Holiday Magic in Beautiful Bratislava

More than 2 decades since the Fall of Communism, there are few places left behind what used to be the Iron Curtain that truly look and feel different. Particularly close to the former Western border, many cities have adopted the same blend of commercial infrastructure and cityscape as their counterparts in Western Europe. In order to feel some of the remnants of what life under communism used to be like, it is nowadays necessary to travel much further afield to the East, unless we opt for Bratislava, capital of Slovakia and a mere hour away from waltzing Vienna. A journey to Bratislava also has the added benefit of introducing us to a destination much less publicized and thus less crowded than, say, Vienna or Prague and allows us to visit the capital of one of Europe's youngest nations, the Republic of Slovakia, created by the "Velvet Divorce" of the Czech and Slovak Republics in 1993. A visit to Slovakia thus also confronts us with the notion of cultural identity at the crossroads of Europe. After all, Bratislava was predominantly German speaking and better known as PRESSBURG less than a century ago as well as the capital of HUNGARY under the name of POZSONY for over 300 years while Buda, nowadays Budapest, was occupied by Ottoman Turks. As a Treasure off the Beaten Track destination, Bratislava therefore offers many an unexpected surprise to visitors and a true feel for history and identities moving across ever-changing geopolitical landscapes.

In recent years, Bratislava Tourist Authorities have launched many a worthwhile effort to make their capital city known to visitors abroad. The Tourist Information in central Old Town is well equipped, organized and accomodating, and on-line marketing of Slovakia as a destination has fully embraced new technologies. Among our favorite travel twitter accounts to follow, VISIT BRATISLAVA (www.twitter.com/visitbratislava) ranks among the most active and informative in Central Europe. When during the holiday period the question arose as to the nicest christmas markets in Central Europe, VISIT BRATISLAva made a proud yet modest appeal for the city's main Christmas Market in Old Town, and we decided to follow up on it and fully agree. There is a tasteful balance between setting, decoration and architecture, crowds are moderate, prices considerably lower than in Western Europe, and the entire market experience conveys a rich local heritage rather than commercial spectacle. So no better time to visit Bratislava than during the weeks preceding Christmas, despite the cold and snowy weather in this part of Europe.

We embark on our visit to the Slovak Capital, however, driving up towards the HRAD, or Bratislava Castle, perched on a 300 ft hill of the Little Carpathian Mountains overlooking the Danube and the Bratislava neighborhood of Petrsalka. Even when other impressions of the Slovak Capital begin to fade, no visitor is bound to forget the panorama of communist-era apartment blocks of Petrsalka and the ufo-looking tower restaurant of the NOVY MOST (New Bridge) from 1969. Although a prototypical architectural example of socialist realism, the panorama's effect on visitors today is rather one of exoticism, modernism and strange urban beauty. The HRAD itself, originally a 13th-century Gothic fortress, then redone in Renaissance and Baroque style, illustrates the role of Bratislava as a defense bastion, particularly during the Ottaman Turkish invasion. Due to its strategic location and heavy fortification, the castle was never seized, but destroyed by fire in 1811 and not rebuilt until the 1950s. Recent restoration over the past decade has restored its former splendor. The castle complex now features the Slovak National Museum, State Treasury including the Crown Jewels along with authentic local handicrafts store. Just outside the main castle gates, we see the Slovak Parliament Building, which once was part of Bratislava University prior to Slovak independence in 1993.

Following our visit to Bratislava Hrad, we continue our ascent through a quiet residential neighborhood towards the most prominent communist-era monument, the SLAVIN war memorial at the 500-ft Slavin Hill, the city's highest panorama point. The monument was erected after WWII along with a war cementery to commemorate Russian soldiers that fell during the liberation of Slovakia from Nazi Rule in 1944 and 1945. Nowhere else in Central Europe can we find a soviet-era memorial of such scale, sobrity and ideological impact. Few visitors leave the site untouched by its tragic legacy of battle ground, cemetery and war memorial.

