in the direction of Los Angeles to the charming communities of San Diego's North County. Once past the Mormon Temple near La Jolla and the exclusive community of Del Mar, we reach SOLANA BEACH and Encinitas - perfect getaways for a day trip away from the city. Both boast gorgeous coastline and pristine beach areas, but it is the alternative charm of Encinitas that makes it stand out in Greater San Diego, and no better time to witness this than on a Sunday, when the seaside resort's FARMERS' MARKET is in full swing.

Our first stop in Encinitas, however, is the San Diego Botanic Garden, formerly known as "QUAIL BOTANICAL GARDENS", a green sanctuary of over four miles of park and trails featuring more than 3300 varieties of plants including the nation's largest Bamboo collection. Admission is not cheap but helps to ensure survival of the park, nowaday's a non-profit charitable organization (see www.SDBGarden.org for details). The area is divided into various themes, many according to geographical area, among them a rainforest, several desert gardens as well as Australian, Canary Islands, South African and Mediterranean flora.

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In tune with the organization's mission to "inspire people of all ages to connect with plants and nature", the Park also includes several sections exclusively dedicated to children, such as the Hamilton and the Seeds of Wonder Children's Gardens. A stroll through San Diego Botanic Garden is a welcome break from the urban routine and an exciting introduction to diverse flora from all around the world. It is also a laudable example of water conservation and recycling, as the organization is acutely aware of Southern California's severe water shortage and as such has implemented various means to conserve water on their premises. Lastly, SD Botanic Garden is currently also a great venue to experience contemporary local art, as 24 sculptures from over 16 artists are featured throughout its territory as part of the organization's "SCUPLTURE IN THE GARDEN" campaign.

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Upon completion of our visit to the Botanical Garden, we stop briefly at the visitor center and plant shop, before heading for coffee & food at our favorite cafe in Encinitas: PANNIKIN coffee & tea, which is located inside a former train station and has since been carefully restored and remodeled to feature 2 levels of indoor cafe area along with an inviting outside patio. The food is fresh and locally made, and Pannikin remains a local favorite in Encinitas with locals and visitors alike and as such defying the franchising trend experienced elsewhere in the US.

From Pannikin we then head into central Encinitas to witness the true alternative nature of this seaside community. No better day than Sunday, when Encinitas holds its popular Farmers' Market. The entire main street is blocked for traffic over a stretch of 15 blocks or almost 2 miles. It is advisable to come early, as parking nearby is hard to find otherwise. Far from just a fruit and vegetable market, this special Sunday event sees many local artists and alternative vendors set up base to promote and sell their products and services. It is a perfect opportunity to buy hand-made jewelry or admire hand-crafted art work and locally manufactured clothes.

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Our Sunday outing would not be complete without witnessing the area's spectacular coastline and beaches. For that reason, we head back South towards central San Diego using the coastal highway - passing Encinitas' beach along with coastal areas of Solana Beach and Del Mar. Downtown Del Mar in particular invites us for another stop-over for food or drinks in a somewhat more exlusive coastal resort environment. The beaches in the area also invite for a visit and are generally far less crowded than further south in San Diego's urban coastal areas around Ocean Beach or Pacific Beach. Returning from our Sunday escapade to central San Diego, we bask in the assurance that an excursion to the North County continues to be a welcome treasure off the beaten track for both locals and visitors to Southern California.

Local San Diego II: Community Spirit & Neighborhood Charm

2010-12-03T03:54:00.001-08:00

There are few cities in North America that take such pride in their local neighborhoods as San Diego. While most US cities consist of office space downtown and bland suburban sprawl, almost all neighborhoods in San Diego are alive, unique and offer dining, nightlife and recreational options that are based in the local economy rather than big corporate franchises. For that reason, a walk around the various parts of Southern California's favorite city offers a valuable glimpse of local San Diego and a true visitor experience away from the mainstream. Local authorities have also been promoting the various communities that make up greater San Diego by supporting local businesses and erecting neighborhood signs on main streets everywhere.

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By far the most up-and-coming area of San Diego is NORTH PARK, as it is still moderately affordable and thus attracts local businesses, artists and visionaries. Here on UNIVERSITY AVENUE and 30th Street we find numerous outstanding yet affordable eateries, such as the famous RANCHO Mexican Restaurant on 30th Street. Many local cafes also beckon for visitors, including the popular CLAIRE DE LUNE cafe on University Ave. Strolling through North Park in the evening reveals the true magic of this booming San Diego community, with Art Galleries offering Painting Classes, Dance Academies featuring ballroom dancing as well as a plethora of other recreational and artistic activities for locals to pursue.

Nearby HILLCREST has always been traditionally the alternative part of town, but has undergone urban renewal in recent years. Rents went up and many family businesses left, leaving the once booming alternative area around University & 5th Avenue in the hands of developers for both business and residential property. So while high-end condominiums and insurance buildings are becoming more frequent, some long-time favorite lower-end coffee & dining venues still attract visitors. They include FILTER coffeeshop as well as URBAN GRIND on Park Boulevard, BREAD AND CIE on University & 4th as a welcome alternative to corporate PANERA, ICHIBANS on University Avenue for Japanese Food, as well as our Vietnamese favorite Pho 5th Avenue in the very heart of Hillcrest. Here we also find the highest concentration of alternative venues in San Diego, including Rich's nightclub, and other popular venues such as FLICKS, MOE's and the newly developed Club EDEN.

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North of Hillcrest and North Park we find yet another booming and attractive neighborhood, UNIVERSITY HEIGHTS with a huge community sign on Park Boulevard and great nightlife venues such as alternative BOURBON STREET and the cozy alternative MYSTIC MOCHA, among our favorite breakfast venues in town. Considerably less developed and more affordable than nearby Hillcrest, many alternative businesses and handcraft shops relocated here to UH when rents became too high elsewhere. TWIGGS cafe and bakery on Park Boulevard ranks among another one of our favorites here.

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Further afield the seaside communities of PACIFIC BEACH and OCEAN BEACH beckon with attractive boardwalks and beach areas. While Ocean beach has become a trendy and rather bohemian neighborhood in recent years featuring many cafes, local eateries and boutiques, Pacific Beach still thrives mostly on beach visitors with sun worshipers, skateboarders and beachball junkies frequenting the area along its attractive boardwalk and beach itself. Architecturally, Pacific Beach is also slightly more built up and less homogenous than its counterpart further south, due in part to PB's unique geographical location including a promontory Northwest of Sea World and Downtown San Diego separated by SAIL Bay and FIESTA Bay. Ocean Beach by contrast is less developed featuring more low-level housing and an overall more residential environment. Both feature popular Piers with great views of the beaches and surfers nearby. In addition, OB's pier boasts an attractive cafe & restaurant at its tip, a perfect venue for brunch on a sunny Sunday morning.

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Finally there is always Downtown San Diego - yet even here we find true community spirit in the form of the historic GASLAMP QUARTER. Leaving behind modern & busy HORTON PLAZA mall, we pass numerous restored historic buildings along MARKET STREET such as the BALBOA & READING theaters or the PENN HOTEL as well as neatly developed inner city residential properties. Here near the Convention Center and the famous San Diego trolley to San Ysidro at the Mexican border, some of the best city redevelopment was carried out on HARBOR DRIVE with an eye on urban renewal and reviving downtown. Countless nightlife and dining options beckon here in the Gaslamp Quarter among them the HARD ROCK Cafe San Diego as well as CROCE's Restaurant named after late singer JIM CROCE. The Gaslamp Quarter and central San Diego are thus the place of choice for weekend entertainment for locals and visitors alike.

Local San Diego I: Discovering Balboa Park

2010-11-24T22:25:00.001-08:00

Visitors to San Diego will undoubtedly set foot onto the precious premises of Balboa Park - the green gem and natural retreat of San Diego, and among others, home to the world-famous San Diego Zoo. Yet Balboa Park has an infinite number of attractions, both well-publicized and hidden, and as such, tends to cater to visitors and locals alike. For that reason, Balboa Park constitutes a wonderful meeting point between visitors and locals, where the former become acquainted with true local Southern California hospitality and the latter engage in fruitful exchanges with a vast variety of cultural and artistic impulses in a spectacular and unique natural setting. For that reason, Balboa Park is a main tourist attraction and a treasure off the beaten track in its own right, combining the best of both, most of which is totally free of charge.

For hiking, biking and other outdoor recreational activities, the part of Balboa Park located EAST of FLORIDA DRIVE, MORLEY FIELD, offers the best conditions, including numerous sports facilities as well as hiking and biking trails. The only point of connection to the other side of the park is at MORLEY FIELD DRIVE, which can be used to cross Florida Drive and to resume biking and hiking trails right up to ZOO PLACE and the first gardens of Balboa Park itself. On the East Side of PARK BLVD. we find the spectacular DESERT GARDEN developed for the 1935 San Diego World Exposition, featuring rare species of cacti, aloes and agaves from around the world. As a noteable contrast, we find the colorful ROSE GARDEN immediately adjacent to it, boasting over 1600 roses of more than 120 varieties. These gardens are connected to the central sections of Balboa Park by way of a foot bridge across Park Boulevard, which leads us to the San Diego Natural History Museum, the gateway to the nucleus of museums and attractions in the park itself.

Inspired by its hispanic heritage, EL PRADO is the "main street" of Balboa Park and buzzing with activities and attractions year-round. Here we find many outstanding museums catering to all visitors foreign and local alike, most of them entirely free of charge. They include the Timken Museum of Art, San Diego Museum of Art, Sculpture Garden and the spectacular BOTANICAL BUILDING built for the 1915 Panama-California Exhibition and home to over 2100 permanent plants as well as seasonal displays. Due to its scenic and educational appeal, Balboa Park is the perfect venue for both families and individuals alike offering both quiet and secluded corners as well as a plethora of free educational material and inspiration for all visitors.

At the opposite end of EL PRADO we find PLAZA DE PANAMA with an information kiosk as well as the Balboa Park VISITOR CENTER located in the beautifully restored HOUSE OF HOSPITALITY. The tourist infrastructure, informational content and modern marketing scheme of Balboa Park is highly admirable and noteworthy, with free WIFI available near the information kiosks and a great IPhone/IPod app available free of charge for download from ITunes to help visitors find attractions and navigate through the Park by GPS. Every day at 1 pm a free guided walking tour is offered to guests, departing from the inner courtyard at the House of Hospitality and covering all major park attractions.

Heading South from PLAZA DE PANAMA we come across one of the leading highlights, SPRECKEL'S ORGAN PAVILLION, featuring a giant outside organ used for frequent free concert events in the Park. For lovers of more trails and nature, the adjacent PALM CANYON beckons, with a total of over 60 species of Palms and large Magnolia trees. Originally also developed for the 1915 Panama-California Exhibition, the wooden footbridge and hiking trails were added in the 1970s to maximize the visitor experience here.

Following our thorough exploration of the central sections of Balboa Park, we head further West passing the OLD GLOBE THEATER and the San Diego Museum of Man, finally leaving the premises of the main park by way of the CABRILLO BRIDGE, crossing over a huge canyon and enjoying splendid views of Downtown san Diego to our left. As we approach 6th Avenue, our last stop is at the "Founders' Plaza" paying tribute of the founders of San Diego & Balboa park itself. Here numerous lawns, meadows and recreational facilties beckon and invite locals and visitors alike to rest on the lawn or play volleyball. People Watching is by far among our favorite activities here, as we rest and recover from our lengthy exploration of this magnificent park area, the very symbol of quality of life here in San Diego and a fine example of true Southern California hospitality.

Hiking Mount Diablo

2010-11-20T14:09:00.001-08:00

Northern California has wonderful outdoor recreational options and certainly more to offer visitors than just the urban charm of San Francisco.The Bay Area as a whole features vast expanses of park and wilderness territory just outside the metropolitan areas of San Francisco, Oakland and San Jose. Scenically nestled in the less developed sections of the East Bay, we find Mount Diablo State Park - a true oasis of quiet and solitude amidst the suburban sprawl of the nearby East Bay communities of Concord, Walnut Creek, Danville and San Ramon. For that reason, an excursion to Mount Diablo ranks among a true treasure-off-the-beaten-track experience featuring an infinite number of hiking and adventure trails amidst spectacular natural scenery and with no crowds or modern-day distractions disturbing the peaceful untouched setting.

We begin approaching Mount Diablo State Park from the North - leaving Interstate 680 at Ygnacio Valley Boulevard in Walnut creek to continue eastward towards the communities of Clayton and Concord. We turn right onto Clayton Boulevard and continue for about one mile. It is here that we take MITCHELL CANYON Road South and gradually uphill towards the lower slopes of Mount Diablo. With each passing mile, traffic becomes lighter and buildings sparser. Soon we witness a quarry opening up to our right, then first groves of pine woods to lead us to the entrance gate of Mount Diablo State Park. Here a Park Entrance Charge of $6 is deposited into a pay box based on a visitor honor system, and shortly thereafter we reach a parking lot adjacent to a visitor center open only on weekends as well as restroom and picnic facilities.

From the Mount Diablo Parking Lot numerous hiking trails branch off, the main path being MITCHELL CANYON trail itself, which we first take to leave behind the parking area and gradually ascend the lower slopes of the Mountain. We are surrounded by nothing but nature, dry and marked by drought but nonetheless beautiful with various shades of green and brown of both corniferous and deciduous trees indiginous to Northern California including BLUE OAK, pine, chestnut and California buckeye trees.

