A Baja Carnival in La Paz

 

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Think Carnival and most will say Rio de Janeiro. Yet there are numerous other places in the world famous for their Carnival celebrations ranging from Mardi Gras in New Orleans to Carnival in Venice or the fiestas surrounding Carnival in Santa Cruz de Tenerife on the Canary Islands. Few may think of Mexico as a carnival destination, even less so since the rise of one-sided media reporting on the ongoing drug war and its potential dangers for visitors. Within Mexico, the carnival in Veracruz is probably the best known and most ebullient, but there are other well-known Carnival hotspots in Mexico including Mazatlán, Sinaloa and La Paz, the capital of Baja California Sur. 

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Located thousands of miles away from the more populous areas of Mexico on the main land, the South of the Baja Peninsula is truly a far cry away from many of the country´s ongoing woes, including the power struggles between drug cartels near the U.S. border. Southern Baja´s capital city, La PAZ,  is a charming, picturesque community of about 200 ooo inhabitants and captures the peace & quiet of this remote part of the world - except may be during the Carnival season. Then uncountable stands are erected alongside La Paz´famous MALECÓN (seaside promenade) with a main stage in the very center at the crossing of the Malecón and La Paz´ main street "16 de Septiembre". The stage functions as a focal point during the city´s carnival celebrations featuring the nightly appearance of well-known Mexican celebrities throughout the festive period. The carnival frenzy then extends along both sides of the Malecón for up to 5 blocks and later at night continues in La Paz´numerous clubs including the Jungle and the alternative The Dome.

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Visitors will be thrilled to find out that La Paz boasts great hotels at a reasonable price located close to the heart of carnival madness. Among the best values in town we find the BAJA SOUTH hotel (550 MXP for a double room) conveniently located right behind the bus terminal and 1 block away from the Malecón. Here nights won´t be too quiet however, with all the carnival music and partying nearby. A quieter alternative would be the Hotel Del Ángel on C. Revolución (400/600 MXP per room) within immediate surroundings to the city´s attractive Cathedral CATEDRAL dE LA PAZ & the Centro de Artes y Cultura of Baja California Sur. Here we also find our favorite breakfast, brunch and lunch hangout, CAFÉ CORAZÓN serving scrumtious Mexican specialties at very competitive prices. Our other perennial favorite, LA BOHèME, located on C. Esquerro downtown, boasts a magnificent inner courtyard with lush vegetation. Run for decades by a string of French owners, La Bohème also serves esquisite food but at much more elevated prices. The atmosphere alone, however, is worth a visit. Lovers of seafood will equally be delighted by La Paz´ vast selection of sea food eateries, the most famous of which, EL BISMARKCITO is located right along the Malecón. A less expensive and more local alternative is Mc Fish on C. Morelos between Revolución & Madero featuring delicious seafood dishes - their seafood soup and shrimp burgers are among the best in town. Also see "Eat like a Paceño", http://visit-lapaz.com/?p=335, for further recommendations.

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Yet La Paz also boasts breathtaking surroundings. Heading towards the port of PICHILINGUE, we pass several newly developed beach resorts, including the prestigious golf course of the recently built COSTABAJA property. Further afield, a true highlight awaits with the bay of BALANDRA beach, among the most picturesque and pristine in the entire Baja pensinsula. Yet caution is advised when bathing at this beach as the Bay is full of shellfish and their sting may be quite painful and potentially fatal. Finally La Paz also serves as the ideal gateway for destinations further afield such as Constitución and Loreto towards the North or the East Cape of Baja towards the South. An ideal destination to retire or just to get away from civilization for a while, Southern Baja´s capital truly enchants visitors with its scenic beauty and genuine local Baja culture and hospitality.