We round up our visit to Bratislava on a more up-beat and seasonal note by strolling around the city's magnificent Baroque-era Old Town. A mere 10 or 15 years ago, the inner city consisted of little more than dilapidated buildings and neglected monuments. Now restoration of Old Town Bratislava has been completed and despite its reduced size, it ranks among our favorite downtown districts anywhere in Central Europe. We approach the central market square from the North, from the historic Michael's gate featuring the zero-kilometer marker, the spot from which all distances to Bratislava are measured. We walk as far as the Gothic St. Martin's Cathedral, for over 300 years coronation church of Hungarian Kings and Queens, including Empress Maria Theresa, who frequently visited her favorite daughter Marie Christine here. During our stroll we continue along Hviezdoslav Square, which resembles more a pedestrian boulevard and culminates at the prestigious Neo-Renaissance SLOVAK NATIONAL THEATER and the adjacent Slovak Philharmonic Orchestra.

From here, it is only a 2-minute stroll to the central Market Square, site of Bratislava's annual Christmas Market. The backdrop of the Slovak Capital's Town Hall, the proximity to the magnificent Archiepiscopal Palace along with the Baroque facades of surrounding stately buildings make this among our favorite Christmas markets in Europe. Far less touristically exploited than similar markets in Vienna, Budapest or Prague, the atmosphere is relaxing, welcoming and genuine. Prices for food, drink and seasonal merchandise are considerably lower than elsewhere too. So no better way to end our visit than by savoring some local Slovak "Haluski" pasta and toasting with the famous hot mulled wine - Bratislava at Christmas Time rocks! Na zdravie!

Hunting Horns & Dvorak Tunes at Chateau Sychrov

Most visitors to the Czech Republic focus solely on the capital Prague, with far fewer foreigners exploring the rustic charms of the Czech country side. And there almost all visitors tend head to the UNESCO World Heritage Jewels of the Czech lands, including Cesky Krumlov or Kutna Hora. Very few visitors venture North towards the Czech-German border, although Northern Bohemia has plenty of unique attractions to offer, among them the cities of USTI NAd LABEM and LITOMERICE. Not far from the town of Liberec and the small community of Turnov, we find another hidden jewel of Northern Bohemia, the Chateau Sychrov, an enchanting fairy-tale castle almost entirely devoid of tourist traffic. Following four decades of isolation on the other side of the Iron Curtain, Northern Bohemia is only slowly opening up towards Tourism. For that reason, the area ranks as a worthwhile Treasure off the Beaten Track destination and thus deserves further mention. 

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The journey from Prague to Northern Bohemia takes just over an hour and leads us past the industrial town of Mlada Boleslav, home to the SKODA motor works, a Czech business success story since recent cooperation with German Volkswagen. About 30 minutes further North, the highway splits between Liberec and Turnov. Heading towards Turnov, the following exit indicates Sychrov and leads us over a small country highway about 1-2 miles further inland to the secluded premises of Chateau Sychrov itself, a gem of a hunting chateau in the middle of Northern Bohemia. 

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Originally built as a Baroque Palace on the site of a former Gothic fortress, Sychrov underwent significant Neo-Gothic adaptations by 1834 under the ROHAN family, who had escaped France following the 1789 Revolution and resettled here under the Habsburgs. Unlike many French artistocratic families, the ROHANS decided to decline the invitation to return to France under Napoleon's rule and instead made Sychrov their main residence. Here we find today's largest collection of French portraits outside France in the Rohan's gallery with an approximate total of 240 paintings. Particularly the interior of Chateau Sychrov ranks among the most magnificent of any palace in Bohemia due to the elaborate woodcarvings undertaken by Czech master carver PETR BUSEK. The entire interior of the chateau underwent reconstruction in Romantic Historicist style on the basis of PRUVOT's books on English Gothic furniture design. Among the most outstanding features are the Salon, Library and Dining Hall of the Rohans all redesigned under Petr Busek. In addition, the family's china  porcelain and fine cutlery collection attest to the Rohan's immaculate taste in interior design. For that reason, Chateau Sychrov is also regarded among the best examples in the Czech Republic of architectural harmony between the palace exterior, interior and surrounding park and garden areas.