After about 10-15 minutes gradual ascent, a trail veers off to the Right in the direction of BLACK POINT, which makes for a worthwhile 2-3 hour excursion. Here the incline becomes significantly steeper, and local oak trees such as the common COAST LIVE OAK increasingly give way to smaller shrubs and bushes. We also witness significant fauna along the way including bluebirds and lizards. In springtime many flower varieties bloom and blossom here, among them the FAIRY LANTERN, MONKEY FLOWER and California Sisters.
Black Point leads us up to an elevation of 1800 feet, which makes for a manageable 2-3 hour hike along with magnificent views of the surrounding countryside and East Bay communities. For more ambitious hikers, Mount Diablo can also be discovered in its entirety on a 14 mile hike to 3800 feet at Diablo Peek. Warm or layered clothes may be advisable, as the area is infamous for its variable microclimate - snow may fall early in November while hiking in the sun may turn out to be a scorchingly hot experience. So putting on or off layers is usually the best choice.

The best aspect about hiking Mount Diablo, however, is its amazing sense of soltitude, particularly surprising given its close proximity to densely populated communities in the East Bay and notoriously gridlocked freeways in the area. During many hikes to Mount Diablo, few fellow visitors may be encountered along with an occasional biker or horseback rider. So following precious moments of solitude and scenic beauty on Mount Diablo, we may then opt to settle for a drink or meal in nearby Concord to round up our perfect day of hiking here in Northern California.

The Rustic Charms of Boulder City

2010-11-12T16:41:00.001-08:00

Even the locals love this place - when Nevadans need to escape the bland suburban sprawl and casino scene of Las Vegas, they head about 20 miles East to Boulder City. This Small Town America still radiates community spirit hard to find elsewhere in Clark County.
This is certainly a Treasure off the Beaten Track destination, as tourists are few and locals work hard at preserving their community's heritage and small town flair.

The history of Boulder City can be summorized in a nutshell: built in the 1930s to house workers building nearby HOOVER DAM, it looks back at not even a century of existence. Yet then again, all of Southern Nevada is quintessentially a product of the 20th century. And Boulder City pursued a radically different approach towards its urban conservation and community policies than nearby greater Las Vegas. To start with HOUSING, for instance, where for many years building ordinances were among the strictest and new developments limited to just a minor number annually. For that reason, Boulder City's real estate prices did not experience the same boom-gone-bust trajectory as the overdeveloped areas of Henderson and Las Vegas. In addition, this gem of a small town has always preserved its old buildings rather than blowing them up or tearing them down, resulting in an authentic Western-style old town with 50s diners, an old community theater and the remnants of an old drug store from the 1960s.

So nothing better on a sunny day off than to escape to Boulder City's well-preserved small-town bliss, centering around its main street featuring many original buildings from the 1950s. Even the drive into downtown Boulder City is a delight for the senses, as we pass numerous original motels and inns from bygone decades. Still functioning and open to visitors today, they may provide a blast-from-the-past overnighting experience to visitors from abroad or nearby Las Vegas. Then great food beckons in downtown Boulder City ranging from the 50s Diner to our own local favorite, Tony's Pizza. Yet voted "Best of Las Vegas" is nearby Boulder Dam Brewing Company, featuring a delightful outside terrace for lunch or dinner.

As we stroll through what has been dubbed the "HISTORIC QUARTER" of Boulder City, we witness numerous buildings attesting to the boom times during the construction of Hoover Dam, including the "BOULDER DAM MUSEUM", the "BOULDER THEATER" still offering regular community performances such as the Nutcracker for Christmas, the former NEVADA DRUG store, of which the tall sign from the 1960s still remains standing, and numerous other historic original houses from the community's pioneer days. We take delight in soaking in the small city's cultural and artistic touch, with numerous art galleries and antique stores luring visitors inside for a journey into the past or the world of contemporary Arts, the latter culminating in Boulder city's Arts Festival, covering the entire Park Area just above downtown.

Yet even during the quieter times of the year, a visit to the downtown park offers a nice green respite from the arid desert scenery elsewhere nearby. And leaving the park uphill towards the residential parts of town, we are rewarded with the true highlight of Boulder city's magnificent location: a view over LAKE MEAD, where the blue of the water meets the blue of the desert sky along with various shades of brown and grey of the Desert Mountains of Southern Nevada. Many a time have I ventured from here towards nearby LAKE MEAD NATIONAL RECREATION AREA to seek solitude and bask in its surreal natural beauty as a worthy antidote to the surreal urban area nearby which is Las Vegas, Nevada. And driving back towards the city at dusk, coming over the Railroad Pass entering Henderson from Boulder City, we are at full sight of this spectacular surreal urban skyline, shining like an aurora in front of us on the horizon, an oasis of light in the middle of the Mojave Desert.

Exploring La Jolla & Mount Soledad

2010-11-03T13:06:00.000-07:00

Visitors to the Southwestern US usually focus on Greater Los Angeles with its attractions of Hollywood and Disneyland or head right to the area's natural wonders like Yosemite and the Grand Canyon. Fewer by far tend to dedicate time to San Diego or the sights of the nearby Mojave Desert, which we would like to cover in even greater detail in upcoming weeks here on Euroquest Sidetracks. Among those who do decide to visit Greater San Diego, the majority will stay in Old Town or see Balboa Park along with the city's world-famous zoo. Yet communities in the surrounding area equally hold great appeal and offer visitors a chance to experience a local side of San Diego along with its splendid Southern California hospitality. No better place than the seaside resort of La Jolla about 10 miles north of Downtown San Diego. Here we find the perfect set-up for a magical day away from the daily grind featuring spectacular coastline, a quaint and artistic inner city, a German brewery and nearby Mount Soledad for hiking and exploring the area's military legacy.

Leaving behind central San Diego we head North on I-5 and then West on La Jolla Parkway to reach the coastline near the village center of La Jolla. We can sense this is an affluent resort community with well-maintained roads and neatly landscaped gardens. The further uphill, the more prestigious the mansions become, giving testimony to the wealth and power of local residents. For starters we stay in the village center, however, boasting a wonderful beach area with both rocks and sand, numerous scrumpotious lunch options at nearby eateries, as well as a scenic subsidiary of the KARL STRAUSS brewery, San Diego's oldest and best-known local microbrewery of German descent. Our favorite lunch venue, however, is EXTREME PIZZA in downtown La Jolla offering fresh yet reasonable custom-made pizza catering to all likes and tastes.

Following our delicious lunch we head to nearby Mount Soledad, initially ascending on Soledad Parkway and then continuing uphill on Hillside Drive. The view opens up to the wide Pacific and La Jolla's coastline below, as exclusive homes on tastefully landscaped premises surround us. Here we also hear about La Jolla's recent history as an exclusive suburban San Diego community and its initial controversial policy of antisemitism surrounding local residency there, a discriminatory practice only abandoned as late as the 1960s.

Our destination is nearby Mount Soledad featuring a huge cross erected on its top in 1954. Since then the area was converted into a Korean War Veteran Memorial in the 1960s and has since then attracted controversy for featuring a cross on public land, an alleged violation of the separation of Church and State. That legal issue has since remained unresolved, but the real beauty of Mount Soledad may be seen in its lush vegetation along with numerous trails that invite for hiking and exploring the nearby hillside. No matter what side of the mountain we look down from, the views are spectacular throughout, ranging from Downtown San Diego to our South, to La Jolla and the Pacific Coastline just underneath us to the West, and I-5 with the nearby Mormon Temple and the grounds of UCSD University towards the North and East. Following our hike around Mt. Soledad we then decide to rest by the beach at nearby BLACK's BEACH, the area's most famous alternative nudist beach. The descent along the rocks is strenuous but we are rewarded by miles of unspoilt beach and the untamed waves of the open Pacific Ocean.

Discovering Art in Las Vegas

2010-10-27T11:50:00.000-07:00

Las Vegas has always been known as the the shimmering gambling metropolis in the middle of the arid Mojave Desert. Hardly anyone thinks of Southern Nevada when talking about Culture & the Arts. In fact, many would agree that culturally speaking, the greater Las Vegas area is just as much a desert wasteland as it is geographically. And in deed, High Culture seems far removed from the Neon lights on the Las Vegas Strip. Yet among the many missions of Euroquest Sidetracks, one has been to continuously question and dismantle stereotypes, and to seek alternative spaces amidst the mainstream. This week's contribution marks no difference, as we shall focus on the vibrant modern Las vegas Arts scene centered around E Charleston Boulevard.

The history of Modern Art in Las Vegas is closely tied to the history of the FIRST FRIDAY event celebrated monthly since 2002. It nowadays attracts up to 10000 visitors and covers the 18 major blocks around the Las Vegas Arts center (locally refered to as 18B). Five blocks are even pedestrianized for the event, celebrated the first Friday of every month and involving all major art galleries and community art centers in town. Updated program listings may be found on their website at http://www.firstfriday-lasvegas.org/aboutus.html. As even Las Vegas Mayor Oscar Goodman once remarked: "First Friday is the best thing that ever happened to Las Vegas." Truly a family-type event with a welcoming atmosphere for everyone, it offers a unique opportunity to present, promote and sell their art work and to make their voices heard community-wide.

Another center piece of the local Arts Scene is the Arts Factory located on East Charleston Boulevard. It marks the beginning of the center town's artsy gentrification project. A stone's throw away from the newly developed Premier Outlet Mall attracting thousands of visitors daily, the Arts Factory poses an impressive contrast to the otherwise bland modern tourist and commercial infrastructure. Once the brain child of pioneer artist Wes Myles Isbutt, the building today houses up to 23 artists and their workshops. Inspired by similar loft-style arts centers in San Francisco and New York City, it marks a refreshingly contemporary artistic feel for what otherwise is a rather economically challenged area of Las vegas. To truly savor the artistic quality of the workshops located here, it may be worthwhile to stop by on a regular work day and enjoy browsing through the factory at leisure with no crowds or distractions. Again, further information may be found on the Arts Factory's web site at www.theartsfactory.com.

Inspired by the workshops at the Arts Factory, the exhibits at the First Friday event, we may then delve into the riches of Las Vegas' antique scene by visiting the many antique and second hand stores located in and around the 18B neighborhood. The biggest and most impressive display of second-hand treasures may be found at the Charleston Antique Mall and the adjacent Red Rooster Store. Although their address is listed as W Charleston Blvd. near I-15, neither store can actually be reached from Charleston but must be accessed from the back along Western Avenue. Lovers of second-hand merchandise will enjoy the vast variety, friendly staff and competitive prices here. Following plentiful art inspiration in the shadows of the Stratosphere Tower we then proceed for local culinary delights in either the Latin areas of Las vegas's East side - or for great Asian food, the China and Korea town neighborhoods on the city's near West Side.

Bulgarian Discoveries IV: Folkloric Traditions in Erketch

2010-10-20T19:28:00.000-07:00

No visit to Bulgaria is ever complete without witnessing a traditional Folkore evening with local food, costumes, dance and customs. Most ethnographers and alternative world travellers would cringe at the thought of a Folklore Dinner, but as so many things in life, it all depends on WHERE and HOW it is done. For that reason, our fourth and last contribution on Bulgaria leads us to the remote mountain village of ERKETCH, nowadays called KOZICHINO, abour 30 minutes West of Nessebar/Sunny Beach, where such authentic Folkore traditions are still alive today.

Most organized Folkore evenings begin with a visit to a genuine Bulgarian farm house in the countryside, and such visits allow guests a worthwhile glimpse into the real daily life of rural Bulgarians. Many dwellers in remote areas of Bulgaria are striving towards self-sufficiency, planting their own fruit and vegetables, as well as keeping their own lifestock for dairy products and meat consumption. Most old farmhouses still lack modern-day installations, and locals still use an OUTHOUSE as a bathroom, albeit modernized with plumbing and running water. The farm visit may also include a display of common harvesting equipment, including wheat threshers and other machinery used in agriculture. Everywhere we witness lifestock running freely and wildly in the countryside and inside the villages. Not seldom do cars need to stop for indefinite periods in front of a huge herd of sheep blocking the roadways.

Upon arrival at the Folkore venue, guests are greeted the traditional Bulgarian way with Bagpipe Music, home-made bread and a shot of RAKIA, the local brandy. Bulgaria along with Scotland and the Basque Region ranks as only the third country featuring the bagpipe as its traditional instrument, although here in the Balkans the bagpipe sounds are quite different from the Scottish Highlands. Their tune is eerier, irregular and more amelodic, more reminiscent of snake charmers with a touch of the surreal.

Menu-wise the Folklore Dinner consists of traditional Bulgarian CHOPSKA salad (cucumbers and tomatoes topped with feta cheese) followed by stew-like vegetable soup, a meat dish (usually pork or chicken) with condiments as a main course, as well as local deserts such as sweet BAKLAVA cake. The meal is accompanied by limitless local Bulgarian wine both red and white. Not far from Erketch, further below in the plains, we find the famous KARNOBAT wine growing region of Bulgaria, and many wines served here for meals hail from this prosperous viticultural area.

Eerie tunes resume for the actual Folklore performance featuring both male and female dancers dressed in local costumes. Their dance is cheerful, upbeat and invigorating, while the music is strangely exotic, eery and surreal including more amelodic passages typical of the Shaman traditions in this remote part of Europe. The true highlight, however, is the nightly display of the NESTINARI, the so-called fire dancers, walking barefoot over hot charcoals spread from an outdoor fire across a small square. The tradition is equally associated with Shamanism in Bulgaria and since Orthodox Christianity came to the Balkans in the 9th century, has been adapted to feature the fire dancer carry across over the fire during his performance. Accompanied by more eery bagpipe music, the NESTINARI performance is a stark reminder of the very exoticism of local traditions, beliefs and customs, and a worthwhile local introduction to Bulgarian Culture for both mainstream and alternative visitors alike.

