Canarian Coastlines of the North: Puerto de las Nieves & beyond

 

For visitors to Gran Canaria who prefer local alternatives to the mass-tourist resorts around Maspalomas in the South, the capital city of Las Palmas constitutes a perfect gateway for exploring treasures off the beaten track in the island´s center and north. From here we have previously set out to discover the Canarian Rum city of ARUCAS as well as the famous Sunday market of VEGA DE SAN MATEO. This time, we will continue to the far North of Gran canaria to explore its magnificent coastline featuring several prominent coastal communities including PUERTO DE LAS NIEVES and SARDINA.

What used to be rather poor fishing villages in the past have lately seen a significant influx of investment and visitors both local and foreign alike. Puerto de las Nieves, part of the city of AGAETE, in particular has undergone a true renaissance in recent years and nowadays boasts a pristine local Canarian ambience along its seaside promenade "PASEO DE LOS POETAS". Here we find colorful fishermen houses perched together on narrow cliffs, a small harbor full of small colorful fishing vessels, seafood restaurants, craft shops and galleries. In the distance on a clear day we may see the snow-capped peak of Mount Teide on Tenerife, which gave the name Puerto de las Nieves to the community.

Around the main square we find a small chapel featuring the treasure of a 16th century triptych, a Flemish piece of artwork in three parts by Joos Van Cleve depicting the Virgin and Child and carried to AGAETE Parish Church during the annual Fiesta de la Rama. Just past the attractive dark-sanded beach area, we find the DEDO DE DIOS (God´s Finger), a 30 meter pinnacle of basalt rock in front of the cliffs topped by the pine trees of PINAR DE TAMADABA. While the pinnacle was damaged during a recent tropical storm in 2005, it still is a remarkable sight and great photo stop.

After enjoying some tasty local CALDO DE PESCADO fish soup in one of the excellent eateries around the port, we continue our exploration of GRan canaria´s North towards the Lighthouse of SARDINA and the community of the same name. Sardina still ranks among the best kept secrets of the island´s fishing villages. An ideal destination for those seeking great local seafood dishes along with peace and tranquility, Sardina is among the most authentic of communities along the coast here. 

Leaving Galdar along local highway GC-202, we pass miles of white tents under which 6 types of bananas are cultivated before reaching Sardina itself. Directly by the port we find the local delicatessen restaurant LA FRAGATA specializing in seafood at reasonable prices. As of late, the coastal promenade of SARDINA has seen an influx of DIVERS on weekends who have discovered the waters around SARDINA as ideal diving territory. While locals are not too happy about the new arrivals, who tend to spend most of their time in the water rather than helping the local economy, the local attraction of diving in and around SARDINA has added publicity to this picturesque fishing village. Exploring the Northern Coastline of Gran Canaria allows visitors to savor a true piece of local Canarian living and culture - a far cry away from the sand beach and sea routine of package-deal tourists in the South.

Market Day in Vega de San Mateo, GC

In yet another "Treasures off the Beaten Track" contribution on Gran canaria, we shall continue to draw attention away from the mass tourist resorts of the South and offer alternative trajectories to visitors of Gran canaria. As on previous occasions, we shall focus on the island´s capital LAS PALMAS as a gateway and outline several itineraries in the North and Center of Gran Canaria that allow a more insider perspective of local culture and traditions. This holds particularly true to venues frequented by locals and visitors alike, where the constructive dialogue between both leads to greater cultural awareness and a better understanding of the Cultural Other - the Sunday Market Day in Vega de San Mateo is a perfect example of just that.

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To this end, it may be a great idea to get up relatively early on a Sunday and combine a visit to the Market in Vega de San Mateo with a hiking excursion around the island's mountainous center. Numerous small highways veer uphill from the coast towards the highest peak of Gran canaria called PICOS DE LAS NIEVES at almost 2000m (or 7000 ft). A good starting point may be the small community of INGENIO not far from the island's airport. From there, a well-paved highway leads towards great panorama viewpoints of Gran Canaria's Eastern coastline and then enters a stunning area of Basalt rocks of volcanic origin as well as of radical change of climate and vegetation. Whereas many parts of Gran Canaria may remain sunny, it can be overcast and hazy here with considerably lower temperatures and lush vegetation. Here we find mostly Canarian pine introduced to these mountains in the 1950s. On a clear sunny day, it is possible to look from Pico de las Nieves all the way over to Tenerife's Mount Teide (3700m), along with La Palma's Roque de los Muchachos (2500m) the only higher peaks in the entire Canarian archipielago. Much of this mountainous area of Gran canaria's center is nowadays part of a military exercise area but a plateau at the top of Picos de las Nieves is open to the public offering stunning views of the surrounding coastline and the adjacent island of Tenerife. Particularly scenic during a short hike around the mountain peak is the nearby ROQUE NUBLO, a stunning monolith standing out as the island's second highest elevation at 1800 meters (6500 ft).

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Following our hike at the very peak of Picos de las Nieves, we then must follow several curvy smaller highways through pine forests and volcanic rock formations interspersed with cacti and gradually, as traffic increases, we descend towards the North/Northeast and reach the community of VEGA DE SAN MATEO With a population of 7500 inhabitants. The local economy here is still predominantly based on agriculture and farming rather than on tourism -and San Mateo's famous Sunday market remains a focal point of attraction to locals and visitors alike. In fact, many locals from the island's capital Las Palmas make their weekly pilgrimage to San Mateo to buy their week's supplies of groceries here - mostly fresh fruit, vegetables and regional culinary specialties. The high quality of the produce here at reasonable prices makes for good value for money and thus continues to attract local vendors and buyers alike. As for tourists, many come from the island's South by way of organized bus excursions to witness the local flair or San Mateo with its authentic handicrafts and arts.

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Yet Vega de San Mateo has far more to offer than just its weekly Sunday market. Highly worthwhile and recommendable would be a visit to the local museum MUSEO ETNOLOGICO LA CANTONERA. Located inside a 300-year old farmhouse, the museum offers a genuine glimpse at Canarian life throughout history including farming equipment, ceramics and furniture items. Nearby we also find the local parish church with a statue of the community's patron saint St. Matthew from the 17th century. After visiting the market, museum and church, several worthwhile restaurants offer great food at reasonable prices including the local FELIZ DIA Chinese restaurant or the DULCERÍA San Mateo offering local pastries and specialty dishes. Also popular with both locals and visitors is the nearby Restaurante La Veguetilla about 2 blocks away from the buzzing activity of the Sunday market. As we return to Las Palmas at the end of our day in the mountains, we may bask in the assurance to have witnessed a very distinct slice of life on the Canarý islands far away from the sun and beach resorts of the island's over-developed coastline.