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Among the most charming features of any visit to Chateau Sychrov are the hunting horns, which during the season chime every hour on the hour until dusk. In addition to a guided tour of the castle interior, several small yet outstanding businesses operate on the palace grounds, among them the official castle gift shop, a goldsmith, Bohemian Glass shop and miscellaneous handicrafts store. The goldsmith and glass shop in particular offer a moderate selection of locally handcrafted items at a fraction of the cost of similar items in Prague. The gardens and grounds of Sychrov, carefully redesigned in English Park style, equally invite visitors for extensive strolls and panorama visits. Lastly, regular concert events are held at Chateau Sychrov, many dedicated to ANTONIN DVORAK, who through his friendship to Rohan clerk ALOIS GOEBL frequently came for visits to Sychrov in the 19th century and found peace and inspiration here. A plaque dedicated to Dvorak may be found on the left side of the Chateau's main outside courtyard. The adjacent Chateau Sychrov Hotel & Restaurant was added recently and offers a quiet wellness oasis with 4star facilities in what many regard as among the least touristically exploited areas of the Czech Republic. For that reason, Chateau Sychrov may truly be regarded as a Treasure off the Beaten Track destination encouraging genuine quiet personal bonding with art, nature and architecture.

Local San Diego III: A Sunday out in Encinitas

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Nothing better on a sunny Sunday than to escape San Diego's urban area and head 20 miles on I-5 in the direction of Los Angeles to the charming communities of San Diego's North County. Once past the Mormon Temple near La Jolla and the exclusive community of Del Mar, we reach SOLANA BEACH and Encinitas - perfect getaways for a day trip away from the city. Both boast gorgeous coastline and pristine beach areas, but it is the alternative charm of Encinitas that makes it stand out in Greater San Diego, and no better time to witness this than on a Sunday, when the seaside resort's FARMERS' MARKET is in full swing.

Our first stop in Encinitas, however, is the San Diego Botanic Garden, formerly known as "QUAIL BOTANICAL GARDENS", a green sanctuary of over four miles of park and trails featuring more than 3300 varieties of plants including the nation's largest Bamboo collection. Admission is not cheap but helps to ensure survival of the park, nowaday's a non-profit charitable organization (see www.SDBGarden.org for details). The area is divided into various themes, many according to geographical area, among them a rainforest, several desert gardens as well as Australian, Canary Islands, South African and Mediterranean flora.

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In tune with the organization's mission to "inspire people of all ages to connect with plants and nature", the Park also includes several sections exclusively dedicated to children, such as the Hamilton and the Seeds of Wonder Children's Gardens. A stroll through San Diego Botanic Garden is a welcome break from the urban routine and an exciting introduction to diverse flora from all around the world. It is also a laudable example of water conservation and recycling, as the organization is acutely aware of Southern California's severe water shortage and as such has implemented various means to conserve water on their premises. Lastly, SD Botanic Garden is currently also a great venue to experience contemporary local art, as 24 sculptures from over 16 artists are featured throughout its territory as part of the organization's "SCUPLTURE IN THE GARDEN" campaign.

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Upon completion of our visit to the Botanical Garden, we stop briefly at the visitor center and plant shop, before heading for coffee & food at our favorite cafe in Encinitas: PANNIKIN coffee & tea, which is located inside a former train station and has since been carefully restored and remodeled to feature 2 levels of indoor cafe area along with an inviting outside patio. The food is fresh and locally made, and Pannikin remains a local favorite in Encinitas with locals and visitors alike and as such defying the franchising trend experienced elsewhere in the US.

From Pannikin we then head into central Encinitas to witness the true alternative nature of this seaside community. No better day than Sunday, when Encinitas holds its popular Farmers' Market. The entire main street is blocked for traffic over a stretch of 15 blocks or almost 2 miles. It is advisable to come early, as parking nearby is hard to find otherwise. Far from just a fruit and vegetable market, this special Sunday event sees many local artists and alternative vendors set up base to promote and sell their products and services. It is a perfect opportunity to buy hand-made jewelry or admire hand-crafted art work and locally manufactured clothes.

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Our Sunday outing would not be complete without witnessing the area's spectacular coastline and beaches. For that reason, we head back South towards central San Diego using the coastal highway - passing Encinitas' beach along with coastal areas of Solana Beach and Del Mar. Downtown Del Mar in particular invites us for another stop-over for food or drinks in a somewhat more exlusive coastal resort environment. The beaches in the area also invite for a visit and are generally far less crowded than further south in San Diego's urban coastal areas around Ocean Beach or Pacific Beach. Returning from our Sunday escapade to central San Diego, we bask in the assurance that an excursion to the North County continues to be a welcome treasure off the beaten track for both locals and visitors to Southern California.