Bulgarian Discoveries III: Karandila, Kotel & Jeravna

2010-10-13T17:35:00.000-07:00

In order to experience Bulgaria the local way, it is imperative to leave behind the tourist infrastructure on the Black Sea Coast and head inland for at least 1 to 2 hours by bus, car or motorbike. Here the true Bulgaria may be found, and the Balkan countryside may surprise outside observers by its stark beauty, variety of landscape and also its dire poverty. This is the forgotten Europe, and little has changed during the past two decades following the fall of communism. A combination of post-communist neglect and ubiquitous Bulgarian corruption has kept the funds flowing into the wrong pockets. Since much of said culture originates in the capital Sofia, most is kept and spent there, while little if any trickles down to the countryside. Equally, for young people it is thus important to seek opportunities in urban areas, as rural Bulgaria hardly offers sustainable prospects for their future.

As we head East from Nessebar or Burgas, the next larger town, KARNOBAT, reflects the entire misery of rural Bulgaria, featuring numerous sites of communist-era heavy industrial plants since shut down and left to rot to eternity. Everywhere we see Eastern Europe's grey pre-fab apartment blocks, yet here of the worst run-down and dilapidated variety. It is a stark reminder that there ARE still areas even within the European Union stricken by dire poverty and marked by administrative neglect. Yet beyond such dilapidated towns and villages, a Bulgaria of great beauty awaits us, as we are gradually climbing up towards the STARA PLANINA mountains, the huge mountain range dividing Bulgaria into North and South and giving the name to the entire geographical area: the BALKANS. Here we find fertile plains used for agriculture giving way to rolling hills used as grass land and then shrubs and evergreens in wooden areas at higher elevations.

Our first stop is KOTEL, a true Bulgarian Revival gem with many intact buildings dating from the 19th century inside the village center. Here we find the community's Ethnographic Museum, where locally made carpets are on display and the art of carpet weaving is explained to visitors. Unlike Turkey, this is not a commercial venue and noone is ever talked into purchases. In fact, none of the carpets on display are actually for sale here. Kotel also features a Bulgarian Revival House Museum, detailing elements of said 19th century Bulgarian architecture, with courtyards, summer kitchen, basement-level stone facade followed by first-floor wooden facades. Inside there is a small interior balcony for musicians and several bedrooms, including a single room for the oldest daughter for her to weave, knit and acquire the tools and skills for successful domestic bliss later. Certainly we notice a highly conservative and traditionalist outlook on life out here in the countryside. The same holds true for the many goats, donkeys and sheep, freely running around local highways and even inside village centers.

Next we proceed to nearby JERAVNA, another Bulgarian Revival gem and among the most scenic villages in Eastern Bulgaria. Although certainly used to tourism, the village itself is quintessentially rural with wild animals, farmers and many unpaved passages and roads inside the village. Here we find many worthwhile restaurants and cafes for a mid-day lunch stop or snack, along with locals selling home-knit goods and handicrafts. The prices are higher here though than in Kotel, reflecting the more popular tourist status of Jeravna. Also, the community features an interesting Bulgarian Revival-Era Orthodox Church, worth visiting both in its interior and outside.

Finally we make our way to the National Reserve of KARANDILA, just North of Sliven. This should best be done in sunny warm weather, as the area reveals its true beauty with blue skies and higher temperatures. It is hiking territory par excellence and here hiking is still a totally unconventional activity. There are no marked trails and certainly nothing in the way of infrastructure catering to hikers or, in the winter, skiers. As we proceed sharply uphill, the view opens up towards the Black Sea and Sliven below, and at the peak at about 800 meters we find a chair lift station from the 1970s but still in working order today. It is a delight in sunny weather to ride the chairlift down to SLIVEN, or rather to the valley station just above the town at 300 meters.

The difference in altitude of about 500 meters can be bridged on the chair lift in about 20 minutes.Sliven, although advertised as the gateway to Karandila with some local attractions, is hardly a beautiful place and features the same run-down communist era industrial cityscape as so many other local towns in Bulgaria. We thus return on the highway towards Burgas basking in the experience of great Bulgarian rural beauty in the Stara Planina mountains yet also aware of the stark contrast between such beauty and the dire poverty of much of its local population.

Black Sea Discoveries II: Sights along the Black Sea Coast

2010-10-05T00:48:00.000-07:00

Most visitors to Bulgaria come during the summer peak as part of a hotel & flight package, flying into Burgas and staying at a nearby resort, such as Sunny Beach or Nessebar. While such visits are hardly inspiring beyond the hotel, beach & pool routine, there are several alternative attractions for visitors to discover in the area, which may break the package-deal monotony and introduce guests to more local sites and experiences. For such alternative activities, best to rent a car for a day or two, or to make use of local bus connections.

The undeniable gem of the Bulgarian Black Sea is NESSEBAR, originally a Thracian and later a Greek settlement (Messambria) on a peninsula declared a WORLD HERITAGE SITE by the UNESCO in 1983. Here the key is timing, as Nessebar reveals its true magic only when tour groups are absent, which is in early May or late September. Otherwise the small town turns into a Bulgarian kitch Disneyland with hundreds of kitch souvenir stands catering to thousands of tour groups - thus hardly a Treasure off the Beaten Track destination. In fact, during the peak of summer, the onslought of tour groups and souvenir stands tends to be so bad, that the true monuments, such as the many byzantine churches and Bulgarian Revival houses, can hardly be noticed. So best to keep Nessebar for early or very late in the season, when many of the shops are closed and crowds are absent. Then the must-sees of Nessebar include its fantastic Archeological Museum by the ancient City Gate & Wall along with its plethora of Byzantine and Ottoman-Era churches and relics.

Much quieter and more subdued than Nessebar is Bulgaria's second Black Sea gem- SOZOPOL. It even precedes Nessebar age-wise going back to early Thracian times, but many original monuments and churches were destroyed during a powerful 1913 earthquake in the Balkans. Since then, Sozopol has been rebuilt with more modern architecture, although several churches and 19th century Bulgarian Revival houses still remain. The largest church in central Sozopol, the 19th century orthodox St. George's church, is purported to have the remains of St. John the Baptist inside, which attracts numerous pilgrims from Bulgaria and beyond. Following Thracian rule, Sozopol became a Greek settlement called APOLLONIA, with the Greek name still used today for the annual Apollonia Arts Festival in early September attracting thousands of visitors interested in the Arts, Music and Poetry. Strongly recommended for food and drink is the popular WINDMILL restaurant at the tip of the Sozopol peninsula as well as the many cafes along the northern boardwalk, with splending views of the Black Sea and nearby Sozopol beach.

Apart from the undeniable highlights of Nessebar and Sozopol, there are numerous other nice activities and sites for visitors to the area, yet hardly any of them overwhelming, however, and few if any inspiring a true introduction to Bulgarian local ways and culture. Among such activities, a cruise on the nearby ROPOTAMO river may stand out, or a visit to the salt town of POMORIE with its Salt Museum, Thracian Tombs and St. George's monastery. Numerous local wineries, such as Chateau Medovo about 20 minutes outside of Pomorie, also beckon for wine tastings and souvenir shopping. Although hardly a beautiful city, BURGAS may yet prove to be the most rewarding regional destination for a taste of local Bulgarian culture. As the country's 4th largest city, it boasts an attractive pedestrian zone, modern shopping facilities and local infrastructure, which allows guests to savor how locals go about their daily affairs. Its nearby Sea Garden is equally attractive and worthwhile for strolls and coffee breaks. While sipping a Latte at a downtown Burgas outdoor cafe, we thus enjoy our Bulgarian Black Sea adventures the local way as a nice and marked contrast to the more touristic venues further North and South along the Coast.

Black Sea Discoveries I: The Urban Charms of Varna

2010-09-30T12:48:00.000-07:00

When it comes to European Travel Destinations, Bulgaria still ranks among the more exotic destinations. In part due to its geopolitical location and post-communist legacy, this Balkan gem has had an ambiguous relationship to modern-day tourism, which in part helps to explain its outsider status. Once in the country, however, differences abound between heavily developed tourist resorts and untouched authentic infrastructure (or lack thereof). Although Bulgaria was able to join the European Union in 2007, the country is still a far cry away from Western European economic development and thus lacks a modern transportation network and other Western ammenities. It is precisely its lack of cohesive development and the contrast between modern "private investment" on the one hand and public neglect on the other, that makes for Bulgaria's greatest charm and attraction.

Among all the destinations in Bulgaria, Varna ranks high on the list of most visitors. Dubbed by many as Bulgaria's inofficial summer capital, the country's third largest city (population 380 000) boasts beautiful coastline, favorable weather and an attractive inner city. According to recent polls, most Bulgarians would prefer to live in Varna, while other statistics show that the highest quality of life in Bulgaria can be found here in the old "Odessos" (its original Greek name) on the Black Sea Coast. During the peak of summer, it may be recommended to avoid Varna altogether, as half of Bulgaria seems to descend on the nearby Black Sea shore, but in late spring and early fall, the city reveals its true charm combining urban elements of both a local administrative center and a popular tourist resort.

A few days would be advisable as a minimum for a stay to savor the true spirit of Bulgaria's favorite city, with many decent inexpensive hotels beckoning tourists in and around the central city. Here first and foremost the magnificent Orthodox Cathedral stands out - a landmark of Bulgarian Revival architecture following the end of Ottoman rule in the 19th century. Officially inaugurated in 1886, the "Dormition of the Theotokos Cathedral" ranks among the largest and most famous Orthodox Cathedrals in Eastern Europe and was built within only 6 years (1880-1886). Beautifully illuminated at night, it is an immediate eye-catcher and among the city's most famous landmarks. It also marks the beginning of Varna's attractive pedestrian area, which radiates along an axis of two parallel sea-bound streets connected horizontally in the center.

Nothing more charming than to set out on a stroll down Varna's pedestrian zone with the Cathedral as our point of departure. As we pass the city's central court house on the left and main theater on the right, we then reach Bulgaria's answer to TGI Fridays, the popular restaurant chain HAPPY. It was founded here on the Black Sea in the 1990s (http://www.happy.bg/en/home.html) and still ranks high as the perfect hang-out for a light meal and fabulous people watching. Continuing along the principal horizontal side street, we pass many attractive local shops, cafes and restaurants before reaching the second pedestrian main street right at the communist-era highrise of the CHERNO MORE hotel, an unlikely landmark of sorts, but still highly popular for overnight accomodation due to its central city location. Turning right, we then follow the pedestrian street as far as the sea shore and the famous PRIMORSKI PARK - Varna's world-famous sea garden.

Continuing towards the shore itself, we find Varna's slightly neglected city beach, a hodgepodge of privately developed and leased beach-front cabins and businesses on the one hand and dilapidated neglected public infrastructure on the other hand. Stunningly beautiful nonetheless, it is only at second glance that these differences become obvious to outside observers and makes visitors wonder how beautiful this city and, in fact, the entire country could truly be and become if it were to release its true potential and shake off its post-communist and corruption-era mismanagement.

The same holds true to the sea garden, PRIMORSKI PARK, where just a tad more landscaping and public care could increase its wellness factor considerably. It nonetheless surprises visitors as a wonderful park area between the sea and the inner city, a welcome escape and refuge for Varna's many summer visitors and city-weary locals. Wandering through the park during daytime, we see families, open-air concerts and dance performances, lovers looking for privacy and joggers running along its many trails. Again, a perfect venue for people watching and soul searching, it breathes the spirit of the Black Sea and radiates the very essence of Varna's maritime charm.

Heading back up the pedestrian street away from the sea, in the direction of Varna's world-famous Archeological Museum, we decide to turn right and head to Bulgaria's other restaurant chain success story - Godzila (http://www.godzila.bg/site1024_en.html) for a great evening bite and to mingle further with the city's friendly young and dynamic locals. Nothing better than to toast with friends old and new to Bulgaria's favorite city - with a glass or two of Rakia, the local brandy - NAZDRAVE to the new, up and coming Bulgaria!

Outdoor Delight around Mammoth Lakes

2010-09-24T12:46:00.000-07:00

Hiking and the great outdoors are still exceptional ways to experience treasures off the beaten track, to seek solitude and explore unique destinations. The area around Yosemite National Park in California lends itself to such exploration, yet within the confines and limitations of the park area. Just a few miles further East of Yosemite, however, there are numerous smaller pockets of unchartered territory with greater flexibility and potential, as they fall outside the boundaries of the National Park. Among them, the area around Mono Lake and Mammoth Lakes stands out for its scenic beauty and variety of outdoor activities. Using Las Vegas, Nevada as a base, Mammoth Lakes thus lends itself perfectly as a long weekend getaway destination.

The drive North to Mammoth is already an adventure in itself - passing through the moonscape of Death Valley National Park with a possible stop at Scotty's Castle, we eventually join Hwy 395 North-bound passing through some of the most deserted and neglected areas of California including the towns of Independence and Bishop, CA, administrative centers of Inyo County and the central Mojave Desert in California. Yet further North, the scenery begins to change and more vegetation can be found along the highway, including shrubs and small trees. It marks the beginning of the Inyo National Forest with marked changes in climate and altitude as we pass the dried-out area around Lake Crowley on the right. Soon the mountains begin in earnest, with snow-capped peaks in winter time of up to 7000 ft. The area around Mammoth Lakes and Mammoth mountains is geologically highly active with hot springs and rhyolite domes of less than 1000 years of age. For that reason, Mammoth boasts a variety of outdoor activities from skiing in the winter to unique hiking and outdoor thermal springs adventures almost year-round.