Lava Land Sun, Solitude & Silence

When talking about volcano islands, most may think of Iceland or Hawaii - many may not know that Lanzarote, one of the Canary Islands in the Atlantic off the coast of Africa, has much more to offer than package deal resorts. While beaches may be more bountiful on other islands of the Canaries, Lanzarote boasts the most unique volcanic landscape and the most harmonious architecture. It was local artist´s César Manrique´s legacy that public building ordinances were changed to require all houses on the island to remain white and low-rise, which with few exceptions has been carefully observed since his passing. While most visitors to Lanzarote tend to stay in the main tourist resort of Puerto del Carmen, the island has much more remote and unspoilt scenery to offer in its Northern half. Here we find the high mountain range of the RISCO DE FAMARA with spectacular views over the Atlantic ocean and the nearby island of LA GRACIOSA. It is here, in the village of YÉ, that we start our hiking exploration of sun, solitude and silence in these lands of lava and white homes.

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It is advisable to start the day early - preferably by 9am to maximize the amounts of time for hiking and rest. Since the difference in altitude to be covered ranges around 800 meters, ample time should be allocated particularly for the return ascent of the Famara range, the most strenuous part of our hiking adventure. As we leave behind the village of Yé en route to Guinate, a turn-off on the right leads on a narrow paved road towards the Mirador del Río. As we proceed on that small road for about 300 yards, a cobble-stone driveway and parking lot appear to our left. It is well advised to take along all personal belongings from the car, as car break-ins are not uncommon here. A clearly marked path leads from here towards a panoramic lookout point, from where splendid views may be enjoyed over the Famara Range, Atlantic Ocean and the island of La Graciosa. Yet this marks also the beginning of a small, narrow hiking trail, which cuts into the lava land and curves down towards the coastline. Down below in the valley underneath the Famara Range, the path then splits into various directions, including a small trail that leads towards the right and on to the unspoilt shores of the PLAYA DEL RISCO, our chosen destination.

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Caution is advised during both the descent and ascent of the Famara Range, as the surface of these volcanic soils may be highly slippery. Regular curves guarantee frequent possibilities to pause and rest joints and legs while enjoying magnificent vistas of the surrounding coastline. We also pass several power line poles that bring electricity to these remote corners of Lanzarote and on to La Graciosa, the capital village of which, CALETA DEL SEBO, may be seen shining below with is marvellously white-washed houses. The descent takes about 40 minutes depending on speed and frequency of breaks until we reach the turn-off point, from which several trails radiate left, right or immediately to the coast. We turn right and continue through semi-arid vegetation featuring shrubs and bushes until we pass over a range of rocks to then enjoy the full view of one of Lanzarote´s most unique, isolated and unspoilt beaches, the PLAYA DEL RISCO. 

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For a huge beach of its extension and size, it is virtually deserted, even more so if our hiking adventure is undertaken earlier in the day. On very rare occasions, visitors may be seen arriving by water taxi, which may be an option for physically challenged visitors that may not be able to do the hike and yet would like to see the beauty of this remote beach. For the water taxi option, visitors would first take the ship from the Northernmost community of ORZOLA to the island of La Graciosa. From there, water taxis may be taken from the island´s capital Caleta del Sebo over towards the PLAYA DEL RISCO. This choice may also come in handy for those wishing to camp on the beach overnight in the summer and would not like to carry all camping supplies along the slippery strenuous hiking route.

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 Subject to tidal moves, the sands of PLAYA DEL RISCO appear and vanish with the tides, often offering visitors uniquely picturesque opportunities for photography, meditation and self-awareness. For that reason, above hike may best be undertaken quite early in the day to maximize the downtime along the PLAYA DEL RISCO. We also suggest a return departure no later than 330/4pm to allocate ample time for what is the most strenuous part of our hiking day, the return ascent to the village of YÉ. It is also possible to stroll along the immediate coastline to discover other remote inlays, bays and small beaches unspoilt by tourism and to join one of the other side trails returning to the turn-off point culminating in the main path leading back up the Famara Range. Frequent pauses are strongly advised, as even physically able individuals may have a challenging time with the return ascent covering an altitude difference of 800 meters. As we return to the balcony overlooking the ocean and La Graciosa, about 1-1.5 hours have passed since our departure from the beach and we then return to civilization physically tired from the hike but mentally and spiritually renewed by the magnificent experience of visiting one of the most remote and scenic corners of Lanzarote´s Lava Lands.