Local San Diego II: Community Spirit & Neighborhood Charm

There are few cities in North America that take such pride in their local neighborhoods as San Diego. While most US cities consist of office space downtown and bland suburban sprawl, almost all neighborhoods in San Diego are alive, unique and offer dining, nightlife and recreational options that are based in the local economy rather than big corporate franchises. For that reason, a walk around the various parts of Southern California's favorite city offers a valuable glimpse of local San Diego and a true visitor experience away from the mainstream. Local authorities have also been promoting the various communities that make up greater San Diego by supporting local businesses and erecting neighborhood signs on main streets everywhere.

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By far the most up-and-coming area of San Diego is NORTH PARK, as it is still moderately affordable and thus attracts local businesses, artists and visionaries. Here on UNIVERSITY AVENUE and 30th Street we find numerous outstanding yet affordable eateries, such as the famous RANCHO Mexican Restaurant on 30th Street. Many local cafes also beckon for visitors, including the popular CLAIRE DE LUNE cafe on University Ave. Strolling through North Park in the evening reveals the true magic of this booming San Diego community, with Art Galleries offering Painting Classes, Dance Academies featuring ballroom dancing as well as a plethora of other recreational and artistic activities for locals to pursue.

Nearby HILLCREST has always been traditionally the alternative part of town, but has undergone urban renewal in recent years. Rents went up and many family businesses left, leaving the once booming alternative area around University & 5th Avenue in the hands of developers for both business and residential property. So while high-end condominiums and insurance buildings are becoming more frequent, some long-time favorite lower-end coffee & dining venues still attract visitors. They include FILTER coffeeshop as well as URBAN GRIND on Park Boulevard, BREAD AND CIE on University & 4th as a welcome alternative to corporate PANERA, ICHIBANS on University Avenue for Japanese Food, as well as our Vietnamese favorite Pho 5th Avenue in the very heart of Hillcrest. Here we also find the highest concentration of alternative venues in San Diego, including Rich's nightclub, and other popular venues such as FLICKS, MOE's and the newly developed Club EDEN.

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North of Hillcrest and North Park we find yet another booming and attractive neighborhood, UNIVERSITY HEIGHTS with a huge community sign on Park Boulevard and great nightlife venues such as alternative BOURBON STREET and the cozy alternative MYSTIC MOCHA, among our favorite breakfast venues in town. Considerably less developed and more affordable than nearby Hillcrest, many alternative businesses and handcraft shops relocated here to UH when rents became too high elsewhere. TWIGGS cafe and bakery on Park Boulevard ranks among another one of our favorites here.

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Further afield the seaside communities of PACIFIC BEACH and OCEAN BEACH beckon with attractive boardwalks and beach areas. While Ocean beach has become a trendy and rather bohemian neighborhood in recent years featuring many cafes, local eateries and boutiques, Pacific Beach still thrives mostly on beach visitors with sun worshipers, skateboarders and beachball junkies frequenting the area along its attractive boardwalk and beach itself. Architecturally, Pacific Beach is also slightly more built up and less homogenous than its counterpart further south, due in part to PB's unique geographical location including a promontory Northwest of Sea World and Downtown San Diego separated by SAIL Bay and FIESTA Bay. Ocean Beach by contrast is less developed featuring more low-level housing and an overall more residential environment. Both feature popular Piers with great views of the beaches and surfers nearby. In addition, OB's pier boasts an attractive cafe & restaurant at its tip, a perfect venue for brunch on a sunny Sunday morning.

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Finally there is always Downtown San Diego - yet even here we find true community spirit in the form of the historic GASLAMP QUARTER. Leaving behind modern & busy HORTON PLAZA mall, we pass numerous restored historic buildings along MARKET STREET such as the BALBOA & READING theaters or the PENN HOTEL as well as neatly developed inner city residential properties. Here near the Convention Center and the famous San Diego trolley to San Ysidro at the Mexican border, some of the best city redevelopment was carried out on HARBOR DRIVE with an eye on urban renewal and reviving downtown. Countless nightlife and dining options beckon here in the Gaslamp Quarter among them the HARD ROCK Cafe San Diego as well as CROCE's Restaurant named after late singer JIM CROCE. The Gaslamp Quarter and central San Diego are thus the place of choice for weekend entertainment for locals and visitors alike.