The town of Mammoth Lakes is hardly a well-kept secret anymore and shows signs of the same suburban sprawl experienced nationwide, albeit in moderate degrees. Its official population of 10000 inhabitants can easily double in number during the winter peak, when many Coastal Californians head inland for skiing and hiking delight in the mountains. For that reason, though, it boasts a good infrastructure with sufficient hotel rooms of all categories, great restaurants and some evening activities. The town thus lends itself as a perfect base for day trips into the surrounding mountains. Mammoth Mountain ranks among the most interesting, as it was formed by volcanic eruptions only 57000 years ago, extremely recent in geological terms. The mountain still produces hazardous volcanic gases that affect tree growth and shape the scenery of the surrounding forest area. Many trees, for instance, appear damaged or dead from what first seems like a forest fire, but at second sight turns out to be the effect of hazardous sulphor gas from Mammoth Mountain.

The area boasts phenomenal hiking and skiing opportunities, particularly heading North on the Mammoth Lakes Loop passing Old Mammoth on the left. Numerous lakes at different altitude levels beckon for a break to seek solitude, have picnics or go on extensive hikes of the surrounding mountain area. Following a day worth of hiking, nothing better to soak our tired sore muscles in some of the local hot springs, many of which are in the outdoors and form part of the natural springs stemming from the geologically active Mammoth Mountain. During daytime we particularly like the springs around Hot Creek Ranch, which can be reached by heading South on Hwy 395 and turning left on a small dirt road before reaching Convict Lake. Those are best visited during daytime, however, while the publically marked outdoor springs to the right off Hwy 395 South of Mammoth are best enjoyed at night, with the Moon light illuminating both the trail and the springs themselves. Mammoth Lakes is thus a perfect venue to seek wellness, solitude, to hike the great outdoors and to feel alive & well far away from tourist crowds.

Mojave Desert Gems: Salt Creek Reserve & Christ of the Andes

2010-09-15T12:22:00.000-07:00

The Mojave Desert in the Soutwest has always been among our favorite treasures-off-the-beaten-track destinations. From the fields of Joshua Trees in the East Mojave Preserve to the thermal delights of Tecopa Hot Springs, the desert is alive and full of hidden surprises. We have in previous articles already covered several such destinations but would like to turn to two desert gems that very few visitors ever get to see during their Mojave explorations. Both can be covered within an exciting day trip from Las Vegas, and can be combined with several other highlights of the Desert Southwest. They are the fragile wetlands of the Salt Creek Reserve and the paranormal site of the Christ of the Andes.

We embark on our journey on Interstate 15 towards Primm, NV, stop there for refreshments and shopping, then cross over into California and continue to the small town of Baker about 60 miles further. Here we leave I-15 and head north on SR 127 in the direction of Shoshone, CA and Death Valley National Park. Upon leaving behind Baker and the interstate, the view opens up to spectacular desert scenery marked by Joshua Trees, brown desert mountains and shortly thereafter the white sands of Dumont Dunes. A few miles before the Dumont turn-off, a small trail veers off to the right and leads to the parking lot of the Salt Creek Reserve, a true hidden desert oasis and part of the Mojave's fragile ecosystem. Here several desert springs along with winter drainage from nearby Silurian Valley converge to form Salt Creek, a major tributary to the Amargosa River. This source of fresh water in the harsh desert environment provides living room for Mesquite Trees, shrubs and marsh land, which are in turn the natural habitat for numerous animal species including big horn sheep for drinking, Gamble Quail and about 150 other different bird varieties.

From the parking lot, we walk along a narrow trail with partial views of the Dumont Dunes on one side and the open desert of the East Mojave Preserve on the other. We cross several bridges over small canyons and the reach the main course of the Salt Creek, marked on both sides by lush vegetation, an unusual site in the Mojave Desert. Here we can observe birds and learn more about this fragile habitat, which the Bureau of Land Management, along with several other government agencies, is trying to preserve by ensuring continuous water flow for the benefit of both the indigenous fauna and flora. The area around the Salt Creek Reserve also includes several openings and squares perfectly suited for picnics and BBQs, as well as numerous trails that invite us to further explore this magical desert oasis.

Following our visit to Salt Creek, we resume our drive North on SR 127, to enjoy several other regional highlights, such as the small town of SHOSHONE, gateway to Death Valley National Park, or we turn right on Old Spanish Trail Hwy to head to our favorite desert thermal springs in Tecopa. A true hidden gem of the paranormal kind, we can find further down on Old Spanish Trail Hwy in Cathedral Canyon. Just beyond the California-Nevada stateline crossing from Inyo over to Nye County, we reach a small dirt road to our left, Cathedral Canyon Rd. Following several miles of unpaved surface, a square opens up with abandoned cars, immediately adjacent to a canyon. Here we can already sense the paranormal, as so often the case in Southern Nevada and the Desert Southwest.

To our right a canyon opens up in what looks like a former cave church, featuring numerous smaller caves that used to function as side wings to the cave cathedral itself. Remnants of sculpures can be found in those side wings adding to our impression this site was still used not long ago as a place of worship. The clearest indication comes in the form of a huge Jesus statue in the center, with no arms or head. This statue gives the name to the entire venue, Christ of the Andes, and has been the subject of wild speculation as to its origins and religious purpose. Information regarding the Christ of the Andes is scarce - both online and in book stores. It has been the site of several investigations of the Paranormal Ghost Society (http://www.paranormalghostsociety.org/) as well as a chapter in an interesting book on "Weird Las Vegas & Nevada - an Alternative Travel Guide", truly attesting to this site's reputation as a treasure off the beaten track. It only received media coverage once, in 2007, as a featured site on Weird America (http://www.weirdamerica.com/2007/02/28/weird-america-at-cathedral-canyon). Here the paranormal meets the bizarre in what is among the unlikeliest locations of a place of religious worship. With a strange sense of amazement we head back to Old Spanish Trail Hwy connecting to SR 160 to either continue our drive towards Pahrump or to return to the equally surreal casino lights of Las Vegas in the middle of the Mojave Desert.

A Taste of Hungary: From Eger to the Bükk & Mátra Mountains

2010-09-09T14:55:00.000-07:00

Visitors to Central Europe usually focus on the "Grand Three" Imperial Cities Vienna, Budapest and Prague and hardly visit places outside of the capital cities. In the case of Hungary, tourists may go on a day trip to Szentendre, Visegrad and Esztergom along the Danube Bend, but few tend to venture further afield. Yet Hungary has many more highlights to offer, including the European City of Culture for 2010, PECS, in the Southwest or the many resorts and thermal spas around Lake Balaton. Further East and Southeast of Budapest, the Hungarian Puszta beckons with stereotypical images of horsemen, dusty farms and tasty Hungarian goulash. The town of Eger, about 1.5 hours East of Budapest, may not quite as easily be grasped by cultural stereotypes, yet offers one of the most scenic pedestrianized inner cities in Central Europe. Eger also marks as the gateway to both the Eger Winemaking Region and the scenically appealing Bükk and Mátra Mountains. For that reason, this quaint town of 60.000 inhabitants ranks among our main Treasures off the Beaten Track destinations in all of Central Europe.

Even the drive to Eger from Budapest is scenic, albeit hardly spectacular. Upon leaving the sprawling outskirts of Pest, buildings give way to lush green rolling hills with occasional villages and small towns along the way. Here we pass quite near to historic Gödöllö, known for its famous 18th century palace, where Elizabeth "Sissi" of Austria & beloved Queen of Hungary used to spend time. Near Gödöllö we may also opt to stop at a horsefarm en route to Eger - particularly the Lázár Equestrian Park, http://www.lazarlovaspark.hu, beckons with a neatly landscaped and well-maintained estate, impressive horsemanship performances and delicious local cuisine. As we continue on the M3 Motorway in the direction of Debrecen, we soon turn onto local highway 25 for the last 30 km to our destination, the famous small town of Eger. Here we also get to enjoy thermal spring waters, as the city boasts among the nicest and most affordable thermal pool facilities in all of Hungary.

Upon check-in at our local hotel, we first set out to discover the inner city of Eger, including its scenic pedestrian zone, catholic Cathedral and central square, DOBO TER. From here, it is only a short ascent up to 13th-century Eger Castle, where one of the most heroic victories of Hungarian history took place in the 1552 "Siege of Egger". It was here that only about 2000 men, women and children defended the town and castle from what some sources claim was up to 80000 Ottoman Turkish invaders, a feast of Hungarian resolve and pride that until today has been the subject of Hungarian history books and immortalized in the literary piece "Eclipse of the Crescent Moon" (1899) by Hungarian author Gárdonyi Géza. Between Dobo Square and Eger Castle, we also find numerous local vending booths and souvenir shops - it IS a tourist town after all, but within very tasteful and dignified proportions.

In the evening we set out to taste some of the wonderful local food and wine - the Eger region is famous for its red "Bull's Blood" brand (Egri Bikavér), best consumed at a wine cave or tavern in the nearby "Valley of Beautiful Women", the "Szépasszonyvölgye". Here we find a plethora of tasty local eateries, wine taverns and caves catering to visitors eager to enjoy the famous Goulash & Wine. Again, although a profoundly tourist experience, it is a far cry from the commercialized folklore dinners around Budapest or the tacky souvenir shops of Szentendre on the Danube Bend.

The Eger region also invites us to explore the surrounding Mátra and Bükk mountains. We particularly enjoy the half-hour drive to nearby SZILVASVARAD on the edge of the Bükk National Park. This small community of 1500 inhabitants is famous for its spectacular scenic location and horse breeding, particular Lipizzans. From the village of Szilvasvarad a small forest railway (kisvasut) runs along the Szalajka Valley up to the famous Veil Waterfalls. Numerous hiking trails and a unique open-air forestry museum are among the main attractions here. Following a day of hiking through the Bükk mountains, we then return to Eger to soak our tired muscles in the famous healthy radioactive spring waters of Eger's thermal bath.

Hiking the Sierra de Mariola near Alicante

2010-09-02T00:26:00.000-07:00

The interior of Alicante Province offers a plethora of activities away from the crowds - and especially numerous spectacular hiking routes to discover. Following our recent scenic hike along the Xorret de Catí, we decided to seek even more solitude and head yet further inland, about 1 hour north of Alicante Capital. Here, just outside the northern Alicantino town of Alcoy, a true hiking paradise beckons - and entirely devoid of crowds. The Sierra de Mariola, this high range of Mountains in the North of the Province is known as, offers a huge variety of hiking trails ranging in length from 1.5 to 6 hours. We opted for a medium-range circular hike of about 3 hours using the small community of AGRES as our base.

Even a 3-hour hiking route means leaving Alicante Capital rather early to take advantage of the morning hours. In summer time, it is also recommended to opt for a cooler overcast day, as otherwise the hike would become too strenous due to the heat. We initially travel north on the interior A7 "Autopista del Mediterráneo" in the direction of Valencia passing the mountain city of Alcoy in the North of Alicante Province. In the smaller community of MURO DE ALCOY, we leave the main highway and head on N340 and then CV700 towards the mountain village of AGRES - passing through the BARRANCO DE BALADRE before reaching the foothills of the Sierra de Mariola.

Upon leaving our vehicle in Agres, we start our ascent through narrow cobblestone alleyways. We stop for drinks & snacks at the main square near the Town Hall (Ajuntament) and the Església Sant Miquel Arcángel Church. Throughout Agres, we notice the beautiful fountains, many of which were carefully restored and retiled about 10 years ago. Heading further uphill we pass 2 of the prettiest fountains, FONTETA and FONT de l'ASSUT and arrive at the LLAVADOR - the wash hall of Agres, where in former times, clothes were washed by the locals.

From the LLAVADOR, the more strenuous part of the hike awaits us, as initially we must pass "L'ESCARAGOLA", a long staircase up towards Agres Convent. Gradually the view opens up towards Agres village and the valley of Alicante Province below. We pass several caves to the right and then circle around Agres Convent, which originally dates back to the 16th century and is currently under restoration. Once we leave behind the convent, the scenery turns lush, green and the air becomes fresh, as a slight scent of pine keeps us company during our ascent into the Sierra. What is to follow ranks among the more strenuous but scenically highly rewarding stretches of our hike, as we proceed continuously and steeply uphill on the small hiking trail PR-CV 27, which brings us up to an elevation of around 1200m (4000 ft) with spendid views of the surrounding countryside.

Following the peak of the RECINGLE mountain in the Sierra de Mariola, we gradually begin to descend again. Here the trail ends and connects to a dirt road, making the descent to Agres a lot easier and faster, but also somewhat less scenic. Still great views beckon of Alicante Province, including Agres below and ALCOY in the further distance. The green hiking route of PR-CV 27 then connects to a paved road and the yellow hiking route PR-CV 104, which then leads us back into Agres and to our original point of departure near Agres Convent. Upon completion of our 3 hour hike, numerous bars & restaurants invite us for a drink, snack or meal offering us a glimpse of true Spanish country living in a small community in Alicante Province. Time permitting, we then head back to the coast towards Benidorm or Alicante to soak our sore muscles in the cool waters of the Mediterranean Sea.

Delights in the Desert: China Ranch & Tecopa Hot Springs

2010-08-24T23:58:00.001-07:00

When last spring the LA times published an article in its travel section on the Mojave Desert, one of our all-time favorite Treasures-off-the-beaten-track destinations, we became a bit uneasy, fearing it could spoil its status as a well-kept secret. The article, published on-line also at http://articles.latimes.com/2010/mar/14/travel/la-tr-tecopa-20100314, even covers some of our favorite destinations, China Ranch and Tecopa Hot Springs, a mere 75 minute drive from Las Vegas. Fortunately, our fears never materialized and these gems of the Mojave Desert remain untouched by crowds and perfect spots to escape civilization for a day or two. They have changed over the years, however, but the wide open desert landscape near the California-Nevada border still remains as spectacular as ever.

We first discovered Tecopa Hot Springs over a decade ago - and back then, it was managed by Inyo County California, free-of-charge and open 24hours. What a true delight it was to escape the nightlife and neon lights of Las Vegas at 1 or 2 AM to drive to Tecopa and soak in the thermal springs until dawn. The place attracted a vast variety of interesting visitors, including locals from nearby Pahrump, snow-birds and trailer occupants alike. Yet few came from as far as Southern California or Las Vegas to visit. Then things changed when management of the pools was taken over by a private company, first $5 now $7 were charged per person per visit, and opening hours were restricted until 9PM. The layout and cleanliness of the pools has hardly changed since the early days, but they still remain a delightful spa experience in the middle of the Mojave Preserve.

We usually make a full day of it, escaping the suburban sprawl of Las Vegas early in the day, to head on Hwy 160, Blue Diamond Road, southwest into the Spring Mountains. We cross over the mountain range to descend into the Pahrump Valley, "over the hump to Pahrump" as the locals call it, with splendid views of Mt. Charleston and the Spring Mountain National Preserve nearby. About 20 miles outside of Pahrump, we take a left turn to join the "Old Spanish Trail Hwy" to take us into the empty depths of the Mojave Desert. This road connects Hwy 160 to Hwy 127 which runs from Baker, California up towards Death Valley. There is hardly any traffic, except for an occasional camper van or trailer, as the highway first follows a neverending straight line, then veers its way into the mountains with spectacular views of the surrounding desert landscape, then drops back into the Tecopa Valley, where it connects to Hwy 127.

Shortly before reaching Tecopa, an almost deserted desert outpost that would be truly uninhabited if it were not for the thermal springs, we notice a left turn onto FURNACE CREEK ROAD, follow it for about a mile and then turn right at the sign reading "CHINA RANCH", a true hidden surprise in the arid desert. As we proceed on a narrow, uneven road into the mountains, soon the view opens up to a desert mirage, a true oasis filled with date palm trees. China Ranch, a date palm farm hidden in the desert rocks, remains a well-kept secret to locals and visitors alike, offering a charming café with terrace, shop and numerous hiking trails around the date farm premises. We learn lots about the desert flora and fauna here and escape into the remote corners of this unique desert oasis.

Following our desert hike and a taste of date palm bread and coffee, we drive on to Tecopa to truly immerse ourselves in the soft silky thermal waters of its spring. With separate pool areas for men and women, and two differently tempered pools, we bask in the delights of the healthy spring waters and find it hard to stay awake for the 1.5 hour drive back to Las Vegas. Relaxed, content and renewed, we only truly wake up again, as we drive down from Spring Mountain towards the Las Vegas Valley. What seemed like dawn on the horizon before, an aurora with shining lights in midst of the desert night, turned out to be the brilliant Las Vegas skyline. The Stratosphere Tower and the neon beam from the Luxor Hotel & Casino along with all the landmarks of the Las Vegas strip, lay like miniature sights in front of us, as we drive from our desert bliss back into post-modern civilization, culmination of a highlight day in the middle of the Mojave Desert.

Exploring Cyprus III: Troodos Mountains & Limassol

2010-08-19T03:59:00.000-07:00

As the third largest island in the Mediterranean, Cyprus offers visitors great diversity in both its scenery and climate. So when the scorching summer heat becomes too unbearable along the coast, and the pool-beach routine turns too monotonous, the island's interior beckons and makes for a great escape away from the crowds and the heat. The Troodos mountain range ranks among the island's most magnificent and as such marks a perfect Treasures-off-the-beaten-track destination for visitors. Again, a rental car is the most convenient way to explore the mountains, leaving the Larnaca-Nikosia motorway just South of STROVOLOS and taking Highway B9 towards Troodos. Soon upon leaving the Southern outskirts of Nicosia, we begin straddling the border to Northern Cyprus and then the scenery gradually changes, as the highway first turns south and gradually meanders uphill. Shrubs and flowers abound, soon giving way to pine trees, increasing in size and lushness with every turn.

Our base for exploring the spectacular Troodos range is the resort community of KAKOPETRIA. With a permanent population of only 1500, it easily doubles in size during tourist peak season, as many head here to seek refuge from the heat along the coast. Here at the confluence of 2 small streams, the KLARIOS river is born, which then passes through the Solea Valley to empty out into the Morphou bay. Near the river, numerous cafes, restaurants and shops beckon in the village center. Kakopetria is thus a great base to buy supplies for longer excursions, hikes and climing expeditions throughout the Troodos range. Heading further Southwest, we soon reach the highest peaks of Troodos near Olympos. Here we find many scenically breathtaking hiking trails as well as winter skiing facilities. Also, the drive uphill rewards us with spectacular views of the entire South Coast of Cyprus including the panorama of Limassol in the far distance. Throughout the Troodos range, we repeatedly come across beautiful Byzantine churches and monasteries, including STAVROS, ASINOU and PEDHOULAS, that form part of the UNESCO World Heritage in Cyprus.

Inspired by the great views of the South Coast, we then begin our descent towards Limassol, Cyprus' second largest city and to many, its most beautiful. Along the way, we pass several attractive communities such as AGROS and LOUVARAS both featuring a quaint village center and picturesque churches. As the highway gradually veers downhill, the scenery begins to change once again, and pine trees give way to shrubs and flowers, before turning arid and desert-like near the coast. We then settle for a wonderful dinner in downtown Limassol, followed by a digestive stroll along its attractive seaside promenade. Although distinctly urban and mostly frequented by locals, Limassol retains the charm of a resort community and offers us a chance to explore and savor local Cyprus away from the tourist developments further East. It also makes for a great base to explore Cyprus' scenic Southern Coast, from Larnaca about 1 hour East all the way to Paphos on the West Coast.

Exploring Cyprus II: Karpaz Adventures & the North

2010-08-12T04:18:00.000-07:00

Most visitors to Cyprus will stay in the tourist centers in the Greek South - particularly in the area around Agia Napa, where the nicest beaches and "newest infrastructure" may be found. Some also head to Northern Cyprus as part of a package deal vacation, but predominantly stay in the attractive resort and port town of Kyrenia (Girne) in the North. Those that go on their own to explore the North are still quite rare - and it takes some courage and leap of faith, as heading across the "Green Line" into the so-called "Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus" truly is like stepping into a different world. This "country", only recognized as such by Turkey and otherwise still waiting for the diplomatic limbo to be settled, runs lightyears behind the overdeveloped south - and that is good news. For a real taste of Cyprus, the North is by far more authentic and genuine - and the hospitable nature of the Turkish Cypriots is legendary. However, it is a true mystery to most how for so long - and we are talking decades- this "country" has been able to run on moderate amount of tourism and otherwise a mix of gambling and prostitution. Somehow things move forward, but how they do, and what elements of other societies are attracted by this mix, that is a different and truly mysterious matter.

Taking a southern rental car to the North involves considerable risk - as officially it is certainly discouraged. An extra insurance must be purchased at the border, but it only covers Third Party insurance and NOT your own vehicle - add to this, that drivers in Northern Cyprus are even MORE reckless and incompetent than their cousins in the South (accident and roadside fatality statistics in Northern Cyprus are appalling and among the very highest in Europe) - and it becomes a scary and potentially costly undertaking. Fortunately, I never had problems, but did see my blood pressure rise every 10-15 minutes or so, just witnessing how Cypriots around me in the North tend to drive.

Crossing the Green Line in Nicosia is already a highly interesting and culturally enriching endeavour - the Turkish side of Nicosia is just so much quieter, laid back and quainter than its noisy modern neighbor to the South. Strolling around the alleyways and squares and stopping by Mosques or dining at some of the wonderful and comparatively inexpensive restaurants around central Nicosia already sets the stage nicely for the overall stay there. Then the drive to Kyrenia is magnificent, as we descend from the mountains towards to North Coast of Cyprus overlooking the entire coastline and enjoying the panorama of Kyrenia (Girne, in Turkish) ahead of us. The city itself is equally charming due to its spectacular setting and untouched old quarter. Tourists do abound here, but it is all dignified, low-key and very mellow. The vices of Northern Cypriot economic practices can only be seen by small neon signs on the main highways advertising casinos, brothels or both - and by the unusual high number of attractive but poor Anatolian boys running around Girne harbor.

It is highly recommended to leave the tourist area around Kyrenia, however, and to explore a truly remote part of the Island - the fantastic KARPAZ peninsula, jotting out far to the North East - almost reaching Lebanon on the map. The easiest route is via Nicosia and then heading East to Famagusta - the gateway to Karpaz and a town at the very center of the Cypriot Conflict, as it used to be predominantly Greek and many were killed or had to flee South at the height of the 1970s confrontation. Nowadays a sleepy seaside community of about 30 000, it sees some newer development, but is still a true world away from the South. Driving along Famagusta Bay towards Bogaz, the scenery then changes dramatically, as the narrow highway winds further up the peninsula along small forest areas, shrubs, coves and beaches. As the Karpaz peninsula becomes narrower, sea appears on both sides, making for spectacular scenery and a true sense of space.

Once past the small community of Dikarpaz, housing developments become almost non-existent and the true wild Northeast of Cyprus beckons, as views suddently open up over the magnificent Golden Beach. Often subject to strong winds and high surf, this counts among the last few wilderness areas in the Eastern Med and attracts surprisingly few visitors. Except for an occasional rental car, true solitude can be found here, with long walks along the shoreline and optimum sunshine hours, as the long stretch of beach faces mostly South. Here at the very tip of the Karpaz Peninsula, we also find the Karpaz National Park with herds of wild donkeys roaming the cliffs and often blocking the small highway. And at the very tip, the magnificent yet isolated Apostolos Andreas Greek Orthodox Monastery and chapel beckons - a humbling, spriritual and uplifting experience - allowing us to truly find ourselves and our inner center here at one of the very most remote tips of Europe.

Exploring Cyprus I: Beyond the Beaches of Agia Napa

2010-08-05T10:37:00.000-07:00

Most visitors to Cyprus come in search of the same combination of sun, beach and relaxation that pulls tourists to almost every corner of the Mediterranean. Few come in search of deeper cultural encounters and even fewer have a specific interest in Cyprus and its intriguing and complex history. And almost all visitors come as part of a package vacation combining flight, hotel and transportation and thus wind up restricted to their particular resort complex or vacation community. Yet Cyprus has much to offer for those wishing to look beyond tourist clichés and willing to take matters in their own hand by booking hotel accomodation separately from car rentals and flights.

A rental car is highly advisable, however, as it is the only way to properly explore the island, after all, the third largest in the entire Mediterranean. And the culture shock may start for some already, when renting a car and realising that as a former British colony, Cyprus has left-hand traffic. Particularly managing a stick-shift vehicle with the left hand may prove challenging for many a visitor at first. Yet add to the rental car adventure the chaotic driving pattern of the locals - Cyprus has among Europe's highest traffic accident and fatality rate - and the entire experience may turn outright frightening. Nonetheless, once over the initial culture shock regarding distances and driving, visitors will soon get to experience Cyprus at its best and at leisure - capable of exploring true treasures-off-the-beaten-track destinations beyond the reach of package deal tourists. And in the process, it is possible to learn to love and appreciate the island better and seek local treasures and well-kept secrets even in the touristically more developed areas of the island.

Articles on Cyprus for Euroquest SideTracks have long been overdue, and given the vast variety of fantastic destinations and opportunities at cultural immersion, encounter and exchange on the island, contributions on Cyprus will fill several weeks worth of Treasures off the Beaten Track blog posts. For starters, we shall focus on the touristically most developed area in the South, the resort town of Agia Napa and its spectacular beaches. Although the beaches in the South follow the stereotypical pattern of touristic overdevelopment, tasteless resorts and gruesome architectural eyesores, we shall explore the hidden side of the South to show even Agia Napa has remote corners of true local appeal.

Most international carriers fly into Larnaca in the South, which also happens to be a good base for exploring the entire island, as it is within short drives to the capital Nicosia, the beaches in the South around Agia Napa or the highlights further West such as Limassol and Paphos. Far from beautiful, Larnaca has its own charm, however, and spending some time in the inner city or port area may also prove worthwhile for morning coffee or evening entertainment. Particularly Mackenzie Beach offers several nice cafés and restaurants, although the beach area itself is hardly spectacular. For that reason, it is recommended to drive about 45-60 minutes east towards Agia Napa, Southern Cyprus' most popular resort area. Here we find among the island's most beautiful beaches, once we leave the overdeveloped resort quarter behind.

Between Nissi Beach and Agia Napa port area, we find among the nicest stretches of beach - one after another, but all relatively crowded and overdeveloped. It is possible, however, to find a secluded spot among the rocks in between the beach areas, and enjoy the color contrast between the blue sky, blue sea and beige rock formations.
Yet for even more solitude, it is advisable to drive further east of Agia Napa in the direction of Protaras and then turn right upon leaving town shortly before the Cape Greco turnoff and head towards rock formations adjacent to a military shooting range and adjacent farm area.

Here it is possible to enjoy true local Cypriot bliss amongst the rocks with easy access to the water and optimal sun conditions until dusk. It is here that most of the locals may be met also, thus attesting to the fact this is hidden gem and well-kept secret away from the tourist crowds. Protaras is also a far less crowded and more tasteful and dignified community than Agia Napa, equally featuring a stunning beach area and port. Upon nightfall it is then possible to opt for dinner in Agia Napa itself or return the 45 minutes to Larnaca for evening entertainment there. This by far ranks among our favorite itineraries for a more beach-oriented time on Cyprus, an itinerary that combines sun, sea and solitude with possible cultural encounter and exchange.

Admiring Art in Oberschleissheim

2010-07-29T22:13:00.001-07:00

There are few palaces in Europe that can be said to be both architecturally overwhelming and yet totally devoid of visitors. Sites that are of touristic interest automatically attract crowds, while peace and quiet may at best be found in the ordinary and mundane. The Palace of Oberschleissheim just North of Munich is an exception, however. It is one of the finest examples of a Treasure off the Beaten Track destination in Europe, boasting both a splendid exterior and interior, as well as magnificent paintings from the Bavarian State Gallery. Yet there are no crowds in Oberschleissheim and for years I have been wondering why. Many visitors to Munich prefer to focus on cliché activities in the Bavarian capital, such as attending the Oktoberfest or visiting the Hofbräuhaus brewery. If tourists leave downtown Munich, it is usually for a thought-provoking educational visit to the Dachau memorial site nearby. Yet few visitors know that a mere 4-5 miles further East, one of the most magnificent palace complexes in Bavaria can be found, untouched by tourist crowds and a well-kept secret to discover and fall in love with.

Oberschleissheim Palace was a testament to a great ambition, when construction started in 1700/01 on the orders of Prince Elector Max Emanuel. He had high hopes of becoming Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire and had Oberschleissheim built to show the world that he was up to the challenge both in terms of political and economic power. After all, just before construction started, Max Emanuel successfully pushed the Ottoman Turks back to the Balkans as a great ally of Prince Eugene of Savoy in the War against the Turks that ended in 1699. So the original plan was a highly ambitious Bavarian version of Versailles comprising 4 wings, of which only the main wing was ultimately completed. On the premises of Schleissheim, there already existed the "Old Palace" from the 17th century and the pleasure palace of Lustheim in the gardens, also completed by Max Emanuel for his wedding in 1688. Yet the Prince Elector's high hopes were dashed when he lost the War of Spanish Succession and spent a total of 11 years (1704-1715) in exile in Flanders and Paris. He returned a more humble and broken man, and the rest of what can be seen today was completed by his court architect Joseph Effner by 1719. For that reason, Oberschleissheim is a highly intriguing architectural testimony to Max Emanuel's political ambitions and tragic trajectory.

The exterior of the New Palace Oberschleissheim clearly reflects the 15 year delay in construction, with the center part of the main wing designed originally by Henrico Zuccalli in Italian Villa Style 1701-1704 and the remaining parts of the main wing completed under Joseph Effner after 1719, who himself was inspired by the French court following Max Emanuel's long stay in exile there. The true surprise to visitors, however, may be seen in the interior of the Palace - as some of the Baroque era's leading Bavarian architects, including Johann Baptist Zimmermann and Cosmas Damian Asam contributed to the splendid ceilings and lavish ornate decoration inside.
To the trained eye, much evidence to the victory over the Turks may be found as well, including references to turbans, half moons and other Turkish-themed designs.
Paintings equally abound in the interior with particular splendor to be found on the upper floor of the main wing, where a collection of the Bavarian State Gallery may be admired in the palace rooms, including rare examples of Dutch Masters paintings, such as Anthony van Dyck and Peter Paul Rubens. No other place in Europe offers such peaceful conditions to admire art directly on a personal 1-to-1 level. True bonding with the artwork is thus still possible, making a visit here a truly enriching, delightful artistic experience.

In the center of the main wing upstairs, we find the "Large Gallery", vastly reminiscent of the Hall of Mirrors in Versailles, may be slightly more playful thanks to the unique Grotesque ceiling paintings of Nikolaus Stuber. The five original chandeliers of Bohemian crystal, however, add stately splendor to the hall, which offers great views towards the gardens and the pleasure palace of Lustheim, as well as access to the state apartments of Prince Elector Max Emanuel, including his reception room, private audience room and private bedroom, all decorated with rich tapestries and paintings. The far right side of the main wing upstairs also offers some surprises with the small highly ornate hunting room and a balcony offering views over the splendid Maximilian Chapel.

Returning downstairs we find numerous paintings by Munich court painter Joseph Vivien, pioneer of pastel paintings, depicting Prince Elector Max Emanuel upon his return from exile in 1715. Particularly Vivien's portrait paintings are highly fascinating and unique, as pastel appears much more matte and thus similar to photography compared to the standard oil paintings of the 18th century. In addition, Vivien's pastel paintings are protected by highly costly glass covers and picture frames. As we make our way towards the Palace exit, our eyes once again meet the huge cupula above the main staircase, both unique and unprecedented in palaces of 18th century Europe, and we begin to understand the site's unique place in history, bask in its splendor and baroque beauty, and feel profoundly touched as human beings by the opportunity to experience, process and digest such enormous beauty without the distractions of tourist crowds or other signs of modern civilization.

Enchanting Annecy - ours to discover

2010-07-22T05:55:00.001-07:00

The French Alps have long ceased to be a well-kept secret when it comes to the most spectacular scenery, best skiing and friendliest locals in all of France. Nonetheless it is surprising at how few foreigners travel to the region of Haute Savoie and its capital Annecy. International visitors still tend to focus on Paris and the South of France and few venture into the Alps, unless it is for skiing in the Chamonix, Mt. Blanc area. Even nearby Geneva, one of my least favorite cities in all of Europe, tends to attract more of an international crowd because of the United Nations.

Don't get me wrong, visitors DO flock to Annecy and it is highly touristic, but 85% of them are French - so the city and nearby lake cater predominantly to the domestic market. In addition, the town of Annecy has a highly dynamic local infrastructure both as a busy market town, manufacturing center and gateway to the French Alps.
What makes Annecy truly outstanding, however, is its scenic location in the Alps, on the shores of Lac d'Annecy and on the banks of the THIOU river - along with its magnificent architecture and well-preserved Old Town. As the center of the Counter-Reformation, the city in addition boasts a high number of beautiful catholic churches attesting to its reputation as the "Rome of the Savoie". With a population of 130 000, Annecy is also a highly diverse and multi-faceted urban area featuring quaint quiet corners with small-town feel and in other parts, modern shopping malls or busy highways and even less tastefully developed industrial districts.

So how to make best use of our time in Annecy? The best advice would be to come during a market day, including Sundays, when vendors from all over flock to the medieval pedestrianized inner city to set up base and sell their local produce including wine, cheese, fruit, vegetables and many unique regional specialties. While almost following cliche impressions of how visitors from abroad may view France, the entire set-up is quintessentially French, authentic and thus culturally enriching, with market vendors shouting out to advertise their merchandise and Annecy residents patiently standing in long lines for their baguettes at the local bakery. Unique, colorful, authentic and picturesque motifs beckon at every turn as crowds slowly push forward through the narrow cobble stone pedestrian area of Old Town Annecy in the direction of the landmark monument of the town, the PALACE OF THE ISLE - Palais de l'Ille.

Among the most photographed momunents in all of France, the Palace of the Isle from the 12th century has seen many a use over the centuries, including local hospital, jail and town hall. It sits quaintly on a small island surrounded by two branches of the Thiou river in relative proximity to the lakefront of Lake Annecy.
So following the overcrowded market area in the pedestrian zone, nothing better to do than venture along the THIOU on the extensive river walks - heading inland for a good 1-2 kilometers along carefully manicured park areas and terraces - and then back in the direction of Lake Annecy as far as the Boat Pier, where regular Lake Cruises depart from. A highly recommended activity for a sunny afternoon, a cruise on Lac d'Annecy is unique and scenically magnificent, as there are few lakes in the Alps with such pristine water and steep 7000 feet high mountain ranges within such close proximity to the lakefront.

Following our visit to the weekly market in Old Town, a stroll on the Thiou river front and a lake cruise on Lac d'Annecy, we then embark on the "secret Annecy" walking tour suggested by the local tourist authority, including various churches such as St. Maurice and the Cathedral of St. Pierre, numerous inner courtyards nearby and small hidden side alley linking these churches to the main pedestrian zone, RUE CARNOT, leading as far north as the city's modern shopping mall and SNCF train station.

No better way to wind up our enchanting time in Annecy than to sit by the river front at a nice sidewalk cafe or restaurant enjoying a good glass of local wine and fresh catch from the lake. And if you overnight in Annecy, by far the most spectacular day of the year is the local summer solstice celebration throughout France, FETE DE LA LUMIERE with huge music performances, live outdoor acts and dancing all over the city and the lake front. Given all its beauty, charm and ambience, Annecy truly marks the best of what France can be!

Witches and Freemasons in Beautiful Bamberg

2010-07-14T23:55:00.001-07:00

Bamberg in the region of Frankonia in Northern Bavaria is a town full of surprises. Not only architecturally stunning, it also boasts a highly interesting historical legacy and fascinating thematic facets in virtually every corner of its Old Town. Surprisingly, however, most visitors to Bavaria focus on the capital Munich and the Bavarian Alps in the South. Few venture this far north, and if they come to Frankonia, most tourists flock to Rothenburg ob der Tauber, grossly overpopularized by Rick Steves and other travel writers. Bamberg only gets a few river cruise guests sampling the town on a stop-over, but deserves so much more time in its own right. For that reason, this bustling university town of 80 000 makes a perfect Treasures off the Beaten Track destination for us to discover, explore and fall in love with.

So what is so unique about Bamberg? First of all, its scenic location and architecture. Untouched by the ravages of World War II, this town on the quaint Regnitz river boasts a beautiful Old Town and by far Bavaria's most stunning Old Town Hall, originally Gothic from the 15th century but later repainted in stunning baroque design, and located on an island surrounded by two tributaries of the main river. In fact, water is everywhere and Bamberg even features an area of town aptly named LITTLE VENICE with old fishermen houses from the 18th century by the river front and even gondolas taking guests for a ride. Architecturally the city features fine examples of romanesque, gothic, renaissance and baroque styles both in residential houses, palaces and churches. By far the most stunning example of an architectural masterpiece is Bamberg's late romanesque St.Peter and Paul Cathedral with its 4 spires, giving the town the nickname FRANCONIAN ROME and UNESCO World Heritage status since 1993. Inside the cathedral we find the mysterious sculpture of the BAMBERG RIDER, of which no one to this day knows its precise origin, although the most likely hypothesis is that it may represent King Szent Istvan of Hungary.

Right across from the DOM we find Bamberg's New Residence, seat of the Prince Bishops until 1802, with an inner courtyard boasting one of the most beautifully landscaped rose gardens in Europe and offering grand vistas over the entire Old Town. In the same courtyard, a quaint cafe invites us to stop for a coffee and enjoy the peace and quiet along with the magnificent sight of the roses. Yet many further venues in town equally draw our attention for a drink or meal - notably the local SCHLENKERLA brewery specializing in Bamberger Rauchbier - the city's world famous Smoked Beer. As we descend from the Cathedral back into the Old Town along a steep staircase, we find several restaurants, beer halls and gardens serving the popular brew. By far our favorite and most scenic hangout, however, is the Italian gelato cafe BASSANESE on the Upper Bridge right by the Old Town Hall - a perfect spot for people watching and enjoying an espresso or gelato after a long walk around town.

Thematically, Bamberg is equally intriguing, as no other city in Europe offers such a variety of unique trajectories, including its legacy of freemasonry dating back to the 19th century and spreading from here and nearby Bayreuth as far as North America. In addition, Bamberg has a long history of superstition regarding magicians and witchcraft with up to 300 victims that were burnt between 1421 and 1632 as witches or magicians, including a former Lord Mayor. There is even a historic jail called the DRUDENHAUS, where alleged witches and magicians were held captive. Equally intriguing is the city's role as a former independent Diocese in being the second country in the world to recognize U.S. American independence in the 18th century and establishing an American Embassy here. Finally, Bamberg's House of the BABENSBERG was the first to rule Austria for 250 years before the Habsburgs took over in 1276. It is thus not surprising that over 7000 foreign nationals reside here - in view of the city's fascinating history, touch of individuality and spectacular architectural heritage. Bamberg is certainly different - there must be something in the Smoked Beer here!

3500 Historic Buildings - no Tourists - Görlitz!

2010-07-08T13:44:00.000-07:00

Saxony is not too high on the list of international visitors to Germany - most would rather focus on Bavaria, the Rhine region and Berlin. And the majority of visitors that DO venture as far as Saxony usually stay in the capital Dresden - and 90% during stopovers between Berlin and Prague. Yet Saxony is a spectacular destination in its own right - boasting a legacy of centuries of culture and the arts under the WETTIN dynasty, spectacular scenery along the Elbe River and in the mountains to its south, as well as beautiful cities untouched by war, neglected under communism and restored since the Fall of the Wall 20 years ago. Among these underrated yet beautiful cities, none stands out more than Görlitz - city of 60 000 on the NEISSE river, divided since 1945 into a German and Polish part and boasting 3500 historic monuments of all architectural styles. For that reason, Görlitz counts as a Treasure off the Beaten Track destination par excellence - there are few places in the world that can offer so many restored historic monuments in such a small space and with such few tourists around. Görlitz is thus an uplifting experience for anyone in search for peace, quiet and a fantastic place to discover.

Görlitz feels much bigger than its current population of 60 000, because it was built as a considerably larger town for up to 100 000 inhabitants during its peak a century ago. The so-called GRÜNDERZEIT, the period between 1871 and 1900 when France made huge reparation payments to Germany after loosing the Franco-Prussian war, greatly benefited the city and many gorgeous stately mansions were built during this period. Since then, however, population figures have been down, with Görlitz loosing inhabitants during communism due to its unfortunate location in the far eastern part of what used to be East Germany. Since the change of regime, young Görlitzers have equally been leaving in droves due to better work and income prospects further west. According to statistics, this population drain my continue with an expected low population of 48 000 by 2020. Yet tourism may turn the town around - and it truly is only in its infancy with great potentials for Görlitz in the near future on both sides of the Neisse River. The two sides have been reunited since the ALTSTADTBRÜCKE was inaugurated in 2004 - and with Poland joining SCHENGEN inside the European Union, no more customs controls exist either. It has truly again become the EUROPE CITY of Görlitz and Zgorcelec it was declared as in 1998.

The area of Upper Lusetia (Ober Lausitz) and Lower Silesia (Niederschlesien) boasts an interesting tricultural blend of German, Polish and SORB influences, the latter being a slavic minority of 60 000 still present in what nowadays would be the East German Federal States of Brandenburg and Saxony. Called the "city of towers" due to the many remaining city towers from the medieval fortification dismantled a century ago, Görlitz offers a rich blend of culture and architecture of the late gothic, renaissance, baroque and "Gründerzeit" periods. Starting at busy Demiani Square, we head to the central pedestrian square of downtown Görlitz, MARIENPLATZ, to admire the secession era department store of HERTIE, one of the first buildings of its kind in Germany. The square is dominated on the other side by the FAT TOWER (Dicker Turm), giving way to a green avenue with stately merchant homes, Elisabethstrasse. We pass the tower though on the left side to continue up Steinstrasse to reach the OBERMARKT (Upper Market) equally dominated by a tower, Reichenbacher Turm, on one side, and the HOLY TRINITY CHURCH on the other end, marking the gateway to the old historic center.
The church itself, a former monastery, boasts 2 beautiful altars from the renaissance and baroque period, and evokes the charms of 16th century Germany.

We then proceed into the old historic center of Görlitz with a spectacular blend of Renaissance and Baroque merchant homes, passing the quaint small alley "SCHWARZE GASSE" (Black Alley) on the right. The true highlight then awaits us at the end of Brüderstrasse on the so-called UNTERMARKT (Lower Market), where we find the spectacular Renaissance Town Hall of Görlitz and the equally stunning Renaissance Museum of Lower Silesia. On the Untermarkt itself, we find a plethora of richly ornate Renaissance homes with huge HALLS inside, the so-called HALL HOUSES - many of which can be visited. The square of Untermarkt alone is worthy of some time to pause, admire and enjoy the unique blend of architecture, ambience and local flair. Nearby on NEISSSTRASSE we find the unique BIBLICAL HOUSE of the Renaissance period, recently restored and among the most lavishly decorated buildings in the area. We then proceed north on Petersstrasse as far as the late gothic cathedral of Görlitz, Church of St. Peter and Paul, featuring a spectacular sun organ inside.

It would be possible to continue for hours and days to fully discover the 3500 historic monuments of Görlitz, including more city towers, the famous FLÜSTERBOGEN, whispering arch, as well as the Nikolai cemetery. We decide to walk over the recently reopened ALTSTADTBRÜCKE, however, to enjoy a nice relaxing evening meal on the Polish side, in Zgorcelec, with splendid views of the Old Town and the beautiful Neisse River.

A walk around rustic Regensburg, Bavaria

2010-06-30T13:00:00.000-07:00

Most visitors to Germany's popular South Eastern-most State Bavaria will focus on the capital Munich as well as the Royal Castles in the Bavarian Alps. Few tend to venture further afield and even fewer head north of Munich to the area perched between Bavaria and its lesser-known northern neighbor, Frankonia. Here in the OBERPFALZ (Upper Palatinate) we find Regensburg, a university town of 130 000 on the Danube and among the oldest settlements in the region. Ratisboa, as this charming town was known during Roman times, occupies a priviledged scenic position on the Danube as the young river emerges from Swabia to flow through Bavaria southwards to become fully navegable near the tri-river town of Passau. Numerous Roman relics attest to Regensburg ancient history, including the Roman gate PORTA PRAETORIA, making this town considerably older than the capital Munich, the latter only dating back to the 12th century. Unscathed by the ravages of WWII, it is surprising how charming, well-kept and affluent this UNESCO world heritage site appears at first glance and even more surprising that it has not yet been sold wholesale to mass tourism. Admittedly, the city does see its regular influx of visitors, but they tend to be river cruise guests sampling the town during a short stopover here. Yet Regensburg warrants a much closer and more intimate look and invites us to sample its many charms, cobblestoned alleys and unique boutiques and art galleries.

A good point of reference and departure is lively Arnulfplatz, one of the busiest intersections and traffic throughways in town, but also perfect gateway to the Old Town's picturesque pedestrian zone. We stroll down pedestrianized Ludwigstrasse, more beautiful than ever following a recent face lift by local authorities, and head into the center of the Old Town towards HAIDPLATZ, one of the most scenically appealing squares in town. Here we find among other historic buildings, the medieval inn and hotel GOLDENES KREUZ (Golden Cross) dating back to the 13th century and site of many a king and emperor overnighting in town en route further South. Adjacent to the Golden Cross, the prestigious THON-DITTMER PALAIS is a true eye-catcher dominating the square, as it ranks among the nicest and best preserved neo-classical noble palaces in town. Rather than following the main flow of pedestrians towards Rathausplatz, we proceed further ahead to the right and enter a labyrinth of cobblestone alleyways, inner courtyards and shopping arcades leading us past attractive boutiques and local craftshops unique to Regensburg and this part of Bavaria. It is a pleasing testament to the local economy's vibrant and booming middle class, and to local authorities' attempts to support start-ups, prevent franchising of multinational corporations and thus foster the region's local identity.

As we proceed through the narrow and quaint cobblestone lanes of Old Town Regensburg, our view suddenly opens up to the medieval jewel of the city, the gothic masterpiece of St. Peter's Cathedral. Enormous in dimension for a city the size of Regensburg, it impresses with a height of 86 meters, beautiful gothic architecture, ancient stained glass windows, the most famous of which is the St. Peter Window, and impressive high vaulting. As we witness first-hand during a brief visit of St. Peter's 13th century interior, the city's main cathedral is kept in immaculate shape and boasts rich acoustics, which benefits the famous Regensburg Cathedral Sparrows Boys Choir, which regularly rehearses and performs here.

Yet the Gothic Cathedral is not the only architectural masterpiece Regensburg has to offer. As we continue to the right of the Dom's main entrance, we reach about a block further down the 'Monastery of Our Lady', more widely known as the OLD CHAPEL (Alte Kapelle). Dating originally back to the year 875, it underwent major restoration in the 18th century (starting in 1747) and nowadays ranks among one of the finest examples of ROCOCO architecture in Europe, a true delight for the senses. Far less frequented and just as ornate and playful as the famous Wieskirche near Füssen or the Wilten Basilika in Innsbruck, it allows for an intimate and overwhelming personal confrontation with Rococo beauty and its use as a religious art. We then exit through the side chapel and retrace our steps towards the central Old Town, leading to the wide and open NEUPFARRPLATZ, another attractive ensemble of well-preserved Patrician merchant houses with a spectacular view of St Peter's Cathedral in the background.

We then decide to head towards the Danube and Regensburg's famous STONY BRIDGE dating back to the 12th century and in 1189 the site where Emperor Frederic Barbarossa embarked on the 3rd Crusade. Here we find what may be Bavaria's most famous sausage stand - the HISTORISCHE WURSTLKUCHL - right in an area of the Danube embankment previously subject to frequent floods. Nowadays more regulated by levys and flood gates, it attracts locals and visitors alike with its tasty servings of Bavaria's famous Weisswurst (White Sausage). Following our hearty lunch here we return to the central Old town to admire Regensburg splendid 14th centuryTown Hall at Rathausplatz and decide to settle for a refreshing beer in one of the Old Town's many taverns and beer halls in the shadow of the mighty and magnificient St. Peter's Cathedral.

A Stroll through Paradise: Moravia's Garden of Europe

2010-06-24T09:07:00.001-07:00

Over two decades since the fall of Communism, many attractions located just behind the former Iron Curtain remain secrets to most foreign visitors. Tourists tend to focus on over-publicized urban highlights such as Prague, Krakow or Budapest, but apart from a few day trip destinations away from those urban centers, few tend to venture further afield to discover the true gems in the countryside. Among such gems, the LEDNICE VALTICE cultural landscape, a UNESCO world-heritage site, stands out as one of the most spectacular, scenic yet underrated destinations.

Located conveniently on the Vienna to Prague route, the GARDEN OF EUROPE, as this area is known, can be found just a mere hour north of Vienna in the direction of BRNO, capital of Moravia. It is important to follow the signs for Brno rather than for Prague upon leaving Vienna, as the latter route via Telc is far less scenic and more congested. The Brno route, by contrast, is just as fast and can also be combined with a visit to Slovakia's capital BRATISLAVA nearby. The route is far more scenic too, and has recently been improved by road widening and motorway construction. The drive to the Czech border itself is highly picturesque with rolling hills, vineyards and fields opening up in what is known as DEUTSCH-MÄHREN, or German-Speaking Moravia. We pass the small community of Wilfersdorf with a small water chateau to the left, a taste of highlights to come, as this was the original power base of the LIECHTENSTEIN family in the 17th century, whose ample later estates we shall admire in Moravia.

We pass the Czech border at the scenically splendid town of MIKULOV, center of Moravian wine making and the Renaissance Castle which can be seen from miles away in the distance. Following a stop here, we take a right turn towards the Lednice Valtice areal, our off-the-beaten-track destination. A mere 5 miles ahead, we already see VALTICE chateau, the winter residence of the Liechtenstein family. The Liechtensteins were close associates of the Habsburgs during the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy and held huge estates all around the former empire, particularly here in Southern Moravia. Kicked out following WWII in the wake of the infamous BENES DOCTRINE, they since settled in the small fortress in Vaduz, Liechtenstein, between Switzerland and Austria. We can only imagine what a loss it must have been to give up all those riches in Moravia to settle for Vaduz.

Valtice itself, also a center of Moravian wine, is a quaint small town with a Baroque market square where the church of the Liechtensteins can be admired, adorned above the altar by a copy and original painting of Rubens. The castle itself is still in need of further private investments but has been partly renovated since the change of system. Built originally in the 12th century, it has since been redesigned in baroque style and features a magnificent frontal staircase perfect for scenic photographs. Driving a mere 3 miles further north, we come through the heart of the GARDEN OF EUROPE, a fine example of a cultural landscape unique in Europe and the world. The Liechtensteins decided to reroute the THAYA river and thus created a wonderful world of small artificial lakes, islands and trails. They erected playful ornate decorative buildings throughout the area, many of which can only be reached by foot or bicycle. Driving to Lednice, for instance, we see a gorgeous hunting chateau to our left by the lake shore.

The unmistakeable highlight itself, however, is LEDNICE palace itself, rebuilt in the 19th century in Neo-classical style, it looks like a Tudor-style castle transplanted to Southern Moravia. Once the summer residence of the Liechtensteins, it boasts one of the largest steel-and-glass greenhouses from the 19th century and a huge park areal, neatly landscaped and ornately decorated with buildings, such as the famous MINARET tower. None of such buildings have much religious significance, but were rather used as vehicles for artistic expression during the reign of the Liechtensteins. We stroll past the front side of LEDNICE chateau and witness the impressive greenhouse with lush vegetation inside. During spring and summer the gardens are particularly impressive, as they are tended by numerous gardeners including students from the Gardening and Agricultural Faculty of the University of BRNO.

Throughout the summer months, when many Czech and Slovak families come to visit the area as an ideal family holiday destination, BIRDS OF PREY are often on display throughout the park grounds. We proceed past the greenhouse and down towards the park area itself with islands and trails, admiring the MINARET tower from the 19th century in the distance before returning to the front side via the Aquarium, also open mostly in the summer months. Leaving the area to head further afield towards other parts of Moravia and Bohemia, we are left with the insight that a scenic slice of PARADISE may often be closer than we think, and often involves stepping outside our comfort zone of BUSINESS AS USUAL to discover all that really matters.

Beyond Benidorm: Albir & Racó del Conill

2010-06-16T04:27:00.001-07:00

For decades now, the name Benidorm has been associated with mass tourism of the worst proportions. Drawn up and overdeveloped as early as the Franco years as one of the main tourist resorts of Spain, its skyline nowadays resembles those of an Asian metropolis and its beaches tend to overflow with package deal tourists from all over Europe. However, the COSTA BLANCA, as overdeveloped as it may have become between Alicante and Denia, still retains its charms and ranks among the most spectacular coastline on the Spanish Mediterranean. There ARE still quiet places to be found for solitude and peace away from the crowds. Two local getaways stand out among our favorites, i.e., the peninsula near ALBIR with its famous lighthouse, as well as the small remote beach of RACÓ DEL CONILL (Rabbit Corner) near Villa Joyosa.

It may be a good idea to leave early to avoid the sizzling summer heat and potential crowds, although the peninsula of ALBIR hardly attracts too much of a following. It is located just beside the communities of ALBIR and ALFAS DEL PI, both renown expatriote settlements along the Costa Blanca. The peninsula itself is an extension of the SIERRA HELADA mountain range just behind those two communities and juts out towards the Meditterranean with spectacular arid rock formations, giving way to the blue sea and sky. For that reason, the 3.5 km walk from the parking lot to the FARO DEL ALBIR lighthouse ranks among the scenically most appealing walks along the Costa Blanca. It is also among the easiest for both young and old, as the ascent is gradual and the constant breeze from the Mediterranean helps ease fatigue and overheating.

As we depart the parking lot just above Albir to begin our 1.5h walk towards the lighthouse, views initially open up towards the beach of Albir and nearby Calpe, all well-developed Costa Blanca resort towns but featuring low-rise buildings and thus less overbearing than Benidorm. The beach boasts light golden sand, and the Mediterranean in this area tends to appear with a deep almost surreal blue. A tunnel connects the initial trail to its continuation towards the lighthouse around the 1 km marker, and great views then open up further down the coast towards Javea and the Parc del Penyal di Fach. Sailboats and a fish breeding area mark this among the most scenic stretches of the Costa Blanca coastline. We then reach the abandoned lighthouse with spectacular views towards the open sea. Just before the lighthouse itself, a small trail leads up to an observation spot with even greater vistas of the sea, and small inofficial and potentially dangerous trail beam off for those more daring hikers wishing to proceed further.

Following our return toward the parking lot above ALBIR town, nice picnic grounds covered with roofs invite for a respite in the shade following the sun and wind, and we then feel the desire to cool off in the water on a nearby beach. Here the Treasures off the Beaten Track mission becomes a bit more difficult, as most beaches in and around Benidorm are notoriously crowded. There IS however, a small alternative beach area to the North of Benidorm near Villa Joyosa that still allows for peace and quiet in an alternative setting and with spectacular scenery. It is not a large beach but usually attracts only few visitors and thus allows for a beautiful scenic swim and beach experience with peace and quiet in what is otherwise an overdeveloped environment.

For the RACÒ DEL CONILL, Rabbit Corner this area is known as, it may be recommended to bring goggles along also, as the water is usually pristinely clear and many interesting species of fish may be observed, provided the sea is calm. The combination of ALBIR with its lighthouse and the RACO DEL CONILL beach therefore marks the perfect mix of light hiking with great views and refreshing quiet beach experience as a much welcome alternative break from the mass tourism of Benidorm nearby.

Beyond the Beach III: Exploring the Santa Cruz neighborhood of Alicante

2010-06-09T15:21:00.000-07:00

Alicante has come a long way in the past decade - evolving from the ugly duckling on the Mediterranean to an attractive metropolis with diverse neighborhoods and modern infrastructure. Traditionally one of the most conflictive areas of town, the CASCO ANTIGUO of Alicante, its historic OLD TOWN, has undergone significant urban renewal in recent years. As we discovered during our nightwalk around Old Town Alicante, from the recently inaugurated Alicante Contemporary Art Museum near Santa Maria Church to the Alicante Water Museum near the ERETA Park ascending to Sta Barbara Castle, the neighborhood is buzzing with new developments, urban renewal as well as culture and arts projects. To help further dismantle Alicante stereotypes of only Sun, Postiguet Beach and the ESPLANADA seaside promenade, we set out to dig further into the small, twisted alleyways of OLD TOWN to discover yet another totally different world: the neighborhood of SANTA CRUZ.

Leaving behind the busy bars on Calle Labradores and Calle Mayor and ascending slightly towards the BENACANTIL mountain, we reach the square PLAZA DEL CARMEN, still within the boundaries of Old Town Alicante. Here we find one of Alicante's oldest cinema, ASTORIA, recently closed, and the elevated park area on top of Plaza del Carmen itself. From here, calle SAN RAFAEL can be seen ascending MONTE BENACANTIL as the gateway to the Santa Cruz neighborhood. This precinct is quite distinct and rooted in its own traditions, including the famous FIESTA DE LAS CRUCES celebrated throughout the Hispanic world every May. A colorful display of crosses is carried through the narrow alleyways of Santa Cruz en route to the small church of ERMITA DE SANTA CRUZ at the very top - also our final destination during our night walk here.

What is to follow is an infinite display of low-level white houses covered with flower pots, scenic, steep and narrow cobble-stone alleys winding uphill with sporadic vistas of CASTILLO SANTA BARBARA, numerous TASCAS inviting for a stop for tapas and cold beer. As we proceed slowly uphill, marvelling at ever-new scenic views of houses, flowers and the castle above, we come across cats and dogs dozing away near their homes during siesta time and tiled signs indicating the way further uphill to the neighborhood's famous church. Intermittently, slow plazas open up with benches overlooking downtown Alicante and its ST. NICHOLAS CATHEDRAL. We thus continue along the narrow alleyways of Calle San Isidoro, Calle San Luis and Calle Santa Lucia until we reach the tastefully ornate and decorated CASITA DE LA SUBIDA A LA HERMITA right before the gates of the Ermita de Santa Cruz church itself, open daily from dawn to dusk. Dating back to the 18th century and dominated at night by a huge cross illuminated in bright red, it looks over the whole neighborhood of the same name.

Once we have taken in the splendid views of central Alicante, the CASTILLO DE SANTA BARBARA with its mighty Spanish flag and whirlwind-like flock of seagulls, we slowly descend again, choosing a slightly alternate route but ending nonetheless back at Plaza del Carmen, from where our explorations began. We then settle for one of the nice pubs along Calle Mayor or for dinner at the Plaza Santa Faz in Old Town right behind the Ayuntamiento, Town Hall, and proceed for a mellow nightcap to the outdoor Cafe Soho just off the Ramblas. So although Alicante has often been dubbed "la ciudad que no pudo ser" ("The city that never was to be" alluding to the fact that it has always played second fiddle to Valencia as the regional capital), for us it truly is the city that rocks - and always will be!

Our Budapest – Updated 2010 Alternative Visitor Guide to the Hungarian Capital

2010-06-02T03:07:00.000-07:00

On behalf of the Hungarian LGBT community WELCOME to Hungary's Capital City.

One of our missions is to provide LGBT visitors with current information on gay life in Hungary and to offer true Magyar hospitality to everyone coming to our city from abroad. As such, our mission is truly committed to diversity and tolerance, bringing Hungary in line with other European nations in their respect for human rights and minorities.

While images of Neo-Nazis throwing eggs at pride marchers may have dominated news media in previous years, we believe such incidents are not representative of Hungarian society as a whole. In fact, Budapest to us is a beacon of hope and tolerance in Central Europe, with far more repressive attitudes towards gays and lesbians looming in societies further East or down the Balkans. While gay life may not be quite the same as in Western Europe and North America, we may assure you that once you understand life the Magyar way, there is no limit to expressing who you are and can be in a tolerant, open and accepting Hungary.

So what exactly IS the Magyar way? Well...just as in the Hungarian language SZIA is hello and HELO can mean goodbye, things work in slightly different ways semantically in Hungary. So although in recent years new exclusively gay and lesbian venues have opened all over the city, there are places that have traditionally always attracted an alternative following, although they have never openly been advertised as such. Take the Turkish baths, for instance, on “men-only” days. While not officially gay, they have for decades attracted a huge following of admirers of men-only nudist culture, the homo-eroticism of which may be tangible even for casual outside observers. And in the traditional Magyar scheme of things, such places may be far more enjoyable and relaxing than the crude meat market cruising rituals at Western-style gay saunas. The same applies to mixed nightclubs and cafes, almost all of which in Budapest are known to be highly tolerant, accepting and easygoing. Thus Hungary is radically different from the gay circuit party scene of Western Europe and North America, which is precisely its greatest charm and attraction.

So what is there to do for LGBT visitors to Hungary's capital city?
Comprehensive listings of alternative venues can be found on several web sites, including
http://budapest.gayguide.net
and the independent travel portal:
http://www.budapest.com/city_guide/gay_budapest.en.html
Whereas Gayguide.net gets updated on a regular basis, the Budapest.com site is not always up-to-date, since it does not predominantly cater to LGBT visitors.

Budapest's official gay and lesbian publication is now called COMPANY and is published monthly in Hungarian only but has a regular welcome article in English dedicated to international visitors. Most listings in the printed edition of COMPANY are current and can also be found on their web page edition at http://companymedia.hu.

Any such lists, however, are only of limited value. As mentioned in the introduction, some of the gayest things to do in Budapest are in places not openly advertised as gay and thus missing in the guides. And places that ARE listed may not be open or busy every night with some catering mostly to tourists and others more to a local scene.

So we would like to present our own take on gay life in Budapest as subjective and incomplete as that may be. As such we thus also cannot be held liable by businesses or potential patrons alike for any information given herein. Nor do we receive benefits or incentives from any of the places we mention. For exact contact information including addresses and phone numbers, please check the COMPANY guide page above.

Summer is one of the nicest times of the year to visit Budapest and enjoy its beauty. Why not start your day with coffee at Cafe Mylord or, if not so sunny and warm, Alter Ego Cafe or Cafe Eklektika? The former has a more touristy crowd daytime but is almost all gay at night and has a nice terrace with views of the Citadel and Gellert Hill. Eklektika, by contrast, is much busier in the evenings catering to a slightly more refined mixed gay-friendly theater-going clientèle. Alter Ego Cafe is a more recent addition to the LGBT coffeehouse scene. Conveniently located in the heart of Pest at Deak Ter, it follows the same design and ambiance principle of its nosier nightclub namesake. And if you happen to be in the main tourist area around Vaci utca, you may want to stop by gay-operated and mixed Amstel River Cafe for a drink and some nice people-watching.

Wellness is high priority in Hungary, and GLBT visitors can indulge in Budapest's spa culture at various venues. Forget the over-publicized Gellert and Szecheny baths and instead focus on the outdoor Palatinus pool on Margaret Island on a warm sunny summer day. Although not publicly "gay", the same-sex sunning terrace and shower facilities could not be gayer or cruisier. The same used to hold true for another outdoor pool in the summer, Csillaghegy, slightly further away and quieter on the Buda side (Metro to Batthyany Ter and HEV to Szentendre, stop Csillaghegy). It used to offer nice same-sex tanning areas on top of “Star Hill“, but last we heard is that it no longer is as popular as authorities had cracked down on “gay“ activities there.

On rainy days, by contrast, the Turkish baths Rudas (TUE women only; MON, WED, THU – half price!-, FRI men only) and Kiraly (TUE THU and SAT men only) beckon. Although neither is publicly "gay", both are hotbeds of homo-eroticism and fine examples of Magyar-style gay culture with Kiraly known to be the more permissive of the two.
Finally, for Western-style gay saunas, there are Szauna69 and Magnum, each catering to a slightly different clientèle. Those are busy on particular nights only (THU, SAT & SUN are relatively popular) and come with the heavy cruising rituals typical of such saunas. Yet they are also among the best gay places in town to just relax at, socialize with friends or enjoy a massage.

After all this wellness some dinner may be in order, and while the above mentioned cafes serve some food items, proper meals are best consumed elsewhere. The only "gay" dining venue would be Club 93 Pizzeria near Blaha, but even there the owners may be gay but the clientèle is at best mixed and gay-friendly. We rather prefer the summer outdoor dining on Raday Utca in the 9th district not far from Kalvin Ter and the Market Hall. Here in this semi-pedestrian street we find a vast array of scrumptious and inexpensive dining options, and although not "gay", most are at least tolerant, diverse eateries with many of them gay-owned, managed or at least served by young, diverse and possibly gay waiters. And the terraces are among the best places for Budapest dining in the summer and are great venues for socializing and people-watching too.

Following dinner and a digestive stroll and nap we are ready to explore Budapest's night life, which is mostly quiet on weekdays and only picks up on weekends. There are about a dozen venues to pick from. We would opt for private parties before heading out to clubs, or a pre-clubbing drink or two at one of the bars like Habroló, Funny Carrot, Capella or at one of the cafes like My Lord, Alter Ego Cafe or closer to the nightclubs, Eklektika or Cafe &. Then around midnight gay nightlife in Budapest centers around Dessewffy utca near Oktogon, where we find both Alter Ego and GLAM. Both are very similar in layout and style, get busy after midnight and feature drag shows as well. Ultimately Alter Ego always seems to pull in more crowds and makes for an entertaining night out with friends old and new.
At the end of the night there is always COXX or the more tourist-oriented Action bar to cater to those who are still in need of new friends - both featuring vast dark cruising areas and dark rooms.

Finally, Budapest also has a string of semi-regular gay-themed parties including Candy, Liberty and the highly popular Brutko party with alternating venues, themes and special events. The latter can thus be really hit-or-miss but provide a nice distraction from the business-as-usual routine of Alter Ego.

Again, we hope our unofficial overview has been of help and on behalf of Budapest's LGBT community wish you a wonderful enriching and entertaining stay in the Land of the Magyars! Welcome!! üdvözöljük!!